exceptional Review . i tested Initio yesterday on (cloth , skin , paper ) and i completely agree with the expansion theory of Side Effect Initio Parfum-it's fascinating how the notes evolve and Expands over time may be its the vision behind naming it "Side Effects". However, I feel like it's more aimed at a younger crowd. As a 39-year-old guy, I find it doesn't quite resonate with me the way it might with someone younger
@@ahmedsamir7582 bro, I’m 40 and I definitely feel you; this is not my vibe as it’s too sweet and youthful. My issue is that a lot of kids don’t have the disposable income for this and end up going to clones. Interesting thought about the “side effect” naming 👍
Funnily enough. I sold Side effect recently. Was a blind buy a long time ago, never wore it. All I got from it was a pretty dull medicinal rum note done quite badly imo, and some cherry-like over the top sweetness over some amber woods. Didn't get much vanilla or anything else. On the flipside, anyone I let smell it who isn't a fraghead generally loved it at first sniff, and they reacted like it's the best thing they've ever laid their nose on and those same people hate the stuff I would normally be into, leathers, oud, + anything pre Salmon Amouage.
@@zyk4n well yeah, it’s clearly targeted to the average Joe that is used to Dylan Blue, and this is with absolutely no offense intended. Horses for courses as they say 😜
I like side effect, smells very sythetic but it is a mass pleaser loud fragrance, very very overpriced for the quality of it. Same as whole house of initio. But if you want loud, cold weather perfume, side effect might be the right choice.
@@Principemostprincipe thanks for the contribution! I have to admit it’s really not my thing as I don’t even gravitate towards these scents anyway. Angel’s Share is still my go-to 🙂
@@Principemostprincipe I have a sample of that, it's actually really good. I'll be talking about Oajan in the Angel's Share review as they are often compared.
You should have thrown Carlisle into that comparisson as well ! I think initio pdm etc are nice and quality frags that open the way to the deep rabit hole of niche perfumes.
Never loved side effect. Nice but basic, played out and not my vibe and I usually gravitate towards the tobacco vanille school of warm spicy date scents as opposed to the boozy ones (see: boundless 😂 btw still can't agree that boundless would be in the pdm or initio lineup at all, that resin and cumin is way too complex for those. My girlfriend says it reminds her of an old cabinet in her house and itches her nose in good and bad ways because of it) I tried to like initio paragon as well but the plum accord is way too synthetically candy sweet, which is a shame because the aromatic opening almost made me want to like it for a daily wear, but the sweetness was not my style at all.
Well yeah, this one is pretty basic. I also really like Tobacco Vanille and that general scent profile, even if simple. And I really do like Boundless, I'm even considering getting a bottle! I just happen to find it one of the more likeable and more approachable releases from Amouage. That is not a bad thing at all and I'm happy Amouage has these types of entry points to the brand. If every fragrance was Imitation Man the brand would go bankrupt :D
@@SeldomlyOften oh for sure I just think even then it's a bit of a challenging starter point all things considered, pretty unknown grounds for a designer / shopping mall niche fan going into it and only feeling familiar with some sweetness and Amberwood. Gateway drugs are great
Would you be able to compare it to another perfume you think is strong? I'm just curious because everyone's situations and evaluation methods are different and 100% valid.
It's definitely not indicative of the beach. The name must refer to the hut itself. Wet, mossy wood. An overgrowth of ivy. A thatched roof of island vetiver. It's cool and greee, with just enough of a dark, resonous heart to make it weird (in a very good way). There's no better house in the perfumery game, and this one might be my favorite from them.
I just love people's description of Amouage fragrances, it just shows how great they are at conveying a mood and at sparking imagination. Thanks for the comment :)
I thought I was the only one to not smell almost anything in Sauvage. So flat and almost nothing. The elixir flanker is a different story, I can smell it well and I love. I can smell BR540
Elixir is objectively a really great fragrance that doesn't smell cheap at all. I have never given BR540 a full wear so it might develop during that... I'll try to cover it in an impression video.
Easily a Top 5 of all time for me. Utter perfection. And also my first experience with Ropion! I have and love Promise as well - an absolute beast but it’s far less versatile. I LOVE the way FM features the perfumers and wish all houses would follow suit. Great video, thanks! 🙏🏻
Yes, I truly think that all artistic and niche perfumery should showcase the perfumer. By not doing that you are taking away credit, diminishing the effort and de-valuing the product. People who like art usually also like to know about the artist.
