I need your help. I just changed the cables and all I get when I push the top button toward me is unlatched and then a noise coming from the rear dual motor that’s behind the rear seats. Before this it was a manual operation because the cables were broken. Is the transmission broken or did I install something wrong?
Jason, is it common to see oil leak coming from the camshaft sensors? I continue having oil leak and I have a gut feeling one or more cam sensors are leaking through the seals. If this happens, can those sensors be removed without having to put the front on service mode?
Wait a minute,,, WAIT A GOD DAMM COTTON PICKING MINUTE ,,, the front rubber gator 🐊 was split and you charger the woman for TWO new front axle why because she didn’t have a clue about cars and you did a bogey job fitting it with some aftermarket parts that doesn’t fit correctly so you made it up as you went along… WTH 🤦♂️ I bet that was an expensive service for that poor woman 😢 a $10 replacement rubber gator …
You are quite free with your opinions. The actual facts are much different. Thank you for trying to knock down my channel with your false accusations and fake news. It was actually quite the opposite. Her husband is an avid race car driver of Porsche’s. We had a lengthy discussion of the benefits of replacing a 23 year old part especially since the replacement part was the only one available in the southeast at that particular time. Thanks for your comment but please keep the accusations to a minimum until you have the entire story. Peace…
There is something with torquing, I couldn’t fathom out, why torquing and then turning? Isn’t turning more torque? For example, instead of torquing to 80ft/lbs and then turning 90’ we say 100ft/lbs? Why the complication?
PPF won’t stop corrosion since it would be impossible to completely wrap the part. I would use a zinc primer but a nice coat of something like WD-40 would be easiest.
I want to do this, but the sanding off those factory stakes scares the hell out of me. One slip and you render the intake runner useless, and getting another might be a huge pain in the neck. Ugh...going to have to do it sooner than later
To be clear… 10qts Castrol GTX 20w50 and a bottle of Lucas ZDDP additive. Once the oil cooler was hot to the touch, drained the hot oil, cleaned the drain plugs, changed the filter and added back 11qts Driven BR 20w50. I use the driven assembly grease also to keep all of the additive packages working together. The Castrol is just a cheap oil with high zinc for the initial break-in. To me, BR is overkill for that first cycle. Way too expensive to recycle with less than 60 minutes of use.
There are at least 2 more bolts to address. Left the plastic engine cover and feel the 2nd one under the PCV valve junction and another on the driver side. They will feel greasy and one light tap the head will fall out.
