Just an idiot with imports trying to go fast while making the mortgage payments.
- 610fwhp 2000 Honda Civic Si (Undergoing a K24 swap and "one-off" AWD conversion) - 206fwhp 1998 Honda Civic EX 24hr endurance race car (Champcar Endurance Series) - SlowAFrwhp 1967 Plymouth FuryIII 383 Commando (Converted into a Super Commando)
Wiring harness bcm c1 blue connector o6 corvette ,mice got inside and chewed thru it ,yes color coded but 3set of same color ,do I need a new harness or is there a tool or probe to help me connect right wires to proper location.
I can appreciate that direction. However between what I see happen to our champcars front suspension the best it’s getting is paint and new bushings lol all the stones that get kicked up on to the track tear up the wheel wells in these things.
Either completely seal the wires from connector to connector in a Motorsport spec fashion. OR use flex loom such as what you saw here and allow it to drain and dry.
Curious question. Some other vids ive watched recommend using non-advesive vinyl tape rather than regular electrical tape. Curious if that is something youve tried or you have a reason not to do so?
Did they give a reason as to why? Personally on a refresh like this I have had no problems with standard 3M or Scotch electrical tape. Let me know I would be interested in looking into this. If I was building a Motorsport spec harness I would certainly never use any electrical tape as kapton is the only option allowed.
@berttnotbought804 I found it interesting as well as I didn't even know non-adhesive tape existed. Apparently it clings to itself really well even without adhesive. I guess the disadvantage to regular electrical tape is that the heat will react with the adhesive and it becomes a goopy mess, which apparently isn't the case with the other. One of the videos mentioned is here in a link. I ended up ordering some from them to give it a try when I redo my harness soon. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zSh8P461LuA.htmlsi=WiBfb6RVFvjJToWz I did watch your whole 3 part series- good stuff- made me more comfortable with restoring a harness on my project in the near future. Thanks!
Thank you for the info. I’m going to look into this and try to understand it better. I’ll get back to you on this. Also. Big thank you for all of the support. I know these videos are a bit long winded but I wanted to make sure all the info was there. Thank you for powering through and watching all three. The engagement means a lot. I’m sure you’ll be able to tackle your project no problem. I’m here if you need any support or have questions. 🤘🏻
I’m a big fan of deutsch connectors and barrel pins. I use a knock off DMC barrel crimp tool that has so far proven to make crimps stronger than the wire.
I came for tips and tricks on wrapping up a wire harness for my hemi and I wasn't disappointed. If I can get mine .25 percent as good as yours I will be very happy. I'm shooting for half though.
@gamex9288 no problem! Let me know if you have trouble. I will say if you are swapping an EM1 it is beneficial to have the DC control arms as you can bolt a traction bar to it and they also give you a touch more camber. Just an fyi
Awesome tutorial. I'm doing on the truck, what you did on the bench. Mainly removing old loom, sorting wires and deleting what's not needed. It is much simpler than your project as I'm working on an 86 chevy truck with fitech throttle body, so not near as complex, but I have a question. Would you suggest I wrap the wires with some kind of electrical tape before installing my split braided loom? I see you did that in your video, could you suggest some kind of tape for that if so, and what kind to use to seal the ends of the loom too? Maybe something easy to work with, as I'm working on it on the firewall, and my connectors are all installed too. Thanks Mike
Renault play this game with a lot of their parts. It’s great for upgrades but only because someone took a chance to see if it work! Great video. Lots of detail.
I know this was a while ago but your videos are quite detailed so, you seem to be one of the better K-Series content vloggers. Why does nobody talk about the oil filter and oil coolers on these engines? There are a few options out there but I can’t see when you should step up from one (OEM HE) to another (separate remote oil cooler)?
Hi thanks for sharing. If you are still checking replies here, how well does that work? I mean, is it less brutally hot, or so so, given the circumstances, or is it truly comfortable? I ride 30 some miles to work each way on a motorcycle in the Florida heat, in full gear, so I made up a kind of front/back vest with Revix freezer packs. It works so well it feels like air conditioning for the whole 40 minute ride.I even chose a winter riding jacket with the liner removed, so as to keep the cold in. But on those peak heat days where its 93f and up to 100 it fades to barely tolerable by the time I get there. Currently working on V2 with Nordic Ice freezer packs. I want total comfort! I see what youve done there but I doubt there is enough surface area on the piping to provide enough heat transfer to be totally comfortable. Am I wrong? I hope so.
Pretty sure UNLOCKED with compressed air is the correct way to torque the VTC actuator (Intake Cam Gear). Then you lock it to set your chain on. Then put on the guides. Align the marks. Then set your tension.
@@berttnotbought804 the original ECU/ECM from a LT engine. I have the engine harness too... The idea is to discover what must be deleted to make the engine run like a swap.
That’s a bit of a loaded question. You’ll need to get tuning software like HP Tuners or something similar. Once you have that you’ll be able to determine what can and cannot be removed or repurposed.
Watched your Fury series this morning and really enjoyed it. I'm headed to pick up a 383 core today to rebuild and hopefully put in my 76 Scamp. Imagine my surprise when I saw Champaign County tags on your car! I grew up in Urbana and am still there regularly to visit my folks, but live down south of Louisville KY now. Hope you're still enjoying the car!
