Welcome to BeerWrench Garage. This is a channel where I will typically drink beer and talk about one of three things: 1.) Cars, 2.) My car projects 3.) tools. This channel is centered on the various issues I run into with my personal projects and how I learn from and overcome them.
This is a nearly 20 year old car with 215K miles on it. At some point you have to draw the line. Also, taking the fender off this car is a pain in the back end.
No, in my case, I did not. If I recall, the replacement rack was an exact duplicate of the one we were pulling out. Im sure the Volkswagen/Audi software has a parameter that CAN be programmed for a new rack, but in this case it wasnt necessary.
You implied storing car outside in winter is bad for corrosion. There is a theory, when vehicle is covered in salt its better to leave it parked outside. Reason is the garage will melt the snow and ice, allowing the salt to start corroding your vehicle. If you leave it outside, the salt stays frozen, no damage done. At least not as fast as a daily application and then melting of salt, as in daily driver on salted roads, then parked in the garage. I now live in the south, so I have not been able to test this theory personally. I have used products similar to these, but none of the brands mentioned. Reason being I'm retired aircraft maintenance, and absolutely zero corrosion is acceptable on an aircraft. The stuff I used is only available for professional use, not home use. For whats its worth, if your trying to choose between which product is a higher quality, the good stuff is more waxy and less oily, dripping isnt usually a concern.
So which position of preload makes for a softer ride? My ride height is acceptable but the stiffness of these ECS units I put on my E36 a few weeks back are way too bouncy and hard riding, esp on the front with the various terrible sidestreets here. Looking for a more compliant ride with these while having raised the car to suit my old crippled ass now.
Thanks for the view and comment, Brother. They are pretty small and lightweight, so its shouldn't be too much additional to ship from the States to Australia!
just cut a 2x8 to cover the lifting pucks and go to town on the quick jack..... for those of us in the snow belt, will the 2x screws damage the pinch weld where they make contact? do/should I need a marine grease in that area to prevent hidden rust from forming? could one shoot marine grease in the voids of the pad after it is installed to mitigate rust forming?
👍👍👍👍👍 Phenomenal comment and question! Thanks for the suggestion on the 2x8! Absolutely great question - I think if I was deep in the rust belt, I would absolutely squeeze some type of rust preventative or lube in the small cavity of the lifting pucks. I dont think the screws will damage the pinch weld unless you gorilla them - they only have so much are they can travel and the body of the puck is going to limit their excessive travel. Thanks again for the comment! Check out my next video - its along the line of the question you asked!
Thanks for the comment! These are great - but keep in mind, they are not cheap - they go for about $140 + tax & shipping - so I would only put them on a car that is worth preserving.
I’ve personally never understood why Jack stands aren’t built with the pinch welds in mind. These are a good idea, though I’d caution that you can’t use the standard scissor jack when these are installed.
Awesome comment - thank you! Some jackstands do in fact have a groove for a pinch weld, but yes you are right, sometimes it gets awkward to use a flat top jackstand under a pinch weld. Also, with the jacking pucks, installed, there is still a considerable amount of pinch weld present, so you should still be able to utilize a scissor jack in a roadside situation.
because they were designed for cars that use the frame or solid rear axle as a lift/stand point. It's a matter of copying an old design and not doing research on a new design. However, with that said, not all pinch welds are the same. But should be close enough for one design to fit most cars.
This video was brilliant i did mine years ago and the setup was horrible and car was all over the road but the instructions were in german (good old kw for you) but this gives me hope of actually just setting them up in the house on a day off and fitting to the car knowing its done correctly thanks for the video 😎
I've been working on/building and or setting up track cars and high performance road cars for forty years (yes 40) this year. I've worked with some of the best suspension experts in the southern hemisphere the latest being Sam Macintosh from Marinello Motorsports. SOOOOOOO This guy doesn't even know the correct terminology or how to explain what he's talking about as seen by him stumbling over HUD words SPRING RATES ARE SET BY THE MANUFACTURERS. YOU CAN CUSTOM ORDER ANYTHING YOU LIKE SO ... IF YOU INTENTIONALLY LOAD A COIL SPRING IT THEN OVER RIDES THE FACTORY SET COMPRESSION AND REBOUND EVEN ON AN ADJUSTABLE DAMPER MAKING IT INTO A POGO STICK. IF YOU NEED TO INCREASE THE WAY A VEHICLE FEELS ON THE ROAD OR TRACK BUY THE CORRECT🎉 FUCKING SPRINGS WITH AN INCREASED RATE BUT ALSO TELL THE SUPPLIER WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND WHY AND THEY WILL TELL YOU WHAT NEEDS TO HAPPEN TO YOUR DAMPERS SO TGEY CAN DO THEIR JOB AND CONTROL THE SPRING OSCILLATIONS WHEN A VEHICLE IS LIFTED AND AND THE SUSPENSION IS UNWEIGHTED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SPIN THE COIL BY HAND AROUND THE BODY OF THE DAMPER.
This video is about how to physically set preload on the coilover unit per the MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFIED RECOMMENDATION. What are you going on about??? Feel free to email me at beerwrenchkc@gmail.com if you want to get into details.
Thanks for the fantastic question!!! There is no set timeframe or mileage for when a bushing needs to be replaced. There are many many factors that play into the life of a bushing: the type of use it sees, the material its made of, the quality of its construction, the environment it lives in, the type of grease it receives, the quality of the supporting components around it, and probably numerous other factors. Certainly, when you can see damage, hear noise, or feel instability it is time to replace bushings!
Agreed. Sorry about that - since this video, Ive switched to recording with a better camera and Im looking at options for a microphone. Thanks for the view and the feedback!
I ordered a front bumper from them for a 2021 Mazda CX-5 Snowflake White Pearl. Color match was not as good as yours (I even mailed them an actual 6"x6" sample of the original front bumper for a good paint match). There was no adhesion promoter put on before they painted, it pealed where it was folded. I carefully drilled parking sensor holes with new step bit and paint pealed back around holes. The license plate bracket screws going into bumper started pealing around there also. They did give me a refund. I'll make sure I don't ever pressure wash the front bumper and try to avoid rock hits.
I agree with your comment - I didn't like that you couldn't rotate the larger led to 90 degree.. That is my biggest complaint. I would have been much happier if it would allow you to rotate it 90 degrees on it's pivot.
Hey Bro! I was JUST thinking about you earlier in the day - glad to hear from you - thanks for the comment and view! Looking forward to seeing how your projects are coming along.
@@beerwrenchgarage lol I haven't done much. It has been way too hot here with 90% humidity. The bugs are insane! Deer flies, horse flies, yellow flies, gnats etc... Love the car. Always been a fan of the wrx.
Thanks Yogi! Yes, there was a lot of gnashing of teeth when these cars were introduced a while back - but from a structural perspective, they are a significant improvement over the previous generation.
Lots of good points! My hands are always sweaty, oily, and i prefer an aggressive knurling. I also have some older duralast tools that are fine, however this set does look disappointing.
They make the same kit with impact sockets. With the performance and availability of battery operated impact wrenches I've stopped buying chrome except for 1/4
If just going with a 1/4 set. Can't beat the quinn set... it'll do everything it calls for plus more...buy the quinn and put In in the trunk. And call it good
@beerwrenchgarage yes, true icon has a bit better finish. But depending on people if it's worth the extra expense. I'd personally like to have my metric separate. And a set no one talks about is imo the unbeatable tekton 3/8 42 piece mater set. Goes up to 24mm. Where as most others only goes up to 19mm. Even the tekton 3/8 kit is a better deal. But yes. Icon do have a nice case. But sometimes you'll want those larger socket
