My bad! I also wanted to thank you for sharing such an awesome video. I was glued to it and I’m still shaking my head at the cheap little plastic garbage Furrion uses in this fridge. No wonder so many end up in the garbage heap. Again, bravo for sharing your experience!
Ugh! These refrigerators are going to send me to the bar! Lol! We are on our 3rd. First one found completely dead by the independent inspector. Dealer was quick to replace to close the deal. Second one lasted about 2 months with very little use. Defrost cycle would keep the compressor off way too long so fridge temps would become way too high. Third one is now also getting wonky with the temp getting too high in fridge again, but I can hear the compressor running much more often, so thinking we have the same issue as you. What do you think of drilling some small holes in that little gate/door to allow the freezer air to vet into the fridge section? I’m talking just a few tiny ones , as an experiment to see how many are needed to keep the fridge temp consistent?
@@lindaschulz3934 Interesting thought about putting some holes in that little door. Unfortunately, I got rid of the old unit so I can’t try that. The defrost cycle does seem to be an issue even on my new fridge. I need to do another video where I used two very accurate remote digital thermometers and logged the temps for a two week period. You can clearly see the defrost cycle and what it does to both the freezer and refrigerator temps. When my new fridge dies, I will be looking at Norcold as a replacement.
I have the reese elite airborne sidewinder with b&w companion hitch. I'm on my 2nd airborne sidewinder swapped them out on 7 different trailers over the years. I know it's not following their guidelines but the first thing I do with those king pins is tear them apart clean the thoroughly of all the lithium grease and lubricate them using reese Teflon ball hitch lube then I torque the 4 turrett bolts to 35 ft lbs using blue loctite. Jerking motion in rotation is non existent . Nice and smooth. I have a 303rls currently and have the bag adjustment screws all the way front toward the truck and have found for me that 50 to 60 psi works best for the smoothest ride with my trailer. It's alot of trial and error to get the best ride and a couple psi up or down makes a big difference in ride quality
So how did you unbolt the fridge from the slide out of the 303 rls I have the same rv my fridge is crooked in the cabinet and the fridge side door is rubbing the wooden trim how to you remove the fridge so i can straighten it. thanks
@@kenschauble At the bottom of the refrigerator is a board that is screwed to the floor, two of the screws go through the bottom hinges. Remove that board and the short board above the refrigerator. I also removed the trim piece that extends the length of the slide. I slid it out using two furniture dollies. What I found is that the microwave outlet was keeping the refrigerator from sitting straight in the hole.
Take a look at my other video , Refrigerator Safety Issues, and you will see why it is sitting crooked. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oc-HYQ0QwCQ.htmlsi=_bCFV8xvHvPCa5lY
Great video! I planned to buy an external display, but looks like I could actually use my iPad in my truck the way you did if the signal is strong enough.
Not even a little bit surprised at how poorly this is constructed and assembled. Our 2022 337RLS is the flimsiest, most poorly constructed “thing” of any type I have ever purchased. 2 years of doing our own PDI basically and reinforcing and re-screwing and sealing and gluing things I’m almost not ashamed to travel with it now.
My 2022 337 RLS isn’t wired anything like yours. I see my solar prep wires- 2 lines for the panels from the roof and 2 lines for a charge controller. I see a single red wire marked “Solar Inv. line” which looks like just an extension of the charge controller line. Is it possible that I have solar prep but not inverter prep? That doesn’t make any sense to me.
@@supporterofsanity You most likely have an early build 2022 with an absorption style refrigerator. Mine was built in November 2021 with the 12v refrigerator - hence the need for solar. My brother in-law has an earlier 2022 Reflection 280RL with absorption fridge, solar prep and no inverter prep.
