I own a 2010 Ford Focus MK2, and I’m experiencing issues with the speakers. Currently, only the rear driver-side speaker and the front right tweeter are working. I’ve checked the wiring, and everything seems to be intact. Does anyone have any idea what the issue might be?
This was the same issue I had. Never managed to get to the bottom of exactly why they stopped working. The speakers look fine, but just don't make any sound. My hypothesis is that the coils go bad inside the speakers due to moisture over the years. Swapping them out with new drivers like in my video has worked perfectly.
I own a 1.4 2007 and a 1.6 zetec estate and are great cars.Have to keep an eye on sills for corrosion and use a suitable treatment.Regular oil changes are the secret to keeping them going.
Well, I have 2 sitting in my driveway, a '96 Chico 1.3 and a '07 Chico 1.4, and I wouldn't trade them for anything else. Both cars are still going strong (my '96 has over 400 000 km's on the odometer), maintenance is cheap and fairly easy and most repairs can be done over a weekend and with a few cold beers. Any modern equivalent car simply lacks the Citi Golf's character and charm, and - sadly - nothing that VW builds nowadays is anywhere near as reliable.
Yes I think so. Mine is the opposite actually - smooth idle on first start but lumpy when up to temp. But I've stopped trying to find the cause now and have just accepted it's a quirk of the car. It runs perfectly other than that.
Really good video, just bought a 2018 mk1 petrol and intend to do own servicing. Do you have a link for the service reset dongle, i understand there are a lot of fake ones that wont work.
Glad the video was helpful 😊 Yes, you're correct, you need an OBD2 reader with a specific chip in it. Specifically, you will need an ELM327 Bluetooth reader V1.5, with the PIC18F25k80 chip. I made a how-to guide for resetting the service light, which has all the details you'll need: docs.google.com/document/d/1y9iLTUiTzP9no0Kjtzj1AflVg2NsCkzXug2KOzTQGn8
Sorry for the slow reply. I'm afraid I didn't note the exact size, but it was a standard size torx head - if you have a set of screwdrivers with the usual torx sizes, one of them should fit right
I’m not a huge fan of the pre-facelift’s interior, as the blue makes it feel a bit Citroën or Fiat-like to me, but I think the facelift had a great interior to go with its stunning looks. I drive a 2011 1.6 TDCi a few weeks ago and was amazed at how rapid it was compared to a Golf 1.6 TDI. However, that particular car let itself down as being the Sport model, it had the fancy enhanced radio, the wiring on which was buggered so that every time it cut out, the engine lights momentarily came on. And the sat nav moved on its own, so it was telling me what to do when I get off the motorway just as I was getting on it. It was still a hell of a lot more fun than the Mk3 1.6 petrol I drove a few weeks later. That was just gutless and boring.
if you have ramps or jack the car up high enough to get under it...hug the bell housing, get long angled needle nose pliers & it's a lot easier than trying this from the top
Hey! Not a job I've done myself - there is no EGR on the1.6 petrol, only the diesel engines. But you should be able to find it at the back of the engine, it's fairly accessible but you need a special Clic-R clip release tool for the clamp on the pipework to the left of the valve.
Yeah the MX5 has spoiled me - since I got it almost every other car is disappointing to drive! But surprisingly this Focus still manages to put a smile on my face, so I can definitely recommend it. The only thing to note is, as with any old car, things will need working on from time to time. But most jobs have been pretty easy so far. Fingers crossed!
Fab thank you! Just cleaned mine and stopped it cutting out 😊 Combined with 2CarPros video below to remove throttle. Both have excellent points to complete the job and prevent issues. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-20-Dyq3fmNA.htmlsi=gD7lRqMmD6iX9Y9I
@@FocusRS500 There is no difference at all in bass between the stock speakers and those aftermarket ones. They sound completely identical when listening
It looks like you got green LEDs for the HVAC and ashtray, but how about the dashboard itself? Since the MX5 has a natural green tint across the face so was that what it looks like with white LEDs coming through the green face or green LEDs going through the green face? Thanks for the great video detailing everything though, especially the exact bulb types. Those were always difficult to get a consensus online for. I'll be doing the same setup probably except maybe a white in the cupholder (replaces the ashtray) instead.
