This may work for light rust, but based upon my sample of one, the product does not work even when covered with plastic and left for 24 hours, I would say look elsewhere for a rust removal product.
looks like someone put track pads on from an mc that never had grousers, motor looks like its from a 40 or 40c the dipstick is on the wrong side, the transmission also appears to be from a 40c as thats not the right shifter for a 420
Mine had no pressure so took it apart and found the vanes were stuck! Took them out and cleaned with break cleaner and dried and now working perfectly!
I have one of these - it smokes and makes terrible fumes - I think it needs MORE combustion air - I took off all of the top cover screws and then only installed one in each corner - BUT I added a stack of washers to create an approximate gap of 1/4” between the top and bottom covers, and used longer screws to accommodate the spacers - I also added graphite powder to the pump parts… but I think it’s the air intake that helps - try running it without the top cover for a minute - it roars like the devil with all that air… try at your own risk… worked for me - no fumes, no smoke… and the nose cone gets orange at the bare minimum fuel pressure adjustment
I was also not getting fuel but my pump was pumping air and looked good my lines were both weather checked and cracked all over. Going to try new lines. What are the two big adjustment screws on the back and what is the appropriate setting for them? Thanks
The adjustment screws are for your air flow and pressure. Also make sure your pickup in the tank, filter and ventury are clean. I don't remember on top of my head the required pressure, but try blowing with shop air to see if you have fuel out the nozzle. Hope this helps. J.F.
Thanks a lot sir, i got a. Ford 2000, I tried to pull something heavy and itnget stuck today, exactly like your, will try another as you did. Really appreciate it.
@@santerresongarage7486 Thanks, but I doubt any Dealer Service is going to part with any secret sauce. Can you recommend any alternatives? (I can always take it to my friends shop and drop it in the carb cleaner bucket, but I like your individual parts approach better). It appears to have been discontinued circa 2013. I see AC Delco #1052626 as a predecessor , what do you think? Or would you sell me a can from your inventory?
@@tommars-c6y sorry I have no can to sell. I did a quick search on Amazon, there's some for sale, but they want something like 60$. You can be surprised all the products (ACDelco) available at the parts counter of GM dealership. An other option would be CRC or Kleenflow, or other brands. I know the Delco one works amazing to remove old varnished gas.
I didn’t see where the gasket was seated into the body before the bowl was reattached and tightened, did I miss it? There is a gasket between the bowl and the body of the DLTX carbs, right?
Nice fix up and nice tractor. Any of the tractor shows I been at in the maritimes, I’ve never seen a John Deere H. I know of 4 John Deere M’s here in PEI.
Got to love guys like you for posting videos like this, the only thing in the manual that it doesn't have a troubleshoot guide for, now I know I need to take this pump apart, thanks
I have a 1943 H John deere hand start in good shape, but it's mean to start.I have other tractors to use&this is sort of a toy.Its so mean to start that I will ignore it for long periods of time. If I needed it for a usable tractor I would have a hard life for sure.
Yes I do. I currently have 2 model, plane like those in the video or light weight, both with studs or drilled and tapped holes. Send me a message on messenger; Jean-Francois Santerre or jfsanterre3@gmail.com
Which way does the choke flap go? Does the flap go towards the body of the carb and get sucked in when choke is closed or does it go the opposite way and open towards the air cleaner? Can't tell in your video and the one I took apart was soldered together. The instructions with the kit are vague and can't find anything on the web. All the carbs I've worked on the flap usually opens toward the engine so it still lets air in if the choke is left on. Thanks.
Maxville is about 50km from the Quebec border just off highway 417. This was part of the Maxville faire, somewhat on the smaller scale this year after being shut down for 2years. Hopefully next year will be full size again. Thanks for watching, more to come
Ok so I've got a dltx 46 carb on my h and I took it apart but couldn't get the or didn't try and get the middle needle out the brass one that goes up to the middle of carb... So I just need to find a screw like what you said and put it in there and pry it out? Um also I think my throttle butterfly is good but I got some play back n forth on my choke how big of a deal is that ? I'd assume replace ?
That's right, to get the emulsion tube out,, you just insert the bolt and gently pry it out. If too stuck, some lubricant of your choice and some bit of heat from a propane torch will help. Make sure all the small holes and passages are clean and free from debris. Blow air and cleaner through. For the throttle and choke shaft, new bushings and felt seal help. The choke is not as critical though. You can get away with some wiggle. Hope this helps. If not ask questions, I'm there to help. J.F.
@@santerresongarage7486 ok cool and is there a certain way of putting that tube in or just tap it in?... I hope after this the h will start without dumping some gas in each cylinder..... Lol and no problem I'm glad I ran across this vid
If you are duping a load of gas in the cylinders, you most likely have a leaking needle and seat, animproperly adjusted or sinking float or a bent or broken mixing screw. Is all your small brass plugs are installed correctly?
@@shaneh1050 this video may help you. If you are dumping lots of gas into the engine, you might have a leaky float. I found many new ones that are not good. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3YXlKH8tvE8.html
I do run both. It is definitely a big improvement over stock. A good spring help also. We run aluminum on about 4 of ours and they hold up good. It is cheap and easy to make. I have many more videos to upload regarding garden tractor pulling, just way too busy lately. Stay tuned for more. J.F.
I did several of them and never really had problems with distortion. I do weld them alternating to prevent as much distortion as possible. I like a good full weld on both sides. The way my gussets are made, they clear the welds. Anything below 0.040" of runout doesn't matter much, those old rims aren't perfect. Thanks for watching. J.F.
A full video is coming. Just for a heads-up, 104 octane and I have to retard the timing, I'll bub it up to 109, & 112 to see what can come out of it. Lot's of compression. More to come...
Thanks for the kind words. I will try to have 1 or 2 videos a week regarding tracor pulling and related stuff. Kinda new at it, so please bear with me, work in progress. J.F.
