The Helios 44M-4? It's a nice lens, not the sharpest, but has funky swirly bokeh and doesn't look even a fraction its real age :) The only downside is no autofocus.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--O16hUK6FmU.html This is a very interesting video about different adapters and how the thickness of adapters is crucial for the lens to infinity focus.
Hi buddy, quick question- if I use an adapter WITHOUT the focus confirmation chip then also the camera exposure meter will work on half click right?? I plan to use a Takumar 28mm lens with my Canon 5D mk4 for street photography like a manual rangefinder camera. I don't need the focus confirmation but I surely need info From the light meter.
I´m a 3D-Artist for more than 10 years now and in all that time I´ve never laughed so hard at a tutorial 🤣 Oh....and the tutorial itself is perfect too! Thx man 👍
hello, could you update the links or say the exact name of the product to be able to search for it, I have bought several and I still can't find the model that works in the helios.
I'll need to take a look, but my links wouldn't necessarily be useful outside of the UK, as I can't provide relevant shopping links for everyone in the world +the product is literally just an "M42 to EF adapter". You basically need to inspect the product pics and see if the adapter has that "lip" for the pin or not. No other way around it. Ask the seller(s) for pics if you're in doubt. Another useful feature would be a focus confirmation chip, support for that one also varies by chip version, so check camera compatibility list (usually provided by the seller in the listing).
Hello Do anyone know Wher to get the refill powder for the lenspen not the tips or pads that are available but only the cheaper invisible version of the powder that's in the newest original lenspens, I think it's a wast to buy anytime a new lenspen instead to buy refill powders lije it's for laser printers with toners paint ? 🤔
This is an old model. They started with these and later introduced models with different shapes and expanded branding. I know it looks fake, but it wasn't.
Hey! Someone else had that issue as well and I'd have to dig out the project file from god knows where. Luckily....there's a tutorial you just watched that shows you EXACTLY how I made it. Don't be lazy :P
Your lens brush must now be covered in fingerprint oil, suppose its ok if you wash it occasionally and appreciate this is done as part of the demo so not being critical
Once animated, is it possible to bake the keys on the hose? so if I were to export it out to Unreal or something other software. FBX seems to collapse and animation is gone. Alembic, only works in Max.
It would be cool if you could unlock a summon of Chris Hansen, and he would have them "Take A Seat" to debuff their defense, then when they can't it anymore they run away and get bumrushed by like, 30 cops. And possibly tazed and piss themselves, like Qays Mahjoob did in the Long Beach episode. I love this game and gotta play it again. It's cute though and built good!! Sorry, couldn't resist.
@@monstersuxxio95 I haven't checked whether their VR/AR version is different from the regular one, but you can take a look at their website - they list all the products and what they do.
@@monstersuxxio95 letmegooglethat.com/?q=lenspen+VR You are wasting more time asking when you could just google it in 10s... I don't understand why you'd do that...
