We fell in love with boating over 20 years ago. We especially like coastal boating on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), spending our vacations and several weekends a year doing day trips along the North Carolina and South Carolina coast. As we reached the limits of day trips, we wanted to grow to cruising entire weekends or even weeks at a time, including navigating the Great Loop someday. This would require a different boat.
We first saw Ranger Tugs on a DIY show called ShipShapeTV - love at first sight for both of us. After several years of dreaming, we ordered our Ranger Tug in June 2020 and took delivery 5 months later from Edgewater Yacht Sales (moderntugs.com). We named her Elvin Ray. This channel documents our adventures, and gives prospective R-23 owners insight into the details of this unique boat.
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Hi Dave - another great Video - thank you! I also use Navionics on my Android phone for navigating shallow areas of the CT River. My R23 can get into some nice remote areas, but I have to be wary and Navionics depth charts are VERY helpful. I would like to display my Phone Navionics on the Garmin Chart Plotter or install Navionics on the Garmin Chartplotter. Have you been able to do that? If so, could you do a YT Video on that subject? Thanks again!
Garmin has a version of Navionics charts that you can install. They cost between $100 and $200 depending on which regions you want, and whether you want relief shading or not. It's s subscription service, so you can download updates continually throughout the year in ActiveCaptain and then transfer them to the chart plotter. I'll see if I can put a video together on that process.
Dave - thanks for this video. I still have the factory anchor & bow roller on my 2018 R23, but am annoyed that it won't self deploy. I'm often solo and have to go out on the bow just to give the anchor a nudge over the roller. Is the final result of your new bow roller & anchor that it will self deploy from the helm now? Also, does the original factory windlass have any issue raising the heavier anchor? I'm thinking of shamelessly copying your entire Mantus upgrade - bow roller, anchor, swivel - what supplier did you use for parts and do you recommend them? Thanks!
We usually cruise with the anchor locked in place, but it will definitely self-deploy if unlocked with no intervention. I bought the Mantus anchor components directly from Mantus Marine. About twice a year, they have a 20% off everything sale, the last being around July 4. That's the best time to buy Mantus ground tackle. I love our anchor setup now.
Thanks, Dave. I like this as a way to avoid that 'bear on a bicycle' feeling while balancing on that tiny side deck holding the hose. But in our (sorta sistership) Cutwater 24, our water tank vents inside, up near the fill. I'd get distracted enough with chores I'd surely dump water in the forward bilge. Not the end of the world but not desirable, either.
The water tank vent is inside? Really? Interesting. Our vent is a through-hull right below the deck and next to the vent for the waste tank. I wonder why they would vent it inside.
@@CruisingElvinRay Maybe it isn't. I'm going off the 2022 owner's manual. It wouldn't be the first deviation from the manual that Fluid Motion chose. But in fairness. our first four boats all vented their water tanks inside. Maybe because they were blue water sailboats and one always wants to minimize holes in the hull. Owners of power boats seem to l-o-v-e those long lines of stainless and plastic thru-hulls that hint at the gadgetry inside.
Dave. I have a similar setup with my R-27 OB. I use a slightly different strategy to minimize use of the bow thruster. As I approach my slip I turn to starboard for a few seconds, then soon the helm hard left and hit idle reverse. Slides right in.
The most helpful aspect of this video - for me, at least - was seeing the locations of the NMEA network. A lot of work lies ahead for me, so very useful info. Dave, you made me appreciate our stereo on the Cutwater 248 - it does exactly what you two wanted from yours, I find the sound quality excellent AND now I know there's a job I don't have to do. 😎
Interesting. We're new to our 2022 Cutwater 248, with essentially the same forward cabin arrangement as your R-23. We want/need to rely on the storage areas under the V-berth to keep cabin clutter to a minimum. Don't you find a day cover to be inconvenient for that reason?
I don't think the day cover interferes really any more than the mattress topper does. It does require pulling the day cover and mattress cover back to get to the side storage areas, and I keep spare parts and such in the forward storage area because accessing that area is pretty difficult. In the end, though, the mattress topper is more of the issue than the day cover. Showering is also a little less convenient, because the topper/day cover has to be folded out of the way to make room for the shower. Again, not too big of a deal.
