I know what you mean. I've been considering making my 76 into a 78 via a 1949-63 Olds Rocket V8. Supposedly they'll bolt up to the factory transmission and they have a front engine mount just like the original straight 6/8s that were in these (depth might be shorter but the cross member is drilled for both engines so a piece of 1/4 plate drilled appropriately would probably work as an adapter). If done right it could look factory and probably would be reversible.

@@tomcarlson3913 I meant stock straight 8. The Rocket was bigger, that means you might have to swap out the trans and the rear end. The stock straight 8 was only 257 cubes, so you probably wouldn't have to change the rest of the drive line.

@@jamesbosworth4191 I know what you meant with the straight 8. The reasons I like the V8 better is that it should be lighter and more powerful than the Straight 8, and not require modifying the radiator shroud for the forward rad position. The first generation Hydramatic my car has was used GM passenger cars from 1940-1955 including cars with the rocket V8, the Cadillac OHV V8 and the Cadillac Flathead V8 that preceded it so that transmission and a Rocket V8 were very much a GM factory combo only years after my car was built. The worn out Hydramatic that was in the olds died and I swapped in a an identical unit in much better condition.

@@tomcarlson3913 I know they all used Hydramatic. The issue is whether they used wider bands and thicker clutch packs in units destined for use with the Rocket.

They vary depending on where you live*, if the CRT is good, and condition. If there's a radio built in the value will be lower because of the size. With the CRT untested I'd ask $100 and take the first $40 offer. If the CRT tests good I'd ask $175 and take the first $80 offer. If the set works** well enough to light most of the screen to working perfect I'd ask $300 and take the first $150 offer (if you professionally restored it's electronics I'd stand firm at $250 unless desperate to sell). **If it has not been electrically restored (all lytic and paper capacitors replaced) in the last decade and hasn't been powered on in over 2 years DO NOT power it on unless you can do so using a metered variac or dim bulb tester...Otherwise you risk causing damage to irreplaceable parts. *There are markets where supply and demand are comperable (rust belt/midwest), where demand exceeds supply (California/parts of the south), places where supply exceeds demand (Paciffic North West, parts of the east coast), places where there isn't much supply or demand (Montana, poorer regions of the south). In places where there isn't demand it can be hard to give away a TV for free, and in places like California where demand is insane and supply is limited sets too bland to attract interest everywhere else are commanding prices interesting sets would anywhere else, and interesting sets are obscenely priced.

Thank you for the information.

Wait until you get to the heat part of the cataract removal. While removal/installation is definitely the most strenuous especially on a stereo combo (I done 3 combos so far), generally it's hard to screw up bad enough to get it to implode. When a tube is being heated by the sun the risk is greater especially if you're also using a heat gun (uneven heating can cause spontaneous implosion). Be careful picking out coves in the PVA to stick wedges in...If you get too agressive you can crack the safety glass and then the only way to salvage the tube is to carefully chisel the safety glass off without chipping the CRT face (had to do that on a RCA cataract recently and botched it...Quarter size chips in the CRT screen that I don't know what to do with).

Yeah, I live in Wisconsin.

@@tomcarlson3913 I have the same interests. Maybe we could meet someday and chat about restoring vintage TVs and such.

@@HD7100 Easiest place to find me is at the WARCI swapmeets. warci.org/

@@tomcarlson3913 It was just a thought. I only go to one or two swap meets a year and those are ham radio meets. I am also an amateur radio guy.

Possibly. I don't always comment, but I do watch and sometimes comment.

Yes and let's see how many of these LCD TVs work in 50 years! Lucky if you get 5 years out of them! Just keep in mind though in restoring these old TVs that you cannot receive over the air broadcasts on them anymore. You will need a digital RF converter box or send them NTSC video through an RF modulator. Any old beat up VCR can serve as a video/audio to RF modulator. (But still the VCR tuner wont work with digital TV.)

The basic procedure is dial the B&K 466 to "rejuvenate 1", wait until the needle has mostly settled, simultaneously push the rejuvenate button and as simultaneously as reflexes will allow whack the neck near the cathode of the gun you're trying to revive...The neck whack is recommended for remove shorts, but I've found it seems to make the odds of a successful rejuve less bleak. To be brutally honest I don't use rejuvenate 1 (let alone 2 or super-rejuvenate) on that tester (I forget when the last time was) unless a tube is so messed up that I consider it for all intents and purposes unusable junk before the rejuve (I usually favor prolonged normal testing at 1.4X rated heater voltage to pushing the button), and I tend to especially shy away from using it on color as it's pure luck (and that luck is mostly bad) if you can rejuve into good tracking. That tester rejuve button has blown the cathode emissive coating remnants off of and killed more tubes than it's saved (so it's a last ditch kill-or-cure measure)...Also the successes it's had tend to not last more than a few months. Through the magic of editing the over 15 min it sat at 8.4V with little emissions improvement shrunk to seconds of video....I basically saw enough to convince me the tube was toast and wasn't going to wake up and track on it's own, then took a dead tube and rolled the dice. I may try to flog some more life out of that tube but given the poor green even after rejuve and grayscale I suspect all I can expect out of it was that brief burst of life that allowed me to confirm the chassis was good.

