This video walks through the process of the removal and disassembly of my Furrion 16 cu ft 12v DC refrigerator from a 2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS,
Frigidaire LFTR1835VF 18.3 CF top freezer. It's about 2 inches too deep but it clears the island when the slide is in. I'll attach a piece of plywood to make a slightly larger floor. WOW, so much more space.
@@michaelcrompton928 Very possible. Unfortunately, there are no replacement parts available so something so simple results in having to replace the whole refrigerator.
Well I did feel the fan a little. Worked with lippert thus morning and the said they would give me 30 percent off a new one. Unrepairable. Not defrosting. No parts to be gotten. I just finished. Installing a residential. Know anyone that might need some parts before it gets junked?
Given the poor track record of these refrigerators, anything less than a free replacement would be paying too much in my opinion. Since it isn’t defrosting, did you happen to check the fuses? I salvaged a few parts out of my old one and will be hauling the dead carcass off to the dump soon. What residential refrigerator did you go with?
I have the same fridge in a Grand Design 260RD. The fridge is located on the slide. I have been experiencing the same issues you mentioned in your video. I am also wondering if the temperature outside plays a role in the cooling process. I was reading through the refrigerator manual and I believe it said that the food should already be cold before putting it in the refrigerator. Wondering if the freezer has to get to the specified temp before the door on the refrigerator will open and allow the refrigerator to cool. Please let us know on the progress or what you find out. Thank you
I have done a lot of testing with both my defective refrigerator (after I pulled it out) and the new one I just installed. Ambient temperature inside the RV does play a roll in cooling. Mine seems to have trouble keeping up if the temp inside the RV goes above 80. Yes, adding food that is already cool helps significantly. Unfortunately, that isn’t always an option. Before I installed the new refrigerator, I would keep two gallon water jugs (about half full) and rotate them between the refrigerator and freezer. I found that helped significantly since the freezer has no problem staying cold. Yes, the freezer has to drop to a certain temperature before the door will open and start cooling the refrigerator. I did find that the automatic defrost in the freezer plays a big role in refrigerator cooling. One of the 40a fuses controls the defrost circuit. When I remove that (simulate a blown fuse) it doesn’t take long before the cooling coils freeze up and prevent the fan from pulling cool air across the coils. When that happens, the freezer seems to stay cool, but the refrigerator does not. In the end, even the brand new refrigerator seems to struggle to keep the refrigerator compartment temperature consistent. My recommendation would be to install LiFePo4 batteries because they operate at a higher base voltage and don’t have such a drastic voltage drop over the charge cycle. Also, never, ever allow this refrigerator to run on low voltage. That seems to be the number one killer of these refrigerators. I am hoping to get a couple more videos out soon.
My first 16 ft fridge quit while under warranty. Neither side cooled. They shipped me a brand new fridge and it is now less than a year old and freezer works and fridge is 54 degrees. I'm trying a hard reset now but not getting my hopes up. Do you think it might be possible to prop the airflow door open slightly and get satisfactory temps? If this one is garbage I'll not put in a third one. I love the 12v and when it works, it's works well but it's looking like time to get a residential.
That door is either fully open or fully closed. I think the refrigerator would get way too cold if it stayed partially open. Further testing (after I made this video) revealed a couple of possibilities for a cold freezer and a warm refrigerator. The door not opening or opening too late, but also a freezer that isn’t defrosting. One of the 40a fuses is for the automatic defrost. When I pulled that fuse, the coils would build up with frost to the point that air wouldn’t pass through resulting in a warmer refrigerator. Voltage is also critical. I found that maintaining a voltage above 12.5 at the refrigerator seemed to help significantly. Any lower than that and the recovery time seemed to go way up. Under the best of conditions, I think that refrigerator struggles to maintain a safe temperature in the refrigerator compartment. I am working on a video of the replacement refrigerator where I am monitoring temps closely and charting them. Hopefully I can get that out soon.
I took the part down in the fridge side that contains the door. I feel the coolness from the freezer but it doesn't seem like the fan is running. I too have my door open switches taped to fool it. Thoughts?
@@jeffchambliss2625 Do you feel the fan on the freezer side? The fan only runs when the compressor is running, so it won’t run if/when it is going through a defrost cycle. If either door is opened, it takes 10-15 seconds before the fan turns back on. Sometimes, you have to open and close the door - that is why some parts of my video have the tape and some don’t. During my testing, I also had the fan not come on until I did a hard reset.
I guess I did forget to show that on the freezer side. You have to pull all the bins and shelves out. There is one screw in the bottom panel that has to come out. Starting at the bottom, look for arrows that are moulded into the plastic cover (use your fingers to feel them because they are almost impossible to see). There is a plastic tab behind each arrow. I took a thin piece of metal and formed it so I could slide it in and help release the tabs. I did find that you can just pull on the panel and it will release, but there is a good chance that the tabs will break. On the refrigerator side, I did show the little latch at the bottom. Once you get that released, the cover will slide down and release at the top. If you pause the video at about 5:18 you can see the arrows I am talking about (look carefully above my ring finger). You should then be able to spot the tabs on the backside of that panel. At 5:18 you will also see that the tab closest to the duct going to the refrigerator is bent back.
So how did you unbolt the fridge from the slide out of the 303 rls I have the same rv my fridge is crooked in the cabinet and the fridge side door is rubbing the wooden trim how to you remove the fridge so i can straighten it. thanks
@@kenschauble At the bottom of the refrigerator is a board that is screwed to the floor, two of the screws go through the bottom hinges. Remove that board and the short board above the refrigerator. I also removed the trim piece that extends the length of the slide. I slid it out using two furniture dollies. What I found is that the microwave outlet was keeping the refrigerator from sitting straight in the hole.
Take a look at my other video , Refrigerator Safety Issues, and you will see why it is sitting crooked. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oc-HYQ0QwCQ.htmlsi=_bCFV8xvHvPCa5lY