I have the same fridge in a Grand Design 260RD. The fridge is located on the slide. I have been experiencing the same issues you mentioned in your video. I am also wondering if the temperature outside plays a role in the cooling process. I was reading through the refrigerator manual and I believe it said that the food should already be cold before putting it in the refrigerator. Wondering if the freezer has to get to the specified temp before the door on the refrigerator will open and allow the refrigerator to cool. Please let us know on the progress or what you find out. Thank you
I have done a lot of testing with both my defective refrigerator (after I pulled it out) and the new one I just installed. Ambient temperature inside the RV does play a roll in cooling. Mine seems to have trouble keeping up if the temp inside the RV goes above 80. Yes, adding food that is already cool helps significantly. Unfortunately, that isn’t always an option. Before I installed the new refrigerator, I would keep two gallon water jugs (about half full) and rotate them between the refrigerator and freezer. I found that helped significantly since the freezer has no problem staying cold. Yes, the freezer has to drop to a certain temperature before the door will open and start cooling the refrigerator. I did find that the automatic defrost in the freezer plays a big role in refrigerator cooling. One of the 40a fuses controls the defrost circuit. When I remove that (simulate a blown fuse) it doesn’t take long before the cooling coils freeze up and prevent the fan from pulling cool air across the coils. When that happens, the freezer seems to stay cool, but the refrigerator does not. In the end, even the brand new refrigerator seems to struggle to keep the refrigerator compartment temperature consistent. My recommendation would be to install LiFePo4 batteries because they operate at a higher base voltage and don’t have such a drastic voltage drop over the charge cycle. Also, never, ever allow this refrigerator to run on low voltage. That seems to be the number one killer of these refrigerators. I am hoping to get a couple more videos out soon.
Frigidaire LFTR1835VF 18.3 CF top freezer. It's about 2 inches too deep but it clears the island when the slide is in. I'll attach a piece of plywood to make a slightly larger floor. WOW, so much more space.
Well I did feel the fan a little. Worked with lippert thus morning and the said they would give me 30 percent off a new one. Unrepairable. Not defrosting. No parts to be gotten. I just finished. Installing a residential. Know anyone that might need some parts before it gets junked?
Given the poor track record of these refrigerators, anything less than a free replacement would be paying too much in my opinion. Since it isn’t defrosting, did you happen to check the fuses? I salvaged a few parts out of my old one and will be hauling the dead carcass off to the dump soon. What residential refrigerator did you go with?
My first 16 ft fridge quit while under warranty. Neither side cooled. They shipped me a brand new fridge and it is now less than a year old and freezer works and fridge is 54 degrees. I'm trying a hard reset now but not getting my hopes up. Do you think it might be possible to prop the airflow door open slightly and get satisfactory temps? If this one is garbage I'll not put in a third one. I love the 12v and when it works, it's works well but it's looking like time to get a residential.
That door is either fully open or fully closed. I think the refrigerator would get way too cold if it stayed partially open. Further testing (after I made this video) revealed a couple of possibilities for a cold freezer and a warm refrigerator. The door not opening or opening too late, but also a freezer that isn’t defrosting. One of the 40a fuses is for the automatic defrost. When I pulled that fuse, the coils would build up with frost to the point that air wouldn’t pass through resulting in a warmer refrigerator. Voltage is also critical. I found that maintaining a voltage above 12.5 at the refrigerator seemed to help significantly. Any lower than that and the recovery time seemed to go way up. Under the best of conditions, I think that refrigerator struggles to maintain a safe temperature in the refrigerator compartment. I am working on a video of the replacement refrigerator where I am monitoring temps closely and charting them. Hopefully I can get that out soon.
I took the part down in the fridge side that contains the door. I feel the coolness from the freezer but it doesn't seem like the fan is running. I too have my door open switches taped to fool it. Thoughts?
@@jeffchambliss2625 Do you feel the fan on the freezer side? The fan only runs when the compressor is running, so it won’t run if/when it is going through a defrost cycle. If either door is opened, it takes 10-15 seconds before the fan turns back on. Sometimes, you have to open and close the door - that is why some parts of my video have the tape and some don’t. During my testing, I also had the fan not come on until I did a hard reset.