i have a question :o can you get equal photo quality to modern lenses? im thinking about buying a canon eos m and i dont need automatic focus and stuff i just want good pictures and i can set everything by myself :o i also heard that you should set your white balance because camers have trouble with the coutings of these vintage lenses
Hi! It's gonna be a longer read, but I hope it covers what you need to be aware of: To start with - it all really depends on the lens itself. Keep in mind that modern high-res digitals are far less forgiving to the imperfections of old lenses than film was. Some glass was also designed with B/W film in mind, so their color reproduction and contrast may also seem a bit lackluster (though can be pretty well-corrected in post). Aging coatings and glass mixtures can definitely be a problem especially with some Takumars and other "radioactive" lenses that went yellow over time due to UV exposure or age. Modern lenses generally have complex element shapes, coatings and glass mixtures to mitigate things like fringing, chromatic aberrations, etc - especially the higher up the price range you go. While there is indeed some cheap "modern" stuff out there that is pretty bad - old lenses that were originally cheap as well will have the same problems and then some. Any image stabilization is obviously out of the question with vintage lenses and - believe me - it's super helpful! Some vintage lenses might need tweaking/modifying or at least a different adapter (as they vary in thickness) to achieve infinity focus and sharp images. I've had to dremel-grind the mount of one of my lenses (a 1959 one lol) to achieve proper focus with my 5D Mark IV. Focusing in general is tricky. Old cameras had special focusing screens that made it easy to nail focus by eye - this is certainly the case with my Canon 1H, manual Zenit cameras I have, etc. Some early digitals had interchangeable focusing screens too, so you could buy a screen for manual focusing. Modern cameras don't have that. It shouldn't be much of a problem if you have focus peaking on a mirrorless camera, but keep it in mind. Old lenses, zooms, wides and telephotos in particular, also generally have lower maximum apertures than the modern glass. Unless it's something expensive - you're usually not going beyond f/2.8 or smaller. Primes like 50mm, 58mm or 85mm can be found with wider apertures, of course. Lastly - you'll be using a crop sensor camera. Old lenses are designed to cover a "full-frame" area (35mm film frame), so by using them on a crop sensor camera you will effectively be "zooming into" the center of the lens. Depending on how good or bad the lens is - the resolving power may be sub-par and you may notice a lack of detail/sharpness in your photos. On the plus side - you'll get less vignetting and fringing, since the crop sensor will never see the outer edges of the image circle the lens provides, and the worst imperfections are always away from the center. Now, *in summary* - I'd say get yourself at LEAST one proper lens for the camera you're buying. Things like autofocus, image stabilization, extra sharpness/clarity, etc - they all make your life easier, photography more enjoyable and images better in quality. Fighting your gear isn't always fun, despite what some youtube videos may tell you - I found that out for myself and you will too. Just imagine the things I can do with a modern 35mm F/2 autofocus lens with image stabilizations vs a vintage 35mm f/2.8 with no IS or autofocus. One will give me sharper results while letting me use a slower shutter (thanks to IS) and let in more light (thanks to F/2), while the other will now demand I raise the shutter speed to compensate for extra camera shake, the lens is slower so it gathers less light (likely even having to be stepped-down to F/3.5 or f/4 for a sharper result) making me raise the ISO (which adds more grain and reduces the dynamic range)...AND I can't conveniently autofocus... Does this sound like fun? I have both options available to me, by the way, so I'm talking from experience. Once you have at least one good lens that's fit for your camera - THEN look into vintage lenses. It'll give you a point of reference and you might even reconsider the "savings" you get by buying the old stuff. I certainly don't use my vintage lenses these days, beside a couple special ones for interesting bokeh (Helios lenses in particular). CAN you take great pics with old lenses? YES. Can they be sharp? Yes. But you'll need to do research into what you're buying and hope for a clean lens and a good copy of it to boot (no two lenses come off the production the same). I have tome terrible lenses that I never use and I have a couple of brilliant ones that I occasionally do use. But overall I'd only recommend vintage glass as a "play around" kind of a thing or if you know what you're doing, not as starter glass. I hope this was helpful :D
Hi is there any chance you can help me as police think I’m hearing things and won’t investigate and iv been turned into a series of evil psychological experiments on fb and so have family but no1 will believe me even though iv got proof, iv enhanced as much as I can but I need to remove some of the white noise that’s been amplified because of this, iv uploaded a few videos on my RU-vid
Really helped. Thank god my Takumars have the possibility for auto switch. I adapted a 50mm Pentax Super Takumar to my BMPCC 6K pro and it worked fine. Mindblowing results....
Yeah, the old glass is surprisingly good! I have an old 1959 soviet "Helios 40" 85mm f/1.5 lens that I had to adapt to my Canon 5D Mark IV and holy smokes is it a bokeh monster! But very difficult to focus, even with the focus confirmation from the camera :D
@@MaxTheManTV Fair enough. The only bugs I encountered in my playthrough were simple layering issues sometimes, when something is visually clipping a bit, but that's about it.