The black hex key screws on that new one loosen and fall out. Take care to check occasionally. That said, a vintage P-83 is my preference by far for that drum.
Hello Ian. how r u? I have a doubt about this process. I´d love if you could make a video showing the before and after of the cymbal showing the sound of it, before and then after the polishment, and coat. Doenst it affect the sound of it? does the souns of the cymbal "die or turn stuffy? great channel by the way :)
Going to do this EXACT change to an 80s Acro. I got the drum as just a shell with lugs. Friend of mine gave me a P86. Very detailed and informative video. Cheers!
Thank you very much for this. I was afraid I was going to break it. The instructions that came with them were useless. Your video was right to the point without any extra crap thrown in. I appreciate your help very much.
Great video man, also wanted to mention - You can put the rubber actuator into a bowl of boiled kettle water for a minute or two and that makes the it much more flexible, I'm shocked by how well it worked 🤣
00.00 Acknowlegements / Credit 01.05 Introduction. Clean and Protect a Cymbal 01.24 Paiste 2002 10 inch Splash 01.44 Tools needed 02.06 1/4 inch Hex adaptor 02.57 Installing the 1/4 inch Hex adaptor to Cymbal 04.30 Cleaning the Cymbal (Bar Keepers Friend) 07.05 Rinsing the Cymbal with Water 07.37 Drying the Cymbal 08.39 Metal Polish to Remove Blemishes 15.42 Another Clean with Bar Keepers Friend and IPA Wipedown 16.28 Installing the 1/4 inch Hex adaptor to Cymbal (again) 18.31 Setting the Cymbal and Electric Screwdriver in the Vice. 19.16 Clear Coat and Thinner used introduction. 20.57 Applying the Clear Coat to the Cymbals front. 21.39 Applying the Clear Coat to the Cymbals back.
Man, this was an excellent video!! I’m looking to sell my mid 90’s Ludwig 5.5X14 snare. I’m replacing the snare w/ a PURESOUND and Ludwig P88 throw-off.
Dose that p-85 had a half circle on the bottom? And gets wedge? I trying to find a diagram and see what it looks like on the back. I have a same problem.
Thanks for this! I have a ludwig acrolite with P85 strainer and the plastic ribbon slips/moves at the butt end (screws are as tight as can be). So I can't put the snares on as tight as I'd like. Known issue? fixes for it?
This is odd as it's difficult to have the issue you describe. Either time to replace the butt plate or the ribbon with something thicker. The female (screw) part of the butt plate is not threaded is it? You should be able to torque that down good. hmmm.
Hi Ian. Thanks for the video. Would you recommend this one as a 1st pedal and for daily practice? Or would you recommend a single or dual chain pedal instead?
You've replaced the most famous & talked about snare strainer of all time, the mighty P--85. It is so amazing RU-vid's algorithms pushed your 6 yr old video into my feed. And I wasn't even looking up strainers. Will DW's mag throw-off get so much "love" ?😁
Hi, GREAT, thanks for sharing the solution. Where from you got the replacement piece mate? Mine works BUT I need to press it really really hard for it to just work at all and incredible hard and very very down till the very very end for it to fully open the hats. Thanks :)
noooooo, that "piece" of mine seems totally okay and in very good shape and with a nice "curve" so my problem should be a different one. I try to explain myself the best I can in English to see if you can may figure it out :) I have to press reaaaaaal hard in the pedal to keep the hithat silent while hitting the hithat cymbal. Furthermore, even if Im pressing it really hard and manage to make it "close" for one hit, even so, keeping the same pressure (really strongly) I hit the cymbal again and by this time is already "open" Even if I push reaaaaal hard directly the rubber piece with my hand, I still encounter the same problem-s What Im saying above its just for ordinary play. If I had to for example do something a bit more complex like saying for example openig/closing the cymbal by just pressing/depressing the pedal that prove an IMPOSSIBLE TASK. Impossible even just to do it once. They only thing I can really achieve and that's only by pressing very very very hard and very to the edge of the pedal, its just silent the hat but just once Any idea of where the problem could be?. Thanks :)
@@JesusPiano You still need to replace it. It is not the "shape/curve" that matters. It is it's pliability, and yours sounds like it has hardened. Contact your areas music store to see if they carry Roland replacements. A small dab of silicon spray on the apex of the curvature on the rubber actuator should sort it temporarily also.
Thanks for the update. As a jazz drummer who feathers four on the floor, I'm going back to lightweight, strap drive pedals, and it's great to see that this holds up (basically offers a cheap, new alternative to something like my old Gretsch Floating Action, which I regret selling).
Thank you for this video. I have always used direct drive and sometimes chains , I ordered this and it came today. I can see why you like it most. My direct drives always develop a click after two years. This is smooth, less resistance and fast and there is nothing to click.
Hey! Thanks for making this video. It made me go get one of these. Quick question though, were you able to adjust the beater angle for this pedal? And also not sure if you're facing this issue, but the end of my pedal board tends to spring up
Thanks faceless_painter. I haven't tried to adjust mine in the way your describe. I'll have a look at my pedal in more detail next time I use it. I've not noticed spring at the end of my pedal board.
Fix it! P-85 is the best strainer if you do “the hack”. You have to sand (120-240) the edges on ALL the inner parts, touching each other. 😉 Then drip a drop of oil and it will never ever be stuck again. It will be so smooth that you can use your pinky. 👍 The problem in all p-85 is that the edges on the inner parts are sharp from the factory. After a little time like with all other metals, when a little corrosion happens, the parts touching each other will move sluggishly or stuck, because of the sharpness of the edges that have become a little rough... Sand them round and you wil never have that problem again! 😉 It’s a 5-10 minute fix and you only have to do it one time! 😉
Never had any trouble with my p85 except for screws coming loose and having to use string on the side of the throw off... and only cheap drums come with plastic washers. Plastic washers make for hard tuning. But acrolites are so tuner friendly. The fact that I tune my snares really tight and the p85 still holds up is proof of its quality.
The worst part about the P85 I've found anyway, is that it rattles around when played with the snares off. Not sure if there's a way to fix that or if it's just mine, but it's the reason I want to change it.