I'm pretty sure the Muntz is a 27"...It looks bigger than a 1970's 25V color CRT.

I think I may have run across two 27"'as a kid in the 1980's picking things up off the street. They were huge and ugly to me at the time. One was a Magnavox and the other Golden Throat so must have been an RCA. I have two 24 inch I think... Crosley and Setchel Carlson. I saved them because they are so uncommon. Museum TV expert said CRT's were bad. He's super qualified, but would throw too many things away. I keep too many. Happy medium and balance somewhere in between. Great stuff from Dave at 36 minutes. I really appreciate your attitude and knowledge. You seem like a great guy and I'm sure we'd be friends if we weren't a thousand miles away. Stay well and thanks for putting up the videos.

I sold everything except the color Motorola (Keeping that indefinitely because the guy with the set that would replace it in my collection stood me up), the HD Sony (didn't bring to the ETF), RCA PX-17, 8" RCAs (didn't bring), 7" Philco(didn't bring), Sony U-matic (didn't bring), Magnavox (didn't bring), Speakers (Didn't bring), RCA CTC-4 (Didn't bring)...And a Admiral 19A11, and B&K 1077 analyst from my supplement video. The classifieds of videokarma is members only viewing, (the messaging systems there are members only also) videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=276570 Facebook look up Tom Electronicm.

No, but most 20's - mid 30's radios don't sound much better (if they don't sound worse than this). I don't own it anymore so there's no checking it now.

If you saw the photo on videokarma.org from when I pulled it out of the intermittently flooded TV shop basement it came from you'd be surprised it's the same set.

Yeah, about 90% of me read that email as the snake that bit me asking to kisss and make up or that Nigerian prince asking for another $50 to return the money you already set him...The other 10% found the idea that they put themselves into a bad spot by firing me and still had the gall to think I'd return after what they did (without even a word apology) amusing.

I don't think so. There may have been a 16BDP4 in the lot I got from Bob, but the smallest I know I saw was a 19".

I'll make sure it's at the ETF.

I don't often work out, but when I do it usually involves moving TV consoles.

@@tomcarlson3913 🙂 You don't need to work out when you've got those big TVs to lug about! You're obviously a very hard work.

I was unemployed at the time and over 2.5K for a rebuild was not going to happen...~$250 for a parts drive train, used engine hoist, and fluids on the other hand was doable. Also I couldn't find a shop within an hour of Waukesha that'd touch a hydramatic. It wasn't long after this video went out that I successfully made the swap...Editing all that footage was taking so long it's part of the reason my channel went dormant.

@@tomcarlson3913 I hope your ok and doing well brother .

No money for that, and there's a years worth of unreleased content filmed with the same smartphone that's waiting for editing and release..

It could be either the mic itself or the matching network on the base unit. The way to figure out which would be to swap the mike or handset for a known good specimen off of another phone and see if that improves things or not (if not it's the matching network). There were a wide variety of different handset designs among the different brands decades and models some are very easy to do mike swaps others not so much. It's not uncommon for a screw-on plastic cap over a mic or ear piece to get stuck (dirt and grease can get into the threads and act like glue, plastic can shrink at differing rates between pieces, etc). As long as it won't damage the plastic (check in an inconspicuous spot first) a penetrating oil like Pblaster, Kroil, or WD-40 dripped into the crack where the 2 pieces meet may help. Also it may help to get a tack cloth (something soft but slightly sticky) wrap it around the cap and get the strongest jar opener among the people you know and have them grab the cap with a rag and twist. Without knowing the make and model/having seen what phone you're working with that's about the best general advice I can give.

I only have ROKU and PC for streaming and I absolutely can record them to D-VHS. With the method in this video I can also make 1080i D-VHS personal backup copies of my small collection of HD-DVD and Blu-Ray movies if I want to. I run the HDMI outputs of all those sources through an HDMI matrix which strips off HDCP (a HDMI splitter box does the same and is very cheap compared to most of the devices shown) before feeding the matrix's HDMI output to the ATSC modulator to ensure no copy protection signals reach the ATSC modulator. I don't know if the modulator would work the same if I removed the matrix(or splitter) from the signal chain and allowed HDCP copy protection signals into the ATSC modulator or if those signals would get passed along via ATSC and reach and stop the D-VHS deck from recording (if I had to guess I would think the ATSC modulator would ignore HDCP and strip it off before transmission as it has to transcode it's HDMI input to the ATSC 1.0 Mpeg2 transfer stream), but I'm now curious my self...If you got that string of tech jargon, and want me to try direct feeding my Roku and or DVD player into the ATSC modulator without the matrix/splitter and see if that changes the D-VHS deck's ability to record it I'm certainly game (read that "I'll test it, if asked, and report back...Possibly in video form").

