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Gunsight to South Peak Direct (5.4) - South Peak - Trad Climbing in Seneca Rocks, WV 

Ultimate Gumby
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This climb has the coolest exposure of almost any climb I have ever done. It's super easy and the gear placements are all obvious. Great for an inexperienced leader. We took Tomato to get to gunsight ledge. We were going to take Debbie to Banana but a group was already on those pitches when we got there. Be careful because this climb is popular and frequently crowded. Not sure where it's actually supposed to finish but I just chose a random set of anchors near the top. Climbed on 10/5/2019.

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6 окт 2019

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Комментарии : 8   
@revhead
@revhead 4 года назад
Good climbing and gear placement. I love how you use ovals on the alpine draws to increase the degree of difficulty. So 1985!
@ShowBizKidsZoo
@ShowBizKidsZoo 4 года назад
Great video! Thank you for posting this so I could vicariously re-live the moment. My recollection from climbing it myself (years ago) is that the first pitch ends at the top of the 'short chimney' on the west face (to the climber's right) just after he first chatted with other climbers by a bolt on the east face (16:00). Plenty of room there. It's opposite the side with the wrap bolts mentioned at 15:00. The 2nd pitch then mostly traverses the rest of the way to the mid-ridge summit and the 'guest register'. (Breaking up the route also prevents the heavy rope drag mentioned a few times.) One cautionary note: Whether done as a single pitch, or as a 2nd pitch, however, I would place pro here and there along the remainder of the climb/traverse to protect the lead and perhaps moreso the second -- and other climbers on the face below -- from a wide pendulum risk. Even if the lead or 2nd merely had a freak fall due to broken rock, lost footing, wildlife startling the climber, disruption of the rope by other climbers, etc., that long run-out could send the climber swinging down across one face or the other, into other climbers, ropes, pro, or unforgiving rocks in the process.
@NatetheAceOfficial
@NatetheAceOfficial 3 года назад
Looks good for a passive send too! Those cracks look great! Excellent constrictions. They are a bit flaky though. Just don't fall, and you won't have to find out! Sick Send!
@stuff2climb102
@stuff2climb102 2 года назад
noice! when I did it we used some cordellette to build an anchor on that protruding rock where you spoke to those climbers up top, then did the traverse along the top on the second pitch. also you can build some fun top ropes on some of those bolts on either side to play on after.
@JREV123
@JREV123 2 года назад
when belaying your follower, curious what happens if they fall between their last piece and the anchor, would they swing across 50-70 feet to your plum line at the anchor?
@Papershields001
@Papershields001 3 года назад
So many opportunities for bomber trad placements. I wanna climb this so bad.
@Djdrunkdad
@Djdrunkdad Год назад
What protection did you take for this route
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