thank you!

thank you for the kind words, and I am glad to hear that you are enjoying it!

that is interesting. i have not had very good luck with heat treats on mild steel. about the only 2 ways I know of to somewhat harden it is to cold work it, like to forge the tip of the screwdriver cold to work harden it slightly, or to case harden it by using case hardening powder and a torch or forge. how did your screwdriver work out?

@@joecalton1449 Thanks Joe...I still use the screwdriver today nearly 60 years on albeit I've ground the tip a few times

@@Casiomidi1 that is very cool!

with 440c I use the kiln for the heat, but still quench in canola oil. 440c is an air or oil hardening steel, and doesnt need such a fast trip to the oil as 1095. yes on a 1095 slipjoint, the spring will be 1095 also, just tempered softer to make a good spring

thanks Erica!

Thanks for watching!

good to hear that you are enjoying the necker!

Well said!

I appreciate that!

Thank you too!

i thought that I had done an update on that, but in looking on my channel to find it for you, I coudnt find it, so i will put it on the list for you.

@@joecalton1449 I just found a video of yours from 5/8/2024, in which you did a pocket dump for EricaEDC👍 In the video, you talked about how you made your own 940 blade out of 1095 high carbon steel😁

@@ThomasConnolly yep, that is actually the second blade i made for that 940. the first one was quite awhile ago out of 1095 and 15n20 random pattern damascus that I forged. and I made one for my other 940 in 440c stainless a couple of weeks ago.

dovo makes good current production ones, for a practice razor its tough to beat the gold dollar razors, vintage razors can be good if you find a nice one. and there are a couple on my webiste that i make also. then a strop and paste from razor emporium

thanks!!

sure, diamonds will cut carbide, I have a circular saw sharpening thing I got from harbor freight that does an ok job on carbide toothed saws with diamonds. actual sharpening doesnt take all that long if the bit is just dull, its when the bit is damaged, or severely worn that takes a long time to be able to remove enough material to repair or reshape it.

carbide has its place, and its almost magical what that stuff can do on the right materials. but for me it is not an everyday type of tool on what I cut on the lathe

i have not heard that. but it sounds very cool! I hope they do a better job with the magnacut than they did with either 154cm or s30v though.

thanks E! :}

carbon steel is really pretty tough to beat in the hands of someone who can listen to it and give it what it needs

Second this. Take care and we want to see you around.

thanks fellas. i have been getting allergies this last couple of years. and I talk more in one of these 10 minute videos than i do in a normal 2-3 days, and when I shoot mulitple videos in a day thats alot of talking and my cough acts up. sorry

@@joecalton1449 I was really hoping that you wouldn't take it the wrong way

Glad you enjoyed it

id say probably becuase I forgot to clean it before I started and noticed that it was dirty.

thank you for the kind words.

those are $100 installed right now for 440c or 1095, which near as I can tell is the same benchmade charges. you can go to my website caltoncutlery.com and the contact page and drop me a line and get started if you like.

Thanks for watching!

if I had to purchase it again, I would get the 3/4 horse model of the one that I have.

thanks!

thanks! i have not lived in a place with that high of humidity. around here you really have to try to get things to rust much.

my thoughts exactly. heck i have a tough time telling them apart sometimes. about the only time I can really see an differences is in repeated tasks. like cutting up insulation to make a walk in meat cooler, or breaking down boxes for the woodstove. or straight up rope cutting contests.

@@joecalton1449 I would say in sharpening an experienced user could tell the steel types apart.

i just eyeballed mine and wound up at 2.5" forward of the forward edge of the forearm. it works pretty well.

@@joecalton1449 Indeed, you replied to my question about that a week or more ago, thanks again. I wish I could shake the OCD that makes me give a rats about placement of a sling stud . . .

@@joecalton1449 I should add, that yours looks right. You nailed it.

that is interesting that you arent getting any rust on your d2 and that close to the ocean. do you keep any special oil on the blade or anything?

@@joecalton1449 I do try to keep it dry and not let sweat stay on it. I will put a light coat of Remington gun oil on it occasionally, maybe once every other month.

thank you for the kind words!

thank you for the kind words! I am glad to hear that you are enjoying my channel!

i think the whole knife as a package matters alot more than the steel type also.

Seconded.

thanks erica! there are only a couple more left in this series and then id better come up with an idea for some more videos i guess :}

@@joecalton1449 I would love to see more pocket dumps and explanations of what you use your carry for / how!!!

thanks!

that is a great question, and one i cant answer for you completely. the 325 is my favorite all around edge and it is what is on most of my knives most of the time. occasionally ill run that 6000 grit edge, but the only time I ever go for a polished and stropped edge is on a razor that ill be shaving my face with.

jantz for misc stuff, pops for grinding belts, jantz and admiral for steel. local wood shops for most handle materials. amazon for sandpaper and other misc also.

very cool! im not sure if you caught it in the video, but ive had those repairs last a couple of days, and had them last a couple of years. and no real rhyme or reason as to why. so id keep a close eye on it.

slingshots are a ton of fun, and very usefull!

thanks for the kind words! i can see having two grits on hands. usually your dominant hand holds tools, and the non dominate hand holds the work. so your dominant hand should be cleaner and therefore a finer grit :}

Glad you like them!

i am glad that you are enjoying it!

my 440c is is easy to sharpen. it does take a little longer on natural stones like arks, but manmade waterstones like the king 1000/6000, norton crystolon, and diamonds work well. 440 stainless takes a little expalining. real 440c is a very good steel and can be heat treated to a pretty good range of hardness. mine is pretty hard, as in a file wont really cut it. i think some of the older buck knives were 440c at higher hardnesses before they started using softer steel. there were also 440a and 440b. and ive seen fairly low quality gas station class knives with the 440 mark on them. with softer stainless knives like the 440, 420 and unmarked types, the dificulty in sharpening them is not so much getting a stone to cut it, but the burr that they form can be tough to remove as it will bend back and forth at about the same speed that it forms. so with that class of steel, a good way to sharpen it is to do the plateu method, where you destress the edgge by cutting into the side of the stone enough so that you can see light reflect along the entire cutting edge, then take a couple of strokes on each side, reducing the amount of light that you can see reflected offf the edge and repeat untill you dont see light anymore. this method lets you bring the edge just to sharp, without creating a burr. it works very well, but requires some patience, and good eyesight or optics and stong light.

@@joecalton1449 Dang, that's good stuff. Thanks. I'll reread this a couple times next time I'm sharpening. I have been using quality Arkansas stones with oil. But maybe I'll one of the man made stones like you said. When I'm ready to drop a few hundred bucks I'll give you a ring. Thank you. Quality beats quantity over and over again it seems.

@@scottc3165 if you have a couple of minutes or hours, you can google 440 stainless and ill bet someone has all the facts on the differences between all the grades of 400 series stainless steels. i love arks, they are gorgeous stones, and leave a nice finish, and you can change the way they cut by how you surface them. but they are one of the slowest of the sharpening stones out there, right alongside the ceramices from what I have seen. it is really tough to beat the manmade crystolon, waterstones and diamonds for everyday sharpening.

Arkansas should be used when the knife is already sharp. It makes it even sharper. You cannot start with a dull knife with Arkansas, haha, only half joking ok. That's why they include an India stone with those Arkansas combination.

@@MeowCat-gm5vb Wow. I never knew that. I think they did include a course India stone with my kit. I'll have to look again. Obviously, I don't get to it as often as I should. Thanks f or the info.

Glad you enjoyed it!