Thanks for the views and comments. It all helps! Glad to hear you enjoyed my foolishness with that car. It’s been back burnered for a little while but it will be back in the next couple months. Glad to hear you’re getting to work on your own 383! I’m far more a 90’s-00’s import expert but I did learn a lot building this 383. So if there’s anything you think I can help with please feel free to reach out! 🇺🇸
@Bertt Not Bought Thanks- mines got a great running 225 slant 6 in it now and I've been torn between an engine swap or doing the Torqstorm supercharger for the slant... Either option is way farther into mechanics than I've ever been with a car, but with some patience I'll get there. This core is cheap enough that I could still change course and end up doing the blower on the current motor without losing much- worth a shot!
It’s definitely a solid plan and worth your time either way. They are both great platforms to get in and get your hands dirty. They’re simple and forgiving.
Great Video- I have SQS Dog Kits available here at GEAR-X USA, We actually had SQS put together a 4 speed kit with a 5th cuff of which we have sold several kits here in the USA. We also have a much more reasonably priced GEAR-X 4, 5, or 6 Speed Dog kit which will handle NA up to 600HP which may be a better alternative for those on a tighter budget.
Jeff - really glad you stopped by with this info. I appreciate it, and the kind words. I looked through GEAR-X at the time and did not see the SQS option. I should have called. Getting mine sourced was a real challenge. I will be sure to call you in the future as I still need to decide on a FD ratio and an LSD. That being said I will make sure the info/options you provided make it into the next video. I don’t have a big reach but maybe it will help a couple people. It was a tough decision for me and I’d like to make it easier on the next guy staring down the barrel of a purchase like this. Thanks man!! Brett
@@berttnotbought804 Hi Brett, yeah we also had lots of problems trying to set up a direct deal with SQS who don’t actually do the manufacturing! They also are just a distributor. We now deal direct with the manufacturing company in Poland and we have a permanent order of 10 AWD B Series And 10 FWD Dog kits that are selling quicker than we can get them. We also have on order ( About 3 Months out) 2 New K Series Dog kits. One for Turbo, one for NA. Keep in touch. Regards, Jeff
This is great to know, I’ll bring all this up. These videos have gotten a decent amount of attention. I will definitely contact you soon. The transmission is hung in the car unfinished to keep working on other parts layout. But it is on my list to finish. I’ll give you a call directly to see what you offer for the remaining parts I need. I had a lot of trouble with my B series trans. Looking to put that in the past as much as possible.
Call Jeff Owen at GEAR-X USA. Let him know I sent you. He reached out to me and has a lot of available options that are SQS and others that are cheaper and more reasonable options as well!
Do it man. I’ll be honest it has really sucked not being able to work on the car because of this house. But having a nice space to live and work on the car will only make it better in the end. So I vote make your living space better for yourself and those around you. Since you follow the channel, I’m assuming you have project cars, so that nice clean space will only make them better in the end as well. Get after it, brother! You can do it.
6:51 my butt hole puckered because three sections of that insulation semi-crumbled\settled and I thought for sure you were one deep breath away from having all that insulation crumble out onto the floor…
It was such a huge mess with that stuff. I hate it but it’s not over. I’m going to blow it all up into the attic to reuse it. So this was least of the mess
I just discovered your channel and I'm excited to watch all ur videos. What series and class do you race the d-series turbo in? My goal is to participate in a few circuit races this year but due to class restrictions a d-series turbo might not be my best choice if I want to be competitive but it's definitely more budget friendly for me!
Welcome man! We run the blue civic in the champcar endurance series class B. The power is very competitive if not overly, but the chassis is not. The heavy front end just doesn’t corner the greatest.
It’s a pressure and temperature sensor. And there will be an oil cooler with a 1/8”NPT bung on it that will feed the turbo. I may switch their positions to get a more accurate reading of temp.
Yes, Hybrid Racing makes a kit I know of. The K series is a much better platform for keeping accessories and having a turbo. The only thing I’m not sure of is hood clearance between it and the pulley but I haven’t even looked into it at all yet. This car hasn’t had power steering since it had the turbo B16, so I figured I’d try it with this boat anchor up front before I looked into whether or not it will work on this set up.
When u spin the shaft by hand, is all the gears and reverse smooth? I'm rebuilding my own trans with aftermarket gears and my 1-4 gear is easy to spin but 5/6/ reverse take some effort to spin it. Is that normal or what should I look for?
This dogbox is incredibly loose compared to something more like an OE set up. But if you are experiencing drag like that go back through and double check your synchro collars and synchro springs. I’ve seen these transmissions so weird stuff if they are not installed in the right direction. They will go in backwards.
@berttnotbought804 I've done like 5 attempts of redoing it. I'm 99% sure everything is in correctly . 5/6/reverse doesn't really have drag. It's just not as smooth as the other gears. I forgot to mention, all new carbon syncrhos and bearings.
You’re right. I should go back through it all. It does need to come back apart to install the LSD and the clutch assy. I will do this. I initially used it for the water displacement properties because I knew it would be sitting for a while.
