50cc Two Stroke, 35mm Carb, Nitro - Give me the record! 

Real og's remember the sudden cutoff.

I've been building two strokes since 1991 for a living. A quick tip for truing a crank is just hit the wheel on the low side that you're indicating. Also place the indicator as far out as possible ( way out by the threads ). Lastly I ship engines all over the world packed in coolers . The double wall construction with foam in-between really protects them from damage .

We would like to wish you all the best in your Bonneville attempt. Just by getting there you will do what most only talk about. Two words of advice : 1 - Start richer then you ever thought, you have all week to take fuel out of her. 2 - Back your own ideas/thoughts, do not listen to self proclaiming gurus, there will be many. Enjoy one of the coolest places in the world. Best wishes JP Afflick & Team AAA Racing.

You are the reason my Puch Monza is now on 12hp on the rear wheel 😊

watching that chain whip around with you leaning over it, no cover gives me the creeps.

If you put backinggas in the pipe the quality of the weld will be alot better and welding wil get easier becaus it has a little extra Cooling effect

FYI, for the Tillotson pumper carb they make remote jet adjuster cables so you can adjust the jetting from a more convenient location like maybe up on the handlebars. Possibly especially helpful on the super long pulls, could richen the high jet later in the run.

I used to teach this, hit it once then check, if you didn't hit it hard enough, easy to smack a bit harder. If it's really 'loose' either TIG the crank-pin or replace crank. Using a power impact gun is also enough to twist crank, they are always over 250 ft/lbs and usually 400ft/lbs (or more) Even when 'dialed down' to 50~80 ft/lbs, the shock load is momentarily higher by a significant amount. I know your not using one but Mikuni listed flow tests in the late 1960's. A VM32 WILL support up to 50 bhp (and they were only on two strokes for a long time) It's probably right on the limit of flow though?

I'm not keen on how easily that crank gets knocked about we shall see 👍

I'm not convinced by how easily that crank moves around, a little vibration and it's going to be off before you can blink again.

New crank, that one will never stay in place if it moves that easy. Too at much risk.

You are my man! You brought to my mind what was my dream as a child. Was a Scooter Tuner but due to the lack of money and the divorce i startet a career as a hyperactive aggressive child, turned into a drugfilled DJ with lots of Talents but no consistency. 10 years ago i found my now wife, and 2 years ago we finally said OK we want a Family and therefore i need a apprentceship for a Job that i will Love (im from Germany). I saw your Videos and i instantly knew it... Now im becoming an Industrial mechanic and about to build my own lathe in my nice little Workshop that i build over the Last few years. BEST DECISION EVER! And in a few years you will get a competitor :)

Babe wake up 2strokestuffing uploaded.

There we go! I wondered what happened to the original upload. Edit: You leaning over that chain while revving that engine had me anxious af. 😅

Your should put a velocity stack on your carb. It will straighten out the air flow and it will make your mixture more consistent. Additionally if you could add mass to the carb it would probably foam less. That is just a theory.

Years ago I used to run 2t open carts on dirt ovals.i ran an Italian motor made by dap,165cc's,with a tilotson pumper carb on nitro methanol with great success!! It was also rotary valve.i would get about 3 races out of the rotor valve itself, and it would start to stress crack.

When is this run going to take place? I'm getting old and hope it will be during my lifetime.

I haven't seen the end of the story yet so I could be assessing a non-problem, however We fought a situation on the build of my 1965 AC Cobra MKIII (Ford's 427 aluminum racing engine) and the Magnafuel fuel pump. All of these things were generating significant heat transfer to the fuel, so much so that we could only use 10 gallons of a 20 gallon fuel supply before the gas overheated and vapor-locked the system. A company called Derale fabricated a triple pass (with two 6" fans) fuel chiller for us. I have now intentionally run the fuel tank down to .7 of a gallon with no adverse effect. My point is, I'm presuming there's a lot of heat in your system and this may be worth checking out as a fuel bubbling issue.

We would always weld the crank on banshee engines after we trued them

I was wondering why last video ended so abruptly.

Love how you dialed the crank in so tight and then I think of my Harley and that the factory if it measured within .007in they would be like... good enough put her in! Lol, may have taken you some time, but in your bike .007in would be catastrophic. Love to see the patience and care you put into your project! Can't wait to see the end result!

boy got a lot of trust in that chain i dont my tendies to be that close to chopping and smashing

Love all you work it’s so out of this world.

I've never seen a crank that's variable pitch lol The pipe turned out really good though.

I swear you are the mad scientist of tuning 2 strokes, I'm for sure gonna try one when I get the chance.

