Lol ,our prop is at stallings right now getting IRAN. I ran it down to him last Friday. Had red grease come out all over windshield and cowling. Teflon rings blew. Stallings is great. Hope to get it back Wednesday and get it zip tied back, jk, on the 6/260!!! It's been an $$$ couple months with annual now the prop! Great video and thanks!
Slow down dude, you're jumping all over the place. Stretch out the the filter pleats and set weights on their ends so that they dont accordion in again. Then shine a good light on the stretched out pleats checking for non ferrous metals and then run a good size magnet along them checking for ferrous metal.
Hello, I have been enjoying your videos. You mention a service guide for safetying the pump nuts. Do you have a number for the guide....I can't locate one.
Something I'm still struggling to learn is how to take my time and do it right. I would have definitely used German torque on those screws. Then I would've gotten eager to finish the project and just filled the tank all the way up without checking the indication periodically. This video is motivation to me to slow down
Not sure what you are trying to say re: power to a magneto at the intro. Magnetos are self-powered by magnetic lines of flux not external battery power. The P-lead grounds and turns them OFF when key is OFF. When key is ON the P-lead is ungrounded (floating), not powered. I presume one needs to somehow switch this lead over to a power switch instead of a normal aircraft keyswitch that is designed for magneto grounding.
First, this is not a magneto, but a Surefly Ignition Module (SIM). It produces a high voltage spark by boosting 14V (or 28V) power tapped directly from the hot battery bus. It does not have a rotor, primary and secondary coil windings or points like a magneto. It uses solid state electronics to determine crankshaft angle and deliver a hotter spark at a variable ignition timing. While the 28V units had some issues early on (about 5 years ago) those issues have been resolved. What data do you have to prove that this FAA approved appliance (via STC) has a higher failure rate than the magnetos it replaces?
Ugh. I have this engine and there are 2 spray patterns on the top of the cowl. ONe near the front and one near the middle pilot side. Oil seeping out of the left piano hinge and oil door. It gets up on the windshield pretty easily in flight. Unfortunately, my engine is black so it is hard to see the origin. I wish they would have painted these engines white. I have a brand new prop governor so maybe something not seated when installed.
I just wonder if the inside of the cylinders were re-surfaced enough to get rid of the pitting, if it would be able to make a seal and not leak. I ran into that with Cleveland master cylinders, the inside bores were so worn, even new O rings wouldn't stop the leaking. I'd be hard pressed to put a cylinder back in service with that much pitting inside it.
thanks for the video. I think this process is ok for owner maintenance too! You mentioned 3.5 inch. is that on all three wheels or only nose? what is the spec for mains? thanks!
Thanks for this video! I actually used your excellent explanation and demonstration to adjust the externally adjustable oil relief valve on my 1939 Lea-Francis Super Sports 1.6 litre automobile engine. 😄
