It's great to see a qualified audio professional Aussie on RU-vid..! You know I was wondering if I could ask for some advice? I've got a pair of b&w matrix2 series 2 speakers which are still in excellent condition, bar the woofers. I wasn't sure whether it was the woofer driver or the crossover or the voice coil as I'm just an average Joe who likes decent sounds. But I took the chance and replaced the woofers with these drivers called Dynavox 200, as their advice. But this sounds terrible and it sounds nothing like the original, not even close..! I just can't believe they would recommend that garbage! Can you suggest some other options to replace the woofers driver chassis for my b&w matrix2? I really appreciate it..! Keep those videos coming
Hey! Thanks for the comment, and I'd be happy to help if I can. With something like that, it would be incredibly difficult to find a driver with the same sonic signature. Even for a woofer. If you still have the original drivers, you can get them repaired. Same with the crossovers, if there's a fault with them. Personally, I'd use Queensland Speaker Repairs, but I'm not sure where you're located. 👍👍
@thehilltopworkshop I think the problem was the woofers, because the sound came back, just not what I had hoped for, in fact it was horrible..! Yes, I kept the originals for both speakers. I'm not sure exactly what is broken, whether it's the diaphragm or the voice coils etc..? I live in Sydney. And thanks for replying..!
the Mikuni 32-35DIDTA carb has 5 mounting bolts to attach to the manifold ... 4 hexagon head bolts are easy to locate around the double barrels opening, in a rectangle configuration, ... where's the fifth bolt ?
the Mikuni 32-35DIDTA has 5 mounting bolts to attach to the manifold ... 4 hexagon head bolts are easy to locate around the double barrels opening, in a rectangle configuration, ... the 5th is somewhere, can you help locate it ?
@@thehilltopworkshop more related to the places than the cars themselves ... California is the first state in the world tmk to mandate emissions reductions & inspections ...in the 70s ...Canada followed .... Dodge, Chrysler, Mitsubishi, Plymouth used the Mikuni 32-35DIDTA extensively in their cars/trucks somewhere in the 80s ...it has an extra section to the front right with the EGR valve and a 5th mounting nut on a stud mounted on the intake manifold
hey mate great video, and the second one was even better ! thanks ...has helped me get my head round this carb, i have an isuzu 4zb1 in an Austin 12 of 1936 !!!....my on going problem is I have fuel continually leaking from primary venturi ....any ideas? cheers dude
Provided your float level is good and it's not just having a bit of a flood, that sounds like it has a blocked or non-functioning idle circuit. I'd make sure the idle solenoid is working (you should hear it click when you turn the ignition on) and that the idle circuit is clear. My money would be on the solenoid. 👍
thanks mate , solenoid is good...float is plastic and not adjustable but needle seems fine....wasted all day on it ...ive an idea for tomorrow... wondering if the return route may be blocked through acc pump? \ ... cheers fella
G'day! Most of them have a threaded brass inset that screws on to the shaft of the motor. RH thread from my experience, though I can't speak for all of them. :)
@@thehilltopworkshop Appreciate the reply mate. I'll give it a go. Looks fiddly and difficult to get a good grasp on it. Is there a worthy method to try?
Excellent job on the filming, lighting and narration. This video is a God send for anyone needing to rebuild this carburetor. Thank you very much for posting.
Nice work, but how can I check whether or when I need to replace the ferofluorid? This is the case with many tweeters, I don't know whether it is also the case with B&W, but can I find out?
That's something I've never done with these. I guess you could send them in for service, or open them up yourself, but they're not really a serviceable item.
My davies pump every few days doesnt want to run although the power light is on so it should be-running, unplug for a bit then plug it back in and it starts up again, I,m thinking it could be the capacitor but i dont know
Very interesting I don't follow how the wires Connect to the driver Assembly area. Great job. I have six cities in my house. I actually have one that was attached to a centre speaker from 25 years ago.
I normally use motorbike throttle cable (teflon lined) which I cut to length and crimp the ends, and then either make some fittings in the lathe or buy whatever suits the vehicle. 👍
Hi. I have a Davey Pump not unlike what you have. It does the hum and after a while the motor runs. I figure it would be a similar issue like what you highlighted. I replaced the capacitor with another ICAR 8uF (but plastic like what you showed). On replacing it, the motor just hums but will not turn over. I replaced the original and it turned over but over the course of a few days, it started doing the hum and may / may not decide to turn over behaviour again. Just wondering if I can replace it with a 10uF or 12uF capacitor ? I'm awaiting the delivery of a multimeter that can measure capacitance so I can work out if anything is wrong with the capcitor.
Hard to say without seeing it, but if it doesn't improve after replacing the cap with an exact unit asspecified, then there may be something else wrong with it.
11:25 Did you ever try to remove this cosmetic radiator ? My PV1's one of driver is hitting this aluminum. I dont know how to remove and see why is it happening. It looks the aluminum radiator has detatched from driver cone which i want to fix. Please advise. Thank
Hard to say for sure. It would "work", but they were a fundamentally different speaker so I'm sure the crossovers were designed differently to accommodate the diamond tweeter.
@@thehilltopworkshop I just bought a used pair, and one has intermittent distortion in the midrange driver. Are there common issues that might cause it?
Hey mate, i have the 350p, second hand. Someone (me) messed with the pressure switch screws. Just wondering if you know the stock turns to reset it to factory? :)
Hey there - excellent video. I'm almost at the end of a PV1 breakdown and you make the separation of the two sides look so easy. Can you tell me a bit more about how you separated the sides - I'm stuck (no pun intended)? Do you remember if you can get the power supply and amp out without separating?
like some one else mentioned take the broken piece out or you'll ruin the gear, if you cant get a new part ($45 AUD) $3 USD if ya in the states. so just weld it together, or take it out and use it without it. just have to rest the blade up against something when replacing it. always double check if counter clockwise or clockwise to remove bolt. i broke mine because i didnt check.
