Thanks for the correction.

If I remember right the throttle linkage is a ball type linkage that should pop off if you pull the linkage opposite of the ball.

@@MazdaB3K Thanks! Very helpful!

Yes. You can put a dab of anti-seize on the threads that go into the block so that the plug won't get stuck when you remove it down the road. The di-electric grease is for the spark plug boot. Di-electric grease keeps moisture away from the actual connection to ensure good spark from the coil to the plug. One thing to keep in mind is that the 2V 5.4L does have an issue with shooting out spark plugs that are not properly torqued. Make sure you torque to spec when you install... or what I always do is a smidge past "tight" and it's never done me wrong.

Spongy pedal generally indicates air in the system somewhere. Normally you get air from a leak somewhere in the system. As to reusing a drum, if the drum isn't terribly worn or ridged it can be re-used no issue. If it's ridged it need to be replaced or if the drum is still thick enough it can be turned. Most local auto part stores can turn a drum for you for a small fee.

@@MazdaB3K thank you 🙏 have not access yet the rear breaks to see what I need only purchased new shoes not familiar with the vocabulary of parts but maybe I’m confusing drums with cylinders

@@TomSkyNet Ok then, a short primer: Brake Drums: Big circular metal cover that goes over all the other brake stuff. The brake shoes press against this to stop your vehicle Brake Shoes: The part that does the stopping. Metal brackets with brake lining glued to them that are pushed outward by the piston arms of a wheel cylinder Wheel Cylinder: The hydraulic part of drum brakes. The small cylinder generally in the middle top of a drum brake setup with two piston arms that "push" the brake shoes outward so they press against the brake drum and create friction, slowing down your vehicle. When you press the brake pedal, brake fluid is pushed into the wheel cylinder via a brake line and then pushes the piston arms out to push on the brake shoes.

@@MazdaB3K thank you ! Yes now small correction to my question is it absolutely necessary to replace wheel hydraulic cylinder while changing shoes and how to tell if they need replacement 👏🙏

@@TomSkyNet Wheel cylinders will generally start to leak from their rubber seals when they fail. So if you see evidence of brake fluid inside of the drum, leaking out of the drum or puddling on your tire generally you have a bad wheel cylinder. That being said, they generally aren't that expensive so changing them with a known good can be cheap insurance. In general, if wheel cylinders have been sitting for a very long time they tend to fail as well.

Thanks for the sub! TPS isn't horrible on this truck. Just make sure you get the idle position on the sensor right.

@@MazdaB3K thanks bro

You are most welcome. This van fights me tooth and nail... the risk you take when you buy a vehicle sight unseen.

They can be quite irritating. Often it's not the clamp itself, it the access to the clamp. The angle of the dangle you might say.

Great! Glad that I could help.

Nope. Just took them out cold.

I took my multimeter and touched one probe the where the harness connects to a glowplug. I took the other probe to the lug on the glow plug relay where the harness is connected to the relay. I set the meter to Ohms (horseshoe thing) and checked for resistance. I wanted .2 Ohms or less for each wire, and that's what I found.

You are most welcome, random RU-vid person. Make sure you get either a Ford style puller or Univesal puller as the GM and I think Dodge have a different setup you have to use. Also has to be used with the pump already installed otherwise you wind up with a bolt that you can't get reinstalled. Ask me how I know.

Happy to help.

Mazda made is nice and easy to do, so why not?

Nice! I traded the truck for a 1964 F100, but I have a chance to get my B series back... with upgrades. I'll know more in September.

It sounds like command to turn on is being sent to both burners. I would consult the wire diagram that should be taped to the back of the oven to see what circuit controls that and go from there. Offhand I can't be of much more assistance.

If those needed replacing that would mean the PCM was losing "time" for the engine which would make it run quite poorly.

Woah. Really? I would have thought someone else would have done it, maybe a company or something.

I haven't made any purchases yet, but this website seems to carry Pro Air parts. Pro Air itself went out of business a few years ago, so get the parts while you can. www.comfortairgr.com/

Possibly. I know that Ford and Mazda had a deep partnership that had ended not that long before this vehicle was made, not sure if either party still had the appetite to do technology agreements.

Happy I could help.

The glow plug controller is extremely sensitive to resistance as that is how it determines if the engine is hot or cold and how much glow to run. The only thing I could think of was that the anti-seize that I put on the glow plugs altered the resistance enough that it caused the controller to spaz out. As seen in the video, I checked everything per Ford specification and found it to be within spec. This is why ultimately I modified the glow controller to be a manual, momentary switch activation. That has been working fine since I converted it.

