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You have a good voice for a politician ... or possibly a salesman or preacher. It projects strength and confidence. It's a true blessing and I'm sure has aided you in life.
@@jamiemcwilliams7937 If I recall, they were Goodmark or Dynacorn quarter panels. My supplier buys from multiple manufacturers, so I'm not sure which ones were shipped to my shop.
I've been following this Nick, keep up the good work. Wanted to let you know that I still have the Mustang and it's plugging right along. I also have purchased a 1969 Camaro a few years back. I'll bring her over one of these days.
@@davidcrocker8356 if I recall, I got them from AMD. I didn't order the pre-welded wheelhouse assemblies because I was unsure of their fitment. I'm glad I ordered them individually.
@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 Hello again, I want to say how much I enjoyed your videos on the 67 GTO. Although I'm not deep into the restoration of my 67, I'm afraid my restoration is going to be very similar to the one you did on the white 67. For the past couple of years, I've been just digging around the car, taking pictures figuring out what parts I'm going to need, and then buying them. Everything is getting so expensive plus the shipping cost is getting crazy. I have already purchased just about all the sheet metal you did, for the repairs you did. I have one more major part and that would be the left full rear 1/4 panel. I had a little problem following the title numbers on your videos. I think I found most of them but it seems you stopped doing the videos for the restoration. I saw the introduction video and then the videos where everything went to hell. I am sorry to say I'm in the same boat. The only exterior panels I'm not going to be cutting off are the roof and the lower firewall. I also have bought door skins in case I can't salvage the bottom of the doors. Did you make any videos installing the trunk floor, the cabin floor, and the areas at the bottom of the "A" pillars where the floor, kick panels, rocker panels and lower cowl panels come together and are all tied together. I couldn't find any other videos on completing the car. I thought maybe the cost of doing the work on the car any further had an effect financially on the owners of the car and the project may have been put on the back burner Again I enjoyed your videos and helping me understand what I; 've gotten myself into. The big question for me right now is, "Where to start". I started at the front. I've got the radiator core support done, the hood is repaired, and the fenders are off but need patch panels. A lot of work has to be done around the upper cowl to windshield transition and the side cowls that lead down to the problem area at the bottom of the "A" pillars. I think this is where I'm going to continue, I'll get the front half of the car solid including the complete floor and rockers, I'm not sure about the rockers, I haven't gotten in there yet. Then I'll move on to the rear of the car which you have shown in detail with your videos. It looks like I'll be doing the same thing, rear quarters, inside and outside wheel-houses, trunk floor and drops, rear deck extension, rear package tray, and extension, and rear tail panel. Again, thank you for posting your videos. As I watch your videos, I take notes of what to do and what not to do. Between you and "DEBOSS GARAGE, who also did a 67 restoration, hopefully, I'll get mine done. If I had known what I know now, I probably wouldn't have started it or even bought the car. Take care, and let me know what the status is on the 67 and if you have any more videos on the 67 GTO restoration, especially the bottoms of the "A" pillars.
@@davidcrocker8356 I've made a lot more videos of this restoration and will hopefully be posting more soon. Its been very busy in the shop this spring, so I haven't been able to get the latest videos up as quickly as I'd like. Stay tuned for a lot more. As for your car, you need to start with a good foundation, but if your floors and rockers are as bad as this car was, you'll need to tackle it the way I did this car because you'll have nothing good to weld your new floor to.
Honestly, I've had good and bad from AMD. This trunk floor was for a 66-67, and I believe there is a difference in the rear section between years. Their tooling may be a match for a '66, and not exact for '67. Either way, I was glad the original pan had a good rear section
Yes, and the aftermarket will not make one for the '67 since its a 1 year only part. The suppliers need to put clarification on the need to modify for a 67 in their part description. It would make estimating costs for the repair much easier.
Not all original Mustangs are as bad as this one was. I just picked up a '69 390 Grande Coupe for a customer, and the car will need very little rust repair. All cars will rust badly if they're driven in the rustbelt. Road salt and liquid de-icer are brutal on metal, no matter what car it is.
Looks like you got your hands filled I'm sure you'll do a real nice job though I love 1967 Pontiac that was the year I was born what motor and transmission came with it I have a real nice 71 YC 455 with a 400 Turbo are you fixing the car up for yourself or are you going to sell it good luck with your project later bye
@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 Cool that was a good motor yeah I got this 455 a couple years ago it’s dismantled right now so I could move it around easier it’s in my shed right now I was hoping to build it to put it in my Firebird but I don’t know if I’ll get a chance to so I thought I’d start may be looking for a home for it with somebody with a Pontiac project good luck with your build later bye
Ive heard of the tail problem, I've never seen it till now. That might be for a Chevelle. I know personally someone that had that exact issue and it was a chevelle trunk pan. Maybe the chevy guys would know.Just saying.
