Try using a tighter weave cotton or linen patch material of .015" thickness. Swab out the bore after a couple of shots. Akso plug the vent hole while loading will speed up ignition. Whipe off the frizen abd especially the flint to remove burnt powder fouling, whoch inhibits the spark and knap the flint edge to get better sparks. I have been shooting these rock crushers for over 45 years and participate in living history rendezvous for over 38 years.
Exquisite piece.A friend of mine gave me a T/C Hawken in flintlock some thirty years ago,was saving for a Lyman,but dang,if it were a woman I’d marry it.Doesn’t care what you feed it,easy to clean,goes off without a hitch,a bit of patience goes a long way with flintlock arms,absolutely deadly at the range.Tight groups,friend.
The grips on the Standard Manufacturing gun are beautiful! The factory Uberti grips with the red stain applied have about as much character as a cardboard box. You have made them look so much better. The fit on your grips on the engraved gun is still done poorly in my opinion, but if you are happy that's all that matter.
I really do wish double barrel shotgun were still made in the USA. It’s extremely hard to find any new production of this I have had and I’ve been very disappointed. Is this made in the same factory of Stoker or is it a step above?
Magna tusk is mastodon ivory, which is what I was told by a knife maker friend 20 years ago. Apparently, that is not ileagle or bull ? It was looking to see a video on installing 2 piece grips from Arizona grips as well . I wish I had bought the one piece. Thanks for the video
I can tell you the magna tusk is not Mastodon Ivory. A set of raw mastodon blanks would cost about a grand these days, and would cost a few hundred to have a grip maker fit them to your gun. Those Magna grips are some colored resin that was just given that name because it was a simulation of the real thing.
The original specimen of this revolver was stamped on the right side of the grip, so that's actually more authentic. The older Ainsworth was done on the left. Yet another win for Uberti.
6:36 I like the one above more than the one below, because the one above doesn´t have that extra screw infront of the cylinder. But the case hardening is nicer with the one below. Like with everything else --- you can´t get everything in your life. Something must be wrong.
I have watched as many SAA videos as I can find. Received my Std. Mfg. Co. 5.5 inch a month ago and will be getting the 7.5 inch in -10 days. Dig that it’s American made and quality is 2nd to none. 4.5 inch will finish my collection. Cleaning it compared to shooting is 10x.
When I was first learning how to fire my gpr i found that it was best to have half a pan of powder and kept to the outside of the pan. The powder doesn't obstruct the flash hole, and i would get virtually no hang fire.
You need an adapter that has a nut surface outside of the fixed slide shroud so you can have the fixed slide shroud on and still tighten it down. What you have hides the bolt down notch under the shroud so you can't tighten it down beyond hand tight. The adapter does exist.
I have the cimorron frontier SAA 45C with a 7.5 inch barrel and it had a 2 1/2 lb trigger pull right out of the box and it has the 4 clicks also and it is Lazer engraving too. I love it.
It’s a lot easier if you just mix all the powders and alcohol together in a dropper bottle or an essential oil type bottle with a dropper in it and use that to dispense the solution into the caps and just let it dry that way
I'd love a 1st gen black powder frame, but I'll probably never be able to afford one that's in good shape. My only real gripe with my Colt (being a 3rd gen) is the cylinder bushing isn't a bushing. Minor complaint, but it's not as originally designed. Edit. I misread the title I was responding to. I have a 3rd gen Colt SAA as well. My mistake. This gun is made as originally designed, and honestly the Standard is a better gun hands down.
I made this as a comment on a post but I felt like everybody should know it. Chisos boot insert that is the best you can get for a boot. To elaborate quality of boots primarily you can determine this sole and if it has a shank but that's really hard to find out unless you contact them so in the next lesser aspect for quality is the boot learning. If it's pigskin synthetic or full leather lined and the reinforcements around the toes if it's a cheap composite plastic and you also need a good heel counter as well. If you want the diversify yourself in the knowledge of quality they look up Rose Anvil on RU-vid will be my best suggestion. I will say this tacovas and Chisos are the two top brands for bang for buck. Chisos are better they are equal to boots above 1,000 or better Tacovas are almost most as equal but just a tad less if I was going to recommend any boot it would be these two over any brand. Do your due diligence in watch videos on RU-vid from rose anvil and you will be educated and diversified within the knowledge of quality my friends. Neil to talk about the pair of boots in the video the stitching on the top behind the toe it's called the vamp to me the stitching is too far down or not minimalized for my liking but it might be to suit multiple wear aspects. Anybody that understands the quality good quality with leather sole shoes or boots should always get a sole saver for them.
Suggestion: hole the punched caps with a small board that has shallows hold drilled in it. Then use a small brass (won't spark) spoon, they make tiny ones, to apply the powder. Or a pointed plastic spatula. Or perhaps a better idea...!
Flint needs to be very solid. no movement. Don’t be fooled by the rumors. Those flintlocks from India are for shooting. Learn all you can about flint to frizzen tuning. 👍
Possibly. Not really sure on the history of this one. It was my dad's, but he never really told me anything about it. There's not a lot out there on these guns that I've found to research either.
@RooftopKY I own advertising brochures from the day, that Winchester published. It's a great way to see what came with and what could be ordered back then.
Do you need to clean them after every time, using black powder? From what I've heard that stuff is nasty to be left sitting in your barrel for too long.
I do. Black powder is highly corrosive and it's gross. It's part of it though. Upside is it doesn't take a lot of expensive solvents to clean it off. Just some good old fashioned water, scrub, thoroughly dry them, and some ballistol afterwards, and you're good to go.
Thanks for posting, I bought this and tried it and it worked great, The second time i tried there improved Prime-all 2.0 and it didn't work at all, guess I will go back to the original Prime-all. Tried calling and emailing sharp shooter several times over issue, They wont return my call
A shame Smith and Wesson were too stubborn to allow the #3 to be chambered in .45 colt. If they had we’d probably all be talking about the Schofield as the gun that won the west rather than the SAA.
Thanks nicely done I have the same flintlock except with a left handed lock Zeroed it for 75 yds using 90 grains of 2 ff with primed with 4ffff & prelubed patches Its a tack driver Please show us your target hits next time All the best
Approximately 1 primer per minute, 60 primers per hour, 10 cents per primer at current market price yields you an equivalent value for your time at $6 per hour. Not great. Buy factory primers and stack them deep.
S&W thought they had it made coming up with the schofield 45 round they thought they were going to outfit the whole army only problem was the army only needed 3000 guns when incombatability was realized the got rid of the guns
I often buy used single shot shotguns at pawnshops. I have this gun in an 18.5 inch barrel, 20 gauge, that I got for $110, right after Covid started up. I disassembled it, cleaned it, and camo painted it, added a 5 shell sleeve on the stock, an improved front sight, and a black padded butt pad. I really like it. It is hanging from mt 3 long gun rack in my man cave, along with a Marlin Model 60 .22 rim fire, and a Henry Golden Boy lever action .22 rim fire. Everyone who has seen it, wants to know how I camo-painted it! Definitely a keeper!
Basically a kit in a box, if you are capable of slicking them up, lightening the hammer spring, often the hand is too long effecting timing. They are slapped together at the factory and it's not uncommon to find metal chips inside. Cimarron will try to tell you that they are superior...they are not and my experience with their warranty was not good.