I guess I did forget to show that on the freezer side. You have to pull all the bins and shelves out. There is one screw in the bottom panel that has to come out. Starting at the bottom, look for arrows that are moulded into the plastic cover (use your fingers to feel them because they are almost impossible to see). There is a plastic tab behind each arrow. I took a thin piece of metal and formed it so I could slide it in and help release the tabs. I did find that you can just pull on the panel and it will release, but there is a good chance that the tabs will break. On the refrigerator side, I did show the little latch at the bottom. Once you get that released, the cover will slide down and release at the top. If you pause the video at about 5:18 you can see the arrows I am talking about (look carefully above my ring finger). You should then be able to spot the tabs on the backside of that panel. At 5:18 you will also see that the tab closest to the duct going to the refrigerator is bent back.
Awesome review,, Thanks..im thinking same as you..smooth is better..also looking at a trailer saver TSL3 for fifth wheel..Is it rough with the companion?
I'm with you 100 percent. I have the B&W Companion Slider hooked into my Gooseball mount and like it other than having to get out to move slider back. Always looking at other options. But other than having to deal with the wedge each time hooking it up seems to be a great setup. Also my pin box is the lippert Roto flex that works pretty well too. Going to suggest this setup to a friend that needs a setup.
I have this exact set-up with my 2017 RAM 3500 SRW 6'4" bed with Ram Boxes. Both Reese & etrailer worked with me to come to this solution for towing my 2018 39 foot Montana 5th wheel. Back then, I got the Reese 19K Sidewinder using the Reese 20K 5th wheel hitch. My towing experience has been solid and confident with no slipping of the rear wheels as some have mentioned, but I am a very cautious driver when towing a big 5th wheel, especially on wet surfaces The only issue I have had is while uncoupling the 5th wheel from my truck. It can be difficult to release the hitch's pull bar handle at times unless truck & trailer are perfectly aligned because the wedge block is very tight. A couple simple taps on the handle with a rubber mallet, and it slides right out. I love this set-up and would recommend it. Great video.
Great video and really helped me. I also have a GD but it came without the inverter prep. Wondering if you could provide me with the Wfco control board model #, I might change out my panel for one like your. I really only want the inverter for my frig when I'm traveling. Any help would be great. Curt
Sorry it took so long to get back from you. My Reflection was built with a Progressive Dynamics PD55K100 50 amp panel. I don’t know how they compare in size.
Great video! It just occurred to us - We recently upgraded to lithium batteries - 1st 2 were 100Ah, set in parallel and we used 2 AWG to connect each together - but we've sent them back and are awaiting the arrival of our 2 230Ah batteries. I'm thinking, our 2 AWG cable is not large enough - from what I can tell, we need 4/0 cable to connect them - Would you agree this correct? Also, it occurred to me that maybe our shunt/battery monitor will now not handle this large battery bank - we plan on following your parts list 100% when it's time to install our inverter. :) Our shunt is the stock Furrion that came with our 2023 GD 337RLS - if we need the larger shunt, we'll get the Renogy 500 AMP Battery Monitor with Shunt. Thanks for you help. This may not be the last you hear from me lol. I may even reach out on the GD forum if that's okay. (I did just reach out to Lippert and their highest shunt handles 350, so that answers 1 question - off to order)
When I installed the LiTime 230ah batteries in parallel, I did upgrade the cables from the batteries to the bus bars to 4/0 welding cable. From the bus bars to the inverter is still 3/0. I installed a 250a terminal fuse on each battery and upgraded the fuse to the inverter to a slow blow 300a fuse. I don’t know about the Furrion shunt, but they are all pretty generic and can handle up to 500ah battery banks. You can check by adjusting the setting on the panel.
Great video. We plan on doing what you’re showing with the ATS when we get our inverter. With your 303, doesn’t it say the inverter prep is there for a 2000w inverter? I think in your next video you use a 3000w inverter which is what we were thinking of doing until I read in the manual for our 337RLS that 2000 is all that should be there?? Now we may just do 2200 in hopes that it powers our microwave. We will have 2 - 230Ah 12v batteries. Thanks
If yours is like mine, the inverter prep circuit runs off two 30amp circuit breakers. Since 30 amps @ 125 volts equals 3,750 watts, the wiring is capable of handling anything a 3,000 watt inverter can throw at it. I think you might be disappointed with anything less than 3k. I just finally installed my batteries. I went with two 230ah plus LiTime batteries. Since my inverter could potentially draw 250 amps continuous - 3000 watts / 12v = 250 amps. Since there is some power loss in the conversion, and the potential for the peak amperage to top 300 amps surge, I wanted to have at least 400 amps of battery power readily available. The LiTime 230ah plus have a 200 amp BMS. Connected in parallel, both batteries will give me 400 amps continuous.