@@CruisingElvinRay Well, a 'mattress topper' is itself a choice to reduce access and increase inconvenience. Hardly an endorsement that a second cover is less inconvenient. But if one's preference is for appearance over access, that's certainly understandable. FWIW we find in the Cutwater the permanent removal of the aft V-berth insert is all but essential, as it opens up access to the head door and allows standing headroom in the cabin. And that makes any kind of topper a more awkward choice. Maybe that does not apply to the R-23.
@@jacktyler7599 Sounds like you don’t have the split head door. It’s factory standard now, and eliminated the need to move the aft cushion to open the door. Some owners started the trend by cutting their door in half and adding hinges, the factory then adopted it. Here’s my example: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ETzfnjNZFlM.htmlsi=MJOQqKqib6-nVwnd
@@CruisingElvinRay Dave, every time we exchanged comments, I discover something else I didn't know. So thank you. Actually, we do have the factory split door - one of the C242 to C248 changes, I think. Your short video shows our two floor plans to be identical down there. I think it's just that we prefer more cabin sole being routinely useful vs. that aft-most v-berth insert being used. But hey, is that a KEY in your door!? It's a real pain, on our boat, to try and secure the door in the closed position from up in the main cabin. Seems to require wrist/finger geometry only uneasily available to me. That key suggests to me you can easily 'lock' the head door from up in the main cabin side. Sure? Keyed lock? Key? Nope, don't think we have those things...but maybe I missed noticing them. Perhaps too busy with sweat filled eye sockets getting the Honda 2200 rigged up on the swim platform so we can air condition the boat on the hook or on occasion underway. SW Florida is not an inviting boating climate these days. [Sorry for the text wall.]
Haven’t had an issue yet, but am new to my 2022 Cutwater 248. I have 3 x 15 amp “household” outlets plus 120V systems (A/C, microwave, galley burner, etc) and a 2000W inverter with the 6 x Lithium house bank package. So I’m assuming that - sooner or later - one of us might have several systems running and unintentionally ask more of the inverter than it’s rating warrants. Is the protection for the inverter provided onboard the inverter itself, would you think, requiring that reset you mentioned? Or on the AC panel, at the inverter activation switch or inverter breaker?
On my boat, the inverter is a 2000W inverter. It is connected to the panel with a standard 15A plug. The outlet on the panel is just like the GFCI outlet you would have in a kitchen or bathroom. The breaker on the AC panel should trip before you do anything to the inverter, but I have had one instance where I had to reset the outlet on the inverter because the GFCI tripped. Hope that helps! If you get a blue light on the inverter switch and don’t get a green light on the power breaker on the panel, it’s probably the GFCI. is that what you are seeing?
Thanks, Dave. Should I assume if one accidentally asks for more power from the inverter than it is capable of providing, that trips the inverter itself and requires fishing for the reset button you mention? I'm assuming the inverter breaker on the AC panel does not trip, is that correct? BTW the PVC bimini 'fix' worked nicely. Thank you.
When using the inverter, you definitely need to watch your Amp gauge on the power panel. I also keep an eye on my Victron app to watch power consumption at the 12V source. 2000W at 120V is about 16.6A. So, for example, running your A/C is going to consume about 9A at 120V. Running the water heater on top of that would put you over for sure. The inverter would just shut down with an E03 overload error, if the breaker on the A/C panel didn’t trip. Restarting the inverter with a lower load would resolve it. The GFCI outlet on the inverter is purely for ground faults.
@@CruisingElvinRay Thanks for following up with that reply, Dave. Helpful and much appreciated. It's a "first" for me to buy a boat with so many systems and their respective sensors, logic controls and interrelationships. Not surprisingly, it's been fellow owners who have made it less stressful and more understandable. Your YT channel and individual A's to Q's has been part of that, so feel some pride today in what you have contributed to the greater good.
@@jacktyler7599 Thank you Jack. These boats may be small, but they have the systems of a 30-40ft boat. And with any boat, the more you understand the systems and design, the more fun you will have on the water!
I just bought a 2018 R23 and would like to know where you got thisr sunshade? You didn't say anything about where it came from that I could see and Ranger Tug doesn't show it on their site! thanks, Dennis
You turned the wheel so many different directions so many times it shows you don't know how to back a boat up so why did you think you could show anyone how to do it?
