Curl and Burl is a bespoke furniture and cabinet company in Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA. we specialize in high-end wood casework and furniture, including cabinets, built-ins, tables, mantles, closets, etc.
I see you are doing your scribe cuts on the ends of your door frames last, And you have done your side profile first, this causes breakout, on your side profile, ends should’ve been done first, then finishing off with the side profile which will then remove the breakout, Very nice piece of machinery at the price , I have been working with Leitz tooling for many years,
I cut out some of the cast on my hussey to run bigger knives. Its a little sketchy, but ive been able to duplicate everything ive ever needed. Currently, i have just under 70 profiles. As for layout, i use a router since i dont have a cnc or laser. Nicely done
Nice video. I have a hammer F3 shaper and it scares me when I run such large tooling. I have a Comatic power feeder for it, which makes it a lot easier.
the sled is sold by Martin USA, and is an option on the T12 shaper. i think it might be made by Hoffman, resold by Martin, but that's a guess. the clamps are AirTight.
hi zachary, that's the Aigner Bowmouldmaster fence - they make a small one and a big one. the radius inserts come in a few sizes as well. it's a fantastic fence system, functionally, but also for safety and dust collection. the downside is the price, of course....
Having a back cutter and raised panel cutter you could run at the same time would save you a lot of time. Interesting that you run the cutters below. I run them above so the wood is between the table and the cutter so you get an exact thickness to go in the groove regardless of any variation in panel thickness. Probably not that big a deal with a wide belt sander and they should be pretty even in thickness.
@@davidndahura7437 I think if you run the cutter above you would also get a slightly better cut as the panel would be supported on the table as opposed to floating in space unsupported. The way you do it the panel can deflect a bit.
I've been grinding my own W&H knives for a few decades now, one thing I like to do on radiused moldings is to grind wings on the inside and outside of the profile so the knife determines molding size. I'll make a guide out of MDF and mount the blank to it by screwing up into the molding blank with brass screws into the meat of the profile. (Use brass cause it won't hurt your knifes when you place a screw wrong.) The wings do burn sometimes but a bit of sanding is less painful than cutting and running an unsupported blank.
Strange how videos get recommended isn't it. this video is very well done. I am not a huge user of shapers, but I do use them frequently. Mine are normal American type shapers, However, this is quite a Martin shaper you have. Your setup is terrific and your skills are fantastic as well. good job.
i guess i don't understand the question. i'm doing the cope cuts first, and there's almost no tearout with the zuani cutters, especially on relatively soft woods. then i run the profile cuts, removing that entire edge. any tearout that is there is then gone.
@@jar944 this video is really showing setup - my process is illustrated in the other video. no idea what i was doing here, probably just running a test cut to check the vertical alignment.
@@curlandburl6937 I was hoping you somehow solved the tearout issue with coping after sticking with a single cope head and no profiled backer...lol. Would have saved me from buying clockwise and counter clockwise cope sets.
no the outboard fence is made by Aigner, and i believe it's been discontinued. you can easily make your own. if you do so, i suggest using a piece of aluminum as the front wear edge. if you wax it, it's very slippery, and much more durable than a piece of wood.
yeah this is always a challenge. for short parts, i use a different sled - specifically a Copemaster sled with air-actuated top clamping bar. i have the Martin shaper programmed for the offsets, and i can dial in the shaper quickly to switch to the copemaster. certainly doing short parts requires different techniques.
i've made a few upgrades since this video. there are now "permanent" Aigner extension tables on each side of the shaper, there is an air feed system in front to blow dust/chips away, and i mounted an Aigner bar to the front of the Martin to accept the Aigner outboard fence.
hi mark - so, the Aigner hood has that built in. the guide bushing is "flared" on the sides so that when you start, you're off the cutter. it's elliptical, and only follows the cutter at the apex of the guide. it "engineers out" the starting pin. in a world where i'm using a straight bearing instead of the aigner hood bushing, i ensure that the template runs long relative to the workpiece so that i'm firmly on the bearing.
Why don’t you bolt a false high fence to your spindle moulder fence cut a curved saddle fix that to the false fence and feed your flat curved piece through the block it’s a lot quicker easier and when set up correctly just as safe plus your not limited to the width and length of your thicknesser table
Just found your video as I’m doing a similar job at the moment- great work, content like this is absolute gold for other joiners who are attempting the work for the first time.
the moulding knives are made by Tim Yunger at customouldingknives.com - tim's great, i've worked with him for many years, and can't recommend him more highly.
the vacuum press? i built it. the top frame and poly is from vacupress, but the assembly is mine. i covet the Barth, but there's no way i have room for it. plus, mine works fine.
Great video, practical demonstrations, not enough like these in the world. When confronted with all the set up steps for these, I often consider treating it as a fully cnc machined part, but definitely no cnc bits leave a finish like proper cutters in proper machines for the purpose.
yeah this is something i think about quite often. in fact, the next project i have coming up, all of the curved moulding is going to be made on the CNC, instead of with the moulder. in this case, for these doors, the vast majority of the moulding is straight, and for that, the moulder is a far, far better (and faster, and more efficient) approach. it's only the few curved pieces.... now, could i cut those pieces on the CNC and skip all of the steps with the moulder? yeah, i suppose, but would it look right? hard to say. i think it's a function of "all or nothing" - cut all the moulding on the CNC, or cut it all with the knife. just my $0.02. next project it's "all on the CNC."
