Welcome to the channel! We mainly focus on car enthusiast topics, such as weird quirky cars, cars & coffee events, and DIY at home auto repair projects the average shadetree mechanic greasemonkey could successfully do in their driveway with fairly ordinary tools. Also... I have ADHD (SQUIRREL!!) so my videos reflect this, and they include a collection ranging from live music performances, guitar gear reviews, inspirational shorts, family fun videos, professional education, and some fun random stuff as well. Happy viewing!
Thanks for the video! VERY HELPFUL! I found it while watching your other Sequoia videos on the vacuum system... I'm currently chasing down issues on my vehicle with those same codes. I had problems with my winch catching a bit the last time I needed to use it on my '04 G1 Sequoia. What about a "grime shield"? Perhaps cut a donut shape out of some flexible plastic cutting board material to lay on top of the spare tire/winch cable assembly to keep the new winch from getting ***as much*** grime on it over the remaining vehicle life. If you could find a piece of plastic large enough to match the tire's diameter, it would be captured by the tire against the underbody of the vehicle to keep it from catching wind while driving. Just an idea that came to mind while watching this.
I love that idea. Even a properly mounted PVC pipe as a guide for the rod would probably work well, and yes - some sort of dust cover around the winch assembly would be helpful to keep it from seizing up!!
On your passenger door the striker was worn through. What if you switched that striker to this door and then you might be able to slide the tube on without cutting?
The thing is, even though we can remove and flip the striker, we cannot remove the ends of the striker to slide the tube onto it. It's permanently affixed to the plate. That would have been a great solution though!!!
Would you by chance have the most current navigation discs for your VW Navi? I have the same navigation in my mk4 R and would love to have the most current ones. Thank you.
The discs I have in mine are the ones I bought new in 2015, so they're about a decade out of date. There are tons of discs available on Ebay but most do not have a year update marking, so unfortunately without getting the set directly from Navtech, it's going to be hard to get reasonably updated discs.
We have several of these at work. Used them often to jump start the bigger international and hino box trucks. It's pretty impressive. We also have F250s and ram 2500s, which usually sit for week's and we get them going with these as well.
Does the CCM have any control over the Fuel Door switch or the power mirrors? These items have all stopped working. I've replaced all fuses but can't figure out what is controlling these items.
Thanks for your video! I have repainted my car with doors removed window down as I am trying to reconnect everything I am not able to close the windows I can see that the green lights on the switch are working no blown fuse and can ear the module clicking in the back driver quarter any Idea on what could it be ? Thx
No worries. Those were made by TEC Automobildesign in Germany, sadly a tuner that no longer exists. They used Opel Calibra side skirts, shortened to fit the Corrado, and then wrapped them in carbon fiber.
Hi i have a question, I bought the same Fog light like ur, but it have yellow bulb so i bought new h3 white led bulb for it but it has 1 cable is it compatible ? or i should buy another h3 bulb with 2 cable on it ?
H3 bulbs typically don’t have a ground cable because the mounting ring on the housing acts as a ground connection. You can add one by soldering on a wire with the spade connector you may need to make it work, to swap bulbs.
I want to buy H&R Mono-tube coilovers like your, but i have 1 consern, on the website it says that lowering is from 30-55mm, does that means that if u make my coilover as long as possible, will my car still be 30mm lower?? or it will be higher if i put it on max.....??????? Because I want to life it up for the winter....pls help me
You are correct, the maximum height those coilovers can get is 30mm lower than stock. That said, I've driven my R32 in the snow a couple of winters, it's 30mm lower than stock, and it's just fine in the snow.
@@the_steko you would need to find a different set of coilovers that have a greater adjustment range. There are some that in fact allow lifting higher than stock height, in addition to lowering. I'd recommend trying to find people that do overlander and baja builds on their vehicles to find out which models of coilovers work for your purpose. You can also reach out directly to the larger suspension manufacturers to ask specifically what model they have which will do what you want it to do. Koni and Bilstien are very responsive via email; I can't speak to other manufacturers but if you're wanting to go with H&R, reach out to them.
the master technician who came out to service (clean) my walk-in cooler was 255 an hour and his helper was 150 an hour. after all that, my evaporator was corroded and 5k for replacement. after paying almost 6k for it, I did learn something I didn't know as a restaurant owner.... he schooled me on the acidity from all the marinated food cause corrosive particulates in air, so I need to wash down the evaporator coil more often.
