On this episode, we touch base on what's required to make 200hp on you're zd30. Yes there are other methods, and yes it can be done cheaper. However these are some of the products we use to hit that 200hp mark.
One of, if not the best, informative vids I've seen yet on YT about the trade-offs involved in tuning diesels. Well done mate! Equally important is the knowledge based on experience that you give. So hard to find and rarely given away. As a ZD30 CR owner I love your content and look forward to your updates. Will be interested to see the differences in Toyota tuning (as opposed to Nissan equivalents) when they are published. Great stuff.
Appreciate that mate. It’s a fine line I find, between giving away good information for the general public so they can better understand, and make better decisions when performing upgrades on their cars. And just giving away heard earned knowledge on tuning that’s taken us years to find out ourselves. We will do our best to keep these style of videos coming.
Just bought my first 4x4 and discovered these videos.... race car mechanic by day, I'm used to big displacement high reving Petrol engines etc. I have no idea about diesels however. So always keen to get educated on something new. 03 patrol auto with the ZD30.
Awesome buddy, we love trying to share what information we can. It helps the whole industry when people better understand what’s involved in making power efficiently from a diesel.
Thanks brother, appreciate it. It’s “easy” for some shops to push things to their limits for the sake of making figures, but to do it cleanly and efficiently is the aim of the game.
On my zd30 crd I have replaced injectors at 200k done 3 inch exhaust egr block bigger intercooler provent catch can gfb v2 boost controller hd clutch with smf flywheel and stock turbo 21psi makes 175hp and 470nm and has done so for last 40k reliably as!!! Regular servicing and a bit of mechanical sympathy they are a good thing!!
LOL, you missed a swear jar S### @ 15:30 I really enjoyed watching this, info was good and sound. Just for record and was asked, I run plenty of mods to a Di including big FMIC and W2A setups but on stock ECU (DP-Chip fitted) and stock snail. Able to hold 110 along the freeway, up and down all the hills, EGT's under 450°C (post turbo that is fitted with blanket and dump pipe is wrapped) and you know what, 440,000+ on the clock and still doing 11L per 100 town driving and gets down near 10L/100 on HWY.
Welllllll shit. I did too 😂😂😂 Well that’s just proof right there isn’t it. Keep combustions temps under control, and there no reason why they won’t last for a very long time.
@@boostedsagas884 looking forward to it! I know you touched on it in this episode but I’d like to see a back to back difference of stock injectors vs +30s on trying to achieve say 250hp
@@liamsweeney299 in our opinion, they simply won’t make that power. I’m yet to see anyone around here make that with out 30’s. It’s just not efficient and not advised to push them that hard. When we went from stock injecotrs to +30’s, with the exact tune it made 235hp and 260hp with the 30’s. With less smoke out the tail pipe. Plus a bucket load more torque, lower egts, and better on fuel. There is just no reason you wouldn’t upgrade.
@@boostedsagas884 yeah copy that. Mine made 275, standard injectors but on a hub dyno I know this is inflated compared to a wheel dyno. Think I’ll slap a set of +30s in it to get the most efficient power out of it now. What is your take on these +100 caps people are starting to use? Is this necessary compared to 30s
@@liamsweeney299 that’s it, every dyno is different, hub/chassis, mainline/dyno dynamics, then you’ve got Mustang dynos in there too. They all read differently. End of the day, there a tuning tool, not a tool measuring stick 😂😂 We have a set of “100’s” here to do some testing on, just never got round to the time. From my understanding their extrude honed nozzles, we generally prefer to use genuine nozzles, as quality control is “usually” higher. Not to say the 100’s are a good thing, they tested up good on the bench, and defiantly flow more then the 30’s. So for a car in the high 280-300+ (on our dyno) range they are probably a better fit. For 200-250hp the 30’s do it comfortably. We had a 280hp set up come in we where going to put the 100’s in, just run out of time with a few other dramas. I’d love to test them on a set up that actually requires it.
Not watched this clip yet, but have watched others you have, you give great explanations, very clear & understandable. It's great to finally find someone working on Patrols. I have a 3L CRD. I'd be happy with figures shown above from the ECO tune. Do you have a vid on how to achieve those figures / what's required to get those figures? Thanks for the info and the videos.
@@boostedsagas884 Yep, watched that clip. Thanks. I used it to help diagnose a boost problem I had with my Dawse valve setup. Thankas again for being generous with your knowledge and puttings these vids out, I for one really appreciate it.