@@MyGrandDesignReflection303RLS Thanks so much! When I saw you could do it I just knew we could. My husband really liked how explanatory your videos are.
@@MyGrandDesignReflection303RLS That is also why we are returning our 100Ah LiTime batteries and bought their 2 - 230Ah batteries. 200a BMS in each versus 100a BMS’s. Just made the 30 day window for the return. Learning a lot in the last 4 weeks!
This is an amazing video! Thank you for taking time to put this together. I have the identical setup (Reflection 303RLS with RAM that has ramboxes). I purchased the Elite with the airbag. One thing I am noticing is significant "bucking/slamming" when going over pavement that has "whoops" in it, or bumps. It feels like the hitch is "bottoming out". Airbag is at 70lbs. Have you experienced this in your tests? It pulls fine when on fairly even pavement, but when I start to hit those waves in the road, it "slams down". I have airbags in my RAM as well. Did you happen to feel any of that when you went back to the regular one?
I did play with the air pressure on the Elite and found that I preferred to tow with a higher pressure. I think what you are feeling is actually the opposite of bottoming out, but rather hitting the stop at full extension. There is a bridge on Interstate 5 just north of Sacramento Ca. that will beat a 5th wheel to death. I did discover that the Elite seemed to make the problem worse as a rhythm developed due to the expansion joints in the bridge. The Elite is good at dampening smaller jerks and bumps - very smooth on a good road, but didn’t seem to handle the bigger bumps as well. As I said in the video, I actually prefer the 20k hitch because there is much less movement at the pin.
I actually added a second converter that was lithium compatible. The original converter stays off at the circuit breaker - just for backup in case the new one dies.
Thank you very much for the informative video on installing an inverter. One question I have is what size 12v cables did you use to connect the battery to the inverter? Thx.
I used a very high quality 3/0 welding cable. Depending on the length of the run, 4/0 may be appropriate. Always check with the cable manufacturer to see what their cable is rated for. A 3k inverter has the potential to draw up to 400 amps for short periods of time.
Did Grand Design cover the glass replacement under warranty? I had a moveable panel break about a year ago, which I replaced and a fixed panel break last week. Both times I had panels break the trailer was parked and leveled. Great video, thanks for posting your process.
I have had numerous conversations with Grand Design Customer Service and my local authorized repair facility to no avail. Did the shower glass shatter within one year of you purchasing the trailer or after? Thanks.
Another great video, thank you. Did you create that wiring schematic of the DC bus bar? It’s awesome. I’m watching the converter charger test video now. Are you planning on creating more videos?
Thanks. I plan on doing more videos, unfortunately the 5th wheel has been in the shop with some issues with the roof and slide. The original bus bar schematic was already done, I just tried to interpret it for someone who had questions.
If you pause the video on the screen that shows all the individual components and wiring diagram, the yellow boxes represent the fuses. When I get around to upgrading the batteries, the battery fuse and inverter fuse will be larger.
Someone needs to do a video of how dangerous these types of hitches really are on the stability of the truck in the rear. I have the turning point hitch and it has tried to push the rear end of the truck out from under the trailer sliding the tires. It acts like a standard bumper pull TT. It is especially dangerous when on a wet or icy road. I am going to go back to a standard slider hitch. More work but I felt 100X safer. These are a good idea but very unsafe in reality.
I have the old sidewinder 16K and it is so jerky that I have had it slide the rear wheels of the truck sideways when encountering a curve on wet pavement. The 45 ft-Lbs of torque on 4 bolts preloads the wear plates to 17280 lbs. No wonder it is hard to turn even when lubricated.
