This was very interesting. The nylon caged bearings you showed looked kind of shielded to me. With nylon. Not a very good conductor of heat. My take is they might work well on a stock saw. If you want to modify a saw it seems to me that the steel caged non shielded bearings would be the best option. People that take the time to modify a saw will probably make sure they have good air filtration. So then we have lubrication and heat conduction, on both counts I would think steel caged is superior. On the other hand I recently purchased some 6201 bearings. Both shielded and rubber sealed were rated at 22,000 rpm . In both cases the bearings were steel caged. So I don't really know. Maybe crankcase bearings take more of a pounding, that's why they don't use sealed bearings?
I am loving these new echos! I am always super surprised at what the factory squish is. They really open up when ported though it’s amazing how much power can be gained on them
G’day Richard, great video as usual. I have a question regarding the clutches on Stihl Pole saws. Why do they appear to go loose, not engage, after only a short time? I have Husky at home, never had an issue, but the one’s at work are constantly needing clutch replacement…
Check the drive ends and see if there is any wear. I've seen the square drive spin in the plastic spline drive. Pole saws are a pretty complicated piece of equipment. Keep it simple and see if that helps.
I managed to replace the bearing in my km94 it's the same molded in bearing 🤬🤷♂️ I cut around the outside edge replaced the bearing and melted it back in place with a heated up socket. Worked a treat.
Good video Richard. I enjoy Scott as well, between the two of you I am learning to work on my own stuff as well as the usual few favors for friends. Thank you for the time you put into making content.
Thanks for sharing the video.Using a file to sharpen the chain is indeed a good method to understand the hardness of the material. If you guys are interested in our chainsaw chain, search hipa parts and you will find us.
I have an 029 Stihl. I go through a lot of starter pawls. I've used both ,OEM and aftermarket starter pawls. I've converted to the 2 (double pawl) pawl set-up . Still go through too many starter pawls. I've checked for crank bearing play with the starter cover off & chain and bar off by trying to wiggle the flywheel. No play . I do have " flatish " wear on the flywheel bosses (bump-outs, tits,) where the pawls engage with the flywheel. My Stihl dealer says that it's not a problem with the flywheel , they see it all the time. Could the flats in the flywheel be my problem with having to habitually change starter pawls ??
That’s very nice of you to fix the 310 for that gentleman. A lot of dealerships won’t do a seal job on an 1127 series due to the labor to get to the seals. I’ve rebuilt dozens of them over the years and they have always been good runners.
Hi R..another good one I don't know how I missed it. I've watched so many I may have forgot (Old)..thank you for what your doing for all of us again. I hope one day we'll meet.
