Check out Storefront for BEST DEALS on most Common parts Blades, Filters, etc LINK BELOW Channel Earns Commission First off my name is Chris, but you can call me Sartin. Ive been a Technician/Mechanic since 1992 and Certified on many major Brands. I will be doing a variety of things to Small Engine Repair, Chainsaws, Trimmers, Blowers, Lawn Tractors, Zero Turns, Auto Repair, Car Stereos, Speakers, Amplifiers, HotRods, Engine Builds, Appliance Repair, Boat Repair, ATV Repair, UTV Repair, and More. There is No Telling what you will learn at Sartin Garage. Ive spent my whole life learning to fix things. But what I have learned over the years, I want to share this with you to Help Save you Time and Money. If this is things you would like to learn ? Go check out all my videos and Don't forget LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my channel and make sure to hit the 🔔 for future notifications of Videos.
Best video I've seen on checking the charging system. I have a 2002 John Deere GX335 lawn tractor and information on it and parts for it are very scarce and come very dear. This video made it easy to fix both this one and my other lawn mower and this is the very first time I've run into a charging issue. You're absolutely correct about charging the battery but I believe this happened because my husband was boosting it with the car, which I didn't know. On an aside not all of us out here, are guys. Some of us are gals because if I left it to up my better half, John Deere would be a lot richer. He's just not all that mechanically inclined and would rather make dinner and I just happened to grow up with 5 brothers. Thanks again.
did all the tests the only thing i noticed was the stator was putting out 26vac, battery at 14.6 while running, 12.3 not running. Battery goes dead while using pto. Any suggestions? Just replaced pto same result.
Most likely Short In Key Switch or PTO switch. Hook meter to battery Then start mower engage blades and watch meter. Move the key around while it's running . Jiggle the pto switch. If shows any indication that it stops charging. Replace whichever part seems to have the short.
@outboardfixer This was my first ever video so my editing skills weren't that great. Here is a better edited Version ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eZndhOJLp64.htmlsi=JsIDbDZrM1dYV4L6 Start at 2:30 to start where you left off Click the link not the 2:30 as it will take you to original Video
@outboardfixer Sorry Then I guess if you don't want to learn how to fix it, Take it to someone who already knows how to do it. There is No simple way to explain to someone how to check the complete Charging System. Everybody wants everything to be simple. It's hardly ever Simple. But good luck with getting your charging System to work.
Very informative. I have 45vac at the two whites with the connector unpluged from the regulator, but only 9.5vdc at the purple when connected to the regulator. Both checks with Kohler running wide open. What's my problem or next check to be made. Thanks
Check base of regulator to make sure it is grounded. One lead on base of regulator, other lead on Ground to engine block or battery Negative. Kohlers have a jumper ground wire from base on regulator to engine Shroud and alot of times they lose connection. If base of regulator is not grounded remove and clean this wire where it connects. Also check Purple wire for battery Voltage with Key in ON position. There has to be battery voltage going to Regulator on purple wire for regulator to work correctly.
@@sartingarage8045 The regulator was not grounded, so I added a ground wire as per your video. I checked the DC voltage at both the regulator purple and the harness connector at the front of the engine by the spark plug, and I got 3.5vdc at each location with the key switch "on", but not running. Does it make any difference which way the regulator connector plugged into the regulator?
Sounds like you either have a power problem to key Switch or the Key Switch itself is bad. Here is a key Switch Test Video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rOqwb0KaHQI.html After testing key switch make sure you have battery Voltage to the B terminal in Connector that plugs into Key Switch.
I did do a Tuneup on it, New Fuel Lines, Fuel Filter, Carb Cleaned and Rebuilt with new Carb Kit, and also put a new Chain on it. You can tell by the Fuel line color, Factory fuel lines are Not Yellow, They are clear or Black. Look at the Fuel line on the right side of Carb vs the one I replaced on the left side of Carb.
I have a cub cadet with a kawasaki motor. Followed your instructions, I am getting 12+v coming out of the VR while running, not 14+. Changed VR, same thing. However, one thing I noticed is that I have 12v at the bottom wire on VR with the key in the off position. Any ideas? Already tried a new ignition switch. Didn't change anything.
@jo2outdoors Voltage to Regulator with Key OFF will most likely be shorted out Key Switch. Unplug connector to key Switch Test the wire again There should be No Voltage Here is link to test key switch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rOqwb0KaHQI.html
What if I am getting 60v from the stator and the brand new voltage regulator (after market) is putting out 20v? Overcharging my battery. I think this killed my PTO clutch as well. I just replaced that as well. John Deere STX38 Kohler CV13S. Thanks and a great video.
@richarddaprato1349 Are you boosting or Jump Starting the Mower? If the battery is completely dead the charging system will put out 20 + volts. Never boost mowers with Voltage Regulators.. It can and will destroy the battery and charging System. As for 60v out of stator that's a bit high. Are you checking this Voltage on the stator with the Stator unplugged from Voltage Regulator. If not , unplug from Voltage Regulator and test. If the voltage is around 30v with unplugged, May have something shorting out. Like maybe ignition Coil allowing spark to go to Ground causing this High Voltage of 60v.
@fabiangomez357 Yeah I only changed the one Side but other side looked OK and wasn't making any noise. But if yours is clunking while turning sharp, I would also replace both sides Don't forget to have Alignment done afterwards.
@lamerariataaaaa Not necessarily You may have sucked something in your fan causing the noise. I would remove the fan and check for that before I ordered new Blower Motor. And check and Replace Cabin Filter also Links to all this in Description
@E78merlin This is just a short clip of the actual Video On the bottom left of screen when watching the short Video there is a Play Button that will take you to the actual Video. But I am in the passenger side Below glovebox. But here is the link to full Video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TKasgT76TkA.html
Thanks for the video. Getting ready to apply this method on my Kohler Command 20. It's 20 years old and just had it serviced. The guy installed a new seal as it was leaking oil so I think he would have noticed any stator issues? Probably some rusty connections.
