Hi, I'm Andy, (Hello). Started life as a mechanic, self-taught welder &…… pretty much everything to be fair. To my current passion METAL!!! I have two channels Videos Travels & this War Grade, odd name! during WW2 quite a few manufacturers used to mark their products with “war grade” this was because it was simply the best they were able to manufacture under the given circumstances. So I adopted this ethos & name. The channel itself has all sorts of interesting things, from casting, machining, welding and anything in between that I feel fits in here I beg you! subscribe/follow me (us) on Facebook/RU-vid (or all of them). YT: ru-vid.com YT: www.youtube.com/@videostravels FB: facebook.com/WarGrade FB: facebook.com/VideosTravels 😉Please do not repurpose or re-edit my videos for your own personal gratification! or commercial gain. If you would like to inquire about licensing footage please get In touch
Personally I think it is just more handy, power wise, I don't think there is much in it, However it depends on what you will be using it for, if it's the same type of job every time I'd use corded as the tool is set up for the same job all the time, I very much use it for different things in different places. Sure the corded version will just keep on going, but overall (IMHO) I prefer the cordless for the things I do.
HI, I am sorry to say I have long parted with this tool. However from what I remember, there is a blade tension screw on the top. deadjust so the blade becomes slack and remove the blade.
@@themotorcyclingclub i managed to get the blade on mine today however its cutting plastic then jams and stops from force would this have something to do with the top adjuster what way would i go to tension the blade more clockwise or anticlockwise? thanks so much for the advice and help
Hi, to be honest this was over a year ago now & I dont have the unit anymore to check for you. I was away on holiday, so tools & equipment were limited, so I used what I could get hold of. What I would say is the 60mm ones I used were too long & If you can find them use countersink head. But the key thing to remember is, it is far easier to make something shorter than it is longer!!!
I just bought the parkside rotary tool and I must say it's better than dremel. It doesn't vibrate like dremel, runs much more quietly than the dremel and comes with useful accessories. It's my first choice to use and the dremel wiil be the backup
Hi, I honestly can not remember, you can get bearings quite cheap & you can probably work out roughly what size they should be from the track, I think they were imperial.
@@erpkid excellent news, great chuck, only thing is you can not hold short stock. but really good for bolts and the like as there's next to no damage on the threads.
I know nothing about machining but as a knife maker I'm always looking for things at the scrapyard that might make certain things easier. I picked up a rotary table there yesterday for five bucks. I came to youtube seeking the most basic instruction and in a second find this, which happens to look exactly like my table! I'd found nothing even close anywhere else, mine is labeled however. The tag says NEWS/Yuasa International Inc/New York N.Y./Made in Japan ! Following!
For personal use, always buy the best tools after you made your homework, yeah Dremel it is the best choice if you have a bit of respect for you. But if you have friends that ask for tools and you find hard to refuse, then buy also one Parkside for them, you already are the best friend so, keep about your tools because others will not, if they always ask ypu about tools...
Lidl sells this for 25 euros and a Dremel with equivalent set of accessories costs 130 euros. I'm sure the Parkside isn't as good but I doubt that the Dremel is 10x better either.
None of those were acceptable. Top quality ER collets are within 0.0002”. Good, average quality collets are within 0.0005”. Buy a quality collet chuck. I bought a Bison ER-40 to R-8 and it’s very accurate. But really, when buying collets you want the highest accuracy possible. There’s no other point, really. If you can’t afford a really good set, don’t buy one. Instead, buy the few sizes you know you will use all the time from a high quality maker, and then, over time, buy others as you need them. I only use German Techniks collets. Their dealers here in the USA, on eBay, sell them for around $19 to $24. That’s pretty inexpensive. Sets cost a lot more, of course. Several hundred dollars. I’m sure you guys can convert to pounds at about a 1.26 ratio. These are guaranteed to be within 0.0002” as I mentioned - and they are. The Bison chuck is within about 0.0002” as well. My mill runout is about the same. If you’re lucky, these will cancel out, or if you’re unlucky, will be additive. But it’s important to have very little runout. Otherwise slots will be too wide by double the runout. But it’s worse for small bits. The percentage of error is larger the smaller the diameter. But again, worse, is the problem of breaking small bits from this as you overcome the maximum chip load due to that large runout and the bits snap off.
Hi You make some very valid points there. However not everyone can afford a high end holder & that is the expensive bit. What I will add is get the best holder you can afford & (very good advice here) as you say get the collets you need rather than a set, for sure I have not used 70% of the set. For me accuracy is limited to my machine, my capability (this could of course improve with better equipment) and what I am working on & that is the key, I really never need high tolerance.
@@WarGrade the way I look at these things is that people don’t have to get something right away. They can save up for it. There is no way to know if one of these unknown brands, or no brand holders, are going to be a total loss, which some are. Then what? You’ve thrown that money away.
The DREMEL quality tends to deteriorate. The stand I bought separately is of the worst possible quality! Their Customer Service here in Brussels is non-existant even if you have an employee on the line, he is utterly useless.
