Anyone with an interest in creating things, especially in wood, should find something they enjoy here
Some of the techniques I will share with you are established, others I have developed myself and these may be unique. Whether they are the best ways to do things - that's up to you to decide!
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Fantastic tools - I’ve had my plumbers grips since becoming an apprentice Gasfitter in 1969 - I am 70 years old and my grips are still going strong 👍👍👍
@@mitchwoodwork so I have an idea of making a phantom of the Opera lair based secret room and with a stage that doesn't take much of the room but can still be moved around on.
A new bottom rail just magically appears? I's great to show that the bottom rail is scrap and needs to be replaced, but it seems like you've completely skipped the most important part of showing how to make, and/or where to buy a replacement bottom rail?
It would have been nice to include making the new one, but there were three guys working on the windows and just me filming, so I couldn't get everything unless I had delayed them a lot. Making the rail really is just copying the profile of the existing and preparing the joints as they were before, so relatively simple for anyone who can accomplish the rest of the repairs.
Yes there is. You can get a grooving bit in different sizes that is often bearing guided. I can't remember how I cut these ones., but probably on a table saw with a rip blade and a homemade tenoning jig to hold the pieces vertical.
He's has his wedges backwards. You can see the force of cutting pushing the board in the direction of the thin end of the wedge, i.e. loosening the clamping action. Turning the wedge around would cause the cutting force to bear toward the thick end of the wedge, tightening the clamping action. He consistently points the wedge the wrong way on both the long and short boards.
When taking pulleys out that are really stuck, I have had great luck with sticking a solid screwdriver (the kind the bits dont change on), push it into the bottom opening below the pully, and pull down hard. Havn't had one yet that doesn't give in using this method.
A level or long straight edge is very useful in gauging wind, but a pair of winding sticks magnifies the wind and allows it to be gauged at different points along a board with greater accuracy. Ultimately it depends on the accuracy you require as to whether you use winding sticks.
That joint has been used in boat building for quite a while. It is particularly used to join deck beams to beam shelves. The two pieces of wood being at roughly 90º to each other ,depending on where in the hull of course. Nicely done.
Hello, thanx for your videos ! My dad wants to build one for me but does not have the necesary tools... Could I have the plans please ? Thank you very much
It's an awful long time ago but I seem to recall linseed oil based paint. Only a day or so ago there was an interesting comment on one of the seven videos about how since the lead in linseed oil paints had been replaced with zinc that they were now more prone to mould, and there was a better option. Maybe worth you checking that out.
I'm not sure about linseed paints these days without the lead content which has been replaced with zinc as a mould algae protector its now very prone to mould growth and have stopped using it now the best option nowadays is owatrol oil then on with owatrol deco its the system that last without mould algae growth
Very helpful tutorial! On the last part with the jig to ride your plane on, maybe add a little fence on the 45 degree slope so that it is not a guess work wether the plane will cut into the jig or not
Chatter I find is normally down to a poor fitted frog or blade assembly, and could account for tearout. You might also try reducing the depth of cut. Ultimately some wood is so contrary that it will defy most attempts.
@@mitchwoodwork I have no Idea what happened sir I just resharpened my blade and made that back bevel a little bit smoother as well as adjusting my depth of cut it works like a charm on my beautiful interlocking grain walnut thank you sooooo much
I'd say the 45 isn't quite as good as the others, but very capable. Because the 45 was designed to do so many different functions, each one is slightly compromised.
Hello from Calit. I know it's been several years since you made your shoulder plane. Do you have a template for the body ? I just saw your video and love your work. Take care !
Great vid for this kind of board. Just curious if that v groove is cut to be the same depth as the gap between the edge of the plane sole and the blade or not.
Folks resist temptation and do not, I repeat do not “pick up” the back of the plane blade in order to put a small “microbevel” as he called it on your nice flat blade backside. It can be tempting but don’t do it you’ll regret it. If sharper is the drive to totally muck up your flat back of the blade then try this… as it sharpens reduce the pressure your using. Steady but progressively keep backing off on the force you use. Also steadily increase the frequency you flip sides until ultimately every single stroke you flip
Man go get some 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit sandpaper and toss that wood scrap in the trash. Strop with leather and if you wanna go crazy hone with sapphire stones
That is the oldest young man I’ve ever seen. Just funnin with ya governor.. Being fully transparent I must reveal that I was about to give you a hard time on what was likely just a mix-up of nomenclature in the video. Then…. you shut me up with two words.. counter clockwise are the words. I have a petty pet peeve with how Britts will pronounce, sometimes totally changing English words for various more modern terms. Maybe it’s no big deal and it’s me with the problem?(that’s for sure). Digression sequence stop initiated. Thank you for not saying “Anti-clockwise”
That was beautiful to watch. I am hoping to give this a try. I am definitely an amateur, and i'm sure my first 5 will not be up to scratch, but this gives me hope that its possible.