You could try using a standard EFI fuel pressure regulator setup, the type that has a pressure regulator in the return line back to the fuel tank, pump can run at full speed all the time, the regulator will hold the pressure to a set pressure all the time on the injector side irrespective of injector flow and and dump the rest back to the tank, use the PWM to control the injector Drag racing do it different because 11000 hp nitro fuel requirements cant really be done with the standard way with standard parts, you could use a standard injector sized for a 500ish cc engine
Boa noite amigo curto muito seu canal ja faz um 5 ano preciso de uma opinião sua ja vi vídeos de voce dando banho de nikasil e agora recentemente emcamisado cilindro qual voce acha que fica melhor nikasil ou ferro fundido ? pois tenho uma cr125 2t 1999 vou ter que emcamisar ou dar um jeito para voltar a rodar
When you're cranking on this motor with dry charge are you flooding the cylinder with oil first? Wondering about dryish wear and heating. Fuel is the primary source of cooling...
Why do you need the Arduino? Since your ECU uses a programmable map to translate the TPS to a PWM output, wouldn't it be easier to directly feed the PWM Signal as an input for a Brushless motor controller?
Good day to you. You might want to look at the use of quinky tubes to take care of your pump pulse. We used this principle on the P-3 Orion aircraft hydraulic system. It involves the use of teeing off 2 unequal lengths of line from the pump output, then teeing them back into the supply line. They theory is that the 2 unequal discharge line lengths cancels the pulse of the pump stroke. It operates much the same way as an accumulator but has the added feature of no moving parts or supply capacity that happens with an accumulator. The length of each line just needs to be 1/2 of each other. for example make 1 line 4 inches long the other 2 inches long. The other thing we did was route this line through the fuel tank and it acted as cooling radiator to cool the hyd fluid.
As a mechanic of 40 years, learning the basics of all mechanical and electrical components is KEY. Doesn't matter What it is it has the same components in different configurations. Trouble shooting is a BREEZE!!
I'm glad my comment on DSG pumps helped. Is there any safety rules around pressurising the fuel tank I presume there is as what I'm thinking isn't complicated and should be very reliable yet I've never seen anyone doing it. My idea is to keep the fuel tank at a constant pressure with a pre charged air tank and a regulator use a very large fuel line to make sure it will easily keep up when fully open and then it should just be a case of figuring out the best way to deliver it into the engine.
I dont know the properties of Nitro Methanol but with an ‘unseperated’ accumulator where the gas (air) is in contact with the liquid, you might find that your trapped air dissolves in the NM over time and you lose some of the damping effect.
Alex, if you use a non-return valve between the fuel line and your CO2-bottle accumulator, a pressure spike entering the accumulator will be caught there and the pressure in the accumulator will increase. Then the accumulator will only be able to absorb pressure spikes with an even higher pressure, increasing the accumulator pressure more and more. Just leave out the on-return valve and let the accumulator do its thing.
On your breadboard, having wires loop up like that makes them sensitive to noise. Keep them as close to the breadboard as possible, and away from each other.
Note for fuel pump: Add a gear reduction from the motor to the pump. The reason for pulses are most likely from the uneven load from the pump. If the motor is at a speed where it is more efficient, there will be less pulses due to a bigger load.
Hi Alex. Just made a small donation to cover the cost of a 250ml eye wash bottle. My gift to you to try and ensure you keep your sight and can continue your quest and our entertainment! Love the current path. Wayne from Oz.
I was going to say also add a pressure relief back to tank at 110%ish of expected max pressure, especially if you add a gas accumulator. I guess I don't need to explain why😮😅
An idea for if this method of fuel injection doesn't work. Have you thought of using a traditional efi fuel pump and making / modifying a fuel pressure regulator so that you can electronically adjust the fuel pressure. You could do this by attaching a stepper/servo to the pressure regulation screw.
This is rapidly getting too complex and you have too many variables, un-tested elements, and poorly tested elements. Perhaps you should back out of this potentially blind alley and brainstorm a few alternatives that might compare better (e.g. plenum and regulator, conventional port injection, mechanical injection, etc.) I know each of these has their problems but they also have solutions that involve fewer elements and therefore fewer potential failures.
Can you not fit/make a small accumulator on the discharge side of the fuel pump to iron out the pulses at low speed. Just need a vessel with a fuel resistant diaphram
The accumulator is a great idea. My wife designed high-pressure/high-volume hydraulic pumps (35gpm/3,500psi) for air-control-surface actuators on airplanes. I think she used an accumulator to dampen the ripple in the output of a nine-piston engine driven pump.
Caterpillar uses pwm throttle position sensors. The use a range of 10 percent to 90 percent. 10 being idle and 90 wide open The say less then 10 or more than 90 Is too close to a flat line.
Every time I see you playing with that pump inches from your face I just think "He desperately needs a face shield, something is going to pop." How does the fuel taste?
I hope that you have a fire extinguisher or 2 close at hand and also maybe an eye wash station. Seeing that schnaps make a bid for freedom was a bit scary and could easily have gotten messy.
