@@thehilltopworkshop Mine was all gunked up because the car's been sat about 30 years...I took as many pictures as I could of disassembly, but as I took it apart I had no idea where the weight and ball bearing fell out of.... This vid is a life saver, will use it again when I re-assemble.
the Mikuni 32-35DIDTA carb has 5 mounting bolts to attach to the manifold ... 4 hexagon head bolts are easy to locate around the double barrels opening, in a rectangle configuration, ... where's the fifth bolt ?
hey mate great video, and the second one was even better ! thanks ...has helped me get my head round this carb, i have an isuzu 4zb1 in an Austin 12 of 1936 !!!....my on going problem is I have fuel continually leaking from primary venturi ....any ideas? cheers dude
Provided your float level is good and it's not just having a bit of a flood, that sounds like it has a blocked or non-functioning idle circuit. I'd make sure the idle solenoid is working (you should hear it click when you turn the ignition on) and that the idle circuit is clear. My money would be on the solenoid. 👍
thanks mate , solenoid is good...float is plastic and not adjustable but needle seems fine....wasted all day on it ...ive an idea for tomorrow... wondering if the return route may be blocked through acc pump? \ ... cheers fella
A lot of our Mikuni/Solex carbs (in the UK) were built with the Automatic, WaxStat choke set-up (a terrible idea when new - even worse when the car is a few years old as it starts sticking on and causes the Car to run terribly) rather than the cable operated choke. Have you ever done the manual choke carb top conversion onto the automatic body? The body looks pretty much the same, just wondering if you'd done one and had good results from it?
Hey there Mr. Asshole! Can't say I'm familiar with that particular vehicle.I don't think we got it here in Australia. That said, I imagine the same carburettor was used across a wide range of vehicles.