@@RetroQGaming I went with green LEDs for everything because I didn't want the slightly faded yellow-green tint that the filter behind the dashboard provides - I wanted a nice crisp green all round. The only downside is that the red parts of the clocks (e.g. rev limit) look grey in the green light.
great video, will do my own research on the engine oil, i have heard and think you also did, that it’s ok to use the same oil for gearbox and diff? i’ve watched this in bed at 7am so probably missed it but what sockets/torx bits did you need for the whole thing? appreciate the video is years old so not expecting a reply but this vid is saved to my service playlist and will be referred to when i figure out how to get my mx5 jacked up! liked and subscribed
@@kayachan5198 Actually I made a bit of a mistake regarding the gearbox / diff oil. They use the same grade of oil, but the Redline MT90 is not the same as Redline 75w90. The MT90 is specifically designed for transmissions and has friction modifiers to help engage the synchros. If used in a diff this causes extra drag. So I actually changed the diff oil again later to Redline 75w90. Off the top of my head I can't remember the exact socket / bit sizes, but if you have a regular tool set with a range of sockets, and a set of Philips screwdrivers I think you'll be fine. I don't believe there are any torx screws on the MX5 from what I can remember.
@@RobGMyMX5 Amazing, thanks for the reply - I've figured out that a £50 socket kit from Halfords should have everything I need, I think I'm going to risk using the same 75W-90 GL4 oil in both the diff + gearbox
Hello Rob, at the time I also thought the Mk2 was bland and so I deliberately opted for a second hand Mk1. However today I appreciate the Mk2's design more than I ever did back in 2006. I hired a few Mk2s from Hertz at that time and I found it a more relaxing and comfortable long distance drive compared to the Mk1. Of the two Focus models I prefer Mk1 as I know I am driving a brilliant design which will become a modern classic.
Having driven both, I also definitely prefer the refinement of the Mk2. But you're right, I don't think it will ever become quite as desirable as a classic as the mk1 - it was a safe bet rather than a radical one. But I think in time people will still come to appreciate the Mk2, it represents one of the last modern cars which was still relatively unencumbered by overbearing technology.
The aux input was only fitted on certain models, but all the radios have an aux button, so it's quite common to have the button but no input unfortunately. If you don't want to go through all the steps in the video, you could get something like this instead: amzn.eu/d/06OoluVB You'll still need to remove the radio to plug this into the back though.
Yeah got my self 2005 mk2 with 170,000kms on it, and still goes decently. The most stupid thing with the car is how you open the bonnet/hood with the damn key in the front, and yeah my lock went bad evently where on of the plastic arms broke of. So i had to open the hood with tiny tools to remove the two plastic screw under the hood to get the grill out so i could open the bonnet. Had bought a new key lock and everything but i then saw i could use the plastic arm that came with the new lock on my old lock so i just used it instead. So i dint have to use new keys and could still use my orginal key. And then you have the car windshield washer on the bonnet that is abit crap, as they can leak and they are placed right over the engine and water from the windshield washer can get down into the spark plugs killing them off. But found a solution for it with a Volvo shield. As the car shared platform with volvo " C30, S40, V50 " i could use it on my ford mk2. Part number : 30650468 Last problem for me now atm is my coolant is over time slowely gets lower. Did a pressure test and it was negative. Changed out he plastic beholder as they go bad after many heat/cold cycles. But still coolant slowley gets lower over time, and when the oil is changed you dont see any slush either.They also say the older the car gets the more coolant it will use. So yeah hopefull just s tiny leak on a cable somewhere or headcasket is bad. But not gonna change headcasket on a 20 year old car. If it goes it goes. Yeah that button on the handbrake got broken as well, i bought a new one. But just never could get it on the handbrake. The most nice with the car is the front window having Windshield Heater witch is very nice during the winter, and i have like 6 months of winter so it gets used alot.
HI if your coolant loss issue is on the 1.6 it is probably the thermostat housing on the front of the engine behind the alternator. It is nothing serious but the plastic housing degrades over time and does tend to leak even though it can be a tiny amount you do not notice. Cheap to buy the part and fairly easy to replace along with seals thermostat etc. Or you can just live with it and top up the coolant now and then. It leaks so little you do not find it until you look for it hidden away at the front of the engine. I have this problem on a MK1 but it is not to serious so have not changed it yet.
I haven't done this job yet, but according to Rod's manual, if you remove the clutch master cylinder caps, and fix a sheet of cling film over the top, it should help with the fluid not leaking out the end of the pipe when it's time to reconnect it to the slave cylinder.
Why have u mixed 2 color (green and blue) coolant? I believe it is not recommended and it is not good for the engine cooling system when we mix 2 different color coolants. Correct me if am wrong.. 🤔
The green coolant is Renault Type D coolant, which I had spare. This has now been superceded by Renault Type E coolant, which has a few variations for environmental reasons, but is fully backwards compatible with Type D. So mixing them is not an issue.
