Im upgrading in IC size on my zd30 DI because my stock IC is leaking. Should I do just the size upgrade or should I do size upgrade with a fan? I ask because I'm curious if the fan has significant benefits
I NEED HELP,,, I HAVE A NISSAN TERRANO ZD30 DDTI ENGINE, THE TURBO IS FINE BUT WHEN I ACELERATE THE CAR THE RPM DOES NOT GO UNDER 2500rpm .... Not having power, some say might be the computer other say might be the injector pump.
Hay mate ive just done this to a 1kd and it works great but it keeps throwing a P0400 code which is egr flow malfunction, i can clear it but im assuming its ok because it might just reading the flaps not closing, but is still worrying, the egr is clean and im about to put a 7mm blank plate in would this solve the code problem or make it worse? Cheers for the video mate!
Interesting video, are you located at Beerwah? I've got a 96 GQ 2.8,l turbo diesel. Do you have any videos up in the boost I want these. I believe from what the old owner who owned master of its life said nothing's been done to it. Original turbo, injectors. Cheers Graham
what’s ur thoughts on boost actuators over vacuum? the brand im looking at has a 16psi and a 20psi and he was saying the 20 will be fine pre tune unless im towing something heavy. 2008 zd30 CRD only has 3” straight pipe exhaust. will have snorkel, boost and egt gauges and intercooler fan soon
Hey mate. Awesome video. Bit further down the line now but just curious wether putting a Tillich valve in and running 18-20psi needs a tune or wether the map sensor can work out the fuel itself? Not in a rush for a response but many thanks when you see this
The nissan ZD30 CRD workshop manual says that the Swirl Control valve is supposed to be closed below 2600rpm if the water temp is between 22-100deg. Basically what your video showed is not a broken valve but one working exactly as intended. To test malfunction, you would need to test with rpm over 2600 (I.e. see of its closed when its supposed to open).
Also, if the valve was broken and always closed, the biggest impact would be felt at higher rpm when the max airflow is trying to get through. ZD30 CRD will see about 18g/s (Mass Air Flow) at idle and about 150g/s at max RPM. If the valve was fully closed then the power and torque would be most affected at higher RPM. Your dyno results however show the higher RPM figures are unchanged. I suspect this is because the swirl valve closed as intended when the RPM increased. All was Woking as designed.
The higher torque in your dyno run is no doubt due to the higher boost. We need to ask, why is the boost higher? When the swirl valve is closed, it will hold back more pressure. The MAP (boost) sensor is in the intercooler well before the swirl valve so must see higher boost pressure when the valve is operating (the cylinder will obviously see lower pressure, but this isn't where your sensor/monitoring point is). The fact that your 2nd dyno run shows higher boost at the intercooler says that something else has significantly changed between runs to increase boost. This has resulted in the higher torque. You'll need more/cleaner runs to conclude if the swirl valve actually increase or decreases the torque.
Theory and reality are often two different things. In theory it’s supposed to help increase air speed and generate swirl in the chamber to better mix fuel at low rpm. And maybe that’s the case, how ever we see on patrols, Hilux’, Dmax’s, both power and torque increase virtually everywhere across the rev range at when the system is disabled. Maybe the system operates better at partial throttle, but then I’d expect a negative effect on fuel economy. And if that was the case, I’d have people kicking my door down about loosing them mileage from a tank. All I can comment on, is what we see on the dyno. And the feedback people have given us when doing it themselves at home.
I appreciate theory and reality offen differ, but that doesn't change the fact that the video offers a test and concludes the valve is broken when its operation exactly as Nissan designed it. Also glosses over the fact that the 2nd dyno run (the one with better torque) is run at higher boost which perfectly explains the higher torque. There is no possible way that closing the swirl valve would create higher boost at the MAP sensor (which is up stream of the valve). Clearly there is another factor at play. As others have suggested multiple runs with ONLY this change are needed. I agree that customers would be kicking your door down if it increased fuel usage. And I doubt it would. Given its only closed at low rpm/MAF flow you might be increasing air flow loss by 0.05psi whish would be indistinguishable in any mileage or dyno calcs.
Maybe on the highway but off-road it seems to do all right. My son spent all day pulling his mates out of the mud in the Glass house mountains. Brought the old girl home with mud up to the windows.
Just discovered your channel, just had an over heating issue yesterday 2016 bt50 only done 36k was not driven for years I've had it for a year no prob Turbo over heating was wondering if bigger intercooler would do the trick, Cheers Mate
That would make one hell of a wire cutter too lol. Thats a good ass idea, especially after the pivot gets rusty, or when i found a brand new paid of crescent snips but were laying in tall wet grass and it took 1/2 can wd40 and forever to get them smooth enough to use one handed
Good evening, I have a question, would this also be possible with a ZD30 direct injection engine? It would be cool if you could make a video about the tuning options for the ZD30 DDTI. Greetings Nemi
We don’t work on the ZD30 Di model, how ever yes, you can do similar upgrades and get a similar result. All diesels will benefit from these kind of mods.
