I hate your marker dude. Felt like I was going to vomit while having a seizure listening to that. Worse than nails on a chalkboard. 😂 Great video though. I learned a lot from this.
At the end of the video when you are spinning the crank in the lathe, if you slow the video down to .25 speed, it appears the ossilation in the dial indicator is perfectly timed with the spring tensioning and relaxing. Because you don't have both ends of the crank supported and the size of the spring, it is likely applying enough spring force to the rod to cause a minor flex in the crank and potentially false readings on the dial indicator. Therefore shouldn't this procedure be performed without a spring pulling on the rod? I understand you may have secured the rod with a spring for the purposes of making the video, but it should be pointed out that it was for video purposes and no load should be applied to the rod while taking measurements. But still a great and very educational video. Thank you!
I really appreciate your detail and craftsmanship. thanks for sharing this information for those who want to better the performance of these types of motors. Keep up the great work my friend and stay safe out there.👍
I am very happy I found your channel! It's really awesome of find a video of someone who really goes into detail how to build one of these little motors to make some real power and stay together! I am looking forward to watching all of your videos. I really appreciate the time you spent on making these videos for those who need to know how to put these motors together correctly for some serious power. Keep up the awesome work DLH Performance!⚡︎👍🏁
No, bro thank you for the fishing rod. I am going to reference you on a motorized bicycle forum I am on to help others to understand . you rock big dawg! May the blessing find you tenfold.
Drilling a balance hole directly beside or inline with the crankpin is a bad idea for obvious reasons. That's why the 2 original factory drilled holes are spaced either side of the centreline of the crankpin. Better to add weight to the opposing side (ie. Drill a hole, thread it, then pour in lead)
Yes but we would like to know the durations from an experienced guy, guy. Raised 2 degrees from original what ? Sorry but it's a national secert nobody wants to reveal why? Comments from dicks? Blowdow or mm from top, more secrets, it's a porting how to after all ? Don't answer unless you need to . Thanks
Couldn't you just sandwich a round block of steel in between where the crank arm is then just lightly hydralic press fit everything true?... If that makes sense to you, idk.
Man I have got to get me one of those frames with the gas tank included!! They look pretty slick and eliminate that weird looking tank that comes in the kits. Right now I'm using a Schwinn frame and bike that has been sitting outside for ten years. I've got an engine kit coming that I think should get me moving to about 30mph, but I'll hopefully get to the point that I can build something similar to what you have going on here. I've also got two mopeds that I got from Craigslist for a song and dance an express which is two stroke and a four stroke Zuma. The zuma is pretty solid and does around 40mph, but my goal is to get everything up to around 50-55mph so I can take them to work and save the gas money. I also have a 200cc Lifan motorcycle that is brand new, and I plan on riding that thing until I can get the mopeds and bike up to snuff and then I'll rotate them. I'd certainly like to build something from scratch though like you have done here and I can go with top shelf parts from the get go. I don't really know if my Schwinn is going to handle doing 45-50mph TBH, they're not really built for that, but I'm sure the frame you have is much more capable.