It does the same thing. It seems like it almost dies when I engage the PTO but it never has died from that. It's weird because I can run it all day and once I shut it down it doesen't want to start until it's cooled way down. At least before the guy worked on it. Now I have to jump it every time I shut it down.
@Corey-dy2cq He may not have checked the charging system if it was took in for just an Oil leak. But even if he did check it, Anything can go wrong after everything checks OK. As far as it almost dies when engaging PTO sound like it maybe running on one Cylinder if it's a twin Cylinder , Or Govenor is not set Correctly is where I would start.
We have a 20A fuse that runs between the key switch and voltage regulator. It keeps blowing, not quite instantly, but within a minute or 2. This is on a Kawasaki 38.5 EFI engine. Any ideas on the cause? Scag Cheetah 2 mower. Thank you for a good video!
@tallfarmboy Most common cause of this is faulty Key Switch. Here is key Switch Test Video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rOqwb0KaHQI.html
I have a kolher 18 craftsman riding mower with a electric powered hydraulic front bucket loader that’s not charging I hope mines simple as a bad ground going to mess with it today thank you didn’t know witch wires went to the stator
My 240 starts like a champ. Going full throttle kills it. Gotta feather the throttle to use it. (brand new mix in it every time, air filter is flawless).
I recently had a charging issue on my Toro titan. Turned out to be the wire from the regulator. I have 2 of these mowers. What I found strange was on these with Kawasaki engines There is battery power full time to the at the regulator wire with the switch off. This goes against what videos describe. Would not have trusted the system f I had not had another to compare to. Does not appear to be powered by the switch. So to repair I just ran anew wire from the regulator to the battery with an inline fuse. Appears to be fine. Getting 14 + volts to the battery at full RPM. Just to let you know about the Toro system.
My Kohler is putting out about 45vac but the regulator is barely 12.6vdc. If I check just the center prong in the plug, it reads battery voltage. I bent the center pin up so it wouldn’t be in the plug and it read 0.7vdc. I think the regulator is bad.
@ksmith0110 Check Center Pin on Regulator for Battery Voltage with key ON, Check base of Regulator to make sure it is grounded. Meter on Ohms One lead on base of Regulator other lead to Engine block or battery Ground. Should be infinite. If both these tests are Good Replace Regulator Links for Regulator in Description
@jasondenney4304 This can be several different things Most Common being Unplug key Switch Connector. Install new fuse If fuse doesn't blow Replace Key Switch
Amen brother! Ordered a set of 25 carb tools for my einhell 25 cc strimmer! New coil,new cap qnd plug,fuel tank flush and new fuel lines with fuel filter..still bogs at higher rpm....got to be this! Thanks! Will let you know by next week if i fixed it!
What does this mean? Mine bogs down on higher revs and back fires sometimes...new coil n plug fitted myself and fuel tank flush new fuel lines n filter....
@goldeneagle99 Also maybe check spark Arrest Screen, They can become partially clogged. Here is a Video on clogged spark Arrest Screen. It's on a Echo Trimmer, But close to the same Will give you a idea how anyways ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DglnJlCMdHI.html
I used this degreaser and i left it sit overnight on my mini bike carb. It has all these white residue spots on it even after a rinse and blow out. Will those spots need to be washed out or does it not matter. Thanks and have a great day!
I don't know if I would have let soak overnight. That Awesome is pretty powerful degreaser. If it's just on the outside of Carburetor should be fine. But if it's on the inside of Carb, I'd try to get it out.
Thanks just saw your reply and i really appriate it. I needed to do this cause on my mini bike it was layed on its side and oil got everywhere. Blow excess out the top and put more oil in and but still doesnt run right. Spark plug is black after only a few minutes. Any pointers there?
The prefilter should be before the paper filter so the outside air hits it first. A light soaking of oil and regular cleaning/oiling and the paper filter should last a long while.
@@sartingarage8045 oh perfect then! Just hard to see from the video. Good job, air filters tend to be quite important for the running quality and longevity of an engine!
Man, I need to see what's going on with mine. Mine barley turns over like it's a dead battery, but battery is brand new. Ground wire gets smoking hot that runs to negative side of battery. Not sure what's going on.
having watched all three videos I now feel ready to tune my own 235, even though its 2008 it should be good, anyways ive a question, could you tune the saw with the bar and chain off? then if needed retune when its reassembled? to keep the safety on the right side! Awesome video my man, your particularness is very obvious without being ocd
@bommm22 I Would Not recommend tuning saw without bar & chain attached to chainsaw. Can sheer flywheel key and I have seen the clutch come loose & fly off.
Great video. Only thing is If your not getting the voltage you stated Then you should state what the exact problem is. Stator is bad. Voltage regulator is bad, battery is bad. Switch is bad.. this will greatly help the greenhorns
If your testing the stator for Voltage and it doesn't show the correct Voltage you replace the muffler....joke No really Basically what I'm meaning is you can't just test the output on the voltage regulator and if there is NO Voltage or not enough voltage you can't just assume Bad Voltage Regulator The Base of Regulator has to be grounded And there has to be Voltage coming to the Regulator from key Switch before Voltage Regulator will work Correctly. Those 2 things need to be checked before Replacing Voltage Regulator.
I have 2 questions. 1. You say that when I connect A2 to B I should hear a beep. If I don't does that mean the switch is bad? I tested a brand new one and when I connect A2 to B it doesn't beep either. 2. When testing the ignition coil with a multimeter, when the key is off it doesn't beep. That does mean the new ignition switch is bad?