So great to see you back here, Dave! I can see the amount of work that goes into producing a video like this. But your explanations are just fascinating, and the results (both the woodwork and the video) are fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing it.
yeah... generally speaking, the tear-out really doesn't matter too much anyway, because one side ends up being profiled on the sticking cut, and the other is trimmed off in the final door sizing. that said, the zuani cutters are so damn good, there's barely any tear out.
Great video. Your demos are clear and informative. I have yet to use my Aigner boumouldmaster so your video will be helpful when I do. Keep the videos coming!
thanks for the kind words. honestly, making videos is a bit of a PIA. if you have anything in particular you'd like to see, let me know, and i'll try to work on it during an appropriate project.
Nice work. Thanks for the video. Your spiral cutter doesn't appear to have horizontally placed cutters for clean cuts on the edge 90° to the main cutting plane, yet the moulding rebate looked nice and crisp on both edges. I've not managed to achieve this with my spiral cutter block. Cheers, David
hey thanks for the comment. so, there are two cutters - the big steel spiral cutter does not have wing cutters, it can't really do rabbets. i'm using that only to true up to the patterns. for the rabbet cuts, i'm using the amana shear cutter (it's red), and that does have insert top and bottom cutters for rabbets. i wish i had a spiral cutter with wings, maybe one day....
I have the older CNC Felder Profil 45 Format 4 shaper with sliding table and 30MM spindle. With the Felder hold down clamps and using the Aigner fence along with or without the Felder block; we achieve the same you have here for cope and stick cuts. We clamp the wood in a perfect 90 degree position on the out rigger and begin the cut with Felder rail and style tooling or make muntins using the optional Felder high speed spindle and a custom router bit to match the Felder tooling in making muntin profiles. With the CNC fence we are able to adapt to a variety of muntin widths required to join muntin to rail and style. This setup with Felder shaper probably costs approximately $25-27K less than your Martin with sled and Italian tooling. We use the same Felder X-Roll out rigger with Felder round corner tooling and Aigner fence to round over corners of replica antique 150 year old UK design air rifle boxes. For end grain cutting the Felder has a custom spoil block on the out rigger fence to eliminate tear out. Felder Senior was quite a clever guy in his day.
i'm glad you're happy with your felder setup. i know many great woodworkers who do terrific work with felder equipment. i looked at the felder shapers very carefully.... before buying the Martin.
thanks for the comment - the clamps are by Mac Campshire, and they are *fantastic* - highly recommended. i have them on my slider and my shaper. worth every penny.
Nice video, Dave! If there's any better use of technology than to allow "your butt to sit comfortably in the seat," I haven't heard of it yet. 😂 After seeing you run your CNC in person, this reminds me once again of the amazing amount of knowledge and skill you've accumulated to make this all happen. And I sit here every day under our awesome wood logo you cut for us, and it still makes me smile every time I look at it. ☺️
Very nice video. It’s great to see tooling of the common-man in use instead of Zuani once in a while. I chuckled to myself when you said “And now, like so much in woodworking, it’s just the monotony of feeding the wood”. I found myself thinking “One way to reduce the monotony is to eliminate CNC shaper setups, and do the setups manually and from scratch every time”. 😜
hi david, thanks for the comment. i follow your posts and work on sawmill creek. as i said in the video, this isn't our first shaper - in fact it's our fifth. i've had two decades of manual setup, and until my shop partner said that he was starting to have vision issues and was getting really tired of the long setup times, we didn't even consider this machine. but, now that we have it, i believe it's worth every dime. the first 20+ custom kitchens i made were done with "regular" shapers, and track saws/cabinet saw/sliding table saw, and now, we use a CNC to do the plywood. some of the effort is offloaded to the software setup and configuration, rather than days at the slider cutting parts. is that any less woodworking? well, the last 10+ kitchens have been more pleasurable to build than the 20 before. in some cases, we use money to buy equipment that spikes efficiency or capability, or solves particular challenges with technology rather than brute force. that said, i still love my hand plane collection. different strokes for different folks, right?
@@curlandburl6937 Hi David, I wasn't trying to be critical - not at all. You have an excellent presentation style and voice and great production values. Your video does tread over ground I covered earlier ( flic.kr/s/aHsmKqCqKz ), but my videos are a lot more involved because I do not benefit from a CNC shaper and thus drag the viewer through all the setup steps, and as a result I get comments like "why do you make this so complicated?" LOL It is complicated to set up - even the first time using CNC machines it's complicated. But like you said, even your situation started with more basic equipment, and only through volume can the benefits and cost justification for CNC equipment can be justified. I often have amusing discussions with other woodworkers about whether their craft is really "woodworking" or is "manufacturing." This distinctions is probably not important in the kind of work you and I do (I'm a slave to CAD as much as anyone), but when you get to Tilt/Turn Windows like some of my friends specialize in, I find the distinction highly applicable. As a one-time Martin rep, I will say that Martin should pay you to make more videos. Whether they pay you, or you get rich from RU-vid ad revenue, please keep making videos - they inspire and educate and we need more of that.
thanks for watching. obviously this is my first video, and i hope to be releasing many more. here are a few links to some of the tooling you see: martin machinery: www.martin-usa.com rangate: www.rangate.com if you have comments or questions, please leave them and i will try to respond.