As with any named brand, it seems the bigger they get the less you get for your money, a few might still try and deliver a quality item, but for the most the profit becomes the sole goal. trading off the name is the game, I know & have seen it first hand. I am not saying Parkside are the best, it's just you can afford to replace it 3 or 4 times compared to the once of a name brand & thats the clincher.
Hi, very helpful video, thanks. did you ever manage to sort the sizing issue? Also, I couldn’t see from the video, but is this the 100cm fitting and if so, is it actually 100cm? I’m hoping to hack one into a 90cm unit because a previous magic corner was actually only 85cm wide. Thanks,
Hi Lize The door is 400 wide, the cabinet 500 deep by 770 wide. Can I recommend who ever is behind you has something to eat, they need fattening up : )
I don't know if you made a sequel to this video as of dec. -13 -2023. I have the same mill as you have and have bought a let's say a slightly better set of collet and found better results so better quality does result in better accuracy. One of way to even better result is correct tightening of the nut using a bearing nut and the correct torque on the nut. It does rewards you with better accuracy.
Hi thanks for the reply. Yes quality yields better results for sure. As for a second, yes , well it's more a little mini series leading up to more testes, here are the links: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L_7t8YHXbyA.htmlsi=5H3tVJ-VG7sbEp9o ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DwoQN0pEAds.htmlsi=-WWhAnpJ0Tz5gzUN ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ta8ltcj1KKw.htmlsi=TvAPsihTGTmz4FjP ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jokQ61Z9rds.htmlsi=7AANDU3HVWvucC_p
Hi Karmele Take in a plan of your kitchen wall to to wall i.e. the plan of the room & it's walls, I'd also add to that how your work tops are laid out in the room. If you are wanting to add this feature to your existing kitchen, then you will need to measure the door sizes and add them to you plan & what way the doors open. ONE thing to be aware of as you might see in one of my following videos, is B&Q made a mistake in design of this kitchen, and there was not enough room for the corner cupboard to open for it to with draw the second basket! I had to modify it. So I'd check the distance between your cabinets and the distance the unit needs to open, to fully work (this kitchen was basically too narrow). there is often a unit on display in B&Q. Also there are may other companies who do these. I'd also take in some photos of the room and it's current layout.
How fizzy is your sparkling water? Do you have a picture or video anywhere showing a glass filled? Ours was recently installed and I've been back and forth with them about the sparkling water not being very fizzy. Tried changing gas, they sent a new head for the gas canister and it got a bit better, but still not (in my opinion) fizzy. Interested to know if there really is something wrong or my expectation is just not correct.
It's not like a bottle of fizz you get from the shop or a soda stream. I am sure it only works on low pressure, you only have to look at the pipe from the bottle regulator to see that, but the wife loves fizzy water and she likes it just as much as the sparkling water from the shops! However I will say we only use brinks bottles, with sealed tops so they don't sit there bubbling away and loosing there fizz, so perhaps that helps.
yYes, but it's one of those things where It's done between other projects, so if you dont mind waiting for it, that's fine. To give you some Idea this series of videos on this lamp post was filmed over 6 months over all. Thats not how long it took to do the job just how long the whole project lasted. So in short, yes if you have no real time frame to deal with.
Thank u for this! Im american n trying to mount a small chandelier from a hook andd to mount that hook from a joist. But i found watch the actual light installation so cool. So helpful!
Great job. I am a chemical engineer by education but recently I decided I want to do what I love. I am starting a garage that specializes in Pre WWI race cars and and sports cars equipped with distributors and/or magnetos. welding/fabrication/casting and a machine shop is what I am building so That I am able to make any parts and repair anything that may still be there. I have already soldered and brazed lots of pieces.
Thanks for video. I have an old live center that is stuck. It’s on my to do list to see if I can salvage it. Your video will help. By the way, I too do the best I can with what I have. 👍
Really, if you’re going to work in something, you should begin with obtaining at least the minimum of proper tools. It makes me nervous to see what looks like potato’s on the same bench you’re working on a center.
Thats fine if you don't have to share space with others & can afford better facilities or equipment. Hence the rebuilding of the centers rather than purchase new. Besides I dont use potatoes as tools 😅😀😃😄 But thankyou for your concerns, as per the War Grade ethos, I try my best with what I have.
I have come to the conclusion that the collet nut is the culprit as it is quite slack in the threads and this will allow the nut to pull the collet out of true as it is tightened.......this is caused by the force of the nut spanner being applied to one side of the nut, which is normal as the spanner is only used with one hand, and they don't make collet chuck spanners with two sides...... but the one side tightening will cause the nut to deflect to one side and as it impacts the collet on the front taper it will cause the collet to deflect too.......as little as .02mm will cause a runout that can be a pain if it's for CNC applications but not so much for manual milling........the collet can be a very closely fit in the collet chuck body and run true, but the nut is quite slack and it will deflect the collet as it tightens.
I cannot remember if i mentioned it in the video or somewhere else, but I have two other nuts and there all the same. Besides tbere is runout in the collet body as shown in the video
The run out in the collet body is one factor you can only change by regrinding it, otherwise ALL collets will run out..........that is a task probably more costly than buying a new chuck.@@WarGrade
