Saw one of these trolleys in a cracker barrel and have been trying for the longest time to figure out what it was and what it was used for. Thanks for satisfying my curiosity!
You guys still using the easy way hay loader i saw one of them a l62 same model as mine sell at an Amish auction in peebles ohio last Saturday for 2k in considerably more worn condition than mine although restored i haven't gotten mine done yet due to other stuff needing done I also got a hayloft barn rail for $1!!!!! So i no longer need to look for one and the knife blades for my horse mowers for half the price of new
How do I see the bale case over loose hay: Pros: 1. Compacted hay(takes less space) and is more convenient to maneuver when feeding, 2. Faster and less work intensive time to barn(your loose hay system may work better, else loading and unloading loose hay is usually done by hand), 3. Countable units of hay(better for sale). Cons, in this order: 1. High cost of equipment(including maintenance) 2. Hay needs to be better dried(risk of mold, even fire), 3. Less desirable to cattle(always prefers loose hay).
Everyone on Earth should see this video. The farm implements are from years ago. This is so beautiful to watch this history. THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS
Awesome! Vane type pumps are still pretty popular, I didn’t realize they went back that far. I use a piston style vacuum pump from 1939 and it still works great! That stuff was built to last!
Nice, , you still using that hay loader? I finally found new wheels for my ihc no9 sickle bar mower, but am doing some side stuff to get a 1888-1920 frick size 0 sawmill up and running so I can use my trees to build the hayloft barn I want before I start working on the horse drawn equipment
Here's the link to the Ferguson 35 video... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uLUry11WOy8.html and the link to the TO-30 video.... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jJGAAhFztTw.html
Don't know if it applies to the 8N, but the Ferguson TEA 20 requires the PTO to be engaged so that the draft control function works and eliminates the wheel spin that you are getting. There's an old 1950's Ferguson video clip on YT that explains draft control. Maybe worth trying with your PTO system engaged?
I've had to cut open and spread out so many bales in the hayloft over the years because the weather demanded we bale before the hay was dry enough. And that can save the quality of the hay so it doesn't mold or heat. But it is never perfect. The loose hay that we have put up always breaths well. It makes some very sweet hay. The cows love it. But as you say it is not time efficient.
The SRF is such a fun car. I completely agree, once you’ve driven a purpose built race car you never view street cars (even highly prepared) the same way again.
I guess this underscores the wisdom of the Pennsylvania style barn with ground level access to both the bottom level and the hay loft. It seems like it would be worth the effort of building an earthen ramp up to the rear of the hay loft. I guess they are called Bank Barns.
What paint did you use, looks great! I know you mentioned industrial paint from Napa but do you have a brand name and particular colors? I have a 1950 8N that’s going to need to be restored.
8n. Sway bars and a single 16 inch well work plow. If a plow is old and looks like it has never been used, it us because it is one of many that are poor design and never worked. Find a plow that looks like it is almost worn out. That's the one to buy.
Great side by side comparison. We have three Jersey's, Opal (who is due to calve soon) Prime and Chuck. You could not ask for better cows, very sweet, loving cows who are remarkably nimble. Ours are chow hounds and we use them with our goats to clear wooded sections of our farm. Great workers. We believe in giving our stock the most love and affection possible, knowing that when the day comes to send them off, they enjoyed life to the fullest and never lacked for anything. Not easy for most people but I think it translates into the best beef possible. It also shows in the quality and taste of the milk, nothing better.
The baler compresses the hay. Essentially, for the same volume of loose hay you now get nearly 3 times the weight in baled hay for modern balers. Allowing you to transport and store nearly 3 times the amount of baled hay as that of loose. This is revolutionary for large farms that produce a lot of hay.
Thanks for the video's! Bought an old farm and acreage, but as a cottage and mechanized getaway (sleds, atv's, etc). We are in the process of rebuilding our hay trolley in our hundred year old barn for general purpose lift purposes and just because! We were puzzled how hay gets in and out of the barn, and the lack of any opening suitable for a tractor! Your videos illustrates perfectly! We did frame a 12x12 door so the tractor and toys can be inside from the weather. Ripping out and removing tons of old hay with a tractor grapple was a chore! Incredible how woven together and tough it is to rip hay out from an old pile. I'm happy for you and your kids... Enjoy!
