I have a similar old kiln but it has two dails for bottom and top, low and high. How many hours in between the low setting and high setting you think I should wait?
great question! I dont have a ton of experience with dial kilns so let me ask you this, does yours have numbers or a range between high and low where you can turn it up one number every couple of hours or is it more like an on off situation where you can only turn it from low to high and you can feel it click in place at the low or high setting?
Great question! It actually has to do with the clay you use. The clay also determines the type of glaze you use as well. When you buy clay, it will be classified as low, midrange, and high fire clay. On the listing, package, or website, youll find what cones to fire the specific clay at. A low fire clay will be fired to somewhere between 06-04. A midrange claybody will fire to somewhere between cone 4-6 usually and a high fire is usually cone 9 or 10. Sometimes a glaze or clay will say high fire and be rated for a cone 5 so always check with the manufacturer to see what they rate it at. Of course you always fire the clay in a bisque firing first which is usually a cone 04-06. The manufacturer will usually put bisque temperatures on either the claybody or the glaze. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@thepottereden thank you so much , i really appreciate your kindness and insight! i just bought a kiln like yours with the switches so i loved this video ! thank you again!!
@@madisontaylor5109 I am so glad i could be helpful! I am glad to answer any questions you may have! I have lots of videos on throwing and handbuilding and little things ive picked up on my clay journey that may be helpful to you as well. If you think of anything else, just drop me a comment! I will always answer at some point. I havent uploaded in a while because life has been busy but im still very active and always answering comments. May your clay adventure be successful, fun, and full of learning!
@@terryciraulo1236 i only exist on RU-vid but you can click my picture next to my comment here and it will take you there! Make sure to subscribe so it’s easy to find me later
I sure did! I dont usually do that but I didnt want to wait to fire my glaze firing, wait for it to cool, and then wait until I had enough for a bisque to put that in and then do another glaze firing! lol I am too impatient for that. It is totally fine to skip a bisque for the most part. I wouldnt suggest always doing this but if you want or need to, just make sure the firing ramps up much slower than normal and make sure that your piece is very very dry (especially after you glaze it)
It's really helpful but I'm confused with the colour part mine I'm wondering if I should paint it or not because it's 2 days. I'm also worried because it's kind of thick(mine)
Hi! Thanks so much for watching and I am glad that my tutorial was helpful! I used underglaze before I did my initial bisque firing. I watered down red, yellow, and orange and did a "wash" with the colors to blend them together more and make it look more like a real leaf. I meant to video myself painting this leaf but I think my phone didnt record or I forgot all together. After I painted with underglaze and did my bisque firing, I glazed it with clear glaze and did my glaze fire. To speak more into the thickness you are dealing with, it may be alright so long as you let your clay dry completely before firing and when you go to do the firing, do it as slowly as you can. The faster the firing, the more likely it will be to break. I hope that helps!
That was really inspiring! I made a mug this morning using your method and it was just so much easier than the way I was taught in the studio where I have been for the last 18 months. I always failed at mugs! I have only been a potter for two years, as I think I told you, and my work really advanced. I think in some ways my instructor was maybe intimidated? Gosh, that sounds terrible to write out! But I started selling in high end galleries where she also sold(she introduced me to the owner) and I think she ultimately was unhappy about this and she stopped helping me with some basic skills. I’m a carver at heart, and a lot of my work involves that medium. However, now that I have my own studio I realize I lack some of the basics that she neglected to teach me. Your videos have really filled in the gaps! Your slab handle making was a live saver! I’ve rewatched your mug making video so many times just to make sure I had it right. Thank you so much for your wonderful teaching skills. You said you were an art teacher, as I once was in elementary school, and it shows! I later became a classroom teacher, teaching 5th grade and 2nd grade mostly during my career. I’m retired now. ❤️ Again, thanks so, so much! I look forward to watching all of your videos! If I can figure out how to do instagram, I’ll send you a link. But I don’t do any of that now. 😂
Wow! I love your story! Congrats on selling in high end galleries! That is so amazing! I am sorry that your instructor was so petty in that way and didnt give you full instructions but im so glad my videos helped to bridge that gap in your knowledge! If theres anything else in particular that youre struggling with, please dont hesitate to comment and ill do my best to answer your questions or even make a full video for you!
@@thepottereden Thank you! One of my biggest issues is making clean edges and sides. It sounds so basic! I end up with things that look a little wonky a lot of the time. Any advice? And thank you!