@@RobGMyMX5mine 2006 focus with 1.6 TDCi has this issue too, and I also thought it has some clutch issues, but then I watched "JayEmm on Cars" review about focus and he said these cars had this issue even when they were new. He said he learned how to drive on these and he always had a fear of stalling the car. Pretty interesting stuff
I have a 2006 focus sport 1.8tdci less then 120k on the clock, 2 focus owned and absolutely love them, Ford all the way for me but my hearts for the mk2 focus
I still have the 2005 zetec in the same tonic blue colour, I'm still smiling the value when I bought it for 8K, only grumble is 5 gears no sixth so noisy in long distance driving. I love this classic soon.
Yes I agree, 6th gear would be great for motorway cruising, as would cruise control. Apparently this can be mapped into the ECU if one has the right steering wheel with the controls on it. Might look into this as a future project
@@RobGMyMX5 Another question: Some can clean it with a toothbrush without removing the throttle body. If I prefer to do it this way, I don't need to remove the battery? They mention not pushing the valve open manually if it's electronically operated, which could damage it. Instead, turn the ignition to power on (don't start the engine), then brace the accelerator pedal hard down inside the car to open the valve. How I know mine is electronically operated or not?
@@jeroendenny6430 All mk2 Focus have an electronic throttle body, so this method will work. However, it will be difficult to clean both sides of the the butterfly valve properly with it still in place like this. You will still need to disconnect the battery afterwards for at least 15 mins or so, so that the ECU can recalibrate with the throttle body after it's been cleaned. Since it's relatively easy to take the throttle body out, I would recommend you take it right out so you can clean it properly
I sold my 2005 focus with 125.807 miles on it not too long ago. Indeed mechanically the car would feel like it could go on forever. But rust was starting to get to it.. :/. It's wasn't worth fixing it.
@@RobGMyMX5 If you get to it in time it will. It got the point where my rear brake would rust shut everytime I drove through rain/wet road. (And if I left the car for 2 days after that). I got it fixed once but It only lasted for 6 months
@@Wolly9102 erm your brakes rusting are not a rust issue lol. IT is just old brake drums needing replacing. Could be fixed for 60 quid . Oh how the mechanically inept waste money selling perfectly good cars.
I have a ford c max MK2 and it's basically the focus but bigger. It's so much fun to chuck around. You've talked me into buying one of these too for work. Thanks 😃
It's not particularly dirty, in fact I don't think that level of dirt would cause a significant problem. The scenario is much worse with vehicles that use the EGR system. The problem you describe is also related to the IAC valve seen just above the oil dipstick attached to the engine with 2 screws at 01:20, which appears to be in poor condition.
I bought a 2nd hand 2006 Focus MK2 1.8 Ghia Sedan in 2016 in Malaysia, it was already 10 years old at the time.. Now it's 2024, the car is still solid.. And because it's such a rare car in this part of Malaysia, it quite a head turner too..
Ahh that’s great just the video I needed, probably gone through a dozen previous how to videos your the one who solved it for me. Thank you chap you’re a star. One tip, five minutes and four quick easy bolts removes the drivers seat making it so much easier for the not so good contortionists for some of us with the heavier waste lines.
Ah that's great! Glad you found it useful. Yes, removing the seat is a smart idea, it did occur to me afterwards! Oh well, a bit of yoga practice can't hurt I suppose 😄
I have a 2010 Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec. Rust is s big problem and had springs done on all corners. At 116,000 miles it drives well. Also had to have the whole exhaust replaced as the flexi had a hole in it.
It's interesting how sometimes they seem to rust badly but in other cases they seem quite resilient. Mines is relatively rust free, but friends of mine had another one of exactly the same age and the entire subframe was like swiss cheese.
@@RobGMyMX5 i have always treated all my cars with care even the most basic ones. I made a Nissan Micra last 23 years of daily use :). I still drive an old Toyota that is 26 years old and fairly rust free. Even my old focus is 20 years old and still fairly solid.
I have a 1.8 ztec 2006 its done approx 110 thousand miles is my daily driver ...its been a great car so far ..nothing major ...ooops probably jinxed it now 😂
Got a 2005 1.6 tdci with 125000km. My first car and I really love it. It handles very well and it has great space to carry stuff and people around. The seats are quite comfortable for longer drives. It’s not a fast car indeed but perfect for beginners AND it has pretty decent mileage!
Hi Rob, I always blamed rust for the black contaminants due to the steel lines being subjected to water in the brake & clutch systems. Rust is usually black in a dark environment. I was in heavy industry for 40 years and witnessed this blackening on a regular basis. It was so bad that you had to wear ppe or you took the black gunge home with you.very similar to central heating flushing.ps another great video Rob. Thanks.
