This is the Chevette Guru and this is my channel for the restoration, preservation, and modification of the North American T Body GMs, best known to people as the Chevette and T1000. From stock to wild and all the in-between, ill be going through maintaining these as daily drivers, special procedures, and even modifications that can be done from basic bolt on to full fabrication. Ill be using my personal fleet of them as well as Chevette Owners FB members/friends T bodys for all work on cam. In association with Chevette Owners on Facebook, dont forget to check us out over there too! Thanks for watching
Is it a stock a/c or did you add it? I've got a generic a/c on mine which uses an external evaporator. I'm trying to figure a way to install the evaporator inside the dashboard while keeping the heating working
@leonardoalbuquerque9375 yes this is the Factory AC system, there was a dealer installed system that was much like a vintage air system that was largely under the pass side dash
Hi I was watching your video, not sure how it ended in my feed. Maybe all the rover videos. Anyway since the rover is a Buick block, I’m guessing the oil mods would work on a 3.9 rover. I knew about the draining back down. Again thanks for the video.
@ReyciclismoMTB yes this would pretty much apply to all the Rover V8 as well as any Buick V8 and V6. The later Buick V6 and the later Rover V8 had much improved oiling when they moved to the crank driven oil pump but there's still some help in some of those areas that's needed
@@ReyciclismoMTB it worked out rather well however you'll see in part 3 I still ended up having to take the old camshaft and build a cutter cam to ream the cam bearing slightly but I attribute that mostly to it being a block from 1963 and it's most likely to cam tunnel being off. The old cam bearings that came out showed heavy wear in those particular areas that this one was tight
@@t-bodyperformance770 I actually forgot about plastigauge, the guy that was my mentor was a super tool geek had everything. He even showed me how to use it. He told me it was the most accurate way for a noob to do it right. Because that feel for the drag is tough to learn, takes a while. So we measure it using tools, then check with plastigauge. Yes is slow but you can learn the feel.
@bucknutty952 well that would be true LOL, in this particular case the choke is not hooked up and it is running off of what is in the bowl just wanted to hear it start in the car.
Nothing been touched in two weeks… now you’re doing it Andy style! Tell Rob not to look, he hates seeing leg injuries.! 4 bills a month is stupid money
Wishing I had some time to get back onto my Chevette project. I have a feeling I’ll be re making my oil pan to get the L67 further forward, away from the fire wall a bit more , the 4L60E is going to be fun to get settled in 😅.
I think those are the same headers I used. I cut the collectors off and angled them so they were straight down and not angled in to hug the block. I also had to use a swivel thermostat housing.
Truthfully it's a Buick/Rover V6/V8 unique issue and they all suffered it until both got the crank driven oil pump updates and then they were fine. AMC also suffered this with their V8s and it was much for the exact same reasons the Buick had issues.
Great video I’m putting a 215 into a 60 rambler wagon. I have lots of questions. My 215 has the angled oil filter that’s in the way of my heater hose. What’s the best way to relocate a 90° filter adapter? Or should I do a remote filter with an oil cooler? Keep in mind I’m not racing with this motor however this little wagon is going to be pulling a small 1200 pound camper
There are a number of other Buick oil filter adapters between the V6s and all the 63+ v8s have a few options, you just have to run a later metric oil filter as well. I actually needed not only the metric 90° V6 filter housing but I had to also add a 90° adapter from a 2.8 V6 to clear the core support on this particular car. It worked out rather well plus gave me an extra oil pressure port that was not available previous
Cooler oil is always welcome when your Towing things, an oil cooler may not be a bad idea add mounting a large oil filter adapter would be very easy at that point and add additional oil capacity
There used to be a company that did adapters for the quad but they have since closed up. The parts are now $$$$ and it would be cheaper to make your own these days. You need a converter spacer and a mid plate thick enough to cover both patterns and locate dowels
These engines were way too cool and the Einsteins at GM let it get away so they could downgrade and build crap! The same dregs who killed Smokey Ynick cuz he solved the Low mpg problem with cars!
Thank you very much for this video. am doing a swap on a complete different car but using the chevette stuff. My question is can I use the Pontiac Fierro Caliper on the chevette Rotors?
Yes because the spindles are same you just need the proper bracket for the caliper just know Fiero brakes are not an upgrade in anyway and the 5 lug pattern is odd small 5x100mm pattern. Most want to match an S10 rear axle swaps and use the 5x4.75 pattern up front too and this wouldn't get you there. Just good info most don't think about. I've since gotten parts to do S10 stuff right on the stock spindle too further up in the vids
is the fiero caliper better than chevettecaliper? and which bracket do I need to get if am gonna use the chevette rotor with the fiero caliper? @@t-bodyperformance770
Do you want to know who designed it or who casted it? It was most likely cast in at least 3 different foundry's. Different company's used different combinations of internals to meet their needs. This engine probably has some old origins and got pushed all around the corporation. Personally, I would prefer if it where Japanese over German.
Once Opel left it to the Brazilians they cast their engine there in Brazil. The North American versions were cast here stateside after they figured out what needed modified for the US market. The US 1.6s were sent to Venezuela and marketed as 1.8s as an addition note.