@@anniematheson426 as for edges, i would say, try making your wet sponge into an upsude down taco shape putting your thumb on the edge and bending it around your thumb with your other fingers on top. Run that taco along the edges with a medium to light pressure and be patient with it. It takes many swipes. I also like to build my piece and wait until it is between plastic and leather hard (called leather soft) to do a lot of blending and smoothing so my piece has more structure and stability to handle me taxing it👍 i hope that helps! If it doesnt, let me know!
@@thepottereden Thank you! I’ll try that. I think one of my problems is that I don’t wait until my pieces get leather hard 🤪 because I’m very impatient! I really have been doing a better job with this, I think! Thanks for taking the time to answer. I made two pumpkins. Both were a little wonky, but they were my first try, and they were still very cute! I’m making some more today. I added some stems on top! ❤️
@@anniematheson426 i totally get the impatience! Sometimes i go out and check 10 times before its ready to be sponged over! Good! That sounds awesome! I am glad you liked the tutorial and you were able to follow! Sometimes i wonder if i am not specific enough in my instruction. And im glad to take the time to respond! Its one of my favorite parts of having this channel😉👍
Your videos have been more helpful to me than any other pottery videos I have found online, by far! I have been doing pottery for just about 2 years and I just started doing it on my own and it can be so overwhelming! Your videos are simple to follow, basic without being condescending and really inspiring. I’d be glad to send you some pictures. I hate to admit I’m terrible with technology! 😂 Do I just attach one here when I make my mugs? Getting older is tough! 😂😂😂 Also, you mentioned you had a video about making handles?
@@anniematheson426 aww! YAY! I am so so glad I could be of service! I am an art teacher by trade and started my pottery business in 2020 when the world shut down. I married the two with my youtube channel and love it! I have been pretty busy lately so I havent been able to make any new videos but have a bunch planned when things start calming down and honestly have 2 that are half way edited but I havent had the time or energy to finish! I am actually not sure how photos would work. I used to stay in touch with people through instagram and send and recieve photos through their messaging system but I have since deleted it. I didnt think about that. Facebook has gotten pretty bad and instagram is owned by them. I try to stay away from social media as much as I can. Life is better and happier that way. Let me think on it, and I will comment back about how to send me some photos! Yeah! I will link the videos of mine that have to do with making different types of handles! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xHMeI11E4_4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m1HGHZGP8Wg.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0gSOIWT7iJI.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nOLkl9YsHG0.html
@@SamanthaSweetAnne wow!!! Well its tons of fun! I get my clay from a local clay maker here in texas. You can buy from mayco, amaco, Sheffield pottery, or Laguna clay, just to name a few! Just make sure your cone temps match for your clay and glaze so they play nice together😉
@@SamanthaSweetAnne i know! Wheels are way up there unfortunately. I bought mine from fb marketplace. I dont mind my wheel, its very middle of the road but if you one day want a workhorse, Brent is your brand, but theyre even more expensive than $1000
have you ever put in your cone but forgot to put on the kill switch? and then have to just manually turn off the button by yourself when it is approximate time to stop the kiln?
Great question! The kill switch has to be engaged or it will not turn on. The button will not stay pushed in unless that switch mechanism is up. I dont know if any other kilns are made where they can fire without a kill mechanism
Thanks for sharing! Do you know what causes pieces to get thrown off the wheel in the first place? This happens to me sometimes too and I’m not sure how to avoid it. It looked like your clay anchors were really solid and snug around your piece, so I’m a little confused!
Thank you! Great question! It is actually cause initially by centrifugal force which is a force created by things spinning around a stable center. In my particular situation in this video, it is because rim is smaller than the base and its a bit bottom (well, top because it upside down to trim) heavy and the force created by spinning threw it off. the rim being smaller also made it harder for the anchors to do their job by holding the piece down without sticking to it. There are a few easy things you can do to avoid this but its not my preference so I just continue using clay anchors. One way is to use water around the rim of your piece to attach it temporarily to the bat/wheel, however your piece can get messed up from this so I dont like doing that. Another solid way is to throw something called a chuck. you basically throw a solid cone(ish) shape (wide at the base and a thinner hump on top) and let it dry a bit (about leather hard, meaning mostly dry but still a bit of moisture left in the clay but not enough to get you messy when touched) and then you center your piece sitting on top of the chuck and trim on that. (watch some florian Gadsby too, he does a fantastic job! ru-vid.comHt9IRBd2xBE ). I hope that helps! If you still want to stick with attaching via anchors, just dip your fingers in water and barely attach the anchors at the very top edge. You can also just get more plastic (wet) clay and that should help! Happy throwing (and trimming)!
