As for SUMO: I charge people at least 9USD per hour of print. Or at least 0.3USD/gr of the cheapest filament. Therefore printing of the sumo parts (assuming values given in the video) is: 105USD for 3kg of PETG (I don't use cheap chinese stuff), but including the print time its 585USD- 900USD (depending on which method of print quote I'd use). Also - I wouldn't print such horribly disgusting thing for myself, as presentend in the video - so most probably it'd took me more than 65 hours. I wouldn't pay 300USD just to incure 2-3x more cost by rpinting all the parts by myself. And the resulting enclosure is clunky and ugly. Prusa enclosure has two critical flaws: it is not tight enough - it will require substantial modification to cover all the holes, and it needs active heating (good quality ABS needs at least 65-70C inside, or it will crack and worp like crazy). All the panels should be replaced with polycarbonate ones (acrylic is disgusting). I think I'll just design something myself. Polycarbonate panels, with Elesa hinges, some magnets for quick removal. and lots of heavy duty duct tape to seall everything up. 500W PTC heater and 24V LED strips as a cherry on top.
Yeah it was not that simple for me. I was out here with snap ring pliers forcibly opening the spring and hanging upside down practically to get under at my hot end
I would be in for one but with shipping it ends up being $125 to the US which is really too much to justify over the $30 Bambu offers. You guys need to setup better US distribution
Great video! I used this video to replace my hotend. The printout was perfect. I didnt know about the REVO when i ordered a new hotend from Prusa. I will be ordering on in the future. Thanks for the video!
Was there ever official E3D-designed printed parts for the Hemera Classic on MK3? I can't find anything useful with this now-discontinued extruder.... so now I need to buy this new Roto Extruder for hundreds more? ugh
so many videos on how to install it which I know how, but no where showing me what I need to do to benefit from the higher flow... how do I set it up in the slicer?
I’ve been looking for any information on RU-vid after I just received two of them from my X1’s. I can’t imagine it would not require any setting adjustments ? Right.
@@jaylawvlogs264 if we're increasing the flow rate, we're also going to increase the print speed to compensate so I'd assume that slicer settings would have to be changed.
I just want to buy a fully loaded kit for my mk3 like i did for my first mk3. I don't want to buy a cold side, buy a hot side buy extra nozzles, to make a complete fully loaded kit for the mk3s+.
@@WolframWebers Right? I mean I can get a whole printer (admittedly a low quality one) for like $200… and just equipping my printer with a Revo system is like $100… I get that it’s high quality stuff made in UK… but can a nozzle really be worth that much? I like the fast nozzle change ability and really want to add it to my printer. I’d buy it in a heartbeat at a more affordable price and I want to avoid the china clones. It’s a really smart design that should be optimized for cost effective production. Economies of scale should bring the price down. E3D: Please lower the prices and ship more. 🙏
It's 2024 now but I am still using my E3D Cyclops+ water-cooled hot-end. The color mixing is not thorough and I am wondering whether a different nozzle exists that swirls the colors more thoroughly. I am using the std .4mm nozzle and if I mix black and white it's not an even grey but more of a toothpaste mix.
@@MrBiggs-wu2kf im picky.. i throw away what other take pictures and post as success. its not the hotends problem though. its incorrect set slicer settings. i got one of these at 0.4 as the smaller sizes are so slow. i tested and they deliver about 20-30% higher flow than stock with no faff at the same temps. so more correct would be noob sliced imo
The specific version shown in this video is the original MK3, We would recommend referring to the Prusa docs for your specific variant if anything doesn't quite match up.
@@E3DOnline That's not an MK3 X axit motor mount hten. Belt tensioning ont he MK3, no matter the version, is moving the motor, not a screw on the side that is in the video. It kind of looks like a MK3.9 but the shape is not right. It someone else's design?
i installed mine but now the printer stops heating and says there's a thermal anomaly. also i tried to do a thermal calibration and it stops heating immediately after i start.
Hello! I ordered Revo Six. - What is the correct name for the connectors on the hotend? - Which switching boards are suitable for installation on the print head? - Which 24V power supply should I choose (Heated bed 200x200 mm)?
The process of attaching the spring to the heath core or to the heath sink is random. For example, when replacing a heath core, it's 10 seconds to remove the old one from the heath sink but 2 hours to install the new one, eventually succeeding, I don't know how, after so many contorsions. E3D should demonstrate what's the method to replace a heath core which, in my experience, is almost a consommable.
The mounting of the cable sock is problematic. The sock needs to go on the cables before the zip ties, then it will help stiffening the joint instead if concentrate the flexing to a small area.
If your Prusa lands in our shop in this state, it'll leave with fresh 13mm/5mm textile harnesses on E/X/Y axis and no spiral wrap; that spiral harness wrap will abrade your cables over time - that Einsy enclosure is old style with no clamping yet the X gantry is freshly printed, and that bed wire looks like a saggy diaper with the - only briefly shipped - 8mm "fat" textile harness wrap; another pro-tip: you can use the MK4 style bed clip which is "reinforced" with a length of nylon filament to protect the bed harness. Either way, it's a bit odd to see such an "old school" MK3 with such a mishmash of parts. Cheers and keep on printing. 🗿👍
Hi, Revo six is not only available in bowden version you'll be happy to learn! You can use our Revo configurator to configure it however you like, see here - e3d-online.com/products/revo-hotend-configurator. Thanks, E3D
@@brisance Hi there, E3D supply Prusa with their Nextruder nozzles - e3d-online.com/collections/prusa-mk4-xl-upgrades. Case study - e3d-online.com/blogs/news/case-study-prusa-nozzle-for-xl-mk4 Thanks, E3D
Why are you showing the old outdated cable covering and strain relief, and why does the cable cover end before the cable support on the back of the X carriage? this will concentrate flexing, at that point on the wires. leading to early failure
A quick question if I may, Will this also work with the MK3.5? I have many Mk3s and Mk3s+ units but looking to upgrade to MK3.5 If you have any test units you may be able to send out I will gladly trial one 🙂