​@@tomcarlson3913 This is only available restricted for North America NTSC/ATSC! What to use in Europe for PAL/DVB-T and DVB-T2?

@@Renak036 The short answer is you'll probably need to do some research and experimentation to get a solution. There's 3 possible avenues I can think of for performing HD D-VHS recordings in Europe off of your DVB standards. 1.) Take a current production DVB reciever with HDMI output and feed it's HDMI output into an ATSC modulator and feed that to an ATSC tuner that feeds the D-VHS deck. (As I understand it 1080i/p and 720P were created as international standards and in HDMI form should work with TVs of all regions.) 2.) If they made DVB tuners (or satellite tuners with onboard DVB tuning) that had firewire/ilink/HDV/(how many other trade names can one connector possibly be known by) output to connect a D-VHS deck to, then tracking down one of those would be a cheaper and simpler solution than number 1....However I do not know how D-VHS years as an actively sold format corresponded with DVB's existence in the market, thus I don't know if such a product existed. 3.) Get a DVB tuner USB dongle for your computer and a firewire adapter and figure out the right software configuration to pass the HD stream to the D-VHS deck. For standard definition PAL over DVB things could get interesting if your D-VHS deck was designed for the NTSC regions of the world...If that's the case then for solution 1 you're either going to have to force the HDMI output of the DVB box to upscale to 720P or 1080i to record 576? PAL, or your going to have to get an HDMI to composite AV adapter with PAL/NTSC switch and select NTSC and feed it's output to the D-VHS deck composite inputs (it might be better just to get a PAL market S-VHS VCR than use NTSC composite video). For solution 2 hopefully the DVB box can both feed firewire to the D-VHS deck, and take the firewire data playback from the deck and convert it back to video...Technically the firewire line on a D-VHS deck is just a data line and the D-VHS deck is just a data recorder so you can store any kind of file that is within the max file size of a tape's memory....You can use a D-VHS deck as a tape backup drive for your PC if you are so inclined and have the patience to figure out the right software methods. That said solution 3 depending on how you configure the video data stream to the D-VHS deck may be only watchable be connecting the D-VHs decks firewire to a PC and decoding the data stream on the PC, and even if the deck can internally convert a digital HD recording to video it might struggle on a digital PAL recording. I can not guarantee any of this will work (some of my ideas for my local sources didn't turn out as I expected), but if I were to be moved to Europe and sufficiently incentivized to stay there the above 3 methods would be the first things I would look into.

So you're saying a couple of non-SSB capable radios (ie no VFO) when setup such that the superheterodyne oscs beat against each other can act like a SSB capable reciever? If so that's fascinating and I think I now need to try it.

exactly😀@@tomcarlson3913

tune the 1000 as close as you can to the ssb station, then tune the other radio back and forth, and move it around the 1000 till it beats the signal. It is a picky setup but it does work.

AFAIK no D-VHS deck ever supported W-VHS playback. Not even the JVC HM-DR10000 early D-VHS decks which were basically the case and mechanism from a JVC/Victor HR-W5 W-VHS deck reworked with different electronics and possibly heads to make it a D-VHS machine. Most D-VHS decks can only play and record D-VHS, S-VHS and VHS. I really wish D-VHS decks did support W-VHS recording and playback so I don't have to keep searching for a W-VHS deck and tapes for my tape formats collection.

Yes, but the easier solution is to buy an adapter cable like this. www.ebay.com/itm/195513826002 It'll keep the phone more original too.