I just ordered a ceramic dish online and it has one unglazed spot and it’s bumming me out bc I don’t want to send it back. Debating if I could try to touch it up and bake in my oven. Don’t come for me y’all I know nothing, 😂
boooooo, sad day!!! I am so sorry that your dish came that way! unfortunately theres not anything that can be done in a conventional oven. if you want it to be food safe, you would have to either find a food safe paint and never put it in the dishwasher or micorowave, or it would have to be reglazed and refired... I hate to say it but if I were you, I would either exchange or get a refund for it 😔
How did they turn out!? I hope my short form tutorial was helpful! If you need more instruction, I made a long video! In case youre interested, heres the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RST4QzSo-OE.html
I am so glad I could be of service! I hope your tiles turned out well! I actually did another tile video about how to throw tiles to glaze so you can see them standing up and so it will catch and drippage! In case you're interested, heres the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PxSbf7wWavY.html
I am actually a professional potter and have my own kiln and glazes. I used a clay that i knew would work with my glazes and in my kiln vs the clay that came with the kit. Normally with those kits its airdry clay that you would just paint with some acrylic paints
I have the same kiln setup and had no idea how to use it! In all of the other videos I’ve seen, the kilns are much fancier. Would you mind sharing where you purchase those cones? Thank you!
So sorry I am just now seeing your comment! I actually got them from a local ceramics supply company where I get my clay and glazes from. You can actually find better ones on Amazon that are bars instead of triangular, that will give a very consistent fire since the surface on which the shut off bar is resting is flat and not tapered and would be harder for it to break. Ill link the ones on amazon but theyre hard to come by. a.co/d/hdwmcct theres also these to test the temp that your kiln is firing at and test the consistency of different spots in your kiln (sometimes there can be cold spots where your elements may be going out.) I have explained how to use the following product in several other comments but you basically put them in a blob of clay (because it will stick to and ruin your kiln shelf) or set them on broken pottery or kiln furnature a.co/d/6kgYrZt and then here are my normal firing cones (but im making the switch to bars when I run out of my regular ones) a.co/d/iSgKvrt I hope this all helps and I am so sorry for taking so long to get back to you! I hope you see this! Happy Firing! Emily
Thank you, I also have an old skut like you, much much smaller!😂😂. It can stand on my kitchen table, but this video helped me too not be so scared to fire the thing, not on the kitchen table !😂😂
You’ve got this!!! So glad i could help! And if you need any more help out have other questions just comment and I’ll do my best! Theres also a lot of info in other comments I’ve left on this video too! Best of luck!🥰
@thepottereden Actually, since you mentioned, I do have a concern! My top "light" switch is stuck in the on position. I can't get it to budge to off. Any ideas on why this may be happening or how I can fix it? I am thinking I have to take the whole control panel apart and see what is going on in there.
@@Remi-xz7en oh no! Well, i had to do the same. If yours is the same as mine, you’ll want to be very careful of the old screws because mine were on the brink of breaking, also the wires in mine are very short so it was a 2 person job. One person held it open and the other worked. Mine had about 10 dirt dobber (wasp) nests in it. My kiln was sitting in an old barn for about 20 years before i got it. We dumped out a literal rats nest before putting it in the car. Cleaned out tons of dirt dobber nests from the inside and the front panel. If yours was anything like mine, it may stink for the first several firings. You may also have to replace some coils too. Do a test strip of different cones (check out other comments for how to) in your first several firings to make sure it’s firing properly and consistently. Theres also such a thing as hot spots and cold spots in older kilns and your glazes will turn out slightly different because of it. Just so you know. There’s not a ton of info out there about that though.
@thepottereden My kiln was well cared for, luckily! I got an electrician to replace all of my elements and the sticky light switches! I am running my first bisque today! How long do you leave the lower switch on for a bisque in your kiln? I was going to check the moisture from the peep hole in 2 hours, then close peep holes and the lid once I see no moisture on glasses, allow to heat another hour with everything closed before flipping the second switch. I am also relieved you mentioned the smell because, yes... mine is currently quite stinky.
