Yeah Mark Novak is a big help just in his library of content on some of the gunsmithing aspects we need to do to get some of these guns on the channel. -N
I shortened a Mosin carbine down to a 13" barrel with a weld on 3" break - hardly any recoil. Also shortened a Turk Mauser kinda the same way. Both were cheap beaters before the shortening. Parked all the metal ..cleaned up the wood. You mentioned the .410 Enfield shotguns - recently bought one from Centerfire Systems ....pretty rough. For parts I bought a Drill Rifle and combined both to make a decent shooter. Also reamed the chamber to use standard .410 rounds.
Ahh sounds pretty sweet, right now we’re going through a bit of a fund issue so getting beater sticks and making Frankensteins is out of the question. -N
Not saying I wouldn't want to own it . . . but they're not making any more of the No. 4 and I'm not sure destroying any collector value is the way to go. I have a 1955 Fazakerly arsenal rebuild (new barrel!) of a 1942 No.4 Mk 1/2 ( combat "ghost ring" rear sight or flip up forsmaller aperature "Micrtometer" adjustable ladder sight) that is one of my favorite rifles. Modern or surplus. Among WWII service rifles it, and the Finnish M39, are two that can immediately go deer, bear or moose hunting . . . once you figure out a hunting load and adjust the sights. I traded for a long "3" bolt head to minimize headspace/case stretch and a taller front sight than the original. I bought a "shitload" of the Greek HXP maybe 25 years ago and it has done better than my 401(k). As I recall 480 rounds (10: 48 round boxes) was $99.99 from Century. I bought two lots - still have about 200 unfired (it is reloadable . . . and I do).
What you have is a Navy arms "Tanker Enfield " also marketed by Gibbs Rifle. I put mine in a synthetic sporter stock and soldered a bit of brazing rod on the front sight to bring the point of impact down to match the sights. Mine is a " last ditch " model ( see Forgotten Weapons video on them)
I have an all matching number ishapore in 7.62x51 they were not re chambered .303 British. My understanding is that they had to use a more modern steel for the nato round. All around great video on the shorty no.4…..
None were labeled as B grades when purchased, from the first to last they were bought within a 2 year period starting in 2021. This does show the decline in rifle conditions as RTI’s stock of rifles goes down. They did just get a big shipment so the none B grade rifles should be in a decent shape like the first rifle just hopefully with better rifling. -N
I knew the 1891 I found in a pawnshop was a unicorn… but every video on these I see I realize just how much I lucked out I got a 1918 Terni With the later beech stock…. In great condition With a mirror bore bolt is actually really smooth And with an SMI-952 clip which is the one referenced in the warren report… Got it for $325… after tax
A unicorn indeed, we have a m91/41 with a beech stock and it’s a good bit heavier even with being 3.5 inches shorter. And a good catch for the price. -N
@@SurplusBoysChannel this is the first 1891 I’ve ever found in the wild non sporterized And I have to say I was impressed by how light it is… I’d say it’s still in the 7-8 lbs range Since an m1 garand weights around 9lbs This is still lighter and handier despite its length A local shop has a 91/41 for around 300 as well, I like it but still prefer the 1891 I also have the 87/15 vetterli There’s only about 3-4 inches length difference between it and the carcano But now I need a 70/87 vetterli And a 91TS
70/87s are oh so fantastic, I have 3 of them. One of these days we’ll do a vid on them. And for your m91 you’ll be surprised on how much of a difference there is between the beech and walnut. Walnuts are about 7.7 lbs and Beeches are like 8.6 lbs then you put that in a TS package and it’s extremely handy. -N
@SurplusBoysChannel yeah they have the lead one and the copper ones but since my calvary carbine still has very good rifling. I can't test those since they are for barrels that are a little worn out. Give'em a try and make a video out of it.
Noice, and your cavalry should still fire it without a problem. All carcano barrels were made with .256 bores at the lands and .267-.268 groove diameters. Most rifles nowadays are at around .268-.270 in the grooves
Friendly heads up; no clue why but when i load my rifles with Black powder, rather than smokeless, rifles that normally key hole just.. stop key holing. Great way to get your rifle to hit point of aim rather than having your rounds spiral everywhere.
Good tip, I reload cowboy rounds (45 colt, 44-40) and I do notice I get better accuracy and consistency with BP than the smokeless. I’ll post up a pic of the closest group I got with this rifle. -N
According to copies of period Italian manuals I have seen, you use the same sight picture as any other rifle. Using the battle sight, out to 300 meters you aim at the enemy's waist, and you should hit between his waist and shoulders. It works exactly like the 7.62x39 and the battle sight on a SKS.