Wholly endorse your opinion on Side Effect and Initio in general. I feel like Initio scents are developed in a lab by AI. Indeed, I don't think they identify their perfumers, so maybe I'm right lol! I received an official sample of SE in an order of something I bought and sprayed it on a blotter just to see. OMG. When you said you were doing three sprays, I actually said "no!!!" To my nose, it is nuclear, and not in a good way. I don't think SE is ambroxan heavy. Ambroxan has gotten a bad name (though I honestly don't think 90% of the people who complain about it have any idea what it smells like.) It has a mild smell that is a little marine and a little woody. When overdosed, it can be headache inducing though. Instead, SE has an overdose of some sort of synthetic woody amber material (not a perfumer, so not sure which). I'm not a hater of these materials either because, when used appropriately, they can work just fine. However, in SE it is overdosed to such an extent that it's hideous. There is a market for it because it is an incredible fixative and projects like crazy, but it's also scratchy and unpleasant in large amounts. As for hedione, I hope Initio is not claiming they are the first to use it. Yikes, that would be Edmond Roudnitska in Eau Sauvage (1966). In isolation, it has a faintly floral smell, but it is used to amplify and shape other ingredients, particularly citrus notes, to make them more 3D. If SE uses it, I can virtually guarantee that no one can smell it because the other ingredients would overpower it. I have not tried the Atkinsons but it sounds nice. For another refined take on the genre, maybe try Jovoy - Pavillion Rouge. Sounds similar to the Atkinsons but they also work in a tea note that it dries down to, which I had never experienced before (tea usually being a mid note). It's a little too well-behaved for my taste but it is a lovely take on the genre. Keep up the good work. Really enjoying your content!
@@DaveNYC thanks for the insightful comment. Yes, I wrongly, immediately refer to ambroxan when thinking about a synthetic fixative but you are right, it’s often amber woods. In any case, SE smells ‘empty’ to me; sure, it develops to a degree but never goes nuclear on my skin.
Imo Side Effect is the best "datenight"-fragrance bar none - there's hardly any fragrance that can keep up with it in terms of attractiveness - surely one of the very best options if you go on a date and want to make an impression, and it's in my favorite top 3 fragrances of all time - If I were single again going on dates, I'd definitely get a decant for specifically those occasions.. Other than that, it's not a highly complex scent and pretty entry-level niche right after Naxos & Layton, but it is pretty likable, oozes class, attractiveness and it smells expensive & 'magical' - sort of like a smoky cherry-based rum
@@joolean7799 I totally get that the fragrance is a mass appealing attractive option, maybe even one of the best, for a date night; when interacting with non frag heads you have to use an approachable, common, language. I would never go to a first date wearing Amouage Interlude, it’s just way too weird and distracting.
Just quickly: Hedione by itself has a mild floral smell with a bit of a jasmine tint to my nose. I believe its psychoactive effect is a myth. Many modern perfumes utilise hedione in high doses (10-30% of the concentrate) to add "floral spacing" to the composition. In this structural role, it is used similarly to Iso E Super, which by itself has a soft woody-amber smell for most people. You can make very simplistic modern-smelling perfumes using lots of hedione and Iso E Super for 70% or more of the mix, plus a few characteristic other components (like musks, vanillin and boozy ethers or esters). I have never smelled Side Effect, but from your description it might be built in a similar way... (Amazing that you cannot smell BR540. Like Oud for Greatness, it contains tons of ethyl maltol, which should be detectable by its typical cotton-candy smell, whether or not you can smell the other major components, i.e. ambroxan and evernyl...)
Thanks for the interesting information! I never smelled any of these compounds on their own so I don't really have a reference. All I know is that modern fragrances that lean into the boosting synthetics have a really 'empty' smell to them, like if something is supposed to be there but I can't smell it. BR540 does this to me, Side Effect had this feeling but then fill out somehow.
@@HansHase78 my girlfriend cannot smell br540 at all either. Full on paper and on skin, nothing. It's crazy. Even for myself it's not too strong so I am a little confused about it haha
@@LeoR4U I do like plum but it’s not a note I’m particularly sensitive to so I don’t really seek out fragrances with it. I’ll try some more Initio perfumes for sure though 🙂
Great video and comparison! I didn't like Side Effect when I originally smelled it. I found it too strong and it gave me a headache. A few months later I wore it out seeing friends at a bar, and wow, I fell in love with it and bought a bottle. A new fav for the winter.