@@Remi-xz7en I am so sorry it has taken me this long to respond to you@ Life has been crazy and I havent been very active here on youtube! How was your first (on many I hope) firing?! I am so glad your kiln was well cared for and that you found someone who could replace your elements and switches for you! That is so cool! Do you mind sharing how much it cost? Depending on how dry your greenware is, I leave my kiln on and open for 1-3 hours. I have also had to start leaving my peep hole closed because I was having a problem with the plug falling out so I shoved it in and now it wont come out😅 A normal firing that is not rushed and everything is nice and dry, I will leave the top open for 1 hour, put the lid on with the smaller lid off for 1 hour, then close it up (so long as theres no moisture present) and leave just that switch on for an additional hour before switching the next on. If I am at all worried about moisture, I will leave it for 2 hours all closed up. haha mine smelt like intense rats nest! what does yours smell like?
The potter fires at a peak temperature of about 1888-1911 F (depending on any holds) for a cone 05 firing like i did in this video and takes anywhere from 8-12 hours to get to peak temp to shut off (depending on how slowly i raise the temperature). It will then take about 12 hours for it to cook enough to start opening it (depending on your kiln size. The larger the kiln and/or the more that’s in it, the longer it will take). I hope that helps!
You can also look at this chart and do some math to figure out exactly the temp and time with what cone you are using www.clay-king.com/kilns/pyrometric_cone_temperature_chart.html
Ironically enough, I’m going to try re-glazing a white tailed deer that turned out all blobby! This video seems helpful; hopefully all will go well! 🤞🏻
I have the exact same problem with one ceramic piece. The part on top broke off. Can I really "glue" it on again with glaze?( 6:09 ) Doesn't the olser glaze layer get bad or does it melt again when fired?
Yes, the old glaze should just melt and be fine as long as you arent refiring a whole bunch (which may cause some bubbling). Also try to watch out for layering up too much glaze where theres overlap (new on top of old) because that can cause bubbling too
@@abbasduman6963 if you put a glazed piece through multiple firings at the same temp as the glaze melts, your glaze will run off more and more, discolor, and you may get some bubbling or pinholes as well. So lets say i was trying to fix the cactus ring holder in the video but it broke multiple times or the glaze didnt work out and i kept fixing it and refiring it 4+ times, youll see a negative effect in some shape or form the more firings you run the piece through
Hi, i Just bought a slithly less ancient kiln. Instead of the switches i have a turn 'button' with 1-4 on it. But it works the same i think. But my question is... With the first bake, the temperature needs to stay a bit around 400. How do i do that?? 😅😅
Great question! Its hard to gauge temperature when they dont have a digital temp panel like the new ones do. I am not sure that a cone exists that melts at 400F or c for that matter. You can purchase a thermocouple to use for specific low temps like that! Itll probably be your best bet
I know this was posted like 2 years ago but do you ever fire this to cone 6? Could you post a glaze cone 6/7 schedule? I have a manual and it’s…..frustrating me.
Aww thank you for checking in! I know it has been FOREVER! I am doing alright, just life things and getting very busy has me all tied up at the moment. I was hoping to finish out a video in the next month but editing has proven difficult and the project didnt work out well.😮💨
Thank you so much! I sketched it in pencil and cut it out using an exacto! I have also had people use a cricut to cut out their designs when i teach this class in person! It works well but is a bit more delicate 👍
Hey, we have this exact kiln! This video was super informative and I wanted to thank you for making it! I have one question, what is the max cone that this kiln can fire at?
So glad i was helpful! It took a lit of research and trial and error! I unfortunately have not tested max cone but i wouldnt bother going past a 10 tbh. Its so old that it probably wouldnt handle any hotter. When i got it the owner gave me their old cones and their highest was either a cone 10 or 11 so i figured thats probably as hot as i would ever take it. I hope that helps!
Thank you for showing how to restore dried wax,,,, that was remotely helpful and could have been explained without all the drama,,,but the only reason I continued to watch your video was to see the finished mug at the end,,, not your test tiles or other comments,,, just how the restored wax relief worked on a finished piece! Geese Louise woman, you gave us 5 seconds of what your video was supposed to be about!!! I’m not gonna try to steal your “top secret” technique,,,,,because frankly, swiping on a couple glazes over a wax resist is not rocket science,,,,but would be respectful to you audience to at least SHOW the final results. I won’t be watching any more of your videos😳🥴🤨
That was a bit harsh but thank you for the “constructive “ criticism. I, as a creator am free to release whatever information about my pottery that i wish. I sell these mugs and didnt wish to divulge or show the end result so the idea remains my own. I also went under contract regarding some designs and again, couldnt show or say more than i did. Please see people on the internet as people and not robots and have some passion and consideration when making comments. Thank you.