If you haven't done so yet, the first thing I would do is connect a known working standard touchtone phone...First directly to the landline, then through the DialGizmo to the landline and check for dial tone in both configurations to confirm both the landline and DialGizmo work and are able to furnish and pass a dial tone. If you can't get dialtone that way either the landline or DialGizmo is defective. If the above tests yield dialtone then something is wrong in your phone....Assuming it isn't misswired the most likely culprits are the handset and the impedance matching network. The handset (assuming it is a 3-wire handset) you can check in the following way unwire the handset from the main phone (mark which color wires go where) unscrew the mike and ear piece and identify the mike, ear, and common (connects to both mike and ear) wires, screw the mike and ear piece back into the handset then connect the handset across the red and green wires coming from your landline wall jack...You should hear dialtone. if you do your handset is probably fine...You can check the mike by installing a switch between one of the handset wires and the landline wire, then calling your land line with your cellphone (push the button to pickup) and you should be able to talk into either mike and hear it in the other (it may be a bit quiet without the impedance matching network)... If your handset is bad you can use a DMM to check the cord (they do go bad sometimes, and regardless of that my above test doesn't check the common wire) and if the cord is good you can try a replacement mike or ear piece from a parts phone (it may require some adapting if it's from a different model). If the handset is good you can make a phone work without the impedance network....I believe in this video I rewired a Stromberg Carlson from a TV repair shop that was missing it's matching network to work without the matching network...This can be done, but in some cases at the cost of reduced volume and or hearing your mike amplified in the ear piece. You may also be able to find a replacement network for your model or adapt one from another phone. If it is some how not the network or handset check the hook switch in both answered and hund up mode as well as the rotary dial and wall cord. For both the last checks and for confirming it isn't miswired if you can find the brand and model that your phone is then googling said brand and model plus the word schematic will probably turn up a wiring diagram that will tell you a lot about how it's wired.

I'm not familiar with what inputs and tuner are on Aquos TVs (I understand they made many different models over many years with that trade name)...However method 1 mentioned in the video should work as long as the converter box is set to letterbox or set-by-program mode. One of the reasons I like method1 is that the Zenith DTV tuner I use lets me jump between letterbox and cropped at the push of a button on the remote so I can have it any way I want. Method 1 may not be the cheapest way. Depending on the age of the roku (older models with built in composite output tend to be best) there sometimes are display settings buried in the menus that allow control of that. If your TV was made after 2002 and has HDMI there may be display menu settings in the TV to control whether it displays letterbox or not. Some HDMI to AV adapters (if you're using one) have a zoom button to switch between letterbox, cropped, or squeezed...you may have to buy multiple different models of HDMI to AV adapter and test each one to see which does what you want...None of the ones I own are being sold new anymore so I don't know what any specific new unit will do....I can also tell you from buying several different HDMI to AV adapters around 5 years ago, that they all had different default behaviors and the for sale pages were so vague about how they handle the aspect ratio change that the only way to know was to buy a few and test them.

It's still stock with the exception of the front springs which one of the previous owners swapped for shorter ones. I don't like how low it is (I have to grab a fender and lift to get my shortest jack under it) so a year ago I sourced a new set from Fusick to restore stock ride height, but I haven't had luck finding a shop that will install them. Coil springs are one of the few things on a car that can kill ya without warning if you don't know what you're doing so I don't plan to learn how to change them on a car that doesn't have any tutorial videos for that.

You need spring clamps. Place a jack under the A frame and raise it up some, then place a jack stand under the frame of the car. Next, put the clamps on the spring. Next, loosen the pivot pin at the outer end of the A frame and remove it. After then separating the steering knuckle from it, lower the jack under the A frame. You can then remove the spring and install the new spring and button everything back up. FIRST though, have a shop manual so you can find the tightening specs for the outer pivot pin!

It's not hard to connect theses sets to a Roku box, DTV tuner, etc and use them with modern signal sources. The video I ran on this set here was basically played off youtube on a PC that was connected to the set through an adapter box. Getting the TVs to work in the first place especially early color sets of the 50's is where it takes real skill.

As far as I know I have no relation to Stromberg Carlson, or Setchel Carlson...It doesn't stop me from collecting them though.

@@tomcarlson3913 forgot about Setchel.

@@tomcarlson3913 Hey gotta see if you're related to Tucker. That's a must know If I ever knew knowed or something like that. I was recently on my family geneaology and found I'm related to William Shakespeare indirectly but directly to his great uncle. I about fell out of my chair when I found it. On another branch, i'm related to Lizzie Borden, Amelia Earhart, Daniel Webster, Jimmy Carter thru his mother Lillian. Richard Nixon, Bill Gates.. theres more. Too many to list. Those listed are all related to each other as well via the Cornell family.

@@tomcarlson3913 How many hours drive is it from Hilliard , OH to your place? You're in Minnesota or Wisconsin? I forgot.

@@tomcarlson3913 Stromberg and Setchel seem to me as two old geezers sitting around fogging up their dens with pipe smoke and coughing until bedtime. It was actually two people. Alfred Stromberg and Androv Carlson. Ok I'll ask you if you are related to Androv. LOL. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stromberg-Carlson As for Setchell Carlson same thing. Two people founded it in St. Paul Minnesota. Bart Setchell and Carl Donald Carlson. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setchell_Carlson Stromberg Carlson for some odd reason brings mind of some obscure ventriloquist doll like Charlie McCarthy or Danny O dey. only less popular.