I’ve done “ALL” of this to a 2004 zd30 nav, cept the turbo is different ( pats & navs have a different style of turbo) , & the ecu was done by Jamie n, I’ve not had it dyno’d but it’s very strong- I’m guessing between 170-200 hp, a much much better driving experience,
That's mint for these little motors, their potential is awesome! Realistically though, whats a good service life for a 3.0 diesel motor pushing 200hp? Like, should you be happy getting 100k out of it before finding problems or is there no reason (if well maintained of course) that they wouldn't go the distance? And how does it go for average fuel economy at that level? Does it drink deep or is it not much worse than stock?
Great question, we don’t see there being any reliability issues if everything is maintained properly. Though we don’t just mean oil and filter, but cooling system, fuel filters, injectors replaced every 150k etc etc. Diesels are inherently very stout, zd30’s are no exception. Heat really is the biggest killer of any diesel. It’s not very often you hear of one just randomly breaking a rod or crank (except for a TD42 or 4J 😂😂). But, melted pistons and blown head gaskets is a weekly occurrence even in stock engines. So if we play close attention to heat management, and a good maintenance schedule, I don’t see why this power level can’t be sustained for a long time. As for fuel economy. This one being a auto, I’d say it will possibly be worse, as the converter really flare a lot when making this kind of power. With a new tighter converter, or in a manual, fuel economy will only be effect if your driving it foot flat every. Normal day to day driving should be any worse, in some case we often hear back fuel economy has improved.
Sick vid so much info. I'd love to see a cluster vid of an auto źd with 200hp just to see how it goes. I've got a steinbauer and 3inch exhaust which came with it and after fitting 35s it is in need of more power. My injectors are dieing as well so maybe a good opportunity to go the plus 30s. Keep up the vids mate
@@boostedsagas884 that's unreal, that's pumping for a 4wd. Back when I was on 33 muddies i did 0 100 in 16 seconds, and that's with stalling it up. Not game to time it with the 35s 😶
what’s ur thoughts on boost actuators over vacuum? the brand im looking at has a 16psi and a 20psi and he was saying the 20 will be fine pre tune unless im towing something heavy. 2008 zd30 CRD only has 3” straight pipe exhaust. will have snorkel, boost and egt gauges and intercooler fan soon
Great video, came across it researching next steps for my injectors. ZD30 and just gone 200k. Had cracked the exhaust, so opted for 3”, discovered today got a slight leak in injector 4 so looking at next steps. Turbo, intercooler done within last 2yrs. Single mass HD clutch done 12m ago. Next steps I was thinking tune to get a bit more up hills when towing. Now with the injector issue, wondering next best steps and would be keen to hear your thoughts. Take them all out and service back to factory, get new factory ones, or go bigger and better while I’m at it.
I never bother servicing or inspecting, just replace. New injecotrs, glow plugs, gaskets etc etc. then get yourself a tube to make a little more power and torque for better drive ability.
great video again mate. I'm in need of new injectors and I'm planning to come over for a tune within the next 12 months. I'm not looking for massive hp as my gu feels pretty good to drive unloaded but I tow 1.5 ton daily and as soon as there's a hill it struggles so much. if I was looking for a safe tow tune would I need plus 30s or just genuine? I also have the smaller cross country top mount, would that be sufficient for a safe tune? I'm wanting to prepare the car for your tune before I organise to come over from SA
Interesting video, are you located at Beerwah? I've got a 96 GQ 2.8,l turbo diesel. Do you have any videos up in the boost I want these. I believe from what the old owner who owned master of its life said nothing's been done to it. Original turbo, injectors. Cheers Graham
Of course, we can do anything from a basic remap, up to stand alone ecu with big injectors, turbo etc etc 350+hp. All depends on what your trying to achieve. You’ll be best off contacting the shop though via messenger or calling up and having a chat.
I NEED HELP,,, I HAVE A NISSAN TERRANO ZD30 DDTI ENGINE, THE TURBO IS FINE BUT WHEN I ACELERATE THE CAR THE RPM DOES NOT GO UNDER 2500rpm .... Not having power, some say might be the computer other say might be the injector pump.
Great video! I have been following your advice on the forums and videos whilst researching what i would like to achieve for my CRD Patrol (auto). I am slowly adding the mods to prepare for Alphatec + tune (hopefully travel up from NSW to you). I have a few questions: - do you think the zd30 patrol auto (with the mods and similar gains in the his vid - 200hp reliably) will be up to scratch to tow up to 2 to 2.2 tonne comfortably? - does the big 4inch snorkel provide significant gains over the classic Safari style snorkel (currently running fabwitz intake and safari type snorkel) - is a 600 size intercooler required or will a 550 or 450 do just as well with the ZL30. - Is there a contact in Sydney you would recommend to get the valve body upgrade and converter de-stalled before making the trip t you guys or best to do at once? Cheers John
I’d for sure do the valve body and converter. It makes a world of difference. Especially once we double the factory torque. Good intake and a bigger airbox is all that’s really needed, the standard patrol snorkel flows enough for 200hp.