Can’t say I ever what the AFR’s where like in this video, if you can’t afford a tune straight away, you can use two things. You’re eyes and a egt gauge. If you’re seeing soot out the tail pipe while it’s on boost, it’s too rich, if your egts are going north of 500c in the dump, it’s probably too rich also.
Have you done anything with the BMW M57 and the Mercedes OM606 and 648 I think it is? I know the 606 spins some high rev's on a mechanical pump and it sounds lovely aswell
This was an extremely informative video. Thanks. Can reducing intake temps through an upgraded intercooler and tune also help keep coolant water temps down too? Even if only passively? I have a MN Triton with the 4D56 (2.5L) motor, the model which has the known factory overheating issue due to a pitted block surface. No symptoms for me so far fingers crossed / touch wood, my CWT stays around 87-90 unless I'm flogging it up a big hill. But would adding an intercooler and tuning be beneficial in reducing the risk of that happening? I know the radiator is kind of a separate system, but would reducing IATs help keep the whole engine cooler and reduce CWTs too? Or is it best to focus on a bigger radiator, piping, thermostat changes etc.?
The more heat we can remove before it enters the engine, the better. In certain vehicle, yes an upgraded cooler and clean tune will help keep egts in check, lower combustion temps, means less heat introduced into the block and head, and eventually into the cooling system. For a vehicle which as yours, with known issues, it’s tough to say whether it would be worth the effort or not. Performance wise, you’ll defiantly notice a difference, as far as cooling, I think it may only help if you actually had an issue.
@@boostedsagas884 That makes sense. Thanks for your quick reply. I'm interested in getting an upgraded aftermarket intercooler before tuning - I like the idea of cooling everything down and helping efficiency. One aftermarket intercooler claims 30% more surface area (slightly thicker than OEM), another claims to add a whopping 120% (it is over double the size of the standard cooler in width, so makes sense). I'm wondering if going for the 120% intercooler will have any negatives to be mindful of? Turbo lag? Assuming that I get a tune to optimise everything.
The A750’s require a HD valve body before even starting, then we suggest staying under 600-650nm. Specific tuning is required to help them survive, plus it’s never great to let them shift foot flat, or tow on big tunes.
Hi fellas, thanks for posting! What are your egt's like on long pulls? I tow a small van, chipped, 3" exhaust etc, intercooler upgrade (not the big one) and pretty much have to keep one eye on the egt at all times - it will hit 550deg very quickly up hills or overtaking. It has loads of power, just can't use it, as the egt spikes so quick!
If you chip doesn’t allow for boost to be increased, this will be your problem. When increasing fuel, we need to increase air volume. This is usually done by increasing boost pressure. On stock turbo, I’d be aiming for 18psi on a FTE. This vehicle was set up for towing and touring, hence it having 5 map select. The owner can choose which tune works best for his driving conditions.
@@boostedsagas884 thanks for your reply, much appreciated, that's the problem then, it stops at 15 psi on the gauge. Looks like a unichip and a turbo upgrade, as I love my fte hundy.
That’s literally exactly what we are doing here. If the system is operating normally, it’s not a big deal. But if the vac solenoids are faulty, you either need to replace and confirm everything is working correctly, or bypass and leave them open 24/7 as I do here.
Ideally bigger is better. More surface area you have, the better chance it can dissipate heat. Assuming you give it good access to cool fresh ambient airflow.
@@boostedsagas884 easy thank you very much also will bigger be fine with stock turbo ? I have a reckoned delica pump installed and am pushing 10 Psi but will probably up it with new intercooler
I got a 2024 Integra A-spec that I am debating upgrading the intercooler. I just want a fun daily driver. Should I expect that 10hp gain? Also, is it worth upgrading the intercooler outlet and charger pipes? I do plan on eventually tuning the car when the warranty is close to being over. I am also likely upgrading the intake and probably a catback exhaust. Not sure if that would affect the power gains at all. I am obviously new at this.
Intercoolers can be even more important in spark ignition engines. As high intake temps reduce timing, which reduces power. So yeah, for sure worth upgrading especially if you intent on tuning the engine at a later date. Intercooler Pipe size doesn’t make a big difference to power gains. Money would be better spent on exhaust, intake, and tuning.
Hi mate Thanks for all your great vids. I have a ZD30 CRD. Re TB48 swap, i would like to get your thoughts on the Mishimoto Racing Thermo which opens at 60 degrees. More $ but some 15 degree cooler again than the TB48. Appreciate your thoughts.