Great point!!! The law of physics at work. I had a situation of sliding sideways once even with the regular 5th wheel hitch and it was a very unpleasant feeling to say the least. It was in the late season with a little slush in a driveway apron of an RV dealer but that situation would definitely have been much worse with this setup. May have to rethink this.
The dealers should hire you. Either the sales people have no idea on how to work these cameras or they don’t want be bothered since its a crappy camera.
Great team work guys! Now I need to tweak upper screen door hinge,it sags hitting strike plate a smidge.And file ramp on screen catch.Yah’ll made it too easy for me lol😊
You will need some sort of switch, either manual or automatic unless your plan is to only power the outlets by inverter. The way the circuit is designed, power coming from the panel goes to one side of the switch. Power from the inverter goes to the other. When plugged into shore power, AC flows from the panel, through the switch, and back to the outlets via the panel. When you are not plugged into shore power, the battery powers the inverter which in turn sends AC to the switch, and back to the panel. A second option would be to not use the inverter prep and plug your shore power connection directly into the inverter. Many people do it this way. Just be careful about overloading the inverter.
Thank you for getting back to me. I’m just kind of confused with the orange wire, when you cut it there is a hot side and a neutral side ,There are two plug-ins on my inverter How do I hook those wires up and use an inverter with two plug-ins? Wear does the hot wire side and the other side go? I have a Renogy 2000w what with a manual remote controls on an off switch. Thank you.
@@jimdel9647 It isn’t that simple. Ishtar now the orange wire simply loops back to the panel. When you cut it, there will not be any AC going back to power the outlets. An automatic transfer switch provides a path for that AC to get back to the panel, while also adding an optional path from the inverter. In the end, you either power the outlets from the plug on the inverter, or you power the outlets from the orange Romex wire. There would never be a time when both sources power the outlets simultaneously. Without a switch of some kind (preferably an automatic transfer switch) the inverter prep circuit is not going to work as designed. In the video, you can see two power sources coming into the automatic transfer switch and one wire (load circuit) going to the light. Your inverter is but one of those power sources. The live end of the orange Romex wire is the other. Hope that helps.
Your Video an explanation is Spot on an came to be true as The Airborne was scrapped an left all of the trial an error people with their hand over their Asses!
Excellent video. I have the Air Sidewinder Elite and wanted to do the recommended yearly maintenance on it but Reese has discontinued this pin box as well as the maintenance kit you have to buy to replace the bushings if needed. I'm really pissed off about that. No support for the older pin box. Says alot about Reese's customer support. really appreiate the time you put into this. Thanks
No particular reason - this is actually a heavily debated topic. I wanted to keep with the manufacturer’s format of disconnecting the positive side of the circuit. Some would argue that it is better to disconnect the negative/ground to prevent any potential of arching when using metal tools to disconnect the positive battery cable. Another argument for disconnecting on the negative side is the number of terminals that are potentially stacked on the positive battery terminal. Since I used positive and negative buss bars, I have a single cable running from the battery to the switch, and a single cable from the switch to the buss bar - no stacking of connectors. In the end, the switch just needs to break the circuit - positive or negative doesn’t really matter.
That is a good question. In my opinion, the factory disconnect causes more problems than is solves. In the disconnected position, the battery bank will continue to drain but will not charge when plugged into shore power. I think manufacturers continue to install them for liability reasons. Since a full battery disconnect would kill power to the emergency brake system and safety systems like CO2 and smoke detectors, those systems remain hot in case someone accidentally forgets to turn the switch on before traveling or camping. When I upgraded my electrical system, I kept the factory switch and added a second full disconnect.
Please rename this to Onecontrol Insite Backup camera. This is for anyone that has that system installed, such as my Rouge 32V. It is the best step by step (even) without that cool ass jumper that i am going to make.
thank you for showing that you need to connect to that network. if you're at home your device may automatically connect to your home and you need to manually connect it to the camera like you show. SOOOOO many people are not being told that, and not able to use the camera.