Have you done anything with the BMW M57 and the Mercedes OM606 and 648 I think it is? I know the 606 spins some high rev's on a mechanical pump and it sounds lovely aswell
Spraying the outside of the intercooler will defiantly help from the water evaporation, helping to pull heat from the intercooler. The only downside to this, is if your in dusty conditions, you’ll end up with mud essentially building up on the cooler over time.
Would you say biggest thing for a DI would be heat management and I could do the same set up to make power in my DI I have a 06 DI motor in my 01 wagon and I'm wanting more out of it. I've got a tillix kit on it witch has helped egts but just wanting more out of it now
The Di’s are limited on power due to the factory injectors. Do all your basic mods, intake, good intercooler etc etc. once your at that point, get it remapped. You’ll make around the 120-130hp mark. Beyond this you’ll need larger injectors to make more power, and then the stock turbo kinda runs outta puff around 150hp, so a turbo upgrade which will take you from 150-200hp depending on your other mods.
@@boostedsagas884 awesome cheers mate, I think I have read that you can't remap or tune the DI were you. Im based in Brisbane and would like for you to do it if your able too
Yep 100%, for the 250hp range you need a Sefer turbo then the ZL30 in our opinion. There perfectly suited this for kinda of power level though. With near factory turbo response.
Good evening, I have a question, would this also be possible with a ZD30 direct injection engine? It would be cool if you could make a video about the tuning options for the ZD30 DDTI. Greetings Nemi
We don’t work on the ZD30 Di model, how ever yes, you can do similar upgrades and get a similar result. All diesels will benefit from these kind of mods.
Nope, you can literally do the exact same set up, just different injectors and a remap as the Alpha is only for CRD diesels. And it should happily make 180hp.
G'day I'm wondering about issues with grenading the ZD30 I'm thinking of getting a Patrol and the longevity of the 3.0 is something I'm mindful of How does adding this extra performance not exacerbate this issue? Thank you for your time Regards, Will
The zd30 crd is no more likely to “grenade” then a 1KD or 3.2Ltr ranger. To be honest every time we tune a hilux or prado, I’m more fearful of them cracking a piston then sending a zd30 out the door st this power level. As for the 3.2ltr ranger. We have virtually stopped tuning them all together as they blow up left right and centre in stock form. The only modern 4cylinder that won’t crack a piston is likely to be the 4J, but it will just snap the crank instead and totally destroy itself. If you want the vehicle to be reliable, you do the mods correctly, and focus on efficiency, not outright power. That way combustion temps stay low, while power and torque levels increase. Instead of tuning something to its limits on stock parts, and waiting for the candle to burn out.
hey mate good video just wondering if youve heard of (gulag) he runs 300 hp on 37s hes got fmic gturbo300 100+ injectors staino snorkel/airbox kit and ultraboost ecu tune ? What are your thoughts on this rig ive been following him and it has lasted over 100xxxkms
Yeah I know the car. Pretty sure it lifted the head a couple of months ago. Think he is now adding some ARP head studs and ditching the Gturbo for a gated set up, I think. Don’t quote me on that. He is also running water meth injection too. Which is a great idea for dropping intake temps and helping to add some fuel. As the stock fuel pumps really tap out at 300hp. These are a strong little motor, with the right mods can make decent power. But, like anything, if you push it hard, you can’t get upset when things go wrong. 200hp we feel is a pretty comfortable level for these engines.
For high up applications, or heavy rigs in hot climate, we run a genuine TB48 thermostat in the crd variant. They are a direct swap, and run at a cooler temp over stock. They won’t fit the DI variety though.
What’s good power to you, may be crap power to someone else. If you consider you’ve probably got around 100hp from factory or even less. 150hp could be 50% increase in power and torque.
These patrols? We tune both. The one in this video, I can’t honestly remember. If the torque figure starts really high and has a straight incline down across the dyno run, it’s a auto. If it starts low and ramps up for a peak then drops again, it’s a manual.
It’s kinda hard to avoid that fact, but when we look at percentages, there’s a lot of effort that goes into engines to gain 60% in power and torque. Diesels are no different, just we normally start with lower figures 😂😂
To be fair, it’s pretty much on par with a td42 if your paying a shop for all the work on a stock motor like this one did. For example, td42 with UFI pump, turbo, injectors, fmic, air-box, snorkel, clutch and exhaust, you ain’t getting any change from 15k. Then you’ll likely need a cooling system over haul, as their all just old and in need of maintenance especially once you double the stock power. Of course it can be done cheaper by doing the work yourself and using different parts.