Washing the coils regularly to get rid of grease, dust, dirt, tree sap, bugs, bird poop, all the normal stuff that accumulates on an outside unit is good preventative maintenance. Inside units in a restaurant usually benefit from an actual coil cleaning spray and agitation with a brush to clean it out, plus we treat the condensation pans with tablets to keep bacterial growth from taking place.
Have tried those and a wide variety of professionally available chemical solvents, when I was an HVAC technician. The deposits we have here in SoCal are resistant. I'm sure there's something out there that works, but none of the usual suspects that won't damage the delicate aluminum coils.
Just a quick recommendation, you can hookup the battery tester without hooking to the jumper. That should make it easier to use so the big box is not just hanging
Or why not just try to use an air blower and blow all the mineral deposits out the coils, and make sure you put on a Kn 95 mask that’s another idea as well that will probably go a lot faster than grinding it for hours.
I think it’s great that you’re trying to clean up your AC condenser, but I feel like things would go a lot faster if you simply sprayed some type of chemical compound on all the coils all around, this would allow the chemical to burn all the water deposits out of the coils, that would ultimately allow airflow to be fully consistent again. Plus you would save hours of work and a head ache you don’t need. I hope this helps God bless and stay cool.✝️🙏🏻❄️🧊
I have yet to find a chemical spray that works effectively on the sort of hard water calcium deposits we have in Southern California... it's nasty stuff that only comes off with physical interaction.
How far can I extend the coilovers and still be safe. I need to raise the rear. So what's the thread overlap allowance on a 06 Impreza. Looks like I need to go up 4"
It's different from car to car. For fully threaded coilovers, you should be able to use the entire threaded area of adjustment. For ones that use only a threaded perch like Ground Control or something similar where the perch is also the coil retainer, I would not recommend raising it beyond the point you have at least half the threads engaged... but you should talk to the manufacturer of those coilovers to get specifics.
Some coilovers use a set screw instead of a second locking ring to keep them in place, so in that case you would not need a second spanner, just the tool to unlock the one ring, and one spanner to adjust it. Otherwise you need the second spanner to open the two adjusting rings with counteractive force.
I have the NT301 and it’s not stated for any specific make. Is the NT510 only for specific makes? I see them on Amazon specifying auto makers but what stops it from using it on other makes?
You can use the generic OBD2 code reader portion on any OBD2 car, but every manufacturer has proprietary factory level codes that require a specific code language reader to access. My GM specific reader will not see the factory codes on a Toyota, for example. And my VW/Audi reader will not see the codes on a GM.
just bought me one a second gen but i don’t have the VSC off light on but the one under the VSC TRAC light. it’s the one with vehicle with the tracks (wiggly lines) im trying to remember the name 😅 traction control!
I just did this repair to my wifes sequoia while replacing her head unit with a kenwood and I'm blown away. Ive got high end speakers in my sequoia with an amp and hers now sound 90% as good. I should've saved money on mine. For anyone on the fence do this repair and you won't regret it.
Thanks bro. This was an actual problem with me, but unfortunately it did not solve original problem, which is something in the right rear ABS sensor circuit. The voltage is reading between 0 and 0.2 volts as the wheel spins and the resistance is approximately 1,360 ohms all the way up to the module. I'm suspecting the module but I don't know how to test it
Hey there Brendan - came across your profile and wanted to ask a question about the Corrado. I have tried to file through your videos to see if you have already covered this, but could not seem to find it. I am currently trying to replace the transmission mount on my corrado and am having some trouble finding anyone who has done this before and could also offer some pointers. I have the replacement mount already and am trying to figure out access to the mount/what needs to be removed/loosened to swap in the new one. Thanks!
Check this out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-swnEEjytntk.html & start watching about 4:40 into the video. The Corrado transmission mount is a bit awkward to deal with but not too bad once you remove a bunch of small things so they're out of the way.
Great video. Several questions for you. (1) Do you have product links to the axel? (2) Did you add differential oil? (3) And are those the "Power Stop K2405 Rear Z23 Carbon Fiber Brake Pads"? Thanks in advance for your comments.