Yes that sounds like correct doctrine lining up top to top on the sights when aiming at an enemy target, just isn’t the best results on paper if you’re trying to sight them in with different loads. I find that when you bury the front sight it gets you closer to the right elevation. -N
The Happy Gilmore reference made me immediately sub haha Ironic as it is, im looking for some 1891 Carcano footage buried in my own channel, in a whole lot of footage.. Fun watch! Solid sub from me, one gun channel to another.
Yeah forgot to mention that in filming and editing, hopefully they get some good ones, seems like when they are running out of stock of a rifle it’s the bottom of the barrel -N
They have B grades listed right now. Back in stock last Thursday … same day I bought my non import marked m91 from a pawn shop … with the somewhat rare and sought after JFK (SMI 952) clip (same clip as was mentioned in the warren report ) The clip alone is worth around 300… I paid 325 for the rifle and the clip….rifle has a mint bore as well as being 1918 dated
@@SurplusBoysChannel it’s sadly been sanded blonde and wiped with some sort of urethane similar to the Mitchell’s mausers For some reason guys in the 50s and 60s loved sanding the piss out of things and lacquering them …… but other than that it’s all original and 100% complete … I will be replacing the hand guard with an NOS one that will require fitting… Because of how loose this one is.. and how thing it is from being sanded…. I’d like to replace the stock. But I’d basically have to buy an entire rifle from RTI and just hope it comes with decent wood….. other than that I’m happy with it… It’s funny because I passed this rifle up 2 years ago in favor of an ishapore no1mk3… And at that same time RTI went out of stock of the ones they had….. so I was kicking myself…. And 2 years later I ask a buddy who managed a gun shop if he’s seen any m91s because there’s an m91/41 in his shop And he responds with yes and describes the rifle… is both remembering it… I called the shop it was in and out it on layaway I got the rifle 2 years after first finding it… For $100 dollars cheaper And with a $300 value clip ….. I’ll say I lucked out …. I apologize for the lengthy response…..
Good video,For ammo I suggest reloading I found hornady .264 160gr round nose work the best even though they are under size they are the same weight as the military loads. So they don’t shoot a foot high and have a tighter group
Haven’t used those ones yet, I’ve used a 123 gr .268 spitzer with an open base. Finally got accuracy out of the 1915 dated gun, within a 12 inch circle at 100 yrds, way better than the rounds making keyholes at 25 yrds. -N
oh i forgot fun fact, one of the 1st prototypes for the m1 was made by cutting off the side and rear brims of an m1917 and welding straight edge pieces and cutting them to shape. you can see the m1917 pedigree in an m1 if you hold them sideways side by side and overlay the profile of one of the other. the m1 has the exact same geometry of the curve of the front brim and crown of the m1917.
excellent! they did start production of the low dome helmets in 1951. im not sure when they made it to korea, probably pretty late. i do have pics of T1 clips being used in korea, but like T-1 chinstrap buckles during ww2, it was very late in the war when they were used. sew them chinstraps on lol. how to do a good bar tack by hand. when you start sew a line horizontally across the chinstrap where you want the bar tack to be. you can even sew a 2nd line back to the starting point if you want. then just repeatedly circle the line with vertical stitching until you get to the end. easy peazy!
Hello they lowered the shell during Korea in an attempt to make the helmet more lower profile. To my knowledge they did not make it to the Korean war. P
I just got my hands on a Romanian Tokarev for a very attractive deal. Mine is a 1953 dated model matching serial numbers. I almost bought a Chinese variant that had two slides, one for 7.62x25 and another one for 9mm. The Romanian model feels much, much better in the hand and the workmanship on the Chinese one was way more crude in materials and assembly.
Yeah that goes for every Com bloc gun made by the Chinese, never a quality piece. Then the Russian ones are too expensive, so everything in between usually is good enough. Did yours have any feeding issues? -N
@SurplusBoysChannel i don't know how much it was used, but as far as I was told, it was his after he came back from WWII then after he passed it fell to his youngest son who pawned it, but I have his dog tags
That’s a good question, I know in the vid I’m crapping on it and I do want to part with it. Yet in the future we do want to make a comparison between the Model 30 and its competitor, the Winchester model 54. So whenever I can get my hands on one either by purchase or someone lending me one then I’ll part with it. -N
Could you tell me if the bayonets are specific to the 98/22 or will other bayonets from other mausers ? I just inherited one its a Turkish 98/22 I’m looking for a bayonet