The trunk floor was specifically for a GTO, LeMans, or Tempest. Every GM "A" body had the same trunk floor, where they differed was the section I had to remove. The shape was correct, it was the side profile that was not. I made sure that I purchased the floor from a Pontiac only distributor. The part # was for this car.
Its a mean contrast that you guys in the Midwest call rust. Up here in the Northeast, rust is at a total different level. That GTO is really in great condition. Great Video! Keep up the content.
I'm from NJ and moved here in 2001. The rust out here is just as bad if not worse. NJ has road salt and salt air that causes most of the rust issues. Out here they use a liquid brine and salt on the roads. The brine is like battery acid. I've seen truck frames break in half in less than 10 years out here.
Just discovered your channel. I appreciate your standard of quality and telling the viewers straight. Looking forward to learning about welding from you. Thanks.
I've done enough 1st generation Mustangs to know what needs to be. There are some situations where there's nothing left to go by, that's when I refer back to the pictures I took of previous cars. If I'm lucky, I'll find a picture of what I need to duplicate. If not, then I use my background as a Toolmaker to engineer what needs to be done.
Dimensionally, the rocker was too big overall. I was able to fit it by moving it forward and down slightly. Not correct by factory measurements, but it did work. The seat belt anchor nut was the bigger issue. If people don't pay attention to its location, they will have issues bolting the belt in correctly. Thank you for your question
I own an original 1979 Berlinetta & would be very interested to know what brand of oil pressure gauge was used & was it installed in the original cluster clock location?
If I recall, the gauge was an Autometer electric unit. You can go onto Summit Racing's website to see what they offer. I believe the gauge is 1.5" diameter. It fit in very nicely, but you will have to modify the plastic cluster housing.
Your quite the craftsman and your patience is far beyond that of mortal man! I bought a mustang off eBay. Going to need some patching. Could you recommend a manufacturer that gets the best consistent fit?
If I recall, National Parts Depot rates the panels that they sell from good to bad fit. Unfortunately, there are only a few actual manufacturers. A call to the guys at NPD or CJ Pony's should give you the best info on fit. None will fit like original though
I have a '66 coupe that is currently undergoing a full resto-mod. As my shop is an hour away I'm not up there as often as I'd like to track progress. Your series has been a wonderful tutorial on how the hours can accumulate on a car that at first glance would seem to only need some cosmetic work. I'm hoping to have mine back by mid-year so I can enjoy some of the summer months. Thanks again for posting a great series and congratulations on a job well done.
I'm working on a 68 mustang and the rocker was 5/16" different from one end to the other! If I would have just welded it in as is, the door would have never sealed. Great videos. Thanks for the information.
Is that an Air Grabber Road Runner in the shop there? I came very close to owning one of those with a 440 six pack years ago. Would make some decent video content. Paint looks really good from this end by the way.
@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 It was back in the 70's that I was going to buy the one that belonged to my neighbor. It was in excellent shape with zero rust. Can you imagine it was only 3k back then lol. I helped him repaint it from hemi orange to white. It ended up being sold to someone in Vancouver British Columbia. I wonder what ever happened to it?
Sorry, but that car should never have been repaired, and the owner should have been STRONGLY encouraged to not go forward with the repairs. The car is basically a daily driver with a concourse investment! The owner will NEVER recoup his/ her money -NEVER. Especially, considering you didn't even fix ALL of the rust in the car, strip it to metal etc. OUCH!
Thank you for your comment. I had advised the owner after my initial inspection to just have me do a blend repaint on the LH side. He persisted that he wanted all of the issues fixed. After a very thorough 2nd inspection I advised him not to move forward because I could see that the project was going to snowball out of control. He again demanded that I move forward against my advice. After removing the LH 1/4 panel, I had him come in and advised him for a 3rd time to not move forward beyond replacing the outer wheelhouse and 1/4 since I now had to replace them. Again he said that he wanted the whole car done. He was made fully aware of the facts. He alone decided to continue. It was his car and his choice. I was the one who finally put a cap on what was going to be done because I didn't want him to end up with $75k into a Mustang coupe. I decided not to do any further repairs and just repaint what I hadn't torn down against his wishes. I capped the budget, not him.
@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 From my current experience I can tell you that the heart is more powerful than the head. My '66 was my Dad's car and when he passed away there was no question that I'd have it restored and modified. As is the case with many projects, my investment is rapidly approaching 2x my original estimate. I know I'll never get back what I'm putting in to it - and that's not the objective. At this point it's no longer about the money (I just don't tell the wife any more) but about the joy when I get it back and hopefully the fact that I'm creating a family heirloom ... provided I can teach my grandchildren how to drive a stick!
@@stephenlynch8947 You're absolutely right. When you rebuild these cars out of love, price doesn't matter. These guys who are rebuilding cars to make a buck, are the type who created the kind of repairs that I uncovered on this Mustang. Do what you want with you're money and enjoy. We only live once!
