I am the underground. Abused. Under-educated. Reverse-engineered. Previously ASE certified 13 times, and recertified. Making junk work, with no permissions. Creating ideas. Taking advice with a grain of salt. Hearing what other people have to say through the minds eye. Listening. Watching. Seeing. Calculating. My experience blows like the wind. What has been done, is trying to forget. Tomorrow is always new, because people don't know what they are doing.
Don't know if you will see this, but I'll give it a try. First, great vid! No BS, just getting it done straight forward as it should be. At the 12:32 mark while you are putting the new water pump in, there is a pulley/tensioner in the frame. It is clearly marked with a white "HCC". Can you tell me what this part is? I have the same Kia where this item is making a screeching noise when turning the wheels lock-to-lock and I would like to replace it. I verified the noise is from this item by use of Chassis Ears. Nothing else was making any unusual noises. Appreciate the help.
that's a great video thank you for share.Question where I can buy those flexible line, any feedback will be appreciated,i'm driving a 2007 gmc yukon denali
@@pastrana37 people make, and sell them on ebay, and amazon. You just need to make sure you get the right length, because there are a few different wheelbases.
@RustBeltAuto ThankU So Much Yeah I just Foud it Auto cooling Solution I'm Taking to Them Right now,ThankU Very Much I Really Appreciate you fast Response Have wonderful Day ✌️
Insane that you will have to do this every 100k ..and it really isnt a diy job. I can image people selling off the truck before replacing the belt and waterpump
Great video. Two helpful things for those trying to tackle this. The 4 bolt on the pedal assembly is very easily accessible from the fuse compartment on the left side of the steering wheel - yank it down and you have straight access with a long extension. 2nd - when you are putting the new cylinder in you have to make sure that the fins on the sides go with the correct slots. One is bigger then the others. I ran into this problem. The slot on the upper part of the hole will accommodate the larger of the finds Great vid
"Tree-Jackers" Love it. Thank you so much for the vid. BTW.. That "special tool" to hold the pulley in place while you loosen / tighten the crank shaft nut is called a 'spanner wrench'. The KIA Sportage was 'engineered' to use that tool to take on and off the crank shaft pulley. Personally, I wouldn't use an impact wrench to put that nut back on. Also, I wouldn't turn the engine over (before starting project) with a wrench and socket lodged to loosen that nut as Scotty Kilmer suggested. The pulley was 'engineered' to use a spanner wrench to take it on and off with.
Thanks for this video. Many vehicles have alternators in places that make it almost impossible, yes these Accords make the job so much easier. My car just died and I thought it was the battery, I replaced it and after two days, it died again... well, that means only one thing... dead alternator, and with this video, I could do it in an hour. I had a hard time removing the old Denso and had to rewatch how you removed it. After turning it all angles, I realized the only way to remove it without taking the stuff off is exactly how you did... turn the alternator upside down with the pulley facing down to get it out from under the hoses, then turn it under the hoses and have the pulley facing the left side to pull it out from the engine bay. When you put in the new alternator make sure to PUT it in EXACTLY how you removed the old one. Thank you... Thank you!!!
That is some awesome advice. I am about to do the rears on my 2003 F150 that are the original stock. Was watching another video where they cut the nut and air hammer it off. You saved me a lot of headaches and swear words. 😂
You probably just saved me two hours of work. Other videos show that you have to take off the brakes, the rotor, disconnect everything from the struts. You took out three nuts and used a pickle fork. Thank you
@1:08 - 7mm @1:20 - Yes, there should be two 10mm nuts. But they are on plastic threaded stems attached to the grill. Old plastic dries out and can break easily. ---------- Successfully replaced the condenser (and drier) on my 2011 Ford Escape. Thanks to this video, the job was much easier than anticipated. One additional step I would recommend is to remove the metal mount above where the transmission cooling lines are to prevent injury when removing the lines from the condenser unit. I initially didn't, and my thumb is paying the price for it. Also, those spring clips are a pain to deal with. Recommend replacing them with marine grade, 316 stainless steel worm gear hose clamps.
Buddy you really helped me out here. Had just redone the motor and had the trans out at the same time. Got everything bolted up and went to do the trans dipstick and thought I was gonna have to partially pull the motor again. Thanks for doing this video!
Thank you very much. Worked like a charm. 0:51 start to get door panel off remove rubber tray in hollow behind window up and downs. #2 Philips screw remove one behind the door opener 2 x 7mm nuts behind door opener 1:19 pull up on connector holding door opener Be careful with the green connector because they like to snap 1:42 3x Philips screw drivers behind the door opener. 1:51 Door panel tool or pop off the door plastic push up on left side 2:17 disconnect wires light on door outer bottom. Turn counter clock wise and pop off on the up/down connectors, push on little tabs to remove connector 2:42 Remove plastic Really tough to remove, used a knife. 3:30 Forgot to line the window midway up to get access to some bolts. Had to plug the window up down again to make it work. 10mm nuts to remove 3:45 Pull up the window keep up with blue masking tape taped window in up position. 3:59 Unplug connector for the motor. There is a tab on the back of the connector 4:08 Loosen up 3 nuts holding the window motor 4 more to loosen up. two high, two low Ones without a big hole next to it, have to be taken out. 4:55 Fish the motor out the big hole in the door 5:20 He takes the window out because there was broken glass. Don't think I need to do that. But I should clean the rubber channel around the window for any gravel or dirt. Perhaps and some slide stuff. 6:43 He reinstalls the window and tapes it back in up position. 6:48 takes bolts out of the unit that stayed in before. and put them in the new unit. 7:15 puts the motor back in the hole same way. Get the 3 bolt holes aligned and puts the other bolts in M6 x 1mm He sped up this part 7:39 plug in the motor connector 7:46 plug the door connectors back in to get the motor running. Remove tape and slowly let the window down till it lines up with the holes 8:00 Nothing lined up. Had to die grind some holes to get it to align. YIKES 9:00 he tests the up and down and it works. Disconnects the door connectors again and 9:30 tapes up the plastic sheeting Somewhere he connects the connectors back on. 9:45 if any plastic clips stuck in the door. Take them out and put them in door panel 9:55 pops off the little triangle piece by the mirror to get the inside plastic back on. 10:04 sped up putting the door panel back on. and then put the triangle piece back 10:19 put the bolts in behind the door opener and the ones in the tray behind the up/down 10:30 door latch cable reattach. and stick the plastic cover back on Done.
