Second Son Woodworks is a collection of DIY woodworking and maker project videos. My name is Caleb and I am the second son of five kids and an avid fan of building/fixing things. I am not a professional; I do my best to learn from my mistakes, many of which you will see in my videos. I love new challenges and finding efficient/affordable ways of getting things done in the shop and around the house.
My hope for my videos and channel is that they will inspire you to be creative, handy, and not intimidated by taking on new projects. My projects are far from perfect but I always learn something, I enjoy the process, and I get things done.
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as the epoxy soak into the cracks and crannies of the table, it also pushes air out of it, that why the bubbles kept on popping up. The solution to this is to apply a thinner coat of epoxy as a seal coat, then go over it with a regular coat. The primer coat will have small bubbles, you open them by sanding, then go apply a second coat. and that second coat shouldn't have the problem you see in this video.
@@SecondSonWoodworks You put a screw in at both ends which wont allow the edge banding to contour to the shape. You need to leave the open end free and screw it in last.
I really appreciate you making this video. It creates discussion which is beneficial on so many levels. I get it- you (like me) work on a budget and the house is leased. I can't help but to think however, a slight sag in a ridge beam (or a wooden rafter system) is pretty serious and to be expected over time. I think your work makes sense however I really wanted you to give extra attention to that ridge beam, especially with the mention of termite damage to some degree. Assuming the load bearing aspect of your walls is super-sound and your ridge beam is 100% solid, I am thinking more of your safety over aesthetics and/or convenience. On a tight budget, I would drop a double center post (without a concrete footer, due to cost/lease arrangement), run a beam made up of 2x6s or 2x8s bolted together out to the strongest load-bearing point of the corresponding side walls, then run support up to the ridge beam from that configuration. Going back to that double center post, without a footer, you would need to build structure around the base to spread the load across a relatively small portion of the surrounding floor...architecturally inconvenient but for your safety, important. I estimate this would cost you less than $300 in materials and act in concert with those 2x4 cross members you installed as a stronger config. I get it, who wants a double center post in the middle of a workshop however a sagging ridge beam is kinda serious and with all due respect, without really giving the structure a more complete overhaul, these are really only band-aid fixes in an attempt to prevent structural failure. Again, this is great discussion and you posting this video is an asset to the community so thank you SecondSonWoodworks!
Love it. I’m thinking about creating a table for my office and came across your video. How many people can realistically sit at the table? Also, do you have plans as far as the piping?
I would have used 2x6’s on all those joists. A 2x4 just doesn’t have that much strength’ specially on a long run where you will be adding weight and downward pressure. Overtime, they will bow. All wood will.
T-Nut didn't think of that. Was thinking of a coarse thread to mount into the wood with an internal fine thread that the foot would go into. Have to make them on the lathe, but figured someone has fixed this problem. Nobody seems to be selling them strange... Tile counter top is not perfect and I use a folded paper towel to shim the foot. Keep wanting to do a fix.
Man that is awesome!! I want a new patio table and this would be so great! so when you poured the epoxy in the recessed areas, did you let it completely dry before you can back and did the rest? Also, is epoxy affected by the weather because I could only do this on the porch. I definitely would do a small piece first to get the feel for it before I would do a door. Anyway this is amazing and you have a new subscriber!
Thank you for watching and the kind comment! Yes, fully dry, but maybe not fully cured. Make sure to check the instructions for the epoxy you use. BUT epoxy is definitely impacted by weather; I have found this out the hard way. I wouldn't recommend it for anything outdoor. Use Seal Once Marine Sealant OR Spar Urethane with lots of coats and sanding in between. Best of luck and thanks for subscribing!
Love the work! You got a really nice crotch slab there. I would highly recommend a scrub plane for the roughing out a surface before the jack or smoothing plane. Watched parts 1-4. Been there done that with the epoxy issues!
After sanding it down it was perfect. You want a long burn so it is deep and will last for as long as the piece lasts. That’s why it’s good to spray water on it beforehand.
Well look, man, the presentation was great but the work itself was not great. A little more effort on measurements could have yielded an awning that was true because it rested on support arms that were the same angle as one another. Instead one of your support arms is coming off of your house 2 in lower than the other even though you're siding makes a fine indicator for matching the height perfectly without even needing a tape measure
Thank you! You know after doing this table and letting it sit outside for 4 years, I will never do epoxy for an outdoor table again, the sun, moisture, and temp changes ultimately destroy it. I’m gonna do another video on it at some point, but I’d recommend using a spar urethane instead for outdoor stuff, it will last longer. Best of luck mate!