@charlestok that idea was explored but there's no way that it will work without a ton of hakery sadly, and the intake on this Cadillac V8 is part of the blocks stricture when it's bolted down so getting it wrong could cause issues.
It's the cone and cup as a set which is how the proper bearing is sold as the cone typically isn't available separately even though your using the rotors cup (race) it's common application is Ford transmission output shafts and couple machine applications. It's not the easiest to get from parts stores, it's best ordered from a bearing supply to get the correct ones
Oem interchange number looks to be E1FZ7025A (likely the oe Ford number) and the Timkin lists the cone as JLM67042 and cup LM67010. You also need seal number 152563SB-H sometimes the seal number carries TCM in front of that number.
@@t-bodyperformance770. Great info, thanks! I'm not doing this just yet but good to know. I'll consider buying a set of your brackets. It's a simple conversion after you did the hard part.... figuring out the parts needed to do it. 😊
I don't, but for offroad purposes, the distributor gets full vac signal, and the egr gets a timed port if your keeping it. If equipped with an auto, the transmission has its own vac port near the rear heater hose on the intake, and 82+ also have a lockup vac switch on the drivers inner fender that gets full vac. If the car was an AC car there will be a black vac reserve ball also over on the driver inner fender that gets full vac. The rest can go away
ive seen many saturn engines get over 300k miles, the only problem with the s series is the rear trailing arms rust out at the frame and the front subframe on the drivers side will snap in half if you have a coolant leak for too long
Amigo I build my CRX 89 base d15b2 block I put a po3-fi VTEC head but I didn't put VTEC at all I put better spring and retainers a 272 Delta cam regrind header 2 in straight flow exhaust system with small cherry bomb muffler 10 pound flywheel stage 2 clutch kit I adjusted the obdo distributor on the head and then I put a cheap 32/36 Chinese Weber Manuel choke compression around 10.1 to 11.1 compression with y8 head gasket and others old school style tricks and I can tell you she is real peppy fast like hell and sounds like a cobra jjjj old school style she looks tuff and sounds like a cobra make people ask me all the time if I have a V8 jjjj and the way she looks people from young and seniors asking me for pictures etc crazy how people can relate to old school style and sound nothing fancy but she looks different and sounds different from others CCR born in the byouooooo jjjj gd video
The way it sits in the car these will be custom for this application, I've ran through most of the shorty and tight tuck headers and there is something that will interfere somewhere with them. All the Rover stuff does fit these however. I have a set of flanges ready to build them. Been waiting on the starter to get figured out to see what room was left. You should see the crazy headers the old Hooker Headers 3.8 Buick swap kit had. One of the tubes on each side went around the front. Trying to avoid that. The exhaust is the tightest part of every swap in these cars for some reason.
I did on the FB pages, it's pretty easy though, dremal and a grinding stone around the edge of the ID till it fits flat to the back of the spindle. For a hardened metal it cuts easy with a simple grinder bit. I wrap the entire bearing with painters tape before grinding.
In theory, as long as you're not to over torque the fasteners and cause damage, and nothing mechanical was to happen to stress them outside normal operation infinitely. If one was to ever be damaged, you can even repair it easily with the proper tools, so even if one was to pull or wear out and not be trustable, it can be restored.
Be aware with the S10 axles you may also need to turn the hub down in the center to fit the stock wheels. Some aftermarket wheels for 4x4 pattern fit without this because the hub hole is larger, this is how we lucked out with the race car. The chevette wheels will need the hub turned down or removed to fit. As far as the pattern it's just a matter of getting it centered and drilling the holes straight. A jig to hold the axle in a drill press is how I normally do them. Most machine shops setup a drill guide but if your measurements are good you will be fine.
@@t-bodyperformance770 I've got a lathe, I should be able to do this. Could I turn the axle hub center down to make the chevette wheel hub-centric and mark & drill the holes from there? I don't have the parts in front of me yet I'm just trying to plan so I can do this with my HS students. I appreciate the fantastic video and how thorough you were here.
@peterfaggella3120 ya now keep in mind many S10 axles are not cast centered perfectly and the centers are not all as thick so some will inevitably be off-center when you start and might also be thin when done. I have gone as far as making a 57.1mm hub on the lathe, turning the s10 hub flat, then making the new hub bolt on through the center as well when they are really off or just ordering replacement axles with the hub size and bolt pattern on them. Being as this is in class, there's an opportunity to show some lathe stuff anyway!
Also as a note, the torque arm on this is very specific to THIS car and.if you watch the build vids that follow this one you can see why. I also needed to beef this one up after a year of racing on it. Josh Taylor is using my updated design on his LT1 Chevette and is what I'll be using for any that don't need the room like the race car does. You can see that on Chevette Owners or I can message you pics later on FB
@@t-bodyperformance770 I see a lot of wheels that are lug-centric so I would turn the axle hub down just to use the wheel lug holes as a template where to drill for the new studs. If it’s not too sturdy on the hub I wouldn’t worry too much. we’re not hot-rodding this thing other than the stock 2.3 Duratec that’s poking out of the hood.