Good to know. Thanks for the comment.

@@MazdaB3K ye, should also note the sterling axle uses the 3" pad drums but has the same 8 lug pattern, chevy also uses the same parts

I did know about the pad difference. Initially my brother bought the bigger pads for this job on accident and had to return everything.

@@MazdaB3K know that feeling, the HD has a bunch of unique traits vs other f250 trucks making buying parts a pain till you know exactly what the thing you need is called, ended up buying a door lever at a scrap yard after 2 days of searching because it's not sold new, the easy fix would be to just swap the door with any regular f250 that had control bars instead of cables, then i have some weird cab stuff going on as well, power rear window but no switch on the dash for it, almost looks like someone wrecked it and swapped stuff around to make it work, lol

It is a five minute fix if the engine is already out. Otherwise, yes definitely not a five minute job.

Wow, I never thought I would get a comment for this video! Thanks for watching! My son got many years(and miles) out of this toy. Good quality but don't buy the extended batteries... kids can go pretty far on them if you are not paying attention...

@@MazdaB3K I love how you went through every step and gave time for me to look at my own project before you moved on.

I try to make my videos in a way that a complete beginner to wrenching and repair can follow and succeed. I sometimes get comments that I talk way too much, which I do. But I figure that if you need to fast forward to get to the part you need, you can.

Thanks for the comment. Yeah, thinking about ICE engines as air pumps really changes how you think of them. The thing I forgot in this video that is also relevant is gas engines make vacuum because they have a throttle plate. When you are at WOT, the throttle plate is mostly open, hence little vacuum. When at idle, throttle plate is almost closed, so max vacuum. The reason why diesels have to have vacuum pumps is they don't have a throttle plate.

Glad I could help a friend across the pond. I found the F-350 brakes to be easier than working on the 1997 E-150 I have or the 1993 F-250 I had to work on in the past.

@@MazdaB3K not a lot of info over here all though ive had a good few us cars and not many of them about either as gas here would be around 10 dollers a gallon or more so a lot of fiat etc desiel vans fiat same as promaster well in looks ive been doing this one for a bit its got the 5.8 in it and only 34 k miles backed by the service history its been converted to a class b by bigfoot app rare only 52 ever done still an e 350 just a rare conversion a few probs fuel pump brake lines etc fuel pump had to go through the floor as no other choice as a water tank along side it so cant get to hanger bolts as the water tank has been coverd in fiberglass etc transmission flued is on the list so more fun

I have another video that deals with a part I call a fan controller than can go bad and will cause the fans not to kick on. In the short term run your AC. That should cause the fans to run for the AC which should help with cooling until you solve this issue. On my channel page, click the 2010 Ford Fusion playlist and it should have the fan controller video in it.

I try to help where I can. I figure that someone else out there has need of doing this, particularly with this van. Not much maintenance information out there about it.

If you have an o2 sensor that is not "flipping" rapidly it might be bad. As laid out in this video MAF is always a good place to check, as well as checking fuel pressure at the rail to see if maybe you are lean from a fueling perspective. You can also check to see if the fuel pressure regulator is going bad on you, that would cause potential lean/rich issues as well.

@@MazdaB3Ksince I had been chasing a lean code in Bank 2 before, I had already replaced the MAF sensor, the fuel pressure regulator (getting good pressure), fuel pump and a plethora of things. Turned out the issue was a peaky vacuum leak, which took care of the lean condition in bank 2. Fast forward three or so months later and I started getting a rich code in bank 1 with LFTF for rhat bank at -27 and -14. I took care of a few more thibgs, including replacing the orings on the throttle shaft for a smoke test leak on the sides of the throttle body and the short snd long trims are excellent for a 20+ vehicle, now switching +/- 7% and the ltft at -1.56 for that bank. Two days ago I started getting the P1132 and noticing the upstream sensor in bank one pegged at 0.974 so I switched the aftermarket with a Bosch OE, and it is still the same, although today’s test drive I noticed it lazily switching between 0.94 and 0.897 which is not much. I also noticed a strong smell of fuel/fumes around the front wheel well of the passenger side (bank 1) so I plugged my smoke machine to the exhaust pipe to see if the exhaust manifold or anywhere else before the cat is leaking, but nothing. I’m really losing it!!!

It sounds like you've already dug into this pretty deep. One part that doesn't make sense to me is that a brand new OE bosch sensor is not flipping as it ought. That makes me think some sort of electrical issue. Have you checked the condition of the major engine grounds around the engine bay and under the vehicle?