This is the most artistic thumbnail I've seen

Your welding looks like it should be for a home shop. Over time it’ll look better, but it’s already functional and will work fine

Problem with tuning-up is that it is really hard to find sweet spot. Best method I found was tuning-down, turning fuel screw to almost zero, & turn air screw to bare minimum, to have it barely-idle/shutting-off. (This is tuning spot for air/idle screw) (Wait a few moments for carb to settle) Now turn fuel screw open to the point where- it is barely idling but not shutting off. (Let it settle for a few minutes) And now find sweet spot of fuel screw, between lean and rich. (Point where engine is between on-load vs stress free, it will give perfect vaccum, ratio, and timing alignment) After setting fuel screw, you can adjust air/idle up or down.

Its really incredible what you are able to get out of those little engines. I used to help my cousin and his daughter she raced dirt shifter carts and the rules was strict but with alot of thinking and alot of trail and error those things was scary fast. Everyone would look at the price of stuff and say well thats not to costly to get into and id always laugh no not really unless you want to win then be ready to dump a ton of money and time into it. She now races legend's dirt cars and those are a whole nother animal lol. Looking foreword to seeing you get the record all that work will pay off just gotta keep digging at it and wanting it.

That crank moves WAY TOO easily.

What you achieve with the tools you have is amazing!

back in the day we would hammer and dollie work the pipe welds. used a small trailer hitch ball as the dollie for the inside welds.

Have you considered fabricating exhaust templates to use with the Hydraforce water pumping system?

I truly did not mind watching this two times. Absolutely excellent video!

Dang, that's gonna be one HELLVHA chainsaw when you're done!!

The chain not being guarded is a bit of a worry 😮

Its been a hell of a ride, love all the hwideos.

Use a bolt with wing nut on the brake lever to control it. should be more precise then by finger

Why does this looks like I'm watching a modern version of The Pinch Cliffe Grand Prix? Godt jobba, og lykke til !

Such a cliffhanger! I was halfway through watching when it cut off and the video disappeared from your channel, Ah the good old days. I'm going to watch it all again cause it's cool

a little tig weld, like in TPR crankshafts can prevent the crank from moving and it's still somehow reversible! I will never stop asking to hear that thing with a proper silencer, maybe a Yasuni one which sounds great, not only better sound but with less noise from the exhaust side you can hear better other problems

I wouldn't trust that crank!

great work fill the pipe up with argon gas while ya weld it , you will get gas coverage inside the pipe / use slip joint with two springs to hold it in then will not bust or come loose just like go kart racers fix there pipes love your work !

I live in Seattle area but planning a trip down to see Moped Dick during speedweek! Been following this channel for years..be great to see a record breaking run!

use .025 mig wire as filler for this thin tig welding work, close any gaps with hammering, open overlaps by hammering over the edge of the end of the mandrel

Hey up Alex nice to see your enthusiasm, good luck mate

Probably good to print some 3D inserts for packaging to cover any important sealing surfaces and around the crank etc.

Favorite channel, thanks 👍

USPS is THE WORST. I had parts shipped DHL to the US from germany. Updates say "released from customs to USPS". Magically dissapeared. USPS says i need to contact DHL. All the morons at USPS do t even know where or how thier international tranfer even works. I did my reaserach and after days of bs i was explaining to them how the flow progresses. Emd of the day a 6x12 box that weighs like 10#+ vanished without a trace and i havd to wait weeks for another shipment , which were vital item for my lift in my shop. So irritating.

I saw some interesting reed valves used in pulse jets that might be interesting to check out.

Some of the best industrial noises in the tube 😅

Also another top tips for getting high end power.. longer Velocity stack infront of the carb.. Especially the dual-stack design...that would getting into pipe-powerband and then really pushing air at high speed for high rev range

Get an hydraulic pump and use for a brake. Should be ok on a low power engine.

If you can bend a crank too much from just banging it a few times I wonder what it will do when its spinning at nearly 20k RPM. edit: ah missed the part where it was press fit so its probably not bending anything. Hopefully that can be tightened up though.

WIth you're hammer action You must have been woodpecker in a previous life😅

On Harleys they weld the crank to the pin so it stays true and dosent bend or twist

hey thanks. Was wondering about that. yesterdays first upload left me a bit confused.

NICE!!! It is so angry sounding!!! I Dig it!!!

A ground, concentric cylinder, with a gap for the con rod would be the best possible way to ensure crank alignment.

Arm Slicer 9000 Dyno today

Super awesome, you got this!

It's amazing how much you can move the crank balance around with a few taps. Makes me wonder what happens dynamically when it's running and seeing high forces or when certain brutes on RU-vid that are trying to make a viral video throw the parts around their bench while filming. It seems too fragile.