Spoken like someone who’s never backed up the boat with an outboard engine. To move the back of the boat left or right, you steer all the way from one side to the other. Post a link to your video backing your boat into a slip in coastal waters with wind and current. Show me how it’s done.
@@CruisingElvinRay Yes, we would love to see your video where you never turn the wheel but once on an outboard while backing in with 12 mph wind and current. Please provide that link.
I enjoyed your video. Having spent some years with 80s trawlers, I'm thinking of downsizing to 24-to 30-foot tug types like yours. I'm in NC so wanting to spend more time on the Intracoastal.
Ironically Dave, you presented this thorough discussion on your evolving anchoring system without ever discussing your anchor choice. A stock Lewmar claw held on Lake Normal, a Danforth held at Holden Beach, and then Voila! there's a 2nd gen Mantis on the bow. Not a Vulcan nor other Rocna nor earlier gen Mantis. Felt like a missing important step. I only mention this as I'm now facing a similar choice for a Cutwater 248, a kissing cousin of your R23 but with an anchor platform that won't accept a roll bar. Bet you weighed the anchor choice thoroughly before deciding.
Hey Jack. I missed replying to this and just noticed. I went with the Mantis based on the rest of the system (Bow roller, Swivel, Bridle, Snubber, bow stop), so the anchor was a natural fit. I didn't want to deal with the hoop on the end of the M1. The M2 had great reviews and we have been extremely happy with it. We were on a lee shore anchorage overnight near Vero Beach a few weeks back and she held firm through a very uncomfortable night. Very happy with it.
Great video Dave! As someone who also always backs into a slip with our R-23, I appreciate this. It looks very similar to what I do, although my success varies a bit when the wind and current are up! Not sure I'm ready to do it solo yet.
Very much appreciated, Dave. I'll have to be doing the same thing, for the first time, in a similar Cutwater 248 soon. Looks like that wheel knob comes in very handy. I'm not familiar with that software, don't know how its spelled, and so couldn't find it using google. Can you spell if for us? Thanks (yet again) for another video, Dave.
Also, the spinner I have is available on amazon here: a.co/d/3ox8124. I think it's a good color match to the wheel. Some people like a smaller spinner that doesn't stick out as much.
@@CruisingElvinRay Thanks, Dave. As it happens, having seen that knob on Martin's wheel (Channel Surfing), I had just ordered it this morning. Any clarification on the identity of that software you use? I'm just getting back into boating, so no doubt I'll be catching up on the myriad of tech leaps since sailing to Australia in 2010.
We carried one of these as a 3rd anchor (but we will cruising internationally in remote areas). For Dave's boating uses as I understand them, I'd say the utility comes from the (dis)assembly option vs. needing it to handle serious storm conditions. I would probably take Ranger's stock anchor rode gear, and bag the whole thing as the back-up system.
I had no idea... Getting to the Caribbean from Annapolis MD with no GPS didn't seem all that hard at the time. Now...what a wonderful thing to benefit from the crowd sourcing, daily updates, etc. Dave, as you can see in your viewer comments, much of the value comes in introducing the complexities but also benefits of these new systems to us.
Would very much like to see the 60 amp upgrade, Dave. And thanks for the NT tool reference. In the past, I used the West Marine crimper one could check out....but WM isn't all that close any more.
Excellent overview, making the complicated a bit simpler. Dave, a Q for you: Do you know the wiring pathway that leads your solar panel wiring to the solar controller you mention being in the port lazaret? A solar panel is 'on the list', along with that 712BV. Thanks once again.
I don’t know for sure, but I do know that most of the wiring from the top deck follows the teak center panel, then goes over the starboard panel (wooden panel with the porthole) down to a rigging tube that leads to the helm. The solar wires may follow a similar path on the port side the back to the cockpit.
The frig removal aside, this is an excellent tutorial on the troubleshooting process we all must wrestle with on boats. Congrats on "solving" the trim tabs issue, Dave...but wonder if the problem ever resurfaced? Zip tying the cables is an excellent idea, given the intermittent nature of the fault.