The 803D are awesome speakers that mostly even where rated better than their bigger brothers not because of their better performance just because of their price to performance level....the 803 D where the entry into the 800 diamond world while still affordable. When i rememer correctly then they where the smallest speakers with diamond tweeter in the 800 D lineup. The smaller speaker didnt have diamont tweeter, at least as i bought my 803 D . Still awesome speakers today i think. These speakers where arround 8000€ a pair with all the 800 series technology on board, just compare that to todays prices of the 800 D4 series.
Short comment: Great video to show what the insides of commercial subs look like. I had some bad experiences using plate amps from Parts Express 20+ years ago. Long comment: Whenever I build a new subwoofer project I use Crown XLS amps with a line driver like the Rolls MB15B or their subwoofer specific crossover the SX95 because I always use home theater receivers which have low output on the LFE channel. I still use my original XLS2000 my wife got me like 8 years ago. I have had the XLS2000 running (2) 12" Infinity Reference 1262W. Each 12 has its only 4.6 cubic foot down firing down vented enclosure tuned to 21 hz. Currently using the Denon H760 receiver Costco special: LFE channel out to the Rolls MB15B to convert to XLR and raise the voltage so the Crown gain can be left at half. Without the Rolls MB15B the Crown XLS2000 struggled to provide enough power to the subs. With the Rolls I have to be very careful not to melt the voice coils. Each 12" 1262W Infinity Reference ($65 each 8 years ago) can only handle 375 Watts RMS. I did swap out one of the 12" Infinity Reference 1262W's for experiments sake to an Alpine type R 12" when it was on closeout from Crutchfield for like $275. Using Winisd the Alpine Type R did have a slightly deeper and slightly louder sound curve while still maintaining an almost flat response to the upper cutoff of 80hz. It does hit a tiny bit deeper and can handle 750 Watts RMS but it has an aluminum former whereas the Infinity has a high temp plastic Kapton former. From my days doing DB Drag competitions, high temp plastic formers hold up better then aluminum formers. When Aluminum formers over heat they always warp and make that scratchy sound. High Temp plastic formers just give off an offending smell, melt a little of the bonding on the voice coil winding, reduce a bit in impedance, but keep working! Anyway thanks for taking these subs apart and recording it! It is very interesting to see what they use. That Velodyne sub had a huge motor on it!
Hi, I have an XP700 at home and am looking for the right sized generator to run it in case of power outages. I understand the generator has to be big enough to start the pump. Greatly appreciate your advice. Thanks.
Also I think the tweeter decoupled outside of the cabinet containing the woofer really helps with diffusion and isolates it from bass/mids sound & vibration.
Excuse me aren't the pods made out of a solid body of aluminum thars been milled down, I own 705 s2 and it's 100% aluminum, i definitely would not have bought it if plastic.
Top video man - super helpful! My most popular vid on my channel is about me trying to work out why my 94 MJ Triton has a high idle and people keep asking me if I have worked it out yet... i think I'm closer to understanding where some potential issues might be now - cheers. I was considering going the weber route and felt like that would be cheating and the people that want answers from my video would feel ripped off 😬. Don't be surprised if I hit you up with an email - cheers again.
Thanks for the video. After you changed the capacitor on yours, the humming sounds like mine at the moment. But it doesn't pump. What could be the problem?
I have a davey watermate pump. It's old and just 4 days ago the pump doesn't stop, it keeps on running until I switch off the power. How can I fix it. Need your help.🙏
That sounds like a faulty pressure switch. Once it reaches the set pressure, it should cut the power, and not start again until it reaches the lower threshold.
Thanks for the video. I have a PV-1 that died and rather than dispose it, had it rewired as an passive speaker that I power via a dedicated class D subwoofer amp. Works beautifully.
I don't know what "overwhelming majority" of vehicles were designed to use ported. Pretty much all vehicles pre-emissions in the US used manifold. You WANT advance at idle. The engine will run smoother and cooler as a result. Then when you crack the throttle open, the mechanical advance will start working and the vacuum advance's effects will diminish and cease completely when you lose enough vacuum. At that point, you're running on whatever mechanical advance curve you or the manufacturer has put in the distributor. Not sure how so many don't understand how this works. Can you make it work with ported or venturi? Sure, but using manifold along with the proper mechanical curve is superior and would have always been what manufacturers used had emissions not been an issue. And doing it with manifold is also much easier.
@@thehilltopworkshop Sure, I'll watch it, but 1 model isn't "overwhelming majority", which is what I addressed. "Overwhelming majority" pre-emissions were manifold. Ported only became commonplace because of emissions. Pretty well-documented if you look around.
A lot of our Mikuni/Solex carbs (in the UK) were built with the Automatic, WaxStat choke set-up (a terrible idea when new - even worse when the car is a few years old as it starts sticking on and causes the Car to run terribly) rather than the cable operated choke. Have you ever done the manual choke carb top conversion onto the automatic body? The body looks pretty much the same, just wondering if you'd done one and had good results from it?
I have a B&W PV1D that I left plugged into the main power during the Winter in an area that is susceptible to power surges. When I returned, I found no sound coming out of the unit. The small LED screen is black. Only the navigation soft buttons are operational as well as the B&W logo button. The small LED light turns blue from red when I turn on my sound system but that's about it. Where would you suggest I look? Fuse? If so, where is it? Out of warranty since I bought this in 2020, hence I'm asking here.
That sounds like something has fried in the logic/processor section. If the fuse had popped, it wouldn't power up at all. I'd say it's time to find a dealer. It also may be worth checking with your insurance to see if you're covered for damages like this.
