It came with both a solid and a net top. They are no longer in business by the way. I found that I generate too much water vapor to use the solid top (plus I like to see out) the bug net holds in a fair amount of heat and I have found that to be enough so I keep the solid top stored away.
I know I'm a little late to the party, but this couldn't be easier to follow. I got my tarp ridgeline complete, and it looks top-notch. Thanks for taking the time to help us out.
I find it easier to thread your pulling wire if you do NOT pre expand the rope. By leaving the rope as is, it retains some stiffness and makes it rather easy to push the rope over the wire pulling tool.
I did the North loop a few weeks ago and camped at Painter's Creek. During that hike encountered some real bad thunderstorms in fact had to set up my hammock for the first time in a rain storm. It was a great learning experience.
Good video friend. I was wondering, for the one you already have made what material is the pink band around the pot made of? Is there not a risk of it melting with the heat? I see it’s purpose though. It holds the caldera half way up the pot so you can get a stove under while still being able to store the caldera in the pot when not in use. Nice Atb
Nice. Are the top vent holes blocked by the pot or does the cone shape allow for heat to escape? Mine came out blocked. I may need to make it slightly larger to leave space for the vents. How did yours work out?
There is some airflow, but it's restricted somewhat. I added a lot more vent holes that I originally tried. There needs to be the right amount of flow for your stove, too little and it burns slow, too much heat trapped and the aluminum will start to deform, too much flow then it is just a pot stand.
@@PaCampingDad I had too little airflow I think. The alcohol was boiling out the vent holes at the bottom. That version I made as a straight cylinder. I made one like you described but I still have some work to do. I used left over roof flashing. I used a Fancee Feast stove.
I like your video. However, as I was planning to replicate the setup, I realized that I could not, because at least one of the measurements is missing. It think either one of the following two measurements would give me the information I am looking for: 1. the radius of outer circle (which is the length of the coat hanger and plastic combined) 2. length of the outer arc (or equivalently the circumference or the diameter of the caldera cone when set up) Can you by chance still provide any of these measurements? That would make this demonstration video an instructional video. And me a small bit happier ;-)
It's been a long time since I worked with the caldera cones. I learned from 2questions at Hammock Forums. He had a nice video on the planning ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VerP7-aiEBw.html - Hopefully this answers your questions, but I'll try to take a look in the next few days and see if I can answer your specific questions
21:25 You realize, your drill press has a depth stop, right? No need to guess if they're all the same size, just set the stop to where the right step pierces the sheet, and pull the handle til it stops. 28:05 You can also touch up the back side of the holes with the uni-bit. Easy-peasy. Just touch the next larger size to the rough edges of the holes.
Thanks for sharing. I also made a video with the latest button knot. Please have a look ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gs1stVcNweY.html
Certainly one of the best Amsteel-loop videos out there. It's clean, precise and easy to follow. Man, that title isn't idiot proof though. Wish i saw this 4 years ago.
Hi PaCampingDad. Very nice hammock setup. I'm going to make a hammock also, but I can't find a design for the asymmetrical bugnet. How did you choose the dimensions for the bugnet?
As I recall, I sewed the zipper onto the hammock body, then get into the hammock, throw the netting over the ridgeline and pin it. It's a lot easier with 2 people.
Thank you very much for doing this. As far as I can tell, this is the only RU-vid video that shows splicing Zing-It, so I am very grateful to you. I suspected that splicing Zing-It would be much fiddlier than Amsteel, but your guitar string idea and patience shows that it’s possible. By the way, I don’t mind the lack of editing because showing your little mistakes, like almost forgetting to install the Dutch Hook, are good reminders for your viewers. Thanks again
@@PaCampingDad yes sir all tubing where fuel is turned from liquids to the vapors is generally called the vaporizer tube from Camping cooker to a field catering No.2 Burner I suspect that it will be the same on a flame thrower although I don't know for sure about that one.
I was an early arriver at MAHHA and came across a tent shoved in the dumpster (North Face or Big Agnes, I forget which). I wasn't about to touch the tent, but the aluminum poles I grabbed. Dutchware sells the poles, if you aren't as lucky as I was.
The hammock body is easy, the bug net can be a pain, but lots of pins and careful testing of the fit before sewing will get you there.....or you could just buy a Chameleon from Dutchware.
I'm not sure what you were trying to reference, but I know the time and effort Dutch put into designing and manufacturing his titanium goodies. I gladly pay a few dollars more to support a US designed, and manufactured product that I know has been tested conscientiously. I know there have been Chinese companies copying some of the different tarp and hammock bling, but I will never go that route to save a few dollars. I like dealing with a company that is customer centered instead of $ centered.
I can't decide where to best locate the hardware (Dutchware Fleaz)... on the tarp/tent tie-outs, on the guyline tied to the peg, on the peg itself? I have multiple tarps and want the ability to have set everything set up at the same time if I chose to. Using the same tensioning hardware would be easiest.
It's really a personal preference. I keep my tarps fully ready to go with everything except stakes (I use LineLocks for the tie outs). I will often change the stakes that I bring depending on the area that I am going to and the current conditions (soggy ground, frozen ground, very rocky....). Others don't like to have any thing attached to their tarp and keep their stakes rigged with tieouts. Another factor is the material of the tarp; if it is nylon then you will need something to take up the slack that will happen due to the stretch of nylon. This is not a big deal if you have poly/low stretch fabric. Experiment
@@PaCampingDad I left nylon behind when it comes to Tarps and Rain Gear so no need for tensioning. Dyneema will bring a new generation of water protection once the large companies commit to it.
Their website is www dot 2qzqhammockhanger dot com If you want to contact Donna or Tim, I think the best way would be to send them a private message from hammockforums dot net. Their forum name is 2Questions.
