SurfRawFiles is documenting the best swells around the Globe, showing you the true highlights of the day! No Music, No bullshitting, just Raw Surfing here! These days i am based in Indonesia. If you like my page, please visit my patreon page! www.patreon.com/surfrawfiles Thank you!
"Rage, rage, rage against the dying of the light". Great video. Im a bit older than you and still learning after 40 years. Im not a good surfer but still want to be. I have far less courage now and accident averse, less energy. Surfing is very hard, especially the paddle out. I do yoga which is a massive help. Flexibility and strength plus breath work is key. Your a cool surfer mate and give me inspiration.
How much do you pay to stay because I have surfed lefts nicer than that for free. This place has turned into a real zoo I hear? Not trying to rag the guy and it's fun looking but is it worth it when my area is just as good on a regular basis.
I guess if the guy lives in Bali its also for "free" for him.. But doing a surfholiday to Bali is probably stupid yes as there are other islands with way less people in the water..
@@SurfRawFiles somehow I doubt most do live there going by the surfing. Not being a bastard I am genuinely curious as to cost to go there now that it has become so commercial and accessible. I am guessing it's not cheap like the old days and even then cheap is relative.
@@nicktrueman224 I think you can still do an Indo trip cheap, you can find those basic places to stay still for 10-20 usd and than 3 meals maybe another 10-15 usd, rice and fish..
niiiiice! that's me getting barreled at 3:45 -- didn't see the guy paddling back out until the last second coz the sun reflection on the water. close one!😅
I am about to turn 66 & still Surf at Home & Travel Surf heaps. Barry is right on the money. Good advice!! You have to keep at it! Keep Surfing & you will keep Surfing. Cheers Barry!
The lack of ago is inspiring, I am 60 next month and have been really struggling in the last few years. I will be ramping up the swimming after seeing this! You can boil an egg in the time it takes me to get to my feet.
It's definitely possible. I'm 53, and I swear I still keep getting a little better every year. I don't do any other training; I just surf EVERY day. I've only missed one day in the last 8 months. I got great advice from someone who waas 63 at the time with the body of a 20-year-old. He said, "Just...don't...stop." I've followed that advice over the years and watched everyone grow old around me while I still feel like a grommet. ;-)
