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Ultimate Gumby
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@rgr195
@rgr195 Год назад
P2 was fun, just over before it really gets going
@Alvinyokatori
@Alvinyokatori Год назад
There’s another crack to the left of the start of p2 that takes u to a different ledge, if u traverse that you’ll be on a “kentucky alpine” trail to the top, probably a chossy situation tho
@Alvinyokatori
@Alvinyokatori Год назад
The other crack is low exposure and might be an interesting scramble for a talented climber idk I Probly wouldn’t
@stevenmedly8062
@stevenmedly8062 Год назад
I really hope people aren't watching these videos to learn how to trad climb
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 Год назад
Yeah, I just did this climb again yesterday. I was not a fan of the run between 3rd and fourth bolt 😆
@bloodink9508
@bloodink9508 Год назад
Good vid. A good how to on the climb, less so on the gear. A learning experience as all trad is. Thanks.
@Djdrunkdad
@Djdrunkdad Год назад
What protection did you take for this route
@princenabby1
@princenabby1 2 года назад
This was sort of excruciating to watch. I know it's a few years old now, and everyone has to start somewhere, but I really want to encourage you to invest some time learning to place solid gear at the base of a crag and have someone more experienced assess it before you whip up high and end getting seriously hurt!
@JREV123
@JREV123 2 года назад
when belaying your follower, curious what happens if they fall between their last piece and the anchor, would they swing across 50-70 feet to your plum line at the anchor?
@marklishmael
@marklishmael 2 года назад
Yeah, offset nuts seat well and work better in those slots between the plates than standard nuts... but fortunately the climbing ain't that hard. But yeah, the protection on that route ain't what you would hope for. But it's a fun climb anyways.
@marklishmael
@marklishmael 2 года назад
Good climb, and a good video. Thanks for the beta. Looking forward to do this soon.
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 2 года назад
Missing the sounds of summer. Thanks for sharing🤙
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 2 года назад
For all the commenters... It's "R" for a reason. The placemats are going to be crappy or non existent. Lol. Sometimes in the RRG on an R route, the placements are mental lies anyway. Thanks for sharing. Be safe🤙
@stuff2climb102
@stuff2climb102 2 года назад
noice! when I did it we used some cordellette to build an anchor on that protruding rock where you spoke to those climbers up top, then did the traverse along the top on the second pitch. also you can build some fun top ropes on some of those bolts on either side to play on after.
@NatetheAceOfficial
@NatetheAceOfficial 3 года назад
Looks good for a passive send too! Those cracks look great! Excellent constrictions. They are a bit flaky though. Just don't fall, and you won't have to find out! Sick Send!
@Papershields001
@Papershields001 3 года назад
So many opportunities for bomber trad placements. I wanna climb this so bad.
@LongBoy.0
@LongBoy.0 3 года назад
This is so annoying to watch. You place way too much gear, just climb. There are so many standing no hands rests to place gear lol.
@thomaswezwick5470
@thomaswezwick5470 2 года назад
Agreed.........!!!!!!!!!!!
@thomaswezwick5470
@thomaswezwick5470 2 года назад
I climbed when we just climbed and did not have to GoPro everything,,,Plus the go pro makes claims wat steeper looking than they really are ,,, Giving a false illusion......5.6 ..
@hairymotter5455
@hairymotter5455 3 года назад
I wouldn't trust a belayer who doesn't know how to remove a cam
@lukeandraka3537
@lukeandraka3537 3 года назад
Im pretty sure plate tectonics is 5.7+ at the hardest. Nice try though
@chrisdecker7237
@chrisdecker7237 3 года назад
Mountain project shows it is 10a, but looks like pure fun either way.
@agawied2910
@agawied2910 3 года назад
You mad lukey
@jordans92169
@jordans92169 2 года назад
It's a 10 A
@lukeandraka3537
@lukeandraka3537 2 года назад
No no pretty sure 5.7+
@crabhands
@crabhands Год назад
@@lukeandraka3537 you must be so strong
@shawnlund
@shawnlund 3 года назад
You gain nothing by climbing past a shitty placement with good options all around.
@courtclimbs
@courtclimbs 3 года назад
Ooo, this is going on the list for sure
@JoeKunsch
@JoeKunsch 3 года назад
hold up... why was the PAS in your pocket? lol
@erikstrand9876
@erikstrand9876 3 года назад
You had a good nut placement on your first piece, and then traded it for a terrible nut placement, after passing three great but placement potential because they're "dirty" as you said lol
@andybraasch3798
@andybraasch3798 3 года назад
Having climbed that route myself none of the spots for pro are what you would call good
@garys5175
@garys5175 3 года назад
Sweet climb. Thank you for sharing.
@partykrew666
@partykrew666 3 года назад
bro, take your time with the placements lol. the one at 7:27 is pretty heinously bad. that said, this looks like it'd be pretty fun to fuck around on. obviously a little sandbagged, looks like it should be closer to 5.6 or 5.7 at the beginning
@bubbyb0i6967
@bubbyb0i6967 3 года назад
Whoa! Small world! I was with the couple at the top the day you climbed this! I remember seeing you and your dad get on it. Matter of fact, that was me at the bottom while you were on the first pitch lol
@ShowBizKidsZoo
@ShowBizKidsZoo 4 года назад
Great video! Thank you for posting this so I could vicariously re-live the moment. My recollection from climbing it myself (years ago) is that the first pitch ends at the top of the 'short chimney' on the west face (to the climber's right) just after he first chatted with other climbers by a bolt on the east face (16:00). Plenty of room there. It's opposite the side with the wrap bolts mentioned at 15:00. The 2nd pitch then mostly traverses the rest of the way to the mid-ridge summit and the 'guest register'. (Breaking up the route also prevents the heavy rope drag mentioned a few times.) One cautionary note: Whether done as a single pitch, or as a 2nd pitch, however, I would place pro here and there along the remainder of the climb/traverse to protect the lead and perhaps moreso the second -- and other climbers on the face below -- from a wide pendulum risk. Even if the lead or 2nd merely had a freak fall due to broken rock, lost footing, wildlife startling the climber, disruption of the rope by other climbers, etc., that long run-out could send the climber swinging down across one face or the other, into other climbers, ropes, pro, or unforgiving rocks in the process.
@LouDude502
@LouDude502 4 года назад
Been meaning to get the second part of this climb done. Thanks for sharing 🤙
@spencerdengler3689
@spencerdengler3689 4 года назад
“Dude all the holds look good but they just.... aren’t. It’s making me pretty sad.”
@spencerdengler3689
@spencerdengler3689 4 года назад
You’re fuckin raw
@spencerdengler3689
@spencerdengler3689 4 года назад
Too ez
@revhead
@revhead 4 года назад
Good climbing and gear placement. I love how you use ovals on the alpine draws to increase the degree of difficulty. So 1985!
@cavecudi2184
@cavecudi2184 4 года назад
This guy’s a badass. But I bet I could take him.
@spencerdengler3689
@spencerdengler3689 4 года назад
Sick
@spencerdengler3689
@spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад
Awesome
@spencerdengler3689
@spencerdengler3689 5 лет назад
Bad ass