Custom car and truck builder in Spokane WA. Building unique builds, 4x4 conversions, V8 swaps, etc. If you love fabrication, you've found the right place!
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I didn't know they made something like that of that size. I used to use small ones with acetone and lectra clean to wet cleaning swabs for electronics work
I bought a FC-90 mainly just to quickly tack parts in place, then breaking out the arc welder to finish up the weld. I was truly amazed at how thick of material that little machine can handle. 1/4 inch was no problem with good Lincoln FC wire. My only complaint is it starts really hot so it easy to blow holes, even turned down. It doesn't like a long extension cord. Full 15 amp 120v input power needed, even happier when fed from a 20 amp 120 v socket. It has become my favorite grab and go machine.
In regards to the fuel system, there is no reason to keep the factory ffm when you install a superior water separator/filter system so removing it is the right choice, it would only be a point of restriction and possibly leak later on, the factory ffm is leak prone. The tap is not for removing water it is a bleeder for exactly what you're using it for, it's for after a filter change to bleed off air. The fitting on the top of the injection pump can be changed for a proper 3/8 fitting, it's a -4 orb that can be adapted to an, pipe or hose barb. The factory lift pump is definitely a problem, they do not put out enough fuel in stock form, if you ran a fuel pressure gauge before switching to the air dog you would have seen the pressure start at a low 5-6psi drop to or nearly 0 when free revving which only would be worse underload. Switching to an air dog, Carter, fast etc. pump will definitely increase reliability, both because as you stated less aerated fuel and also having enough fuel to not starve the injection pump with the added benefit that the excess fuel pumped by these pumps helps cool the injection pump. Also to note with your 95 keep an eye on your coolant temps, for reliability it is advised to switch to the 99+ water pump as it flows 130gph vs 80gph and it feeds both sides 50/50 vs 30% to the passengers side and 70 to the driver's side which as you can guess will typically warp the passengers head and blow a head gasket more frequently. While you're at it swapping to a Duramax fan isn't a bad choice either. When it comes to doing front wheel bearing I have found that in my case (I also have a 95) it was the same money to swap to the gmt800 knuckles with new bearings, lower control arm bushings, ball joints, calipers, pads and rotors as it was to replace the factory bearings, I would highly advise taking this route as the brakes are far superior and will definitely help especially if you plan to tow. Lawrence "LT" Tolman does a pretty good video on his channel. He mentions using LD 2500 parts but i have used 2500HD/3500 parts when doing mine, only real difference is it uses different outer tierod ends, i used MOOG ES409RT.
Haha. Thats not how that works. If what you’re saying is correct, would the temperature be higher or lower under the elbow since it’s “stagnant”? Water flows through the radiator into the tank. It doesn’t matter where you get the water from in that tank as long as the tank is full enough that air is not introduced. The lower the better for that, but the elbow is low enough.
@@DeathTollRacing yes the water will flow somewhat because the water around it is moving but it will not be flowing the way it should be. Its a crossflow rad so the flow of water will be filling one side from the top and flowing across the rad horizontaly and by moving the lower outlet up you are allowing the water a shorter path, its not going to flow aIl the way to the bottom and then across just for the hell of it. sure it will be fine for your street driven fun having truck just saying its not 100%
@@tristanmerrill7563you’d be surprised how many factory and aftermarket radiators are setup like this. Especially these newer cars with zero space under the hood. Go look up a ford transit radiator 😂. Neither is at the top or the bottom.
I was going to mention that too but couldn’t think of an example. I’m pretty sure the new powerstroke radiator is that way too but can’t remember for certain
I'm running a Hobart handler 140 mig and flux cored welder. Does absolutely fantastic and makes some STRONG welds. Just have to have your feed rollers and wire spool tensioned just right. Once you get that just right it runs smooth as silk. Some things I love about your machine is it's very lightweight, runs smooth and produces a beautiful and strong weld. Great job on those welds/beads. You got me wanting one of those.
When you flipped the wire from one machine to the other the century started sounding like the titanium did on the first test there's something going on with that wire I wonder if it's inconsistent flux?
I don't understand why anyone would push there's no advantage to it it's clumsy it just doesn't feel right I do push pull when I need extra deep penetration of developed this little method I don't know if if it's a known used talked about method I don't generally go on forums or anything but where I will either go in a little circles so I overlap and get deeper penetration or to a real rapid push pull it gets the joint hot and then super hot but you have to kind of regulate temperature and a slight pause time in order not to overheat the joint. But you can get noticeably better penetration by doing it if there's a need to do that I rarely do it. I do go in little circles all the time and that seems to do kind of the same thing it's like you feel the center of the circle even though it's filled already but to describe the way it overlaps and you actually get a pretty little joint that way but those are all pulls with a little bit of a push when you're going back on the top of the circle for lack of a better terminology little tiny tiny circles make nice joints
Pushing doesn’t penetrate nearly as well. That gives me a video idea actually. Weld in three positions and etch the results. 🤔 Sometimes on thin material it’s helpful to push to avoid burn through.
Would you need a tab welded on the new radiator hose connection for support in the middle of the elbow? That’s would seem to be a lot of weight hanging off the end of the radiator that could cause your new weld to crack from vibration. Just my $0.02 worth.
Excellent presentation, but it's way to advanced for some of us (me. I'm not 'smart' man). I'll presume that the 50 ft 12guage plug is into a 110 outlet? What else do i need to know to: A) not be electrocuted? B) not be burnt? C) not be blinded? D) not burn the shop down? E) not blow up the machine?
Having had extensive experience with the 6.2 in the 80's and the 6.5 in the 90's, the number 1 thing is to refrain from "hot rodding" them. The failures are no worse than the failures of the present day Cummins, Duramax and the Powerstroke.
@@Christophertruck right on. The early Lincoln aluminum blocks are better, but there are some differences. I haven’t blown up the explorer engine yet though. 😂