Hi there! We used a Duralast Gold (lifetime warranty) remanufactured OEM axle from Autozone. Based on the small amount of oil that escaped and the fact that we're going to be doing a differential oil change soon, we did not add any back in. Yes, those are the Power Stop brake rotors and pads on all four corners. I did a previous video installing them :) DO NOT go by a part number that someone else has used on those! There are two versions of the brakes on these SUVs, and you need to measure the brake pad to find out if they are the ones that use the 4.7" pads or the 5.3" pads. The rotors and pads and calipers are completely different and not interchangeable. Even the rotor hat offset is different on those. Measure yours first, then go with the Powerstop setup that matches.
It been a while since I flushed my coolant system as well, I'll have to try the upper radiator hose waterfall trick, looks like a more thorough way. You mentioned you changed the thermostat out for a low temp one, do you already have a low temp fan switch in the radiator? The last time I looked it seemed like there was a lot of different temperature variations.
Yes, I did do a low temp fan switch in addition to the low temp thermostat. I did not go with the lowest temperature range on either of those, which, if I recall correctly is 160°. I believe I went with the 175/180° setup on both.
@@CliffjumperCars that's good, I did the same but it was so long ago I need to do a refresh. Recently my car overheated after a drive cause the fans weren't coming on, and the only way they come on now is if I run the ac. Have you had a similar issue before?
@@billbradley6380 Yep. Fan switch was the culprit in my case. Fans worked with AC on, but only came on high speed with the fan switch - the low setting had stopped working. Easy to test with a multimeter, though it's not that accessible from up top. While you're in there you can test for signal from the fan control unit. That's another thing notorious for going bad.
@@CliffjumperCars I'm hoping that's all it is, plus it's such a cheap part anyway. When you checked the fan control unit (or module I think?), were you checking for power as well as a certain reading?
Wow, I’m really glad that I stumbled across this video what a brilliant and creative idea for sure. Replacing the wiper blades for eight bucks instead of spending 30 bucks a piece. This is a deal of a lifetime. Thanks for sharing. Are those MK1 Audi TT pin style wiper arms?
@@CliffjumperCars A Bugatti Veyron would be nice wouldn’t it? Especially 2 of them, but in all reality If I had to pick between the 2 I’d rather have 2 Corrado VR6”s than 2 Bugatti Veyrons Any given day! 😂🤣thank you for the confirmation, this video is now that much more exciting to watch because of those Audi MK1 TT wiper arms🥳🎉
@@CliffjumperCars Can you please post the part numbers for the driver side only for the MK1 Audi TT pin style wiper arms? I believe they use 2 driver-side wiper arms for the Audi TT wipers on the Corrado right?
@@Eurospec73 The part # is 8N1 955 407E. Here's one place you can get the Audi TT Mk1 aero wiper arms (you need two of the same part): parts.cartervw.com/p/Volkswagen__/WIPER-ARM/67821702/8N1955407E.html Here's the part# for the Valeo 20" blades that fit these arms: 900206B - you can search this part number on Amazon or various parts sites. Or you can search for a 2010 BMW X5 passenger side blade.
Brake fault light. It doubles as the e-brake light, but it comes on when there's an issue with the brake system. Separate from the ABS light, though that can get triggered too, with both of them coming on with some problems.
Recommend pvc delete to clean up all the vaccum lines Tug on the wastegate arm. Shouldnt b to budge, and no rattling from the wastegate flapper Take the n75 valve and blow air n and out on the side that goes to the wastegate. Should only get air to flow one way A tired factory diverter should b replaced
Can''t delete anything due to emissions testing we have where we live. Will look at the wastegate. N75 is new OEM. Diverter has been replaced with a Forge.
great vid. Did you need to disconnect the battery to remove and replace the ccm and then reconnect the battery or just switch it with the battery still connected?
Always a good idea to disconnect the battery ground when doing electrical work around ECU's, TCU's, or other control units. Too easy to fry an EPROM chip in them with a power surge that's not regulated otherwise.
My keyfob just have issue 2 days ago stop working also when i try to lock with key also locks and unlocks but not electric manually i push button inside locks but no hazards on also i check i change fuse and batery keyfob still nthg keyfob stops works at all i think it was faulty ccm ??
I'd recommend going through the factory key fob programming steps. I've never seen hazard lights flash when the car is locked from the inside button. Only when locked from the fob.