Hello, my name is Gabe and I like to tinker. I am a college student studying Mechanical Engineering. In my free time, I am usually out in the shop working on a random idea. I have a passion for vintage machines, cars, clothing, movies, and pretty much anything that is old. For the first project on this channel, we are going to be restoring my 1927 Ford Model T. So why don't you join me, and "Tinker with a T."
Do you or anyone in these comments have any info or knowledge on Essex? I have a 1931 super six with wooden wheels and it needs new tires and tubes Wood wheels are in good shape) but I need to find some info on how to take off the wheel and then I can bring them to a specialty shop who can do that work! Thanks!
I heard that people used leather lining in the bands, not sure if it works but I considered making a few bands and just buying the lining rivets since I have a 1927 T.
You really don't need the $75 cast iron rear wheel removing tool. A $19 three jaw 8" gear puller from Harbor Freight works perfectly. Just set the jaws onto the outer edge of the brake drum and you're good to go!
Thanks for the educational video! My 1923 T has a freeze plug that came loose. I ordered the brass plugs but have heard of the buffalo nickel trick. I'll be replacing all 3. I actually thought the domed side would face inward but your explanation makes sense. That may be in the Ford manuals but I haven't had a chance to look yet.
Interesting video introduction to your car. I'm getting a late start but I intend to watch all the videos. I have a 1926 Model T Two-door. I've had this car for about 2 months and I feel fortunate that it has no rust and is complete even to a Ruckstell axle. Since it sat for 5 years I have hope it will run, but as of now, I am going through the entire car with cleanup and maintenance. Hope to be driving soon. Yep, I am slow and methodical.
Next time show the use of the tool and how you went about removing the wheel. Let others see the process instead going from wheel on, to wheel off in a single frame.
Don’t be afraid to put some paint on that engine. I use a satin black that looks better than glossy. Also .. you are running rough. I think you need to adjust gas mixture in the carburetor by the needle valve. That is adjusted by the rod on the firewall. Start out rich for starting (anti-clockwise) and then turn clockwise to lean it out for smoother combustion.
I always appreciate when people bring some life back into these old vehicles. Its too bad some people put these cars out to rot. I have never understood that. Thank you and good luck in your restoration process.
So cool! I have been helping a lady from our church with an estate sale and they have a 1925 model T touring car. In very restorable condition. I found the outer head light glass in the shop and one was really blueish.... they even have a second engine and tyranny to go with it. Several extra wheels too. I have no idea how much to ask for it either. Since you live in Washington State and I live in Oregon, what can I expect to get out of a decent Model T? Thanks. I have really enjoyed your videos.
I really liked the way that wood turned out. The wheels look like they have a patina instead of glowing new in your face. I hope the other two turn out as well.
Do you use an acid-etching primer before using the Rust-oleum paint? Also, can you identify the actual name of the Rust-oleum paint product that you used? A photo of the paint can with label would have been nice. I have use Por15 in the past, but it is costly, and you do not want to get spatter spots on you, as well as the container lid s easy to get welded at the top if you don't know how to properly store it. Rust-oleum has so many various paints, that I just wanted to see which one you used. I would suspect that Tractor Supply farm implement paint would be a good choice, as well, but I have not used it in the past. Thanks.
I wish you had shown how you actually removed the body in this episode instead of just the frame with it already removed. I am wondering how much weight the typical roadster body will have when it is removed, as well as the best way to actually take it off of the frame. A lot of your info works just as well on my 1925 roadster as I rebuild it or at least as I work through removing parts and such. Is the actual body removal a two-man job with the turtle deck already removed on it? Thanks.
It is a two man job, it is helpful to take out the steering column, but the motor is low enough that I can lift it over with a helper very easily. The body on a 26 or 27 is all steel structure, a 25 will have some wood structure and I have not done much with them, if it is rotten it might pose more problems. Happy Tinkering!
Tack weld on a small nut to those carriage bolts at the head and then they can be held by a socket as you remove the lower nuts to each bolt. Just a tip to consider, as many of these have wallowed out the square holes for the bolt to be inserted into and thus turn so easy that you can't grab them with a pair of pliers or vise grips. Cutting off the heads and drilling them are options, but this tip works pretty well and the replacement bolts are pretty cheap. Nice video.
Soak those would spoke wheels in water and they’ll tighten up. My grandfather said they used to drive them into a stream and let them sit for a while to swell up the spokes just like they did wagon wheels.
You did a fantastic job with this series, the production, sound and video quality are professional quality. I too am impressed with the T, I have a few , most in pieces. There is a complicated history if you want to get the details right but everything you said was spot on. I think it's time to put the T on solid works - from the 1908 models to the last one off the line.
The official FORD name for this model is the runabout. I would replace the spokes but this car is in excellent shape. It looks correct and original for 1924. Starters were added to the car in 1918. They were optional before that.
It had low horsepower but the torque was high and so the reason for only 2 speeds made it simple to drive. Just remember 20mph was very fast in 1920's on all those bad dirt roads. When the demand for the Model A came , because it had a clutch and it had to be double clutched too... many people mostly woman could not drive them. Yes the T was way ahead of its time... as far as ease of driving.
Most model t honors I've talked to appreciate The Rock still like you said if they live in a hilly area and flatlands you might not need it but it helps big time and areas where there is some serious elevation changes
Love the Model T ignition system; it's one of the endearing features of these lovely old cars. Nice job on the restoration, and the video. So cool how you just carried-on when the electricity was out! Olde Skule Kule.
Nice car, lucky man. I've always heard of this business of priming the engine and the just turning on the ignition and the engine just jumps into life but I've never seen it. Nice job, well done.
