Richard Maguire is a professional hand tool woodworker - not many people can say that today! For many years Richard has run TheEnglishWoodworker.com a website for providing information, experience and tips on hand tool woodworking. The English Woodwork has become well respected as a resource with an ever growing following. Richard has returned to building furniture for his living after taking a break from Maguire Workbenches - his previous business building quality traditional workbenches.
More recently Richard has teamed with partner Helen to produced Premium Hand Tool education through entertaining and in depth online video courses which can be found on the website below. If you wish to learn more about hand tools then you should have a browse at www.theenglishwoodworker.com
Jesus man, just did this to my smoothing N.4 and it works like it has never worked before, I had a 2x2 short piece of a wood named "caobilla" which had like the worst grain you can ever imagine, the direction of the grain was everywhere, and it left it as smooth as glass. I spent like 3 hours doing it because the cap iron looked like sh-, but totally worth the effort 🙌🏻
I applied the second method of chopping along the rebate to cut some through dados. It really helped in clearing the waste. Just be careful of the far end of the dado.
Where have you been sir we miss your youtube videos my friend. I gave my mum a spoon rack made in black walnut and she brags and brags about it to everyone 🎉🎉
I've been a carpenter/joiner for just over 40 years and I use a both hard and soft tooth saws interchangeably; I'm not a tool snob whatever works best is best to use, as far as I'm concerned.
I return to this video every once in a while, there is such lot of good advice here, wishing you were still making these brilliant informative videos !
I'm fairly certain the reason you bend it over the grain instead of with the grain is because you would be putting the tip through the same grain line close to each other. In drier woods this can cause the board to split. Another thing to know is if you're using oval/cut nails it's not a bad idea to predrill a small hole to prevent the wedging of the nail from creating splits as well.
Damn I missed the sharpener truck yesterday. This would be a lot easier with professionally sharpened tools. That's what I get for being a lazy or maybe not wanting to look like a dog running down the street after a truck😂
The reason japanese pull saws are favoured over western saws for ripping, is because there's less effort required. With western saws you're pushing, (which is mainly relying on weight) and with japanese saws you're pulling. This uses a lot of back, arm and shoulder muscles and not one arm weight. Because of this it's always easier pulling than pushing.
Great job on the box. The tool marks are subtle but a great detail. How often did you need to sharpen any of your planes during the process? Tremont Nail Co. here in the states, still makes square cut nails. Their clench nails have a rectangular cross section that give a nice effect when clenched.
For all my years in woodworking I have been a power tool guy, probably because of the New Yankee Workshop and Norm Abram. Now at the tender age of 76, I am drawn into the world of hand tools, especially bench planes and chisels. A safer and more relaxing way of working in wood, not to mention the safety of it. Dustless and noiseless. What I don’t understand is why anyone likes exerting that much energy in sawing heavy lumber, a bandsaw is a more civilized way to go. If I wanted a workout, I would go to a gym. Japanese saws are flimsy and can’t be sharpened and a pull stroke feels unnatural. Not everyone is built like this fellow and even he dislikes the job.
I would rather let my 5 year old grandson do all my dovetail joinery than use nails in that manner. Unless you are using decorative cut nails for aesthetics, I wouldn’t use nails unless they come out of an air nailer and are buried below the surface of the piece.
Watching this video has convinced me that two layers of 5/8” Baltic birch with the bottom layer slightly wider for the planer to ride on is what I will do. This is just a shooting board not a piece of furniture and plywood eliminates the warping issue.
I like hogging out with a gouge actually. Less risk of splinters. Not tried it yet (cold workshop) but perhaps, if we found a way to put a stop of some sort on a chisel, smaller dados could be made with just a chisel and a hammer!? I'm planning to make a box for my screws, and need lots of dividers!
I found several other tests that were extremely sensitive at indicating the SI’s were the pain generators, 100% proven by SI joint injection under fluoroscopic guidance.
