Nice little job for once though I think I would have repaired the holes in the floor, having already seen your welding skills I know fixing the holes is well within your skill level.
The way to tighten the steering play is to tighten the little center tie rod arm with the Dubble tie rod connection "coming out of the steering gear box". There is a 1" castle nut with a cotter pin and a 5/8s tie rod bolt. loosen the 5/8s jam bolt and tighten the 1" castle nut till the steering tightness is achieved. the tighten up the 5/8s jamb bolt. I just fixed mine that was bad.
I'll bet the exhaust fumes riding behind kerosene exhaust was more Carcinogenic than gasoline . Health hazards weren't a concern in the 30's and 40's. How many farmers born in the teens and twenties died as a result of some form of cancer?
The Owner's Manual states a few less horsepower rating with the distillate. It must've been a challenge to build enough engine temp for the change over in winter
Not bad but some of your valve face are way to wide and are too high up in valve face as it should be small band in the middle of the valve face, You're supposed to cut the valve with a 30 degree and a 60 degree and final 45 degree the set of valve width which should be in the middle of the valve face about one third of the width of the whole face.
My guess is that tank may have regular motor oil sludge at the bottom. My Great Grandfather used to mix his kerosene with used filtered motor oil, also a he would mix his gasoline and filtered used motor oil and run it in the main tank, also at times diesel fuel ,(regular gas in small tank). He said the John Dear engine would run on anything lol. His only rule was you start it with gasoline, get the engine HOT then switch to front tank and before you shut it down switch it back to gas.
You don’t have to take the tank bolts off just the two bolts on top of the governor housing. Then you take the tank bolts out to remove tank. It’s in the book.
Geez, that tank is a mess. That being said, if you have to repair it, I'm positive you'll figure something out, and get it done. The skills you've shown you get it done somehow. I'm confident in that. I'm rootin fer ya.
I have john deere a 1951. Went I was fixing my up. I had to fix my gas tank because it han a rust hole in it . I took my gas tank to have it fixed. They flushed the tank with some acid and braze the rust hole. Shut and Coate the tank. So you like farm and home to get the acid. If you know how to braze with torch. To fix the rust hole .The coating is to protect the gas tank from resting. Coating goes inside the gas tank. They said not run ethanol fuel because it will eat the Coating.
The tank on my 8N was like that. May I suggest, go to Lowes, Home Depot, local hardware store, etc. and look in the paint department where they sell paint thinnner and look for a product called Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It may be labled as MEK or MEK substitute. Through the mircale of science, it will disolve all of that goop and any varnish in the tank. Fill the tank with a suitable amount to cover the bottom well, maybe an inch or two of the MEK. Let it sit, and not in direct sunlight. After a few hours, roll the tank around and all that goop will start to come loose and come out in chunks. Repeat as necessary and once you are satisfied, rinse with water well and dry out the tank. Hope it helps. 🙂
Step 1: Buy 5 gallons of purple power degreaser from Walmart Step 2: Plug sediment bowl hole, pour purple power in tank. Let set for a couple of days. Step 3: Dump tank into two empty buckets. Step 4: Take to car wash, wash with hot soapy water until tank is very hot to the touch and rinse. Step 5: If the tank is still dirty - repeat steps 2 - 4. Step 6: When tank is clean, replace rusty metal with new metal. Step 7: Seal with red coat, make sure you etch inside of tank with muriatic acid before red coat. NOTE: Purple power can be strained and put back in containers for reuse. Over and over again.
FYI I just looked on eBay and saw a tank for a jd 46 b. Looks the same it may be a solution for you. Davidson tractor parts out of Indiana is the seller
My big tank on my 39B is still in good shape, never looked at my small tank, can"t believe can not find a tank, you can get pretty much anything else for these B s, once you start cleaning it ?
You don't think that someone tried to seal the tank and just didn't get the sealing material sloshed and distributed enough to where it settled to the bottom of the tank?
I'm amazed by your diagnostic mind. I give you credit, I probably would've had a fit realizing I split it in the wrong place. Nothing ever goes as easy as I plan them. But I eventually calm down and get after it. I usually finish up just as satisfied. Ready for the next vid. I'm rootin fer ya!
As ever the deeper you dive in the bigger the can of worms become!! Having seen your skill level on your other projects I know that your capable of doing this and that the biggest hurdle is the logistic of the size of the parts and moving them about, you may need to ask for a bit of help in putting it all back once you’ve replaced the seals. Good luck with it all and I look forward to following the progress bit by bit.
Great content. It was riveting and one bolt ing to watch. Lol. This is valuable stuff if I ever find my own. Thanks for teaching all this. Keep em comin. I'm rootin fer ya!
These "small jobs, little things" are actually a big deal. Day in day out these are the things you use and the stuff that should work. Broken or dilapidated features like a door mechanism take some of the fun out of having and driving it. It's especially nice to fix something that was irritating. Cool that you figured it out.
Thank you for the very in depth walk through, i have a 1955 with the same but different problem, the forked piece that latches into the door frame swings but doesnt lock into position. I think it's a worn out Cam similar to your problem. Thanks!