@@MazdaB3Knot really, although I’ve been reading a bit today and seems possible for electrical to be the culprit. Yet I am stomped because if I understood correctly, all 4 sensors should ground to a single point in the pcm, so I’d think that the bank 2 sensors would also be having an issue, what do you think? My bank 2 sensors are switching correctly with upstream switching between 0.1 and 0.8 and downstream staying below 0.2, which makes sense on the lean state. I had my obd scanner app (xtool with the am30 plugin) record my last trip which shows a plethora of information which I am just starting to learn. I’ve kept my eyes on the o2 voltages, the fuel trims and the throttle position sensor since I broke the original one servicing the throttle body and did not calibrate the new one correctly so was getting an error, thankfully got that figured out today. By the way, even though the p1132 is showing as “stored code” and also I think p1136 (new one showing an issue with bank 1 sensor 2), and the former having set a freeze frame, neither appeared to have triggered the cel (yet) and don’t come up when I run the dtc diagnostic. I am really stumped…I was thinking of switching bank 1 sensor to bank 2 and see if it follows there, although I find it hard to believe that two sensors would be showing the same 0.97 voltage, although a possibility. I’m also wondering if the Bosch sensor is in the correct position; the part for this vehicle gives me two different part numbers, 15717 and 15719 (the one i got) and both are listed as upstream sensors in the autozone site, where I got them, and have not found anywhere else with info to compare as even pricing is the same. I’ve read some places that upstream/downstream are not interchangeable, but then again every motorcraft o2 sensor i have found is listed as downstream and when I checked a Ford part’s website it just lists one part number suitable for all positions. Sorry for the long reply, I just haven’t had found anyone to troubleshoot with and figured talking out loud (or typing) might provide that breakthrough I’m looking for or a separate brain to pick. 🤷🏻

The multi part number thing is normally where you have identical sensors but the wire pigtails are different lengths. I had to replace the downstream on my 1997 E-150 and ran into the same issue. As to grounds, the PCM should have a ground and there will be grounds placed all around the engine for the various sensor and circuit paths. One way you can check the pathing of a particular area is to check the resistance from that point to the negative side of the battery. You are looking for ~2 ohms or less. Anything higher than that generally means a loose ground, missing ground or corroded ground. I'm not familiar with the scan tool you are using, but if you are working with a Ford product you can use Forscan. It's a free software you can download to your phone or laptop that as long as you have a compatible wireless OBD2 dongle (can be bluetooth or wireless). Forscan gives you the powers of a dealer level scan tool, allowing you to see live data that most other scanners simply won't provide.

This video is doing surprisingly well. Who knew that the Internet wanted to see me blow into a check valve? I have also released the companion video to this where I replace the power brake booster.

yeah. I snuck it out without needing to remove the dryer, but I had to remove the dryer in order to get the room to wiggle it back in.

Would cost an extra .5 cents per bag. Can't have that.

@@MazdaB3K so I ended up buying a dy1145, and it in fact came with instructions- but not for that particular sensor. They were generic and only showed how to use the heat shrink LOL. But the sensor fixed my problem immediately, and the truck runs so much better and engine light went off. Crazy

I'm not familiar with the plumbing on a dual climate system. Are there dual blend doors for each side of the cabin? You mentioned you replaced the blend door, did you also check the actuator to make sure it's working as it should?

@@MazdaB3K yeah two blend door actuators, one on each side. And yes it turns to cold to hot if I control from the main dial, basically single climate. But when I activate dual the passenger temp dial doesn't work. It just stays on cold, it's already been calibrated also so I'm thinking the HVAC module could be partially faulty?

Could be. When I made this video I was guessing that was the problem as everything else I understood to be a part of the system I validated. My guess was right.

I used locking pliers and much grunting. I didn't have the right tools for this job, just locking pliers, screwdrivers and grunting lol.

I did use a sparkplug socket. As to the other tools you mentioned, they were not required. I might not of even owned swivel sockets at the time honestly.

I can probably find a wire diagram of that area, but all of that wiring is in the connector that is plugged into the selector switch. If you have one sender working and one not, it could be your sender is bad as well. I can tell you that both senders use a common ground, at least on the diesel so if one sender is working and one is not a ground is probably not your culprit.