@@SeldomlyOften I have a collection with several others from Initio: Blessed Baraka, Paragon, and some others from the Carnal collection. Blessed Baraka (sweet, amber, sandalwood) and Paragon (purifying, plum, palo santo) are both amazing scents, I recommend sampling those ones if you can find em!
One dimensional is pretty much how I'd describe Side Effect. Couldn't even justify a clone for layering. Can't remember what the Atkinsons smells like, so I appreciate your take.
Totally agree with the lack of depth and dimension in Side Effect. Unless one considers the “ooh, we’re good and unique, and therefore pricey” marketing as a dimension. I never understood the hype and it is hard to be respectful in a comment about it. Let’s just say it doesn’t effect my side.
@@gerardzonjee I think a lot of the effect of PDM and Initio are that they cover fragrance families not usually found in the designer real, namely boozy, ambery dark stuff and gourmands. To anyone graduating from that wow effect these brands are really basic.
I don’t like initio or parfums de marley fragrances. They smell synthetic to me - nothing wrong with that, but it’s synthetic in a bad way(to me). For the price, I can do better.
@@richardbaptist5080 agree, I don’t like dunking on a brand but I can really smell the type of ingredients they are using and I’m the kind of person who will trade quality for outright performance.
I find Initio to smell much more synthetic than PDM. Aside from the synthetics that PDM openly discloses their use of (ambroxan, cashmeran etc), I can more or less smell the natural raw ingredients in PDM, despite them being composed in a very safe, simple way. But I havent smelled any Initios that I would consider "natural smelling". The Hedonist collection is the closest they come to more natural smelling blends imo.
@@silentsir2446 Well, even just for research purposes and to expand my mental database, I'll be sampling some more. Definitely staying away from blind buys though.
I'm always happy to hear someone talk about Atkinson's, it's a shame it does not get more attention. Years ago I really liked their Oud Save the King, and more recently their 24 Old Bond Street. I do see what you mean by the off-putting nature of their marketing and the nobility/luxury theme that can come accross as pretentious, similarly to Penhaligon's. Another aspect that's a bummer is that the majority of their fragrances are more fresh & vegetal compositions that have abysmal longevity, which is frustrating knowing they are not cheap at all. That being said Pirate's Grand Reserve is one that I like quite a bit, soft vanilla and cacao, I never really picked up the rum or boozy facets of it sadly, but it's an enjoyable one. It reminds me a bit of Houbigant's Mon Boudoir, which is more centered on the powdery vanilla and less cacao, you might like it as well. Nice video !
@@ryujinzengen6053 thanks for the lengthy comment! What I meant about the marketing is that I’m not really intrigued about the usual Brit gentleman’s approach. They feel cheap and unimaginative for some reason, especially when brands don’t really bother modernizing. Penhaligon’s was my exception, they have a quirky classic style that can pass also as modern.
Very thorough comparison! I haven’t tried Pirates Grand Reserve, but Atkinson’s does have some quality releases! They’re definitely underrated! The Oud line is very impressive, especially considering the price you can pick them up for on discounters. The Other Side of Oud is a beautiful coffee-oud fragrance that walks a similar path as Black Afgano. It would awesome to see a side-by-side comparison of those two! I own Black Afgano, but I’m considering adding The Other Side of Oud to my collection as well! Also, (I can’t remember which) Oud Save the King or His Majesty the Oud is comparable to a smokier version of Noir Ambre from Issey Miyake. At least that’s what I picked up from my sample. I plan to sample those two again this fall!
You arent missing a thing. Once i figure out how to sell fragrances my bottle of side effect is gone. Its just basic. Its far too light and leaves you wanting another layer thats just not there.
@@blagojmilosevski9547 the drydown, where all the incense is, is pretty similar to be completely honest. Black Iris comes across as more powdery so I guess it could emphasize the smoke? I’m reaching 🤣
@@DamageMelody I have a decant on the way. As per my understanding it’s a fougere. In that case I would say Beach Hut or Imitation but those should be quite different as they are substantially different from each other.