Great video I just found this device a hay trolley tryna see what it is thanks for the video now I can see what it is… so in the middle of video I believe that it showed that you had done like a full makeover on a hay trolley and you know obviously using it that is pretty awesome. I’d like to know more about that And is that something I don’t think a lot of people are doing that though, rightthat’s pretty old-fashioned which is awesome more power to I’m just kind of curious how I would like to sell the one I have maybe something I should restore first
Yes good point you made about log splitters not caring about fresh or wet wood. I've been hand splitting for 15 years (about 5 cords a year) and finally broke down to buy an electric wood splitter (not this model though), and it has certainly opened up my window of opportunity when it comes to splitting green or freshly downed wood! This part I didn't really factor in with my justification of why it would be beneficial for me to invest in a log splitter so it was a noticeable bonus. When I was splitting with a maul normally I needed to let my scrounged "green" logs dry-age a few months first to get the wood a little more brittle in order to offset any stinginess that hold the logs together. As you said this narrows the window of time I have to split my logs and wood starts to pile up. Now I can work more methodically when I'm ready at a no rush pace. Mauls are great, but when the log is damp and stringy, instead of splitting it often flexes only to grab the maul blade where you need to pry it out for another swing. The next swing can almost be like starting over again because when you repeatedly whack the log it doesn't necessarily record your energy or hold your place in the split so your not always building any sort of compounded force towards progress. This wastes energy and gets tiring after a while, but also beats up an aging body with more bending and noodling around. Alternatively the continuous force of the Hydraulic ram can power through the full length of the log tearing and even cutting through stringy wood fibers which solves the problem keeping progress moving along! Another bonus I discovered was if the wood is already brittle or of an easy split species, say birch, beech, or maple, then the ram needs only to penetrate 2 to 3 inches before popping that sucker open. This means many times you need only 3 or 4 second cycle times! So if your machine says 13 or 16 second cycle time, that's only for stringy wood that requires the full piston stroke of the ram in order to separate difficult wood that's bound together like elm, or knotty woods. The only time I use my maul now is to break down wood too large or dangerous to hoist up on the splitter bed, or to help split down wood the machine couldn't split (Which is rare). Sometimes the maul needs to intervene due to odd shaped logs with grain going every ridicules direction. An oddly shaped log might not sit well positioned on the splitting bed for optimal directional force. In these rare or infrequent cases it's nice to have mauls waiting to assist you.
Just a note. In 1963 we got our hay loader for the first time. I was 16 years old and in great physical farm-boy shape, and the one on the back of the truck. Since most hayfields have irregularities in the landscape, the person on the back of the truck needs to be very agile and be able to maintain upright while loading the hay. Also, when the load nears the top, the person loading is standing on the edge (rear) could slide off the truck into the hay loader pickup part if the driver suddenly increased speed. My father had a hard time maintaining a steady speed. A few times I had to deal with a sudden lurch of the truck forward. Never fell but did get scared of doing so. Thanks for sharing. Oh, one more thing. because the hay loader delivers the hay in one continuous blanket, the entire load is weaved like one big ball. Tearing apart the ball when unloading is much harder than one loaded by hand.
What a joy! I'm working with nearly identical equpiment, but a few years newer: a Ferguson TO30 (1955ish) and a Case manure spreader, much like yours, but mine has sheet metal sides, and the apron drive covered in sheet metal, as you described. Your work is inspiring! Maybe I'll clean mine up a bit after watching!
The place where you can't seem to grow anything may have been exposed to glyphosate. If that is the case you can grow a couple of seasons of GMO glyphosate resistance grops, which contain the enzyme which can metabolize glyphosate, then you should be able to resume growing ordinary non-GMO crops.
The reason you are plugging up on the outer end is that the end shoe has a very blunt skid plate that is sliding out in the uncut grass. You have to get that pointed, and adjusted so it slides along under the shoe in the cut stubble.
