Can I do it with the old valves that have new hardened seat, or should I buy new valves on a budget. Double hump 2.02/1.60 valves . Can’t afford a Machine shop retired guy on allowence
Nice, brings back memories growing up with the 1947 GMC version of this truck: I remember painting the box red with mom once as a birthday surprise for my dad 🙂 Also remember watching with fascination the gravel road rush past through a hole in the floor, the engine starting with the foot switch on the floor, the high/low differential switch, the echoing sound of the engine and transmission whine through the cab with most of the interior upholstery removed (maybe due to mice getting in it), and cheering mom on as she tried to get up the big hill with a full tank of water from the community well in the box - and having to roll backwards down the hill to give it a second try 😂 Riding in that truck always felt like an adventure.
If everything goes OK I should be getting one of thees delivered to me soon. Bought it today, it's seem to be in nice condition almost as nice as your. Should have just 25K miles on in, barn keep. Wish me the good "luck" & godspeed with it. First thing I need to do is get a barn built to put it in, I don't want in the weather. Thanks ever so much for the video when I get mine I'll send you a video.
Praise THE LORD! I'm humbled enough to admit, I'm 57 years old and I learned a new technique 😅, great job! Appreciate you and your video! Life's amazing, young or old we can all learn from each other. You learn something new everyday.
Hi Richard, I just watched this older video post and that one piece you said may not go to the car, but I think it does look like a door glass window roller, but missing the rubber roller. Check on the top of the door on the inside under where the garnish moulding goes to see if there should be 2 place where the holes in the flat plate should lineup for mount it with screws. Two were used, one towards the wing window and one before the door lock knob. Hope all is going good. Stay safe. Tony
Richard to bad the plan fell apart - remember to go the way the crow (escrow) flies. Is the Rambler American moving too? Lots of places to buy up north !
I will remember that. Oh yeah the American is coming with. I can't wait to get going on that one. If I could move that far north I would. That's the dream!
I bought a property a couple years ago that came with a 61 Apache. My neighbor who is related to the family that owned the property before told me the truck has been on that propery since new. Intersting story and gives some motivation to work on it. It is very rough and has the stright 6 like your Chevy. Mine is not a stepside and paint is the light blue top and white on bottom. The owner RIP was the Chief of the Native tribe there.
I am having problems on a 2010 atv. So do you think this is what is making the carb leak from the drain when the choke is on, then shut off when trying to turn the choke off?
Do you mean gas is coming out of the overfill tube? If so, the float inside the carb is probably stuck. Tapping on the outside of the float bowl with a screwdriver might knock it loose.
Washer goes on the side that moves - with the wrench/ratchet. Holding the nut - put it on the bolt side - holding the bolt - put it on the nut side. If you have a lock washer it goes on the side that doesn't move for ease of assembly. If you have 2 washers throw one out - it will come loose.
Hi Richard. I wonder if your PO Box would accept a driveshaft in a tube if I were to send you one of my extras out to you? I also have a List6210 Holley Spread Bore 650 CFM that should be gone through for your 350, if you are interested. As always, love watching your videos. Stay safe!!
Wow I definitely would need to buy those parts from you. I'd have to ask the post office. I might snag a carb that's ready to go just to save time. The guys I got the trans from are huge tri five guys so I'm going to ask them if they have a driveshaft laying around to sell. They're about an hour drive from me. I'll try them first. The shipping costs on a driveshaft would be insane especially through USPS. I appreciate you as always.
Yeah fuel line cud be the problem but I know for fact if you put good insulated spacer under carb it stops that keeps heat away from carb preventing vabor lock
I love your videos. You are the best!! Some info on your radio from an electronics engineer. Early GM solid state (transistor) radios use a class A output stage. They are more easily damaged by no load (no speakers) than they are a dead short. 4-ohm speakers are no problem for this radio. The fact that the radio lights up just indicates that the dial light bulb id OK. If you get a radio station with a speaker attached, you are good. You probably already found out by now. Anyway, as I said earlier your videos are without a doubt the best car videos I have seen, at least in my opinion. Thank you for a great job!
I have an old snap on kra21 2 drawer box that is my main tool box I use minimal tools but good tools. When you have good stuff you don’t absolutely need a lot of extra cheap stuff or that’s just me
Had a 49 Chevrolet 6400, dump bed, straight 6, 2 speed rear end. Not a hint of rust. What a beautiful vehicle. Purchased it in Kansas as it was listed on ebay.. DId a lot of work on it all new brakes,pressure plate, clutch etc. Did not have too much room for it so I made the huge mistake of selling it, and have regretted it ever since. Need to keep my eye opened for another 6400 of the late 40's.
I have a nice 1948 Loadmaster coming to me soon, just paid for it. Seems to be in real good shape & like you I really don't have enough storage for it. ......... I think it would be a great truck for me but if you need it more maybe we could work a deal.
I bet the long red one is also a surveyors box. Probably fits the tripod. One leg into a locating slot on one end, the head in a centered locating slot on the other end.
Man, thanks for the video, enjoyed the commentary, can we be neighbors? same garage style, same stuff falling off the bench, very normal things...lolol
@@freemansgarageextra essentially the issue I am facing is when I start the truck up as long as I’m holding onto the key in the start position it fires up….the second I let go and it goes into the run position it turns off. Not sure what the issue is. Maybe you’d know?
@@kd20902 Does your truck have the factory push button like mine as seen on the regular Freeman's Garage channel in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MbCvgCc_7EQ.htmlsi=L7ilep0MRhpGAuED & this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FAznf1EN19w.htmlsi=kljtf2uLiH149mnc
Almost impossible to say without seeing it in person or knowing if it has been converted to 12v etc. After working on mine, the ignition system on these trucks seems to be about the same as any other 6v points ignition system. I would make sure every wire on the key switch, coil, distributor/points, starter, starter solenoid & battery are clean, unbroken, tight & in the correct positions. A couple wires might be swapped around causing your issue. I'd also use a test light to see when & where you have or don't have power when turning & releasing the key. If you bypassed the key switch by running a hot wire directly to coil from battery, used a couple wires or remote start switch to put power to the starter solenoid & the engine starts & stays running, that would be significant. That would make me believe your coil, distributor/points, starter & starter solenoid are not the culprit. It would then assume the key switch is worn out or its wires are loose or wired wrong. I really hope that helps. I will answer any questions you have if I don't somehow miss them.
@@freemansgarageextra I think I got the car for $40. Lived in the SF Bay Area. One night me and 2-3 pals were coming back from a concert in SF, and they were giving me a pile of crap about my car as we were coming over the crest on the SF Bay bridge. I of course had to defend my Ramblo. I got about 2 sentences out and BLAM, the driveshaft U-joint let go. Luckily it was the dff end, so no driveshaft coming up through the floorboards and I was able to coast a mile or more and pull off the road safely. Believe it or not, the diff end U-joint ended up offset, only one arm of the fork stayed engaged, and I was actually able to drive it home. Modest amount of vibration, LOL. Now that's RAMBLO RELIABILITY!!
@@freemansgarageextra As I recall, one arm of the rear yoke broke off, and the cross was gone. I had some steel wire in the car for some reason and I wired the front half of the U joint to the rear best I could on the side of the road. It worked! But from then on the two halves of the U joint would get offset and I could drive like 21 mph. At 22 mph, the driveshaft got offset and would bang against the driveshaft tunnel, the car sounded like a power hammer going down the street. It was pretty comical.
