my edc slipjoint needed a bit of cleaning, oil, and touch up the edge, so i figured to share that along with some tips for everyday care of 1095 and other high carbon steel knives and pocketknives. caltoncutlery.com
I’ll bet I could get those 1095 pocket knives crazy sharp . All my woods knives are carbon steel mora bushcraft black and a giant Ontario . I love the idea of a slip joint with 1095 . Great stuff man .
Thanks for wisdom you always put in your videos for us. Every 5-10 years I make a mixture of 7 tallow to 1 bee wax. A very thin layer of it on guns barrels, carbon knives, axes, saws and other tools makes them almost fully rust proof. It even helps wooden and leather parts to stay healthy and alive.
I've got an old Sabatier kitchen knife I bought in 1976 or 77. I'm guessing it's 1095, though it doesn't say. It's had surface rust on it a couple of times, when someone else has got it wet and not dried it or put it away. I'd just scrub it off with a scotchbrite pad. Nearly fifty years on, it's got a great patina and gets used pretty well every day. About ten years ago, I bought a Wusthof Classic. Not a patch on my old Sabatier.
Hey Joe, I was looking at your VW bug slip joints. How do you think that steel will compare to your 1095 in terms of corrosion resistance and edge performance?
the steel in those old bug springs is surprisingly good. I have not done a side by side rope cutting contest or anything with it. but after carrying one for about 6 months, it wont hold an edge quite like my 1095, but it does do pretty well, and there is no corrosion resistance to speak of at all.
I usually force a vinegar patina wrapping the blade in a damp brown flat paper unless you want a paper towel texture on your blade and I put it in a zip lock bag and suck the air out with a straw. As long as you keep oxygen and water away it will take a nice Grey to black patina depending on how long you leave it. Rust is iron oxide so no oxygen no rust and once it gets a nice patina it is much more resistant to rust because there is a thin layer of metal that has bonded with the acid where the oxygen would normally attach to the steel. You should still wipe the blade dry after you use it but it's much less likely to get that red orange death. If you don't want a patina mixing wax and mineral oil over low heat makes a good protective balm that will not evaporate or run off like oil, keeps rust away and isn't toxic if you want to cut food with you knife.
Very nice folder , especially the nail notch , .. but a simple lock is so necessary ! I've had many cuts by the blade folding while I've been working with it .
thank you for the kind words! i will agree that some folks like locks more than others. for a large folder i like having a lock, even though I use the knife like it doesnt have one. for smaller folders and pocket knives it does not matter to me if it has a lock or not and i have not cut myself on a non-locking knife in a long time. but folks that have bad luck with folding knives, should definately get them with locks, or stick with fixed blade knives.
Food safe mineral oil and a little food safe wax bees wax works great just melt them together over low heat and after it cools it makes a safe knife balm and lip balm I guess that sticks to the blade way better than oil and will last indefinitely until you eventually wear or wipe it off.
I make the same thing on my stovetop in a double boiler. Takes a couple minutes. A jar lasts a long time. Great for cutting boards and knives, also smells great
I was doing some carpet removal and was using my Gayle Bradley 2 in m4 steel and by the time I was done it had started pitting and there was nothing on the blade beforehand. M4 is a rust magnet
Not that I'm using high carbon steel at the moment, I use wd40, gets all the sticky tape and crap off easily then just wipe the excess off. Nice folder there Joe