@MazdaB3K my switch has always done that,even after replacing with the new Chinese copy. Only one wire out to the guage registers on the guage, when I switched each tank wire to that wire it registered what was in each tank. I'm thinking I might need to connect both of those tank wires up to a switch that separates both wires connected to that switch I can switch when I switch tanks labeled the same as the tank switch ( front & back) and when switching switch them both when switching tanks. Nobody seems to be able to figure this out, so,I thinkI will try that. Now just need to buy the right switch. The new plug and switch were wired differently, and I tested how it wired up to get tthem right. I believe.i drew a diagram when I did it, but I can figure it out again later. Right n9w I run the tank that doesn't show on the guage first, by mileage per gallon knowing by the odometer when it will run out, and then listen for it to crap out, then I switch to the tank that shows the level and run till I need more gas, to be sure not to run out. Sometimes I need an extra 5 gallon tank in cases where I'm not near a filling station Just in case. Thanks for trying anyway, I'll figure it out, as this seems not very complicated.

All Data didn't have a diagram of the fueling system for an 85 unfortunately. It did note that Ford issued a TSB for the sender connector failing and then having to be spliced to get it working again. Ford all issued a TSB that the sender connector itself should be heavily packed in dielectric grease to prevent failures. I'm guessing issues with senders was something that was common on that era of Ford Econoline van.

Thanks for the info.

Glad I was able to help.

Yes. Take the switch out of line with the key and you can do everything the key does from the switch. Pre-transponder key vehicles are not that hard to get started without a key if you get access to the ignition switch...

Could be, but at 36k miles I would be very surprised if it's plugs. Honestly nothing should be funny at 36k. Engine is barely broke in at that point. That has a tiny EcoBoost engine right? Could be plugs, coils, a sensor slightly off (MAF in particular) IAC valve being funny, tons of things can cause a slightly rough idle. I'd either wait until is harsher so that you can more easily test stuff, or you can grab an OBD2 scanner with live data and start checking data and see if something looks amiss. There is also a free program called Forscan you can download to your laptop or phone that if paired with a wireless OBD2 dongle will allow you to track and measure TONS of data. It could also simply be whatever powerplant that TC has just has a little rough idle. This is a poor comparison, but the 1994 Mazda B3000 that is my channel icon had a rough idle I could not fix. Didn't matter what parts I threw at it, how I tuned it, always had a little stumble at idle. The Vulcan 3.0L it has just wouldn't get quite right.

It will help but make sure you've validated the rest of the braking system first. Extend the rod too much and the master cylinder won't be able to fully retract causing issues.

Yup, that you do, but only when you move your AC control to Max AC essentially. It's a HVAC vacuum leak so it really shouldn't affect engine operation, but you may have some oddness when you are accelerating up a hill or under heavy throttle. Easiest thing you can do is put a nipple of some sort in the cut end, then cap the nipple. No more leak then.

Unless you also drain the coolant out of the block, you are going to have some coolant still in the system. I would not recommend adding water unless you intend to pull a block drain and get all the coolant out. If you are doing that, flush with demineralized water as standard water will contain minerals and such that will help cause corrosion over long periods of time. Then you would drain out all the demineralized water, then fill with fresh coolant.

Are you talking about the bracket that holds the actual parking brake cable?

@@MazdaB3K yes that bracket is little rubbing the axle there’s almost no gap between

If I remember correctly that is supposed to be in held in place on a pin that sticks out of the brake shoe. The bracket has to be inserted in the correct order so it doesn't hit a spreader bar that goes between the two brakes shoes. There's also supposed to be a flat washer on top of the bracket at the pin, then a horseshoe shaped clip that holds it all in place. My suggestion is check the order in which all the parts have been put in and see if something is out of sequence. You may also want to inspect the bracket it self and make sure it isn't bent.

@@MazdaB3K ok washer and clip all in the right order. I believe like you said it may have a bent bracket. I’ll check that. Thank you very much for the help

@@ashokjames3467 sure thing

I didn't count the pins. The shape of the MLPS is different for the earlier year E4ODs 1989-1994 or so. They also have a different shaped connector. Though even if you buy the different shape, they still come with a converted connector they expect to you splice on.

Been a minute since I did this... if you had a lifting plate you would have more options. I didn't so I made do with what I had. In general you lift from a place with decent bolts. In practice that is generally the intake or the cylinder heads if the intake is off.

If the nozzle is shutting off that means the gas tank is over pressurizing. That is generally caused by a clogged charcoal filter or your evap purge valve is not working or the hose that links it all together has a clog somewhere.

Order of operations can be quite key in most things we do in life. Thanks for the comment.