VERY helpful, Dave - thank you! We plan this to be our first owner mod with a 2022 C248. Question: I installed this system in our trailer and, with a LOT of effort, mounted the display so it could easily be seen. Then I later installed a Victron solar controller (no display) and solar panel, which forced me to use my phone via BT. That left me wishing I would have simply mounted the display where it was easy and use my phone for everything! In retrospect, especially given your 712 display's location down in the 'cave', what would you be losing if not mounting the display where you can access it visually? Any thoughts about where the display might be mounted that's easier than where you did? And that's a very clever idea to mount a spare phone adjacent to the helm. Exactly where I would put the 712 except it would be hard to locate there.
I can honestly say the only time I’ve ever touched the display gauge was when I tie-wrapped it temporarily during the initial install and when I permanently mounted it in on the electrical panel. I don’t think I’ve ever pushed a button on it. The phone at the helm comes in handy for the Victron app, Garmin ActiveCaptain, and navigation apps. We also used it for the Nebo app before we installed NeboLink.
@@CruisingElvinRay Yup, what I suspected. Assuming it is located out of the 'wet', I'm inclined to put the monitor where it's easy to mount. I was very impressed with the Victron app. Thanks for these replies, Dave.
Dave, this video was great news! We're in SW Florida and are hoping to purchase a Cutwater 248, a kissing cousin to your R23. Sun protection is critical down here and we've wondered how to address it without custom canvas & frame work. If this sun shade (or similar from FM) fits our C248, it will solve the problem. Thank you!
Well done approach. Carolina currents must be experienced to be appreciated. In that scenario - but not knowing how your tug behaves - I might have had a short mid-ships line cleated off and ready, the idea being to first get the midships line to an adjacent dock cleat so the boat couldn't really go anywhere. (I'm single handing). Would that have worked?
Single-handed, it would definitely be easier docking to starboard. I’ve got good access to the mid-ship cleat through the window at the helm and can throw a line around the cleat on the dock. Possible on the port side as well, but I don’t like leaving the helm when I’m docking.
Then maybe you should forward through it like I do when I don’t want to hear someone’s music. I do it ever week on a couple people I follow. Just a thought to ease your distress.
Dave, just found your channel..thanks for the videos. You mentioned a "process" to pump out to your septic when you bring the boat home. Could you do a video on that? Thanks
Yes, I second that. I would like to see your pump out system too. Do you just hook up on the outside some how, or do you have a Y valve and another pipe?
Just finished the install of my Victron 712 in my 2021 R25 and noticed something strange. Under load the Victron shows my House batteries discharging at the exact same rate as my starter battery but my engine battery switch is off! What the heck? After 4 hours with a 52w load, both starter and house batteries are at 12.64 volts. Any ideas about what might cause this?
Great videos you have on the R23. I’m in the process of purchasing a 2021 R25 and these videos are helping me immensely!. Thanks! But, I heard you mention in passing Sionyx and Lenco Autoglide. 😎😎 wow!! These are two goodies I’d like to install on the R25. Please tell us more about these. Did you DIY install them? Installation, component placement and wire routing on the R23/25 is what I’d really like to know about.
Can you provide the swivel you used on the factory chain and anchor before you switched to the mantis full setup? I’m a fellow R23 owner on the west coast of Canada, also if your interested I swapped my factory stove for a propane 2 burner with a 5lb tank in the rear cockpit it’s fantastic
I used the Mantis S1 swivel with a smaller shackle to fit the factory anchor. Mantus is running a 20% off promotion right now, too. And YES! Very interested in your stove solution!
Hey! Great vids and channel. 👍🏼😎 How do you guys make hot water during one of your extended stays out away from shore power. Do you run the water heater off the inverter while underway with engine alternator helping to recharge? Or is using a portable gen the only way?
@@brrrett1Thanks. Yes, that prop turns vid is a good one. 👍👍 One thing I found out is that on my boat R25OB the parallel switch connects to engine battery to the thruster not the house battery. Also, the house batteries on my R25 are charged by the engine aux charging wire and not via an ACR from the engine battery , so no need to trick the ACR while using big water heater load.
@@brrrett1 Yes, apparently it’s the R27 and R23, The R25 is different in that it has 4 battery switches together on panel instead of 3 with the parallel between the engine and thruster. But, like I said the important point which makes the parallel moot on an R25 is that the engine and house batteries (My boat has 3 house batts) are charged directly from the alternator via the normal and aux charging leads. So, no need to trick/bypass an ACR to charge the house battery while using high watt load underway. Why R25 is different I don’t know???