I just acquired an ancient Sno Industries Kiln with the same silver cone switch box thing you have (thanks for explaining) but mine only has 2 light switches l😂 how do you know how to bisque and how to glaze fire? There is like NO info on this Sno Industries Kiln anywhere.
Great question! It is so tricky figuring out how to fire a kiln in the first place. So intimidating! But really its the cones you want to figure out! A bisque will fire at cone 04-06 depending on what your clay says. So you would buy the appropriate cone for the temp you need and the kiln will heat itself up until that cone melts and trips the off switch from inside. If its your first time firing, i wouldnt put anything inside and just do a test fire with a few tester cones. They are cones with little stands on them so they stand almost straight up. Youll want one for a cone above and below the target temp. So if i want to bisque to 05 i would get 3 testers, 1 at 04, 1 at 05, and 1 at 06. Set them on an unfired piece of clay or broken shelf so they dont stick to the inside of your kiln. Fire them to the target temp (05) and after the firing, your 06 (the cooler temp) should be shlumped over, the 05 (target) should be a gentle curve, and the 04 (hottest temp) should barely be melted at all. Ill link a vid about that. But that will tell you if it is shutting off by itself at the correct time! A glaze firing will be the same way. Look at the bottle of glaze to see what temp/cone it needs. A high fire could be anywhere from a cone 4 to 10 depending on what it is. Do the same procedure as before but with the appropriate cones to make sure it is getting hot enough. Some kilns only go up to a certain temp. Also keep in mind that the hotter you fire at, the faster the elements and kiln brick will wear and need to be replaced. Mine is just fine but i only ever bring it up to cone 6 at the hottest. If you have more questions, don’t hesitate to ask! Try these vids to see if they help explain what i mean a little better ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zvUc-Gw01No.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wO9fk--xgwc.html
does anyone else have issues with the bats wobbling? i have tried four different bats all form different suppliers and all of them are incredibly wobbly. what should I do to solve this problem? sounds like its not possible to throw on the mystery wheel head
I have had to just get pliers (2 pair) and hold the bat pins on top and bottom and crack as hard as i can to get them to stay. Also, when they get loose, take them off and clean all the clay off and clean the clay off the wheel really good and then tighten with the pliers. That should really help!
Hi, i'm loving your pottery and your video, I just bought an even more basic kiln, very old and lots of rust, but I figured that gives me more money to play with materials and learn. My kiln doesn't have a kiln sitter. I'm not sure where to start with that. Any advice?
Hi! Thanks for commenting and reaching out! Let me dig just a little and see what i can find but im thinking youll have to buy a set of pyrometric cones to set up and watch them melt and then stop your firing once it gets to the desired temp. Basically if you want a bisque to fire at a cone 05, youll get 5 different cones, cone 03-07 and make a little clay holder for them and set them securely in the clay at an angle. As your firing process, you’ll see them melting more and more. Watch through your peep hole and there should be a nice soft bend on the 05 cone (set up in the middle) and the lower temp cones (07-06) should be more and more melted, while the 04 and 03 are much less melted or not melted at all. Look up a manual (if you can find one) for your exact kiln and see what it says. Ill try to fond a vid about how to make what i am talking about. They should also sell some reusable “cone sitters” (the clay one i was talking about). Ill try to find that too. Best of luck!
This is a great vid to help you understand what i am talking about. I didn’t realize there were self standing/supporting cones which is great! He also talks about only putting in 2 cones one at and under the temp he is talking about. I would suggest at least having 3. His cones are merely for him to know whats happening in the kiln and making sure there isnt an issue with his digital controles, thermocouple, or coils. Yours will be for measuring temp and knowing when to shut it off. So in your case i would at least have 3. One below, one at, and one above the temp youre aiming for. That being said, when you do the firing, make sure youre raising the temp slowly and have a GOOD pair of welding gloves to take your peep hole plug in and out when you check the cones. Again, best of luck! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wO9fk--xgwc.html
