It’s very nice to see someone actually create something with their own hands and som hand tools instead of all these cnc cutting and assembling videos. Beautiful work
There is this old saying (Or what ever it's called in eng), if it is true i dont know. but there is logic behind it. "Whom ever builds a stone arch, is the person who knocks down it's supports once it's done" The logic behind it is IF it collapses due to shoddy craftsmanship, only the builder that built it will die or get hurt from it. Pretty logical and reasonable, given removing the reinforsements and the frame from the arch is the most dangerous part of the project. Once you knock out the frame, you'll know if you F up or did a good job. So knowing you are going to HAVE to knock down your own frame, to the stone arch you just built. Is a pretty dang good reason to make sure you did a good job. Good way to not half arsing any jobb.
Using the bucket of water with a clear tube as a level was ground breaking to me, id never thought of it but as soon as i saw you doing it i immediately knew what was happening, it blew my mind. I'm going to be using that from now on, incredibly useful
For anyone wondering about the design. (It is not clear to most people who don't have experience in building these.) The flames and gasses rise up in the firebox and hit the cooktop "ceiling." They are then pulled to "our right" over the small brick wall laping across more of the iron cooktop. (This can be seen when he lifts up part of the cooktop.) The gasses move down the thin channel on the right of the firebox and actually pass under the firebox. So, in summary, the flame/ gasses go up, (hit cooktop,) then "right," under the cooktop, then straight down, then " turn left to go under the firebox," then up to chimney and out of the house. The most important thing in making this stove is the "damper" inside the main firebox that allows the flame and hot gasses to move directly into the chimney for the first 10 minutes when the "system is cold." Once the chimney is hot, the damper on the left of the firebox can be closed and there will be "enough pull" in the system to pull the gasses up and over the brick wall now "to the right," and then down, and then left under the firebox, and then out. Without this ability to "heat everything up" FIRST, a stove that asks the gasses to "do straight down" will smoke your house out and be unusable.
Picked up two older scythes, not knowing a dang thing about em, coming from this video, I got everything i need to start cutting grass. One of the handles was REALLy short...must of be a squat little feller.
I really like what you did with this "heater" or "stove". Went on the internet looking for plans etc. but found nothing significant. Where did you find the plans for yours? If this is your own design, do you have plans available.
I know this is probably my ignorance but is it just the friction of the shaped ends of wood on the rocks holding it all in place. I get the rest of the structure is heavy and interlocks but say someone with some kinda hydraulic car jack put one at each stone it would just lift? I figuredthat the stone got a mortisse an tenon thing. Looks really cool but my small brain is afraid of that lifting in a hurricane or something.
I'm a 60 yr old, newly widowed female on 30 acres in rural East Texas. I found scythe videos and had to try it! Two days ago, I purchased 2 antique scythes. I've spent this evening looking for usable information. Your channel and 1 other are the BEST I've found! From your info, I have a 24" course grass/brush blade and a 16" brush blade. The snath on the 24" blade is in better shape. The nibs are movable, the wood seems in fairly good condition. The snath on the 17" blade isn't horrible, but it probably needs some tlc. Any advice on something to put on the wood to revitalize it? Next, the 24" blade has been coated in polyurethane or some such glossy substance, I'm sure for display purposes. Remove it? ...or just go to grinding and honing? It has no visible edge. ...it >might< cut hot butter. The 17" is pretty rusty. I've heard grinding off the rust could ruin the temper. Suggestions on cleaning it up? Due to many months of caring for my husband, Dog Bane and Golden Rod are my main enemies taking over right now. Yes, I'm aware of medicinal properties of Golden Rod and have plenty dried and tincture from last year so this year's "crop" is getting mowed! I'd like to get scything asap! >ANY< actual usable help is much appreciated! By the way, my mom, my sons and most friends think I'm crazy for choosing this method. I figure it's lower maintenance than a lawnmower ... which isn't going to do a thing for these weeds that are taller than I am, and one day this will be a vital skill. Plus, I could stand to lose a few pounds and tone up. 🤭 Sounds like a win-win to me! Thanks for this video! It's a gem!
if the wood is in good shape a liberal coating of linseed oil will help it, often old dry wood will soak up a large deal of oil and even swell some scracks shut. On the old blades, I would wire brush off the surface rust and keep them coated in oil to prevent future rust. I like to use fluid film to wipe down all my steel garden tools after use but baby oil will also work. on those blades you will need to grind them carefully to get a good thin sharp edge back. There are lots of ways to do this from angle grinder to bench grinder the temper will be fine if you go slowly and keep the blde moving on the grindstone. dunk it in water if it feels hot. the steel will turn colors like blue if it gets too hot, thats what you want to avoid. the more course the grindstone you use, the less heat it builds up in use and faster it removes material.
Wow. I’m putting a yurt on my land, which already has a bunch of volcanic boulders and a friend sent me this video to share his idea of where and how to place the yurt on the boulders. Thanks for sharing this technique. Admire how much work this took…so labor intensive without power tools. 🙏🏻👏🏻
How and where did you manage to learned to build this way? Is there a online school to learn the theory behind it ?( I know this could be a stupid question)
@Mr. Chickadee, I know im 8 years late to the party here, but I'm in the middle of trying to split a huge chunk of pink granite right now using hand tools. Does the application of water seem to help in speeding up the drilling process?
No water just removes the swarf, air can be blown to do the same. Check out single jack drilling competition here in youtube. For granite id use s plug drill not a star drill
@@MrChickadee Thank you so much for responding to my question! I'm using a star drill that I found for dirt cheap at an antique store, but do plan on building a up and inventory of quality trow and holden hand tools over time. I began adding water and oddly enough it seemed to make the drilling go much more quickly. Maybe its because of the fact the swarf isn't building up in the bottom of the hole? either way thanks for talking to me, I have been a huge fan for many years now, you're a tremendous inspiration.
@@MrChickadee Hi Josh! Thanks for responding especially on an older video! I'll have a dig. Thanks so much. Also I saw your comment that the captions are full of descriptions so looking forward to rewatching the ones I have. Thanks for sharing all this priceless info with the world!