although I don’t like this frag, but the way you say, the confidence and passion at the same time, it’s magic 🤷🏻♀️ i need to go and re-sniff, ok. there must be something in it, that i cannot see yet. there must be something special, or you wouldn’t be that impressed. thanks for inspiration, as always. love you channel ❤
@@baba_s_kosoy thanks so much for the comment. This is definitely one of those scents which needs to be allowed to “do its thing”; give it a full committed wear and don’t think too much about it, I bet it will win you over by the end of the day. Or not! And it’s totally fine 👍
Very helpful. I have never gotten into Nishane for a variety of reasons, most of which you covered. But I thought this might be one I would enjoy. Honestly, it doesn’t sound that weird from your description. And it sounds fairly complex given the transitions! But I think I know what you’re getting at. It’s not going to be a crowd pleaser like Ani, that much is clear. I’ll have to get a sample and report back. Have you tried Guerlain Vetiver (classic or new parfum)? The scent profiles actually sound quite similar (tho the house styles are obviously not!). Would be interesting to know if you can draw any comparisons.
@@DaveNYC to me this vetiver type is completely different from your usual gentlemen’s scent like the Guerlain, this is a recreation of a jungle environment of sorts, it’s not necessarily meant to smell like a perfume, even though they have the same base ingredient. I’m not a huge fan of traditional vetivers, there are exceptions, but they are a little boring to me as a concept.
I am wearing it right now, two sprays from the store on my arms and hands. I somehow disagree it is a linear fragrance. The opening and the dry down are a bit different; the opening is kind of have that off putting part with the herbal, incense, cannabis note, but the drydown gets so appealing, smoky, sexier, and sweeter. My mother did not like it at all during the first hour but actually ended up loving it in the drydown
@@bubukill1 well, these are all relative terms, to me it’s linear compared to other stuff like a lot of Amouages. All fragrances change to a degree and usually get smoother as they dry but some are really mean to transition to various “stages” or even vibes.
Have you tried nouveau monde? I just had visited a LV boutique for the first time this weekend and sprayed on my favorite "oud" and and side by side i tried nouveau monde next to ombre nomade and nouveau monde won me over. Raspberry accord replaced with a chocolate one in the opening and some ginger zing/brightness in the heart. Definitely a little more leathery than it is oud-ey though. Wondering if you had any experience or any comments on it. It not i do recommend! My favorite freshies were l'immensite and orage probably. Afternoon swim was amazing too but i literally felt it fade away from the card LOL
While they do not have the brand listed on their website, Stemma (stemmacosmetics Thessaloniki, Greece) have Zaharoff in store, I guess because the guy is Greek and he actually visits the shop sometimes, I was told. Try to contact them directly, I'm almost certain they'll accomodate you with some samples, they're very nice people.
I am a malle lover- as overpriced as their sh*t is- but have never liked the overbearing rose of POaL. But i find even w some scents that are really not appealing to my affinities there is often something in the base musk or the smoothness of the composition that still makes it addicting in the end- like carnal flower- very floraly in a way i usually wouldnt like if anyone else made it but they did it just right somehow where it appeals to me. I would recc their fragrance promise as one of the only truly photorealistically boozy scents, and one that goes under the radar both for them and in jean claude ellena's portfolio is heaven can wait-a very french composition w a domestic feel but the pear and ambrette base contrasts in a way that is very beautiful. Musc ravageur is one of a kind in the sense that its one of those gimmicky fragrances so many houses do for publicity and shock reactions- but it actually stands on its own as a beautiful fragrance that feels like it was done for the artistry and not the gimmick (the gimmick being that this smells like you used a cinnamon roll as a fleshlight, not joking, if you smell it youll know what i mean, but somehow it actually works). L'eau d'hiver is another malle x ellena collab that is very faint but very beautiful as well imo. Also reccomending this for anyone who wants to see if frederic malle is their vibe but cant afford it- 1 their site has a thing where theyll send you 3 or 4 samples of your choosing for a decent price and 2- scentville is a dupe house on etsy and they are usually quite good, a bit hit or miss- however so many of the malle scents from them are truly spot on if you want to get your nose on them without paying ridiculous prices- also im not affiliated w them lol)
@@EvWuzhere “cinnamon roll as a fleshlight” made me genuinely laugh out loud 🤣 I have a sample of it and will not be able to unsee this, I’ll try it on a first impression video soon. I’m intrigued by En Passant but I’m scared it will be too light. Promise is HIGH on my list.
