We've been on youtube since 2013 ish sharing our hodgepodge of interests.
Then we became parents in 2016. We were already rethinking corporate life at the time, and then the birth of our daughter gave us the motivation to jump - we've been self-employed ever since.
We went 100% virtual in early 2020 with Sarah's sewing, sarahclassicsewing.com
Fast-forward to 2022, we feel like we're emerging on the other side of parenthood as our final baby is about 10 months old now and our older three are all in school... so, we're finally returning to the youtubes with fresh content!! 🎉🎉🎉
And now Charley is finally ready to launch his new business - buckyourbronco.com. His first love was a 78 bronco, so he was grinning from ear to ear when Ford announced they were bringing back the bronco. The mechanical engineer in him was itching to design things for it.
We're content where we are now, but one day, we'll build our dream mountain home... climbing towards that dream a little bit everyday!
lol I have that same air compressor and I also dropped it!! 😂 I got lucky that I installed a pull up bar in my garage that was really strong and was able to ratchet it upright. Didn’t have the tractor but man I feel sorry for those who do drop those top heavy IR compressors
I'm from south ga. I been sharpening for 25 more years I sharpen all name brand blade what you said in your vedo is correct. But I cN speak for these others guys just my self, I was raised in a saw.mill world ..I know about wood and what the blade suppose to do and how. All I'm saying is you haven't tried my work yet, yes I've got ahold of some crazy bands these so call bandsaw sharpeners do
Loaded on sideways yrs ago, just let it sit few days, has worked fine 34 yrs or drain it. I tried pulling it up a ramp, after 2 times with hurt feelings i sats and thoughts how i got it myself yrs ago... on its side in my truck. Single stage if it matters
Have you tried cutting maybe 1/2 to 1 inch on the return? (The wrong Way) and let it pull itself, while you are controlling the feed. Works for me and you save some work.
Good unbaised description. I have not seen them in real life, but they seems a little flimsy. The idea of a swingmill are good for small dimensions building timber but some homebuild looks nicer. I have an old homebuild but would like to put a bandsaw on the same so you get the best of both systems.
I just received, or I should say picked up my LT 50 hydraulic with the Accu-Set ll system. I played with it today and that was the most difficult piece. I just watched your tutorial and it is by far the best I’ve seen so far. Thank you!!!!
The Lucas mill has scales that take into account the kerf of the blade on both the end frames and the powerhead. Sounds like you have a lot to learn about this mill.
When a man looks at his bare wrist and tells you it's about 8:20 you can 1) don't trust anything else that man says. or 2) assume he has a much cooler wristwatch than you. Normally I'd take option 1, but this time I'm going with door #2. How's the battery life on that Roleks?
I had a Peterson mill WPF 10. I had nothing but problems with the mill got a woodland mills 30” cut that was so much better. Now I have a LT40 hyd which is so much better than both.
First off, comparing a Lucas mill to fully hydraulic bandsaw mill is an apples to oranges comparison. 1) My Lucas mill is very accurate on it's cutting dimensions. It has scales on both vertical posts and a scale on the carriage. If I want 2", I get exactly 2" just like reading a tape measure. I'm really lost how your mill could not have scales. 2) Yes, the mill is going to move when the rails are almost 5 feet of the ground and you push it with your shoulder without the center post installed. I've never had a cut affected by the type of movement that you show. When the blade is in the cut, it is nearly impossible for it to be pushed off unless you purposely run into the rails like a linebacker. 3) If your cuts are not lining up and you have to make the same cut twice, you have a definite problem with your blade and/or basic alignment of the carriage. Your blade is too dull or your tension is off on the blade. Try a new blade or send it to a saw doctor to be checked out. 4) I don't see the wear surfaces as a problem more than any other machine. The carriage rollers are nylon and won't eat into the frame. They are easily replaceable. The carriage lock is made from pvc and costs $1.00 to replace. The posts are metal on metal but you are winding them up or down by hand at extremely slow speed and only once every few minutes. That would take 15-20 years of use to cause any noticeable problems. A light coating of grease or silicone spray on the posts once a month is all you need.
I have the scales but that’s my point you have to line it up like a tape measure…even 150 year old circle mills would have “clicks” (that’s where the quarter system came from), 5/4 was 5 clicks. It’s all doable it’s just not near as efficient and cheap
There is a sidewinder that you could add. When I bought my used Lucas the mill was in a lean-to with the rail supports fastened to the back wall to reduce the movement of a shoulder bump
What year was your mill manufactured? I suspect many of the issues you pointed out have been fixed on new models. I know most swing blade sawmills have repetitive sizing guides to ensure consistent board dimensions. As you know there are other manufactures of swing blade sawmills (Peterson being the most notable), I would contact them and see if there is anyone in you area has an ATS or the WPF model that you can look at. There you'll see what you're missing quality wise compared to the Lucas.
What will you do with your pine slabs? Even kiln dried, planed and sanded. We can hardly give them away in my neck of the woods. Do You actually have a market for this stuff?
Sharpening the chain on the mill works but it is really awkward to do since the bar is horizontal. After the 1st time with a file, I bought an Oregon electric sharpener and haven't looked back. I can swap out a chain in 3-4 minutes, 2 minutes if I have help. It is much faster and easier to swap the chain instead of hand filing on the bar. I do portable milling and this way my customers aren't paying me to sharpen chains while I'm on site. The electric sharpener also allows me to keep the left and right cutters equal otherwise the chain will want to wander off a little.
I am an Australian builder carpenter and woodworker I am 80 years old to Lucas mill works great on Australian hardwood how treasure for a five times heavier than your Douglas fir and they are fantastic in Australia where you can cut housing material which is two by sixes 2 by fours and two by threes
I don't want to come across as a hater, because I'm not, but as someone that has ran a LT40 hard for the the last eight years, I find all if these new youtube videos of sawmill how tos and "tricks" and "tips" for running a mill from people who are obviously new to the game, a little old. This is not just directed at you. This is for all the people who recently went and bought a sawmill and now think they are sawyers, who make youtube videos. Good for you for making a video, but look, you are running that mill with a big diesel engine, around half the speed you should be running it. Your setup is inefficient and slow! You are walking probably twice as much as you need to and the site organization is a mess. And what is all the nonsense about different blade lubes? Look, I run just straight water, maybe some dawn. Here is a pro tip for you. If it's cold enough for the water to freeze then it's probably cold enough to saw without lube. Thant's right, once the logs are froze you don't need to run lube in the winter. Work on your site organization and flow, it will be more efficient and safer. Good luck.
TBH, this mill produces only one board with 2 cuts. It doesn't look any faster than a bandsaw, which with the same 2 cuts, can produce multiple boards. 😮
Without her or anyone who makes these product’s, you wouldn’t be sitting in your home without it falling apart! Cold hands or not, she’s what we call…an essential worker!!!👍