The float bowl vent must point forward in the carb bell to work with the carb pointing forward. And, lots of salt will enter. 😮

Give the conrod-crank pin 2tacks of tig weld after truing them... This saves alot of time chasing the wobbly crank with slight mistake (drop/overload/got hit etc etc) And since its just small tack-weld, can be easily grind-off with its time to replace the conrod

Keep waiting for the chain to let go 😅 whilst you casually hold your neck out waiting to test your mortality

Why are you not welding the crank?

Could the crank have got twisted when the engine seized in Colorado? Seems like the crank pin doesn't have a tight enough press fit.

The fuel may be hitting the back of the elbow and falling out of suspension when running the speedway carb. That ends up filling the engine with a lot of raw fuel., mount the speedway carb like the float bowl carbs and add an elbow on the inlet side of the carb. My two cents. Good luck!

On the TIG welding, you were using a really thick filler rod. Try a lighter gage filler rod. I was taught that the filler rod shouldn't be any thicker than the gap you are filling.

Get EFI. Carbs aren't as tunable, and you should know it. It'd also allow separate oil and fuel injection. 2-stroke snowmobile tuners use EFI and make turbos and other boost work thanks to that.

Hi. If you are makeing a lot of those pipes, I think you should have a MIG. It is a way more easy, and faster to weld this kind of metal sheets. And I mean a lot faster and a lot easyer.

Perhaps purging the inside of the pipe while welding will improve your weld quality?

My step-brother was the fastest man alive on go karts in the 60s up till about 70 when he had a bad wreck but he ran Mac10s two of them and they were putting out some horsepower

You can also water pressure form your pipes

sounds to me the crank is done cause it should be holding shape in dimension regardless of how u hit it

Hi my friend! Sometimes you find the way… sometimes you struggle with the obvious.

Wow that fuel went fast in the small amount of time it ran!

Damn, I thought you were doing a Rob Dahm bit :P So happy to see the full vid this morning :) G'day from Australia!

Try making an airbox for the intake since you have a pipe that works.

Äntligen! 😁

That crank moves much too easily, I would be reluctant to use it.

I’m not sure what sort of rpm you want but maybe some resonance being creates with the magneto turning so fast. Might be good to go efi. Be great for the salt flats you have a maf and a lot more control over the whole engine running. I’ve made a 555 timer for a coil and got some really nice sparks at a frequency the coil loved. Hope this helps too.

Fuel failing to vaporise might be from having too large a carburettor. Higher intake velocity with a smaller diameter carb may help.

Fine tuning the jetting with a carburetor is best done with the seat of the pants

I wonder if you could use the supercharger as a vacuum on 2 stroke. Like after the engine and have the vacuum pull the mixture in to motor vs push..

I also have concerns about your crank turning out of alignment. Especially with your circular saw starter. Lots of torque input when it’s stationary. Shame you can’t ramp up the speed gradually. Keep the faith and you’ll achieve your goal. Your dedication to your project is inspiring.

In my experience, trying one change and a thorough test via on machine road test, has proved to be the best to zero in on performance.

Oh, God. Nausea cam is back. If you're going to insist on focus shift can you at least make sure something is in focus brother.

I'm surprised you didn't go with the tilly or mikuni carb you used at the end sooner to prevent foaming. I put a big double pumper tilly on my racing chainsaw, and man, what a difference. Anyways, keep up the great content.

Kanalen med mest ursäkter och sällan händer det någonting alls men när det händer saker då händer det

With how easy this crank is moving around I’m sure it is going to untrue itself at 15000rpm. But hopefully it will last a run or two 😁

That chain really is an arm taker offer...

15:00 You were hitting it too hard. Still, glad you finally got it relocated.

Drill hole in crank case add treaded valve to drain flooded engine good video

Do the bores go egg-shaped because you dont hone/bore them out without using a torque plate to simplate the head ?( squish plate ?) Being bolted to the case? Id imagine an engine casing would distort when the squish plate is bolted on and torqued to spec. (Much like car engines do) Food for thought

Thank you!

At 34:27, your comment about "no doubt getting it running good on gas"... If you take a bog standard production bike and decide to run methanol and or nitromethane, what would you do to make that work?. Maybe apply that logic to making this one work the same way. I remember way back in the early 70's, I have a "250 2 stroke", and I used to put one litre per tank of nitromethane... NO other mods to anything...used to go like a rocket, but a lot hotter.... a backyard designed ram air scoop for the head worked wonders for the heating issue... only while moving at speed tho. Love your videos, a real learning journey for me. Thank You!

Add simethicone anti foaming agent to the fuel.

in case you missed the other 100 comments about it, build a better/stiffer/harder crankshaft. 😂

What is upside-down for a 2 stroke engine really?