In fact, if you love POaL, i would suggest just buying scentville's recreation of the moon- a very similar dark rosey incenseyness like POaL, but w oud, that really captures the original (which is astronomically priced for no damn reason) but imo is a little more wearable bc its not quite as strong- though still very nuclear, you only need one spray
@@SeldomlyOften im curious what you will think of musc rav because everyone has such a different account of it- and even many of the people who like it still say it has a bit of a urinal cake accord on skin like so many early vintage fragrances had
Questo è un profumo che quando lo sentii per la prima volta rimasi in silenzio, nemmeno dissi wow. In silenzio per la cotanta maestosità di questa fragranza e dal turbinio di emozioni che mi persuasero. Non riuscirei mai a portarlo oggigiorno avendo solo 23 anni e non mi sento ancora abbastanza sicuro di me stesso per farlo , però ho ordinato un campioncino da 5ml giusto per sentirlo. Magari un giorno chissà.
@@sebastianveri8602 stessa reazione da parte mia: silenzio contemplativo. Si, capisco che a 23 anni non sia proprio adatto ma sono contento che tu abbia preso il campioncino 🙂
@@AydinAzarpey Noir de Noir is darker and more gourmand. The latest formulations don’t last as long but it have a nice gothic type of magic to it. Similar vibes but more specific and less versatile.
funny this is my fav. wear it a lot but its kinda mauled other fragrances because of its performance. all the other stuff is great but its the first S tier performance fragrance ive had. it just lasts so long, has so much projection and i can smell it ages after putting it on
So glad that you loved POAL! It's a staple, a masterpiece! Not very unique today, but when it release 14 years ago, It was very creative! Ropion is very good on flowers. On Frederic Malle Carnal Flower is an amazing opulent flower. FM is quite expensive that's true. But quite qualitative (not all like Uncut Gem that's uninteresting for example). If you want best deals, I don't know in Switzerland, but the grey market is remarquable in France and it's easy to find 30% retail price.
And I remember You saying in another video how Xerjoff have boring dry downs. You cannot be more true! Basically they are contracted on a really similar formulas based strongly on amber woods and also sickly sweet. Xerjoff have an agressive marketing and base their sales on the bottle lets be honest : Xerjoff released 41 references between 2021 et 2023 that's crazy this have cannot be creative. A lot of their fragrances are redundant. Not bashing, but for the persons who really love good perfumery, Xerjoff is not a worthy brand. And in my opinion, you seems to not falling into Xerjoff marketing! Don't lose moire time trying Xerjoff ;-) Some good brands I love, very qualitative and moreover : fairly priced!!! Voyages Imaginaires, Parfums d'empire, Meo Fusciuni, Naomi Goodsir, Une nuit nomade.
@@franceiroca agree, moreover, many of those perfumes don’t even have a perfumer name attached to them. Makes the house seem ever more greedy and commercial. Thanks again for the recommendations 🙂
And by the way, If you want to try challenging quality fragrances I urge you to try Frederic Malle the Night & Parfum d'empire Ruade. The best interpretations of oud on the market. Not occidental oud. Those ar challenging but very well executed.
I don't tried Nishane, but I know a lot of Xerjoff : this brand is overhyped! Their fragrances are very synthetic & artificial and completely overpriced regarding the quality/retail price ratio. Honestly a house like Xerjoff that release so much references each year cannot be good.
@@franceiroca Xerjoff is definitely a commercial brand but I will admit that they are good at creating full smelling, long lasting fragrances. Are they overhyped and overpriced? Sure 👍
@@SeldomlyOften That's basically the problem : nowadays the prices hiked up so much, people WANT performances to having the feeling that it's money worthy. And that's why so much perfumes are similar because they are based and nuclear amber woods to boost performances, and to everyone being able to smell you from 200m... but a screaming perfume is usually not very well balanced.
I love it as well but price is a big letdown here, even on discounters websites, prices are not the greatest. As the owner of lots niche fragrances, i would not pay 300€ for anything. I might grab partial on the groups soon. Really love POAL, its such an unique smelling stuff
Interesting rose fragrance, good review, do you have city rythm Miami, I wanna have your opinion on it, I want to know if it is worth it for the price.
Interested to know what did you pick as a best rose based scent. And it’s a different kick when you hear a reviewer saying the signature scent for life will be Reflection 45, my absolute favourite and top of the list 👌🏻🔥. Great review as always.
@@Justsamshaikh thanks! The fragrance I found is not the best rose fragrance, it’s just exactly the one I was looking for. Again, nothing too out of the ordinary, I just stumbled upon the right thing for me 👍 Reflection 45 is objectively amazing and incredibly versatile, it really strikes the perfect balance, POAL is similar like that even if smelling nothing alike.