Another option is the front mounted oil pump in the timing cover. That came with distributorless ingnition in 1986. The cover and pump to source is a Rover part they used for a few years. Bolts right on and takes a bunch of the turns out. Another point to watch for is the cam bearing oil supply point. The oil comes in at 12 oclock. The lifters push the camshaft down, allowing oil to spill out at the top. What you want to do is grind a groove from the oil eed hole to about 0230 to 0300, as viewed from the front, in the cam bores. This will supply cam oil in a tighter clearance location reducing leakage and providing a better oil film on the cam bearings. The cam bearings are installed rotated 80° to 90° clockwise to line up with the end of the groove.
Truthfully it's a Buick/Rover V6/V8 unique issue and they all suffered it until both got the crank driven oil pump updates and then they were fine. AMC also suffered this with their V8s and it was much for the exact same reasons the Buick had issues.
Great video I’m putting a 215 into a 60 rambler wagon. I have lots of questions. My 215 has the angled oil filter that’s in the way of my heater hose. What’s the best way to relocate a 90° filter adapter? Or should I do a remote filter with an oil cooler? Keep in mind I’m not racing with this motor however this little wagon is going to be pulling a small 1200 pound camper
There are a number of other Buick oil filter adapters between the V6s and all the 63+ v8s have a few options, you just have to run a later metric oil filter as well. I actually needed not only the metric 90° V6 filter housing but I had to also add a 90° adapter from a 2.8 V6 to clear the core support on this particular car. It worked out rather well plus gave me an extra oil pressure port that was not available previous
Cooler oil is always welcome when your Towing things, an oil cooler may not be a bad idea add mounting a large oil filter adapter would be very easy at that point and add additional oil capacity
